Italy report with 12 year olds. Part 2 - Rome and observations
Mar 1st, 2005, 05:14 PM
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Italy report with 12 year olds. Part 2 - Rome and observations
The ride was smooth and scenic and we arrived in Rome right on time, and got a taxi to the Hotel Santa Maria in Trastevere. Right off the bat, it was culture shock since we hadn’t heard cars yet in Italy. The cab driver drove in usual Roman fashion with “suggested” speed limits (speeding down narrow streets) and had trouble finding our hotel. He dropped us by the foot of the street and some gentlemen pointed us in the right direction. The Santa Maria is in a 17th century convent with regular motel style rooms built in the complex. It surrounds a lovely garden with tables (not something we’d be using in Feb.). It has a gate and an ivy covered wall, all very charming. It wasn’t as luxurious as the Pensione Accademia, however, it was spotless and warm and we were very comfortable (although my husband couldn’t stand up all the way in the shower). It was a fantastic neighborhood and the staff was very helpful, so we were very happy with our choice.
We set right off to walk around the neighborhood at Piazza Santa Maria and then crossed the Tiber to see Campo de Fiore and Piazza Navona. It was getting dark and the lights in the fountains were an impressive sight. My son got some nice photos. Back in Trastevere, we were the first in the L’Antico Moro for dinner, which seemed to be our way the entire trip. With kids it’s hard to wait until 8pm to eat dinner, particularly since we start our days early for sightseeing. Dinner was fantastic. It is evident to me at this point, that it is probably not possible to get a bad meal in Trastevere. Another dining observation is that restaurants are brightly lit, something you would generally see only at chains at home.
Eating reminded me of the commercial for Southwest Air…where you have women lying in the sun on the beach reading, and a cloud passes overhead. One sighs and says, “yesterday was so much nicer,” and they say “a bad day in Florida beats a good day almost anywhere else.” Well we figured a bad meal in Italy would beat a good meal almost anywhere else!
We were up early the next morning to join the Colloseum and Forum tour with Rome Walks. However, we got a bit lost finding the Colloseum from across the river, and never caught up with the tour group (we were about 25 minutes late). We decided to go right into the Colloseum and got the audio guides, which were fine. It was interesting to be inside and we just walked through the Forum after that. I guess we’ll have to do a tour another time. At least we got into the Colloseum before the line got long.
The kids were interested in the Time Elevator, so we thought that would be a good opportunity to take a rest. The Time Elevator sign was up, but the gate was down and it appeared to be closed. Later at the hotel they thought maybe it was closed in the low season, even though the website didn’t say that. It would have been a nice rest, but we kept moving along. On to the Trevi Fountain (coins tossed in), and then a lovely little restaurant Il Piccolo Arancia, recommended by a Fodorite. The pasta and eggplant were very good, as was mentioned on the forum.
We did some major trekking in the afternoon – to the Spanish Steps, and all around. Went to the Cat Sanctuary at Torre Argentina near Piazza Venezia. The kids really enjoyed that. We estimated that we must have walked several miles that day and we were really tired that evening. My daughter had a blister and soaked her feet in the bidet.
The next morning we got up early for a Vatican tour with Roman Promenades, which is run out of our hotel. The guide was Stefano and it was pleasant to be with a small and international group. Stefano grabbed an espresso before we set out. He clearly was not a morning person either. Our group was able to bypass a very long line and the couple from London said that they weren’t even able to get in the previous day due to the line. It’s a pretty intense experience, but Stefano and an assistant got us right in. Although he was very knowledgeable about art history, this was the least interesting activity for the kids. His talk was full of detail, which seemed to go over their heads (such as religious references), and they probably missed some of it because of his accent. He never really engaged them in the talk. Of course it is hard for anyone to fully comprehend and appreciate the art treasures of the Vatican during a short visit. We all enjoyed the Sistine Chapel and the tapestries. Although Roman Promenades offered an afternoon tour of the Forum, everyone was very cold and we opted for lunch and a simple tour of the Torre Argentina. The guide works with the cats, and was very opinionated, but again, knowledgeable (and kind of funny, although I’m not sure she meant to be). We saw the spot were Julius Caesar was murdered.
Funny thing we learned was those tiny, tiny cars are actually considered scooters, and guess what…you don’t need a license and only have to be 14 to have one. How safe that made me feel, particularly when crossing a street becomes such a random leap of faith!
