London on a budget- reporting live from Murder Mile
Oct 11th, 2008, 11:35 PM
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London on a budget- reporting live from Murder Mile
Well, not really. I'm in Archway not Hackney, but I'm on my new little Asus PC at the kitchen table looking out over all of London. The air is a bit foggy this morning but when clear and sunny like yesterday afternoon, you can see the dome of St Paul's, the Tower of London, the London Eye, and countless builder's cranes along the skyline.
It's vrbo apartment no. 52647, and I'm here for the next week. Then next Saturday I move into the Park Plaza Victoria for 1 night before heading home.
It's about quarter to eight in the morning and as early as 7 am there were a surprising number of people out and about down below on Holloway Rd. Some coming home from a night out, others buying groceries at the Sainsbury's Local across the street. Sainsbury's was open by 7 am and was open last night until 8 or 9pm.
The apartment is on the corner of Holloway and Elthorn Rd. up in N19, a short block away from the Archway tube stop. The neighborhood is diverse, a real mix of people, places, and things- bookmakers, kebab take-aways, halal chicken wings, run-down shops, and a few trendy looking restaurants, one of which ("500"
is thought of quite highly by the folks at Time Out. There are lots of normal people about and no other tourists to be seen.
The flat itself is wonderful, spacious and airy. Right now my sister is watching Scooby-Doo on the flat screen tv. I'm on the free wifi. There is a huge soaker bathtub. We had an excellent sleep on the bed which was more than big enough for us to share (and I'm almost 5'9", my sister 5'6". The kitchen has every appliance, including an oven and dishwasher. Best of all are the huge windows with the view over the city. There are no blinds or curtains, so we do have to be careful about walking around in our underpants.
The flat is a walk-up, with lots and lots of stairs, but we love it.
It's vrbo apartment no. 52647, and I'm here for the next week. Then next Saturday I move into the Park Plaza Victoria for 1 night before heading home.
It's about quarter to eight in the morning and as early as 7 am there were a surprising number of people out and about down below on Holloway Rd. Some coming home from a night out, others buying groceries at the Sainsbury's Local across the street. Sainsbury's was open by 7 am and was open last night until 8 or 9pm.
The apartment is on the corner of Holloway and Elthorn Rd. up in N19, a short block away from the Archway tube stop. The neighborhood is diverse, a real mix of people, places, and things- bookmakers, kebab take-aways, halal chicken wings, run-down shops, and a few trendy looking restaurants, one of which ("500"
is thought of quite highly by the folks at Time Out. There are lots of normal people about and no other tourists to be seen. The flat itself is wonderful, spacious and airy. Right now my sister is watching Scooby-Doo on the flat screen tv. I'm on the free wifi. There is a huge soaker bathtub. We had an excellent sleep on the bed which was more than big enough for us to share (and I'm almost 5'9", my sister 5'6"
. The kitchen has every appliance, including an oven and dishwasher. Best of all are the huge windows with the view over the city. There are no blinds or curtains, so we do have to be careful about walking around in our underpants. The flat is a walk-up, with lots and lots of stairs, but we love it.
Oct 12th, 2008, 12:34 AM
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I am so envious!!! Your descriptions bring everything to life and I hope you will be posting regularly so we can enjoy it with you!
Isn't "500" that Jamie Oliver restaurant where he employed young troubled people and gave them an opportunity to make something of their lives?
Looking forward to more..............!
Isn't "500" that Jamie Oliver restaurant where he employed young troubled people and gave them an opportunity to make something of their lives?
Looking forward to more..............!
Oct 12th, 2008, 02:15 AM
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The closest thing to murder in your part of London we've ever seen was the stunt Nell Gwynne played at Lauderdale House (just up the road from you: google them both) to get her son a dukedom.
Though no jury would convict anyone driving into the Archway roundabout from the north early in the morning of murdering the pillock who designed the road system.
PS Why is it surprising people are up in the morning? This isn't some sleepy provincial village like New York, you know. Actually, most sleepy provincial villages here are pretty busy by 7 am.
Though no jury would convict anyone driving into the Archway roundabout from the north early in the morning of murdering the pillock who designed the road system.
PS Why is it surprising people are up in the morning? This isn't some sleepy provincial village like New York, you know. Actually, most sleepy provincial villages here are pretty busy by 7 am.
Oct 12th, 2008, 09:00 AM
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Incidentally, Nell Gwynne's not your only erstwhle neighbour.
