smm_18

Hi all

Arrive in Paris round midday on Eurostar, 18 Sept. Leave on early train 24 Sept. for Switzerland.

Travelling on my own with my two sons (12 and 14); we're from Australia, so big, exciting trip for us!

We're staying in an apartment in Le Marais.

I'd like some ideas for food shopping that will be colourful, lively, different (for us) and not super exclusive/expensive. We will probably eat at the apartment most, but not all, nights.

So when we do eat out, I'm looking again for something atmospheric and at the lower end of expense range. Not really interested in 'fast food', unless of course it's a fast crepe on the go. Is it possible to sample some escargots or are these also a specialty (read expensive) for Parisians?

And just on the topic of markets, which markets (i.e. second-hand, antique, etc.) would you recommend for a browse that would please all of us?

Grateful for any suggestions.

Michael

Market: Blvd. Richard Lenoir on Sunday morning.

Leon de Bruxelles specializes in mussels. It's a chain, of which there is one on Place de la République.

jayhawkx2

Food market/2nd hand: Marche Aligre in the 12th -- recommend going Thurs-Sun. Marche des Enfants Rouge in the 3rd -- think authentic/ethnic food court, in a beautiful old covered marketplace (I had amazingly good Moroccan and Italian food -- the great thing is the 3 of you can each choose from a different vendor/fit your tastes.).
No food, but my favorite vintage market is Puce de Vanves in the 14th. You can take a tram there, for a change of pace. It's manageable in size, not overwhelming like Puce de St. Ouen.
You don't have to eat at a fancy/expensive restaurant for escargots -- just check out the menus to see if they have it.
For a good street market, in the 2nd, I'd suggest Rue Montorgueil.

clarkgriswold

Paris is bursting with Farmer's Markets...liked you've died and gone to heaven.
Start with a visit to Le Marche des Enfants Rouge, 39 rue de Bretagne

MOnoprix at 74 Rue San Antoine may be your nearest grocery.

L’as du Falafel 34 Rue de Rosiers for sandwiches
Comme Lisbon 37 Rue de Roe Sicile for breads, pastries
Chez Imogene for crepes, Rue de Jean Pierre Timbaud
Espace Gourmand Rue des Archives more breads & pastries

Here's a great place for escargots, if you don't want to spring for the 25 Euro complete dinner menu, you could share just a dozen escargots and maybe a salad:
(go at the
http://lesmauvaisgarconsparis.com/menu-in-english/

clarkgriswold

should have read....(go at the beginning of your week, because you'll surely want to go back a 2nd time).

smm_18

This is brilliant. Thanks for these suggestions.

I notice that two of you have recommended Marche des Enfants Rouge – sounds amazing.

I like your last comment, clarkgriswold!

rialtogrl

I third Marche des Enfants Rouge... and second the market at Place d'Aligre. The area around that market has some cool shops and bakeries and is very multi-cultural. Make sure to get to the inside part of the market (Marché Beauvau).

Don't eat in, take a picnic out! There are all kinds of great places for a picnic - the banks of the Seine, Place de Vosges, along the Canal St. Martin, down by the Bastille canal.. I'll be there the same time as you, and that is what I will be doing! Have a great time.

DebitNM

From a recent post I did:

One of the best things we liked about eating in Paris was that availability of SO many cafe's and bistros where you could eat well for not a lot of money. The menu's are always posted outside the restaurant often with a blackboard showing the days' specials. The plat du jour is often the way to go, as it is the best price and a very local type meal. The best deal is to do a "le menu or Formule" [like what we call prix fixe] which offers a 2 course meal [appetizer and entree OR entree and dessert] for a set price. Sometimes a glass of wine is included. An appetizer is called "entree" in French and the entree is the "plat". Another tip is not to order Cokes etc with a meal. They are one of THE most expensive things to drink. Ask for a bottle of tap water and it is free usually. If you don't speak french, at least get a list of food items so you know the what the various dishes contain.
http://french.about.com/od/vocabulary/a/menu.htm
http://french.about.com/od/vocabulary/a/restaurant.htm

For breakfasts - go to a corner Tabac. STAND at the bar, order your coffee and croissant or pain au chocolate and do like the locals. If you sit down inside, it will cost more. If you sit down outside, even more. We would buy yogurt [you will be amazed at the selection], fruit for breakfast, but always went out for a coffee each morning.

For lunches - go to a Boulangerie or Patisserie and buy some baguette sandwiches for a picnic lunch. Or just buy a baguette and then some cheese and fruit from a corner shop or produce stand. A brownie [fondant] or cookie from Patisserie will make a nice dessert. Voila! A pic-nique.

http://www.absolutemarais.com/shopping.htm

smm_18

Definitely looking forward to some picnics, rialtogrl! Can't wait. This is all very exciting.

