italian riviera
Jan 4th, 2012, 04:58 AM
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italian riviera
I am flying into Genoa on May 7th, I have only four nights and would like to visit Genoa, Rapallo, and Cinque Terre. Do I have enough time to see all the places mentioned and if so how many nights/days should I allow i each place? From Cinque Terre I need to take a train into Florence. Please advise on hotels, etc. Thanks.
Jan 4th, 2012, 05:19 AM
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Hi jaxgirl5858 and welcome!
Hub (DH) and I visited Genoa from Menton, France and we visited Cinque Terre from Pisa. Day trips both and, as you can see, from different directions. SO, I think you could make one place a base and see all three of the places you mention.
Are you leaving from Genoa also? That could affect how far from Genoa to make your base and be able to return to the airport without losing too much sleep. I will bow to the expertise of other Fodorites who know this area better than I for specific suggestions.
Also, since you are new, please note the "Search the Forums" above. You can search for specific towns and you'll find trip reports (TRs) from others about them.
Hub (DH) and I visited Genoa from Menton, France and we visited Cinque Terre from Pisa. Day trips both and, as you can see, from different directions. SO, I think you could make one place a base and see all three of the places you mention.
Are you leaving from Genoa also? That could affect how far from Genoa to make your base and be able to return to the airport without losing too much sleep. I will bow to the expertise of other Fodorites who know this area better than I for specific suggestions.
Also, since you are new, please note the "Search the Forums" above. You can search for specific towns and you'll find trip reports (TRs) from others about them.
Jan 4th, 2012, 05:40 AM
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Absolutely, doable to see places you've mentioned. Can't suggest hotels as when I last visited Ligurian region, stayed w/ friend who was living in La Spezia.
A thread that may be of help is ..... http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ke-my-base.cfm
And 'Zeppole' a frequent poster & Italia resident may offer up ideas re: query. Do check out Trenitalia website for routing to travel onward to Florence -- www.trenitalia.com
A thread that may be of help is ..... http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ke-my-base.cfm
And 'Zeppole' a frequent poster & Italia resident may offer up ideas re: query. Do check out Trenitalia website for routing to travel onward to Florence -- www.trenitalia.com
Jan 4th, 2012, 09:20 AM
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Sorry, new to this, forgot to mention that I will be flying out of Florence. Therefore, I could make Rapallo or Cinque Terre home base. Any suggestions? Thank you for all your responses.
Jan 4th, 2012, 10:07 AM
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hi jaxgirl5858,
I you want a "base", going to Rapallo directly from your arrival in Genoa would make sense, and from there you could easily use the trains to tour Genova and le Cinque Terre.
If you are averse to a rolling road trip, you could stay in Genoa, move on down to Rapallo, and then on to le Cinque Terre, thus making continuous progress south in the direction of Florence. Where you spent two nights instead of one should be determined by when you arrive and what are your strongest interests (art or hiking?)
In May, I'd probably go for option 1, because if you get rain, you can always fill in with doing something else from a base in Rapallo. Top of the list for a rainy afternoon is a visit to Chiavari, 5 minutes from Rapallo. Or you can head to one of the many quite good museums in Nervi (25 minutes from Rapallo in the direction of Genova) or in Genova itself. Even the fine art museum in La Spezia is not out of reach from a base in Rapallo.
Sorry I can't recommend a Rapallo hotel because I've never stayed in one. Check out Tripadvisor and Venere for reviews and pay special attention to noise and hill issues. Some parts of Rapallo are pedestrianized and therefore quiet, and they are generally between the train station and the sea. Other areas can either get considerable traffic, or require an uphill walk from the train station, or a bus ride, which would limit your freedom for day trips.
I you want a "base", going to Rapallo directly from your arrival in Genoa would make sense, and from there you could easily use the trains to tour Genova and le Cinque Terre.
If you are averse to a rolling road trip, you could stay in Genoa, move on down to Rapallo, and then on to le Cinque Terre, thus making continuous progress south in the direction of Florence. Where you spent two nights instead of one should be determined by when you arrive and what are your strongest interests (art or hiking?)