It was cold and raw and our hotel was most welcoming. We had drinks at the hotel bar and the kids took advantage of the free internet service to check their e-mail, while we relaxed.
For our last day in Rome, I had signed up for a tour of Ostia Antica, founded in the 4th century B.C. (okay, I got a little tour happy this trip!) with All About Rome Walks, but the guide hadn’t called to confirm. I wasn’t sure I’d see her, but at this point, we were enjoying the Italian mentality which is if she shows, she shows. We were ready anyway. Five minutes before 9, our guide, Olivia Ercoli showed up with her driver in a minivan to take us to Ostia. We had originally planned a daytrip to Pompeii, but since our vacation was so short, we decided to see the ruins closer to Rome. It was a beautiful and sunny day and we chatted in the car ride over. Olivia has a background in art history and has been a guide for 10 years. She runs programs for college students as well as children’s programs. In other words, she is well experienced. She also was very pleasant and engaging with the children and we thoroughly enjoyed our time with her.
Ostia is about a 45 minute drive (door to door) and it was immediately relaxing to be in such a bucolic place, full of grass and trees, which are in short supply in the center of Rome. The umbrella pines among the excavations were fragrant and the air felt very fresh. Above all, it was really quiet. Although you could easily tour this on your own (there are plaques in Italian and English), the kids particularly enjoyed how she’d sort of act out conversations the people may have had in the time that they lived there. Not only did we enjoy the physical scenery, but she painted a vivid picture of what life may have been like and answered many questions.
I did ask her about the trees, because they are so different from home. The umbrella pines and cypress trees are everywhere, although there were very few trees when this was an actual working city. The light was rich and saturated and we found many photo ops. It’s funny that Olivia noticed the nice lighting and said that meant rain would be coming off the coast. Sure enough, we just had time to get back to the van before it started pouring. So much for our beautiful day!
The driver (who may have been her husband, although we weren’t introduced) was nice enough to show us the square colloseum on the trip home and even stopped off so we could take a picture (as a joke for the album). It was built by Mussolini and is so surreal, it’s been used in Fellini films, among others.
We were dropped off in Trastevere at a restaurant she recommended, Da Lucia. (Our last lunch…) It’s probably redundant to mention that it was also excellent. We got soaked getting back and went to the hotel (up the street) to warm up and dry off. Fortunately the rain stopped, allowing us a few hours of daylight to explore Trastevere on our last night in Rome. (Sad face). Everything felt sentimental. We bought the kids their last gelato. We walked up a favorite street for the last time. We stopped in at the church of Santa Maria. Next it was time to climb to the top…what a climb (and excellent way to burn off our last meals). The top had a great view and it was getting dark. Normally I get a bit nervous in city parks at dusk, but plenty of people were out walking and it felt safe. We headed down to contemplate our final dinner in Rome. We consulted the concierge at the hotel and he recommended da Otello, just around the corner of the hotel. He was friends with the owner and said to say he sent us.
We were given champagne when we sat down…what a special way to toast our last night of our Italian vacation. How thoughtful of them. (I then noticed that it appeared that everyone was given champagne, but we didn’t let that cheapen our toast!) The food seemed heavier and more generous than what we had been used to, but we enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. The place filled up quickly and just came alive with a buzz of activity. I was surprised to see an accordion player come around. It had just occurred to me that we hadn’t seen one on our entire trip. He then went around with a hat, and I was surprised that most people (including my husband) gave him some change.
In Italian tradition, we were not given the check, but had to ask for it, even though people were lined up to get in. The place was hopping, but it was time to transition into packing mode back at the hotel.
We had a 7:05am flight out of Rome. I asked for a taxi to come at 4:45am, and had a panic about being confused between da Vinci airport and Fiumicino airport (I stupidly didn’t realize that was the same thing). We confirmed this and waited for the taxi. We waited some more. Finally at 5:15 a taxi showed up, but my husband had gone up the street in case the cab was lost. I was able to flag him down (without waking up the neighborhood). Another taxi showed up and very fast words were exchanged in Italian and then we were asked to take the second taxi. I’m not really sure what happened, but I’m guessing the first one misunderstood or was given the wrong time. The taxi drove at 175 km (109 miles per hour) to get us to the airport. My husband was in the front seat, and I couldn’t even think about his knuckles.