Thanks for these great tips and links, DebitNM. My French is pretty good, though rusty (quite proud of conducting the entire apartment booking process in French!)... And I definitely don't have a complete vocab on all things gastronomical, so that's very useful. Thanks also for the stand up/sit down/no drinks at table insider info.

Is tipping expected in a restaurant?

Have printed out AbsoluteMarais - thanks!

cigalechanta

L’as du Falafel 34 Rue de Rosiers for sandwiches
sit inside, much more fun and other things besides sandwiches
I ordered a bottle of rose.

cigalechanta

clarkg..I was staying around the corner from the bad boys, took a photo of it because I liked the name. Wish I knew they served snails.

smm_18

Thanks, cigalechanta.

A photo of my two in front of les mauvais garçons is a must...

Seamus

Another enthusiastic recommendation for the Marché des Enfants Rouges at 39 rue de Bretagne - the oldest food market in Paris and one of my favorite places. The entrance can be easy to miss; it is between r. de Beauce and r. Charlot. On the back row is a stall where Alain makes incredibly delicious <<cornets>> in a galette (think crepe but whole grain buckwheat) filled with organic produce, cheese, herbs and a drizzle of honey. He also makes sandwiches, I believe, but I always get the cornet. He has no seating but you can take your eats to the nearby park (turn left on rue de Bretagne, go down about two blocks and cross the street) where there is seating and free WiFi.
Do note the hours for the market: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday: 8:30-1PM and 4PM-7:30PM
Friday, Saturday- 8h30AM-1PM and 4PM-8PM
Sunday: 8:30AM–2PM

Also second the suggestion of Leon de Bruxelles - it is indeed a chain but serves decent quality food at reasonable prices. Sunday nights they offer an all you can eat mussels special which may be a draw for your teens.

Deb is bang on about ways to keep meal costs in check. Soft drinks are very expensive. Also, when a server asks if you would like water be sure to specify that you want <<une carafe d'eau, s'il vous plait>> which will get you a pitcher of very fine Parisian tap water rather than the often pricey bottled water.

Where in the Marais is your apartment? Depending on its location, the Monoprix at 164 r. du Temple may be closer than the one on R Saint-Antoine.

smm_18

Sounds like Marche des Enfants Rouges is a must! Thanks, Seamus for details on finding the entrance and for the delectable sounding cornets. Also for the opening hours – very useful!

The all-you-can-eat mussels will be SO different for us.

The apartment is in Rue du Foin. I'm not sure yet about surrounding streets. Haven't quite narrowed in on that yet.

Some excellent tips, thanks.

Kate

My absolute favourite last time I was in Paris, and the cheapest meal I had, was at Chez Omar, a moroccan restaurant based in a traditional old bistro - it looks like the sort of place where Monet would have been tucked in a corner.

http://www.timeout.com/paris/en/restaurants/chez-omar

Avalon2

We stay on rue St Antoine, there is a gracery store right across the st from us , also a verger and a cheese shop , right bfore you get ti=o Metro St paul. ots of services a laudramat that beats the washer and dryer in apt.( they are som slow!!)For excellent inexpensive lunch and dinners Le Bouquet St Paul, on the corner of aRue St Antoine and Rue St Paul.They serve Berthillion ice cream too as a bonus

smm_18

Thanks, Kate – looks like a popular place with lots of atmosphere. Starting to think we may be eating out more than I'd planned! Hard to resist. Ah, Paree...

Thanks, Avalon2, for these suggestions!

Anyone able to help me with my tipping Q?

bendigo

I agree with Avalon's tips on rue St Antoine for shopping. Monoprix is good, but there are assorted fromagerie, charcuterie, patisseries and boulangerie up and down the street. Also an excellent and inexpensive Asian restaurant for a change, and many bistro style places on the corners.

We also grabbed a couple of great Kosher pizzas from a place just up from rue St Antoine on the street that runs directly to the front of the St Paul church.

Village St Paul has some interesting antique shops, although some of them seemed to be open by appointment only - but maybe that was because we were there in December, and the owners were spending the "off season" at home or elsewhere keeping warm.

tdk320n

Forgive me for hijacking this but i would like to ask Avalon2 if he would mind sharing the website of the apartment tnat he rents. I am planning on being in Paris MAY 11- MAY 27 and I am having trouble finding an apartment in that area
Thanks

DebitNM

[I think the tipping question is a different thread. It is a hot topic here and will derail this thread].