In May, I'd probably go for option 1, because if you get rain, you can always fill in with doing something else from a base in Rapallo. Top of the list for a rainy afternoon is a visit to Chiavari, 5 minutes from Rapallo. Or you can head to one of the many quite good museums in Nervi (25 minutes from Rapallo in the direction of Genova) or in Genova itself. Even the fine art museum in La Spezia is not out of reach from a base in Rapallo.
Sorry I can't recommend a Rapallo hotel because I've never stayed in one. Check out Tripadvisor and Venere for reviews and pay special attention to noise and hill issues. Some parts of Rapallo are pedestrianized and therefore quiet, and they are generally between the train station and the sea. Other areas can either get considerable traffic, or require an uphill walk from the train station, or a bus ride, which would limit your freedom for day trips.
Jan 5th, 2012, 03:10 PM
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THank you for all the suggestions. One more question. I am going to be there for just 4 nights then on to Florence, is worth it for me to see Genova, and if so, what are the places you recommend?
Jan 6th, 2012, 02:02 AM
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Typically,the person who gets the most out of seeing Genova is the person with a large interest in Mediterranean history, and the history of Italy, or someone with a special interest in all things nautical. There is also in the center of town a row of Italian palaces that are architectural marvels with ornate interiors and important artworks. Another fascination for some visitors is that Genova has the largest remaining medieval center in all of Europe, with its streetscape unmodernized. People sometimes talk about going to Venice and say "if you half-close your eyes, you can begin to imagine what it was like to live there hundreds of years ago." In Genova, you don't have to half-close your eyes. The narrow dark alleys, the street life, the smells, are medieval! It's a bit spooky, sometimes even sordid, there are big contrasts of wealth and poverty, lot of immigrants, shoppers, cruise shippers, streetwalkers and sailors. It's one of Europe's most important industrial ports.
For people coming to the Riviera to relax in the shade of the bougainvillea, gaze at the blues of the sea and sky, smell the olive leaves, sit the on the terrace of a pastel villa or hike the beautiful cliffs, Genova is just a confusing mess.
Fun things
For people coming to the Riviera to relax in the shade of the bougainvillea, gaze at the blues of the sea and sky, smell the olive leaves, sit the on the terrace of a pastel villa or hike the beautiful cliffs, Genova is just a confusing mess.
Fun things
Jan 6th, 2012, 02:13 AM
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Sorry, I accidentally hit the send button to soon:
Fun things to do in Genova are to head to Brignole station and walk to the covered food market (Mercato Orientale, closed during lunch hours and Sundays). Then head up to the piazza Ferrari, where you will also find the Palazzo Ducale. Inside, you can go up to the prison tower for a fascinating view of the medieval quarter and the modern port. Head down to the port, but stop by the Cathedral of San Lorenzo and say hi to the lions. Go inside and look at the unexploded British bomb inside the church, a leftover from WW2 that was intended to destroy central Genova but didn't.
Go down and take a look at the touristy but historic port, from which so many ships headed out to the Crusades in the 9th century. Skip the acquairum. Make your way over to the via Garibaldi and see the great palaces of Genova. The most interesting one to pay to go inside in the Palazzo Rosso. Otherwise, go into as many foyers as you can for free.
Genova has a lot of quirky museums (a jazz museum, a Japanese art museum, a shipbuilding museum) so look at a guidebook to see if any match your interests. Read up too about Genova's freakishly large and decorated cemetary, Staglione, and decide if you want to make all the effort to get there.
Many people visit the area without setting foot in Genova and don't feel they've missed anything. Others enjoy the experience of being in an Italian city where modern mass tourism has had only a very slight impact.
Fun things to do in Genova are to head to Brignole station and walk to the covered food market (Mercato Orientale, closed during lunch hours and Sundays). Then head up to the piazza Ferrari, where you will also find the Palazzo Ducale. Inside, you can go up to the prison tower for a fascinating view of the medieval quarter and the modern port. Head down to the port, but stop by the Cathedral of San Lorenzo and say hi to the lions. Go inside and look at the unexploded British bomb inside the church, a leftover from WW2 that was intended to destroy central Genova but didn't.