It was nice to have a completely uneventful trip home and we even beat the next snowstorm.
Rome observations:
Restaurants:
Bright lighting in most places: the kind of lighting you’d expect to see at chains here.
You have to ask for the check…not because service is bad, but so you can enjoy your meal without rushing.
There is a cover charge on your bill, but tip is included.
You don’t have to ask for bread, but bread will come without butter or oil. The bread is so good, that you don’t need butter or oil.
House wine is always good.
Sprite costs more than wine (by volume).
Personal advice: only one dessert a day.
Don’t even think about dinner before 7:30. 8:15 is more like it.
Since we were with kids, we chose sanity over image and ate at 7:30.
Streets:
If there isn’t a crosswalk, cross when the locals do.
Graffiti:
It’s just everywhere.
Bathrooms:
They’re not.
Dog do:
Also everywhere.
Good way to clean it off:
Where the water comes out on the bottom of those drinking fountains.
Drinking water:
Everywhere from beautiful fountains.
You can either drink by putting your face under it (like me), or cover up the bottom to create a little drinking spout. If you do this, try not to soak the person that you’re with (like my husband did).
Scarves:
How do those Italians tie scarves in such a stylish way?
My photos are back and I’m organizing an album….
Favorite photos from Rome: Mirror reflecting empty rainy café in Trastevere. It pretty much summed up the feel of such a bustling place in the rain.
Favorite photo in Venice: The rear view of a couple in a gondola who I suspect had just gotten engaged. (Well, he had been holding a small black box, and she was crying, so I like to think the romantic angle…when they passed under the bridge I was standing on, I got the photo from behind.).
Now, back to my photos…tomorrow I have to do real work!
We set right off to walk around the neighborhood at Piazza Santa Maria and then crossed the Tiber to see Campo de Fiore and Piazza Navona. It was getting dark and the lights in the fountains were an impressive sight. My son got some nice photos. Back in Trastevere, we were the first in the L’Antico Moro for dinner, which seemed to be our way the entire trip. With kids it’s hard to wait until 8pm to eat dinner, particularly since we start our days early for sightseeing. Dinner was fantastic. It is evident to me at this point, that it is probably not possible to get a bad meal in Trastevere. Another dining observation is that restaurants are brightly lit, something you would generally see only at chains at home.
Eating reminded me of the commercial for Southwest Air…where you have women lying in the sun on the beach reading, and a cloud passes overhead. One sighs and says, “yesterday was so much nicer,” and they say “a bad day in Florida beats a good day almost anywhere else.” Well we figured a bad meal in Italy would beat a good meal almost anywhere else!
We were up early the next morning to join the Colloseum and Forum tour with Rome Walks. However, we got a bit lost finding the Colloseum from across the river, and never caught up with the tour group (we were about 25 minutes late). We decided to go right into the Colloseum and got the audio guides, which were fine. It was interesting to be inside and we just walked through the Forum after that. I guess we’ll have to do a tour another time. At least we got into the Colloseum before the line got long.
The kids were interested in the Time Elevator, so we thought that would be a good opportunity to take a rest. The Time Elevator sign was up, but the gate was down and it appeared to be closed. Later at the hotel they thought maybe it was closed in the low season, even though the website didn’t say that. It would have been a nice rest, but we kept moving along. On to the Trevi Fountain (coins tossed in), and then a lovely little restaurant Il Piccolo Arancia, recommended by a Fodorite. The pasta and eggplant were very good, as was mentioned on the forum.
We did some major trekking in the afternoon – to the Spanish Steps, and all around. Went to the Cat Sanctuary at Torre Argentina near Piazza Venezia. The kids really enjoyed that. We estimated that we must have walked several miles that day and we were really tired that evening. My daughter had a blister and soaked her feet in the bidet.
The next morning we got up early for a Vatican tour with Roman Promenades, which is run out of our hotel. The guide was Stefano and it was pleasant to be with a small and international group. Stefano grabbed an espresso before we set out. He clearly was not a morning person either. Our group was able to bypass a very long line and the couple from London said that they weren’t even able to get in the previous day due to the line. It’s a pretty intense experience, but Stefano and an assistant got us right in. Although he was very knowledgeable about art history, this was the least interesting activity for the kids. His talk was full of detail, which seemed to go over their heads (such as religious references), and they probably missed some of it because of his accent. He never really engaged them in the talk. Of course it is hard for anyone to fully comprehend and appreciate the art treasures of the Vatican during a short visit. We all enjoyed the Sistine Chapel and the tapestries. Although Roman Promenades offered an afternoon tour of the Forum, everyone was very cold and we opted for lunch and a simple tour of the Torre Argentina. The guide works with the cats, and was very opinionated, but again, knowledgeable (and kind of funny, although I’m not sure she meant to be). We saw the spot were Julius Caesar was murdered.