Charles Poooter, it was claimed this week, lived virtually at the end of your street. For a picture of his house (which the author claims is pretty well still standing, though even in today's market it's probably worth 2,000 times what Pooter's landlord wouod have paid for it) - and if you're shamefully ignorant of the Poters and Grossmiths - go to http://www.spectator.co.uk/the-magaz...rs-house.thtml
Charles Poooter, it was claimed this week, lived virtually at the end of your street. For a picture of his house (which the author claims is pretty well still standing, though even in today's market it's probably worth 2,000 times what Pooter's landlord wouod have paid for it) - and if you're shamefully ignorant of the Poters and Grossmiths - go to http://www.spectator.co.uk/the-magaz...rs-house.thtml
Oct 12th, 2008, 04:19 PM
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To sum up, we are quite pleased with this flat and would happily return. It's a gorgeous space that would cost more than twice the price if it was located 10 minutes south down the tube line. I'll also note that I counted the stairs this evening- there are 92. I think that well justifies eating Cadbury every night for the duration of the trip (two for 1.60 at Sainsbury's)
Oct 12th, 2008, 04:23 PM
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Hmmm, I've got a missing "ghost" post from earlier this evening. It shows up on the left when I'm posting a reply, but doesn't seem to show up on the thread otherwise. Maybe it will find it's way eventually.
Oct 12th, 2008, 04:29 PM
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I'm glad you like the apartment. I've noticed it several times when searching on vrbo. It seemed a bit out of the way, though, and I wondered how long it really takes to get to the usual tourist sites.
Oct 12th, 2008, 04:39 PM
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I won't repeat what I wrote in my ghost post, except to say that Archway is a fine area, a little shabby at worst but there are hints of gentrification and we feel perfectly safe and at home here.
Second, we didn't end up going to Sutton House after all (near Clapton Rd in Hackney, the so-called "murder mile" of my title- hey, if it bleeds it leads)
What we did do this warm and sunny day was this:
MUSEUM IN DOCKLANDS
I'd been wanting to see the docklands area, and my sister was keen on a "Jack the Ripper" exhibit at the museum. After getting dressed this morning, we decided we were both in the mood for it so we headed out on the DLR from Bank Station to West India Quay.
It's no secret that the driver's seats at the front of the train are the best
Second, we didn't end up going to Sutton House after all (near Clapton Rd in Hackney, the so-called "murder mile" of my title- hey, if it bleeds it leads)
What we did do this warm and sunny day was this:
MUSEUM IN DOCKLANDS
I'd been wanting to see the docklands area, and my sister was keen on a "Jack the Ripper" exhibit at the museum. After getting dressed this morning, we decided we were both in the mood for it so we headed out on the DLR from Bank Station to West India Quay.
It's no secret that the driver's seats at the front of the train are the best
Oct 12th, 2008, 05:02 PM
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I'm not drunk, I'm just having technical difficulties.
travelgirl- I'd say it's about 10-15 minutes extra on the tube to get to most tourist sites. By extra I mean on top of what it would take compared to travel time from places like Bloomsbury or South Ken. I don't really think of it as being far out but I live in a city and ride the subway everyday so it's normal for me to have a bit of a ride to and from places.
The flat isn't for everyone. Certainly the stairs are big caveat. Using the tube so heavily may not be for everyone. The neighborhood may not be for everyone (it's a work-a-day urban neighborhood, not twee-ed up for visitors)
I think is someone is used to urban living, or up for a bit of a city adventure, warts and all, and can manage the stairs all right, it's a great place to stay. The owner is great to work with, too.
travelgirl- I'd say it's about 10-15 minutes extra on the tube to get to most tourist sites. By extra I mean on top of what it would take compared to travel time from places like Bloomsbury or South Ken. I don't really think of it as being far out but I live in a city and ride the subway everyday so it's normal for me to have a bit of a ride to and from places.
The flat isn't for everyone. Certainly the stairs are big caveat. Using the tube so heavily may not be for everyone. The neighborhood may not be for everyone (it's a work-a-day urban neighborhood, not twee-ed up for visitors)
I think is someone is used to urban living, or up for a bit of a city adventure, warts and all, and can manage the stairs all right, it's a great place to stay. The owner is great to work with, too.
Oct 12th, 2008, 07:57 PM
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Apres_Londee - I also recently purchased an Asus EEE PC - the 900 with the idea of using it for travel. I'm glad it seems to be working well for you. Are you using it wireless or on some sort of landline connection?
Oct 13th, 2008, 11:25 AM
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Mara- I'm using a wireless connection, which is one of the amenities of the apartment I'm staying at. The Asus is really cute and looks like a little baby computer. I forgot to bring my mouse so I have to use the touchpad which I'm bad at- I keep clicking the ads on the right by mistake. Also, it can be funny typing when you're used to a keyboard of a certain size and breadth. It takes me forever to type on this thing.
But I love having easy internet access, it's so nice to be able to check the tfl for tube disruptions, or the weather forecast, read the news, look up restaurants, check email. So a worthy investment, I think.
But I love having easy internet access, it's so nice to be able to check the tfl for tube disruptions, or the weather forecast, read the news, look up restaurants, check email. So a worthy investment, I think.