Go down and take a look at the touristy but historic port, from which so many ships headed out to the Crusades in the 9th century. Skip the acquairum. Make your way over to the via Garibaldi and see the great palaces of Genova. The most interesting one to pay to go inside in the Palazzo Rosso. Otherwise, go into as many foyers as you can for free.
Genova has a lot of quirky museums (a jazz museum, a Japanese art museum, a shipbuilding museum) so look at a guidebook to see if any match your interests. Read up too about Genova's freakishly large and decorated cemetary, Staglione, and decide if you want to make all the effort to get there.
Many people visit the area without setting foot in Genova and don't feel they've missed anything. Others enjoy the experience of being in an Italian city where modern mass tourism has had only a very slight impact.
Jan 6th, 2012, 06:28 AM
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I don't know if this article, published just today, is behind the Wall Street Journal's paywall, but I hope you can read it. The article is about the beautiful and unusual wooden chairs that are handcrafted in Chiavari, next door to Rapallo.
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB1000...LE_Video_Third
If you like craft, there is also an important lace museum in Rapallo, and a store that still sells handmade pillow lace, as it has for decades, in the piazza Cavour. The store is called Gandolfo.
In between Rapallo and Chiavari is the town of Zoagli, they weave silk, brocade and velvet, and the town has an exceptionally beautiful seaside trail. Unfortunately, it has somewhat irregular train service (and the train station is not easy to get to), plus fewer well-reviewed hotels, so it is hard to recommend staying there. But here is a link to information about Zoagli's weaving traditions.
http://www.hotelzoagli.it/e/zoagli.htm
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB1000...LE_Video_Third
If you like craft, there is also an important lace museum in Rapallo, and a store that still sells handmade pillow lace, as it has for decades, in the piazza Cavour. The store is called Gandolfo.
In between Rapallo and Chiavari is the town of Zoagli, they weave silk, brocade and velvet, and the town has an exceptionally beautiful seaside trail. Unfortunately, it has somewhat irregular train service (and the train station is not easy to get to), plus fewer well-reviewed hotels, so it is hard to recommend staying there. But here is a link to information about Zoagli's weaving traditions.
http://www.hotelzoagli.it/e/zoagli.htm
Jan 6th, 2012, 07:27 AM
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Zeppole, you are amazing. Your suggestions are priceless. THank you so much. After your recommendations, I think we will make Rapallo our base then take the train from there to Florence to meet up with our friends that have the villa in Tuscany. Villa Tabernaccia. Again, thanks a million. Anything else you can think of that would be helpful please let me know.
Jan 6th, 2012, 08:17 AM
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My daughter and I based ourselves in Rapallo several years ago per Zeppole's recommendations and LOVED it!!!We took the train to Genoa for the day;did the Cinque Terre towns via train and then back to Pisa at the end of our trip. The town is easy walking;beautiful waterfront(with a cheap ferry to Portofino for the day);great stores for shopping,etc. There is a great market on the waterfront that is also fun to check out.We loved it because it wasn't so touristy and felt like a regular town with the locals.
One of our favorite places for great seafood was right on the water overlooking the little castle in the water-reasonable and very scenic.Cannot think of the name but something like restaurant Lungamare? Have fun!
One of our favorite places for great seafood was right on the water overlooking the little castle in the water-reasonable and very scenic.Cannot think of the name but something like restaurant Lungamare? Have fun!
Jan 6th, 2012, 10:20 AM
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Thank you for your continuing recommendations, I will take them all and hope to see the places mentioned. I am thinking of making reservations at Hotel Miramare in Rapallo. All the suggestions are making me more excited about the trip. Still a little nervous about arriving in Genoa, getting train, etc. I speak fluent spanish and english, but little italian. If any other suggestion on transportation, let me know. Thanks again.
Jan 7th, 2012, 09:03 AM
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I'm glad to hear dutyfree had such a nice time, which is easy to do in this part of the world, it's just a very cheerful and beautiful place. Rapallo is endearing, and very Riviera in character. Cruise ships come and go, but the cruise shippers mainly march straight to Portofino, and breezy Rapallo has a life all its own.