Funny thing we learned was those tiny, tiny cars are actually considered scooters, and guess what…you don’t need a license and only have to be 14 to have one. How safe that made me feel, particularly when crossing a street becomes such a random leap of faith!
It was cold and raw and our hotel was most welcoming. We had drinks at the hotel bar and the kids took advantage of the free internet service to check their e-mail, while we relaxed.
For our last day in Rome, I had signed up for a tour of Ostia Antica, founded in the 4th century B.C. (okay, I got a little tour happy this trip!) with All About Rome Walks, but the guide hadn’t called to confirm. I wasn’t sure I’d see her, but at this point, we were enjoying the Italian mentality which is if she shows, she shows. We were ready anyway. Five minutes before 9, our guide, Olivia Ercoli showed up with her driver in a minivan to take us to Ostia. We had originally planned a daytrip to Pompeii, but since our vacation was so short, we decided to see the ruins closer to Rome. It was a beautiful and sunny day and we chatted in the car ride over. Olivia has a background in art history and has been a guide for 10 years. She runs programs for college students as well as children’s programs. In other words, she is well experienced. She also was very pleasant and engaging with the children and we thoroughly enjoyed our time with her.
Ostia is about a 45 minute drive (door to door) and it was immediately relaxing to be in such a bucolic place, full of grass and trees, which are in short supply in the center of Rome. The umbrella pines among the excavations were fragrant and the air felt very fresh. Above all, it was really quiet. Although you could easily tour this on your own (there are plaques in Italian and English), the kids particularly enjoyed how she’d sort of act out conversations the people may have had in the time that they lived there. Not only did we enjoy the physical scenery, but she painted a vivid picture of what life may have been like and answered many questions.
I did ask her about the trees, because they are so different from home. The umbrella pines and cypress trees are everywhere, although there were very few trees when this was an actual working city. The light was rich and saturated and we found many photo ops. It’s funny that Olivia noticed the nice lighting and said that meant rain would be coming off the coast. Sure enough, we just had time to get back to the van before it started pouring. So much for our beautiful day!
The driver (who may have been her husband, although we weren’t introduced) was nice enough to show us the square colloseum on the trip home and even stopped off so we could take a picture (as a joke for the album). It was built by Mussolini and is so surreal, it’s been used in Fellini films, among others.
We were dropped off in Trastevere at a restaurant she recommended, Da Lucia. (Our last lunch…) It’s probably redundant to mention that it was also excellent. We got soaked getting back and went to the hotel (up the street) to warm up and dry off. Fortunately the rain stopped, allowing us a few hours of daylight to explore Trastevere on our last night in Rome. (Sad face). Everything felt sentimental. We bought the kids their last gelato. We walked up a favorite street for the last time. We stopped in at the church of Santa Maria. Next it was time to climb to the top…what a climb (and excellent way to burn off our last meals). The top had a great view and it was getting dark. Normally I get a bit nervous in city parks at dusk, but plenty of people were out walking and it felt safe. We headed down to contemplate our final dinner in Rome. We consulted the concierge at the hotel and he recommended da Otello, just around the corner of the hotel. He was friends with the owner and said to say he sent us.
We were given champagne when we sat down…what a special way to toast our last night of our Italian vacation. How thoughtful of them. (I then noticed that it appeared that everyone was given champagne, but we didn’t let that cheapen our toast!) The food seemed heavier and more generous than what we had been used to, but we enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. The place filled up quickly and just came alive with a buzz of activity. I was surprised to see an accordion player come around. It had just occurred to me that we hadn’t seen one on our entire trip. He then went around with a hat, and I was surprised that most people (including my husband) gave him some change.
In Italian tradition, we were not given the check, but had to ask for it, even though people were lined up to get in. The place was hopping, but it was time to transition into packing mode back at the hotel.