Oct 13th, 2008, 12:24 PM
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MUSEUM IN DOCKLANDS
We went on Sunday morning. Sunday was brilliantly sunny and warm. We took the Northern line to Bank and changed for the DLR. I wanted to get the seats at the front of the train, but everyone knows they are the best seats, other tourists included. When we got the platform, the train was already sitting there, and all seats at the front were already taken.
We decided to wait and take the next train and try to get the driver's seats, so we sat down on the bench on the platform. Next thing we know, a "helpful" tfl employee in a florescent vest comes over and asks us where we are going. We tell him "West India Quay". He tells us to get on the train.
I thought about telling him that we were waiting so we could have a fighting chance at the driver's seats, but didn't. We climbed aboard and stood in the first car, at least. The ride was still pretty fun.
West India Quay is a pretty cool stop. The station platform is high above ground, very industrial and modern looking. There's a wonderful view over the river and the skyscrapers and the converted warehouses. It's beautiful.
For those familiar with Toronto, this area is reminiscent of the Distillery District (only better. Much better) The warehouses at West India Quay have all been converted into restaurants, except at the far end, where an old warehouse that was once used as a through station for importing slaves from Africa and then transporting them to the west indies, has been converted into the Museum at Docklands.
Admission to the museum is 5 GBP. The exhibit was an extra 2 GBP. There is a little self-serve cafe area with things like pre-packaged sandwiches and cans of pop. There's also an attached restaurant called "1802", with a full bar and outside patio.
My sister was really interested in the Jack the Ripper exhibit at the museum. I thought it might be a bit silly, but it was actually quite good. The focus of the exhibition was on what life was like in the east end at that time-dominated primarily by poverty, exploitation, and disease, although there was plenty of Jack the Ripper stuff as well- the original police reports, letters sent to the police and the papers purporting to be from the murderer, and a look at the lives of the victims.
We spent about 2 hours at the exhibit, and then had lunch at "1802". It was really quite good. The space is nicely done, the tables large and the chairs are comfortable brown leather.
You can have 2 courses for 15 GBP, or 3 courses for 18 GBP (if my memory's correct) I had the ale, leek, and mushroom pie, and my sister had a lamb burger with chips. We both had sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream for dessert. We drank tap water, which was brought to the table in a big pitcher with several slices of lemon, lime, and orange. It was a surprisingly delicious lunch. Service was automatically added to the bill, I think it was 10 or 15%.
We decided to skip the rest of the museum this time around (at the rate we were going, we would have been there all day) but we would definitely like to return someday, see the rest of the museum, and explore a little more in the area.
We went on Sunday morning. Sunday was brilliantly sunny and warm. We took the Northern line to Bank and changed for the DLR. I wanted to get the seats at the front of the train, but everyone knows they are the best seats, other tourists included. When we got the platform, the train was already sitting there, and all seats at the front were already taken.
We decided to wait and take the next train and try to get the driver's seats, so we sat down on the bench on the platform. Next thing we know, a "helpful" tfl employee in a florescent vest comes over and asks us where we are going. We tell him "West India Quay". He tells us to get on the train.
I thought about telling him that we were waiting so we could have a fighting chance at the driver's seats, but didn't. We climbed aboard and stood in the first car, at least. The ride was still pretty fun.
West India Quay is a pretty cool stop. The station platform is high above ground, very industrial and modern looking. There's a wonderful view over the river and the skyscrapers and the converted warehouses. It's beautiful.
For those familiar with Toronto, this area is reminiscent of the Distillery District (only better. Much better) The warehouses at West India Quay have all been converted into restaurants, except at the far end, where an old warehouse that was once used as a through station for importing slaves from Africa and then transporting them to the west indies, has been converted into the Museum at Docklands.
Admission to the museum is 5 GBP. The exhibit was an extra 2 GBP. There is a little self-serve cafe area with things like pre-packaged sandwiches and cans of pop. There's also an attached restaurant called "1802", with a full bar and outside patio.
My sister was really interested in the Jack the Ripper exhibit at the museum. I thought it might be a bit silly, but it was actually quite good. The focus of the exhibition was on what life was like in the east end at that time-dominated primarily by poverty, exploitation, and disease, although there was plenty of Jack the Ripper stuff as well- the original police reports, letters sent to the police and the papers purporting to be from the murderer, and a look at the lives of the victims.
We spent about 2 hours at the exhibit, and then had lunch at "1802". It was really quite good. The space is nicely done, the tables large and the chairs are comfortable brown leather.
You can have 2 courses for 15 GBP, or 3 courses for 18 GBP (if my memory's correct) I had the ale, leek, and mushroom pie, and my sister had a lamb burger with chips. We both had sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream for dessert. We drank tap water, which was brought to the table in a big pitcher with several slices of lemon, lime, and orange. It was a surprisingly delicious lunch. Service was automatically added to the bill, I think it was 10 or 15%.
We decided to skip the rest of the museum this time around (at the rate we were going, we would have been there all day) but we would definitely like to return someday, see the rest of the museum, and explore a little more in the area.