I don't think you will have too much trouble negotiating getting there. If you want to drop between 50 and 100 euros, you can take a taxi. This 2010 thread makes interesting reading:
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...n_Riviera.html
If you'd rather save your euros, it will cost you about 6 euros to use the airport shuttle (Volabus) to go to either of Genova's train stations. For you, Brignole station would be optimal, and it is the second and last stop that the Volabus makes. Before you leave home, look at a Trenitalia train schedule and write down the NUMBERS of the trains that leave Brignole for Rapallo around the time you expect to be there. You can buy a ticket at the station, from the ticket sellers behind the windows or from ticket machines that have an English-language option. There are lit-up big boards where you can see the track where your train is leaving. You can identify your train for Rapallo by its NUMBER.
Do NOT board an Inter-City train (IC train) unless you have bought the more expensive IC ticket. The Regional trains (which take a little longer) are marked by "R" on the departure board.
By the way, it is very normal to see Italians double-checking with other Italians whether the train they are about to board is the one they want. You can ask anybody "Per Rapallo?" or if you want to make sure you're on the right class of train, ask "Treno regionale?" or "Treno Inter-City?" The stop before Rapallo is Santa Margherita Ligure, and you'll have time then to gather your luggage and head for the exit doors.
For a stay in Rapallo, if the weather is warm, the gelateria Frigidarium right across the short castle on the seafront serves some of the very best fruit gelati I have ever tasted. The wine bar in the middle of the old centro called Cantina d'Italia (you can't miss it) is a great place to sit with a glass of wine or cup of coffee at 6pm and watch all of Rapallo and its dogs stroll by. In between the train station/bus stop and the seafront, the bakery Tossini serves (around teatime) a very credible version of the local cheesy specialty, focaccia col formaggio. I believe David Downie recommends restaurant U Bansin for classic local fish dishes and pastas.
If the weather is beautifully clear, it make for a lovely day to take the 10-minute bus ride from Rapallo uphill to Ruta, and from there either walk (flat and shady) or take the 5 minute pretty shuttle bus ride to the village of San Rocco, from where you can see across the sea to Genova and the peaks of the nearest Marittime Alps. If you need a break, you can have coffee or delicious heap hot sandwiches at Bar Pippi, and then head down the staircase to Camogli. If you want lunch there, the Creperie is great for a light lunch, La Primula will be fine for a pasta lunch or a huge salad. In Camogli, you can catch a boat and within 20 minutes reach a small cove where you find the 8th C. abbey of San Fruttuoso (you can also eat a somewhat pricey lunch there), then take another short boat ride to Portofino. Do NOT eat in Portofino, just stroll around the tiny town and gawk. From Portofino, you can take a 15 minute boat ride back to Rapallo, or a slightly shorter one to Santa Margherita Ligure. You can also walk to Santa Margherita Ligure along a pretty path (40 minutes) or take 10 minute pretty bus ride there.
Arriving back in Rapallo, you might even have time to take the cable car up the peaks above Rapallo for a view that stretches, on a clear day, all the way to the islands of the Bay of La Spezia. You find the departure point for the cable car a five minute walk behind the train station (heading toward the hills, away from the sea; walk along the river).
http://www.comune.rapallo.ge.it/interna_AT.asp?id=343
If you want to go to Chiavari, it is a short train ride, but it is best to go either in the morning or the afternoon when the shops in towns are open and people are out and about. When you leave the train station, walk with your back to the sea, in a straight line, and you will reach the historic center of town in less then 10 minutes. There is a wonderful, incredibly cheap and historic restaurant in Chiavari called Luchin (Lew-keen) that isn't hard to track down. It serves chickpea tortes called "farinata" from its wood-burning stove, and plenty of good roasted meats and side veg.