We had a 7:05am flight out of Rome. I asked for a taxi to come at 4:45am, and had a panic about being confused between da Vinci airport and Fiumicino airport (I stupidly didn’t realize that was the same thing). We confirmed this and waited for the taxi. We waited some more. Finally at 5:15 a taxi showed up, but my husband had gone up the street in case the cab was lost. I was able to flag him down (without waking up the neighborhood). Another taxi showed up and very fast words were exchanged in Italian and then we were asked to take the second taxi. I’m not really sure what happened, but I’m guessing the first one misunderstood or was given the wrong time. The taxi drove at 175 km (109 miles per hour) to get us to the airport. My husband was in the front seat, and I couldn’t even think about his knuckles.
It was nice to have a completely uneventful trip home and we even beat the next snowstorm.
Rome observations:
Restaurants:
Bright lighting in most places: the kind of lighting you’d expect to see at chains here.
You have to ask for the check…not because service is bad, but so you can enjoy your meal without rushing.
There is a cover charge on your bill, but tip is included.
You don’t have to ask for bread, but bread will come without butter or oil. The bread is so good, that you don’t need butter or oil.
House wine is always good.
Sprite costs more than wine (by volume).
Personal advice: only one dessert a day.
Don’t even think about dinner before 7:30. 8:15 is more like it.
Since we were with kids, we chose sanity over image and ate at 7:30.
Streets:
If there isn’t a crosswalk, cross when the locals do.
Graffiti:
It’s just everywhere.
Bathrooms:
They’re not.
Dog do:
Also everywhere.
Good way to clean it off:
Where the water comes out on the bottom of those drinking fountains.
Drinking water:
Everywhere from beautiful fountains.
You can either drink by putting your face under it (like me), or cover up the bottom to create a little drinking spout. If you do this, try not to soak the person that you’re with (like my husband did).
Scarves:
How do those Italians tie scarves in such a stylish way?
My photos are back and I’m organizing an album….
Favorite photos from Rome: Mirror reflecting empty rainy café in Trastevere. It pretty much summed up the feel of such a bustling place in the rain.
Favorite photo in Venice: The rear view of a couple in a gondola who I suspect had just gotten engaged. (Well, he had been holding a small black box, and she was crying, so I like to think the romantic angle…when they passed under the bridge I was standing on, I got the photo from behind.).
Now, back to my photos…tomorrow I have to do real work!
Mar 2nd, 2005, 07:05 AM
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Nikki, I remember well from living in France and Italy that Europeans are masters of portion control. (Of course it's easier to control portions when they get this delicious stuff every day, and I get it like every 25 years!) 
There is actually a bit of leeway for us though, since most tourists do a ton of walking.
Also consider this: 2 half desserts equals one dessert. My husband and I shared whenever possible to double what we could try!
There is actually a bit of leeway for us though, since most tourists do a ton of walking.
Also consider this: 2 half desserts equals one dessert. My husband and I shared whenever possible to double what we could try!
Mar 2nd, 2005, 08:00 AM
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carolv,
Loved the report. I was especially glad to see that you liked the Hotel Santa maria and the trastevere area. We leave next thursday for rome and are staying there for 5 days before flying to Paris. I am already dreaming of the food, art, and shopping!
Loved the report. I was especially glad to see that you liked the Hotel Santa maria and the trastevere area. We leave next thursday for rome and are staying there for 5 days before flying to Paris. I am already dreaming of the food, art, and shopping!
Mar 2nd, 2005, 08:20 AM
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Glad you enjoyed the report. akm_tm, have a great time in Rome. Check the weather before you go because they kept saying that it was unseasonably cold, and I was glad to have thrown a wool sweater in at the last minute. I just posted a Santa Maria review on Trip Advisor if you're interested. I think you'll really enjoy the location.
Mar 2nd, 2005, 08:22 AM
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Wonderful trip and report, Carolv! We did many of the same things in November, and the cold weather and occasional rain did not dampen our spirits, etiher. Ostia was also a favorite part of our trip, and I'm glad you got there.
Mar 2nd, 2005, 01:38 PM
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carolv, another beautiful report and how I "walked" through it with you!
The last day, no matter where one is in Italy is always IMHO bittersweet. I have never had to leave Italy from Rome, I think that if I did they would be pulling and dragging me onto the airplane, LOL.
Thanks again for sharing your journey.
The last day, no matter where one is in Italy is always IMHO bittersweet. I have never had to leave Italy from Rome, I think that if I did they would be pulling and dragging me onto the airplane, LOL.