I don't think you will have too much trouble negotiating getting there. If you want to drop between 50 and 100 euros, you can take a taxi. This 2010 thread makes interesting reading:
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTop...n_Riviera.html
If you'd rather save your euros, it will cost you about 6 euros to use the airport shuttle (Volabus) to go to either of Genova's train stations. For you, Brignole station would be optimal, and it is the second and last stop that the Volabus makes. Before you leave home, look at a Trenitalia train schedule and write down the NUMBERS of the trains that leave Brignole for Rapallo around the time you expect to be there. You can buy a ticket at the station, from the ticket sellers behind the windows or from ticket machines that have an English-language option. There are lit-up big boards where you can see the track where your train is leaving. You can identify your train for Rapallo by its NUMBER.
Do NOT board an Inter-City train (IC train) unless you have bought the more expensive IC ticket. The Regional trains (which take a little longer) are marked by "R" on the departure board.
By the way, it is very normal to see Italians double-checking with other Italians whether the train they are about to board is the one they want. You can ask anybody "Per Rapallo?" or if you want to make sure you're on the right class of train, ask "Treno regionale?" or "Treno Inter-City?" The stop before Rapallo is Santa Margherita Ligure, and you'll have time then to gather your luggage and head for the exit doors.
For a stay in Rapallo, if the weather is warm, the gelateria Frigidarium right across the short castle on the seafront serves some of the very best fruit gelati I have ever tasted. The wine bar in the middle of the old centro called Cantina d'Italia (you can't miss it) is a great place to sit with a glass of wine or cup of coffee at 6pm and watch all of Rapallo and its dogs stroll by. In between the train station/bus stop and the seafront, the bakery Tossini serves (around teatime) a very credible version of the local cheesy specialty, focaccia col formaggio. I believe David Downie recommends restaurant U Bansin for classic local fish dishes and pastas.
If the weather is beautifully clear, it make for a lovely day to take the 10-minute bus ride from Rapallo uphill to Ruta, and from there either walk (flat and shady) or take the 5 minute pretty shuttle bus ride to the village of San Rocco, from where you can see across the sea to Genova and the peaks of the nearest Marittime Alps. If you need a break, you can have coffee or delicious heap hot sandwiches at Bar Pippi, and then head down the staircase to Camogli. If you want lunch there, the Creperie is great for a light lunch, La Primula will be fine for a pasta lunch or a huge salad. In Camogli, you can catch a boat and within 20 minutes reach a small cove where you find the 8th C. abbey of San Fruttuoso (you can also eat a somewhat pricey lunch there), then take another short boat ride to Portofino. Do NOT eat in Portofino, just stroll around the tiny town and gawk. From Portofino, you can take a 15 minute boat ride back to Rapallo, or a slightly shorter one to Santa Margherita Ligure. You can also walk to Santa Margherita Ligure along a pretty path (40 minutes) or take 10 minute pretty bus ride there.
Arriving back in Rapallo, you might even have time to take the cable car up the peaks above Rapallo for a view that stretches, on a clear day, all the way to the islands of the Bay of La Spezia. You find the departure point for the cable car a five minute walk behind the train station (heading toward the hills, away from the sea; walk along the river).
http://www.comune.rapallo.ge.it/interna_AT.asp?id=343
If you want to go to Chiavari, it is a short train ride, but it is best to go either in the morning or the afternoon when the shops in towns are open and people are out and about. When you leave the train station, walk with your back to the sea, in a straight line, and you will reach the historic center of town in less then 10 minutes. There is a wonderful, incredibly cheap and historic restaurant in Chiavari called Luchin (Lew-keen) that isn't hard to track down. It serves chickpea tortes called "farinata" from its wood-burning stove, and plenty of good roasted meats and side veg.
Jan 8th, 2012, 12:19 AM
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Zeppole, many thanks for your careful and detailed recommendations. I am printing all of this out, plus your replies on my Riviera del Levanto thread to take with me next month.
My friends don't believe all this inside info is generously given on a free travel forum.
My friends don't believe all this inside info is generously given on a free travel forum.
Jan 8th, 2012, 04:59 AM
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Great, but don't forget that the whole point of the Riviera is to inhale deeply the scent of the sea, the olive trees, and be happily surrounded by color. Although David Downe's Food and Wine of Genoa and the Italian Riviera is focused on food and wine, the descriptions and photographs of the myriad byways and antique corners of Genoa make it useful for getting the true flavor of the area.
In February, if the weather is dry, it can be ideal weather for hiking and stairclimbing, which gives you have of the snow-capped mountains in Piemonte, across the gulf. From Genova, you could take the train to Camogli and walk up the charming staircase to San Rocco -- or, if its not too cold, take the boat from Camogli to Punta Chiappa, and walk up those stairs to San Rocco (that is more of a genuine hike. You can have a bite to eat at Bar Pippi in San Rocco, or take the bus or walk the flat road to Ruta (5 minute bus ride, 30 minute walk) and eat at Bar Nicco with a stunning view of the sea. From Ruta, you have the choice of the vertiginous bus ride down to Recco, where you can catch the train for Genova, or the pretty mountain road to Rapallo if you want an ice cream at Frigidarium, and you can train back from there.
Even if it is too cold to eat outdoors in February, you can take a 20 minute train ride from Genoa to Nervi and eat a great cheap cheesy lunch of foccacia al formaggio at La Marinella and have a spectacular view of the Portofino promontory. You can see the restaurant from the Nervi train station platform (t looks like a tug boat). It hangs over the sea, so you reach it via an underpass right outside the train station. Nervi also has two quite interesting museums of 19th c. and early 20th c. (Futurismo) art.
I've yet to go, but for a rainy day in Genova, I'd be tempted to head to the Museo Sant'Agostino and the church of Santa Maria di Castello, and the covered market in the afternoon if you haven't seen it. The fresh fruit there is very good.
http://www.liguriapocket.com/it/t/Mu...t_Agostino.htm
http://www.santamariadicastello.it/chiesa.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDHjp...eature=related
If you haven't seen Michael Winterbottom's "Genoa", it is a very weak script and has plenty of cliche attitudes about life beyond the safety of little England, but it does have some feel for the confusion of medieval and industrial that makes up Genoa's urban core.
In February, if the weather is dry, it can be ideal weather for hiking and stairclimbing, which gives you have of the snow-capped mountains in Piemonte, across the gulf. From Genova, you could take the train to Camogli and walk up the charming staircase to San Rocco -- or, if its not too cold, take the boat from Camogli to Punta Chiappa, and walk up those stairs to San Rocco (that is more of a genuine hike. You can have a bite to eat at Bar Pippi in San Rocco, or take the bus or walk the flat road to Ruta (5 minute bus ride, 30 minute walk) and eat at Bar Nicco with a stunning view of the sea. From Ruta, you have the choice of the vertiginous bus ride down to Recco, where you can catch the train for Genova, or the pretty mountain road to Rapallo if you want an ice cream at Frigidarium, and you can train back from there.
Even if it is too cold to eat outdoors in February, you can take a 20 minute train ride from Genoa to Nervi and eat a great cheap cheesy lunch of foccacia al formaggio at La Marinella and have a spectacular view of the Portofino promontory. You can see the restaurant from the Nervi train station platform (t looks like a tug boat). It hangs over the sea, so you reach it via an underpass right outside the train station. Nervi also has two quite interesting museums of 19th c. and early 20th c. (Futurismo) art.
I've yet to go, but for a rainy day in Genova, I'd be tempted to head to the Museo Sant'Agostino and the church of Santa Maria di Castello, and the covered market in the afternoon if you haven't seen it. The fresh fruit there is very good.
http://www.liguriapocket.com/it/t/Mu...t_Agostino.htm
http://www.santamariadicastello.it/chiesa.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDHjp...eature=related
If you haven't seen Michael Winterbottom's "Genoa", it is a very weak script and has plenty of cliche attitudes about life beyond the safety of little England, but it does have some feel for the confusion of medieval and industrial that makes up Genoa's urban core.
Feb 7th, 2012, 09:14 AM
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Hi, I need to go from the Florence airport to Villa Tavernaccia in San Casciano, Italy. It is about 19 miles from the airport. Does anyone know how I can find out the cost of transportation. Taxi, etc. Thanks