Thanks again for sharing your journey.
Mar 2nd, 2005, 03:26 PM
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Thanks for your feedback...I'm happy to help bring back memories of such a special place. Just writing it helped keep it alive! I made al dente pasta last night with homeade sauce. This morning, cappucino.
SeaUrchin, I think Venice and the gondola ride was a big hit for both kids. (I put that in a separate report). In Rome, my son's favorite was the colloseum and my daughter's favorite was visiting Ostia. We were all wowed by the fountains. Gorgeous!
SeaUrchin, I think Venice and the gondola ride was a big hit for both kids. (I put that in a separate report). In Rome, my son's favorite was the colloseum and my daughter's favorite was visiting Ostia. We were all wowed by the fountains. Gorgeous!
Mar 3rd, 2005, 07:25 AM
#12
Hi Carol - I just returned from two months in Trastevere (staying in an apartment near Piazza Trilussa) - probably walked by you a few times as we were checking out the Hotel Santa Maria for friends (it was full so they stayed at the BnB nearby - Villa Fonte).
Great Trip report - I'm missing Trastevere a lot!
Following are instructions from Slow Travelers site on how to tie the "Roman Scarf":
1. Take one long rectangular scarf and fold in half so the length is half what it was to start.
2. Wrap this half scarf around your neck so both ends hang down in front.
3. In front put the two loose ends through the loop of the folded end.
4. Tighten up to your neck.
This produces a very neat looking scarf that does not have long ends that blow in the wind and has two layers at the neck to keep you warm.
Great Trip report - I'm missing Trastevere a lot!
Following are instructions from Slow Travelers site on how to tie the "Roman Scarf":
1. Take one long rectangular scarf and fold in half so the length is half what it was to start.
2. Wrap this half scarf around your neck so both ends hang down in front.
3. In front put the two loose ends through the loop of the folded end.
4. Tighten up to your neck.
This produces a very neat looking scarf that does not have long ends that blow in the wind and has two layers at the neck to keep you warm.
Mar 3rd, 2005, 07:55 AM
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Elizabeth,
I just saw that method of tying scarves in Paris last month. That's how I've started doing it at home, too!
Thanks for the great report, carol. We're staying at Villa Fonte in June so I'm glad to hear you enjoyed Trastevere.
I just saw that method of tying scarves in Paris last month. That's how I've started doing it at home, too!
Thanks for the great report, carol. We're staying at Villa Fonte in June so I'm glad to hear you enjoyed Trastevere.
Mar 3rd, 2005, 02:57 PM
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Elizabeth_S, thanks for the scarf tip. We were trying to crack the code on the streets (along with trying to crack the code on that fabulous cuisine...)
It must have been great to be in Trastevere for two months! It's a tough place to leave.
Jocelyn_P, you are in for a treat (and better weather, for sure)!
It must have been great to be in Trastevere for two months! It's a tough place to leave.
Jocelyn_P, you are in for a treat (and better weather, for sure)!
Mar 4th, 2005, 12:01 PM
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I am all thumbs, Elizabeth S. Where is the loop? When did you make that? If you 1. put the scarf around your neck so that the midpoint is at the front of your neck with the two ends hanging down your back, then 2. bring each end around the back of your neck to hang in front, do you then just stuff the ends in behind the front length of scarf from step 1.? I always have to pin the ends in somehow, as my scarfs (esp. silk ones) just do not stay put. If I have been doing this incorrectly, and you are stuffing the ends in somewhere else that doesn't require a pin, please reply!
Mar 4th, 2005, 12:23 PM
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Hi kswl,
With the method I think Elizabeth's talking about, you fold the scarf in half before you put it around your neck, making a loop at one end. Hang the ends down your front, then pull the two loose ends through the loop. It makes a sort of noose (but don't tell anyone you see while you're wearing it that way!). It never comes "undone" and needs very little adjustment throughout the day. I just wore one like that today and got lots of compliments.
With the method I think Elizabeth's talking about, you fold the scarf in half before you put it around your neck, making a loop at one end. Hang the ends down your front, then pull the two loose ends through the loop. It makes a sort of noose (but don't tell anyone you see while you're wearing it that way!). It never comes "undone" and needs very little adjustment throughout the day. I just wore one like that today and got lots of compliments.
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