That's unfortunate, otherchelebi. We spent a day hiking in the Ihlara Valley marveling at its breathtaking beauty. But you're right; this shouldn't put anyone off. There are many other amazing sights in Cappadocia to amaze visitors!

OC..good news/bad news...good that the condition has been dioscovered and work is being done to cure it. Bad news that the site is closed )temporarily). One of my fondest memories of Cap is a hike through the canyon alongside the rushing river, stopping to see the frescoed caves along the way. I'll scan through my pics to see if I can post an overview of the valley here.

Hope you and the family are well and that you're as ornery as ever (according to young Adu..you may have read where he, Andrea and her two sisters met me for a joyous mini-GTG here in L.A.)

Stu

OC...

I hope this coms out clearly...great view of the valley.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/nHunZeSf5eMgN9Q-jDOTBtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=email

Stu, I could see some rocks in your photo as well. Except for the colours, the photo came out beautiful on my screen.

The whole ornery family, is now so experienced at being ornery that they do not know any better and are moving alomg.

I did try to dissuade Adu from going to the West coast, but to no avail. I guess i could have used the falling rocks excuse as well. I am glad they were not too much for you and that he did not say that they could have had a better time if they did not have to visit with you. Truely wish we could have joined the lot of you.

Maybe next time, if "the sky does not fall".

Tower, gorgeous photo.

Peg..here are some of m,y selected pics around Turkey, pre-digital. You can enlarge by clicking on pic and then the magnifyting glass icon..move pic around with mouse.
https://picasaweb.google.com/stuarttower/ScenesOfTurkey#

stu (L.A.)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/4208736971/in/set-72157622933537559/

Thanks for the information, otherchelebi!

I've allocated the better part of a day of my upcoming trip to Turkey for a visit to the Ihlara Valley - I hope it's open again by then! (Or that word of its continued closure allows me to change my reservations as necessary in a timely way....)

Although I can’t attest to the accuracy of the information, I recently heard that the closure of Ihlara Valley is expected to last at least 3 more months.

I am currently working on the assumption that it is unlikely that I will be able to visit the Ihlara Valley on my upcoming trip to Turkey, and so I have been trying to identify alternatives.

For context, I expect to visit the Goreme and probably Zelve Open Air Museums and at least one of the valleys near Goreme, perhaps the Zemi or Devrent Valley. I had been interested in the Ihlara Valley because (according to what I’ve read) it combines several features: (a) rock-cut churches in a range of styles from Coptic-inspired to Byzantine, painted by monks rather than artists, (b) impressive natural scenery, including the cliff walls, river, and trees and other vegetation, (c) glimpses of ongoing rural life, (d) the length of the hike, which I assumed would be 3 or 4 hours (counting numerous stops) from Ihlara to Belisirma—I don’t want anything longer than that, (e) enough visitors that I would likely be seen or found if I injured myself (unlikely, but as a solo traveler who did once fall, it is something I consider), and (f) a transportation option through lodging in Guzelyurt that would allow me to avoid back-tracking through the valley to my starting point. (The chance to seek gold-lettered graffiti marking the passage of illustrative Fodorites was, of course, also a central draw, but I trust otherchelebi when he says I can experience that elsewhere.)

What options should I consider as an alternative to the Ihlara Valley, either from Goreme or Guzelyurt?

Thanks in advance!

P.S. Stu and Michael – do you know where you were when you took your stunning photos? Even if I can’t hike through the valley, I think I’d enjoy savoring it from an overlook.

The overlook is at the entrance of the valley, that is, the entrance which requires 365 steps to get to the bottom. It's near the town at the head of the valley. The valley does not contain the strange formations seen elsewhere in Cappadocia.

Yes Michael..that would be the place..even if kja can't go any further, I recall standing at the overlook and shhoting the photo. Once down the stairs, I was able to walk along the rushing river to visit several of the fresco'ed caves. There was at the time a restaurant with a favorable view at the other end of the aforesaid overlook.

Have a great trip kja..
stu

Here's a (stitched panoramic) photo I took from the road from Güzelyurt just outside of Ihlara village:
http://www.herostratics.com/Stuff/IhlaraValley1.jpg
Taken about here - http://wikimapia.org/#lat=38.2448708&lon=34.3122768&z=16&l=0&m=b

Croesus....outstanding panoramic!. I'm surprised that so many tourists who visit the lunar landscapes of Cap..but neglect or never hear or read about Ihlara Valley.

Kja..I'll be rooting for you to find Ihlara open again before you get there! Just a word of warning..it's always possible that you will in fact be alone while walking in the "canyon" along the river to visit the fresco'ed churches...we were, with not a soul in sight.
Stu

We drove in from the other side, via a small little hamlet.

It was august, the scenery was brown, we start down into the valley, greener as we go, the trees, the shade, the little stream...it was our oasis. We had lunch on a platform over the creek.

I will admit to be really annoyed at the graffiti in some of the cave churches. How anyone can think of doing something like that.

Recommended to all, once it is open again

The overlook is nice, but unless one can visit the chapels in the canyon itself, I would skip it if time is an issue.

But, do not let this put you off. There are still many other places to visit in Cappadocia where you can see the names of previous Fodors posters like Adu and Cold carved in gold letters, Veni-Vidi, half an inch high. (you really have to search for them very carefully).
_____

To save money when viisted Turkey we stayed in a cave and when Other would not feed us I carved in the soft rock, "I Came, I Saw, I'm Hungry."

Cappadocia and Other's hospitality were the highlights of our trip. (Even though Other's wife hid in the closet because she was afraid of us.)

Here are a few more shots of Turkey, the fireworks are from Other's balcony (really).

https://picasaweb.google.com/113523841271811111555/WATurkey

https://picasaweb.google.com/113523841271811111555/SpringShow?authkey=Gv1sRgCM2u9MTp0p3BGg

The chapels were fascinating, but what made the walk through the canyon so special to me (aside from the stunning scenery) was watching people fish and farm along the stream. With the Selime fortress at one end and Güzelyurt with its mosque at the other, I would recommend a drive over to the Ilhara area.
You may want to check out Soganli valley also
http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/go/CentralAnatolia/Cappadocia/soganli/index.html

My impression is that the "monastery valley" that begins at the base of Güzelyurt might connect to the Ihlara Valley but is not the same. At any rate, the trail from Güzelyurt is rough and not well marked.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/4208734463/in/set-72157622933537559

Once again, I am indebted to an incredible group of Fodorites!

You’ve all affirmed my hopes to visit the Ihlara Valley, but if it isn’t open again when I’m there, at least I will have seen it vicariously through all of you. And much as I would like to see it in person, I’d rather not do so from the bottom of a rock fall! I sincerely appreciate that responsible officials are taking steps to ensure safety and secure the sites. And I’m fortunate to know that it is likely to be closed far enough in advance to think through my options.

The alternative that I’ve heard mentioned most often is one yorkshire mentioned – Soganli Valley. Any comments?

Michael – thanks for the information about where you took that stunning view over the Ihlara Valley and for your opinion that I might skip the overlook if time is precious. And particular thanks for mentioning the “monastery valley” and sharing your beautiful pictures – it looks so incredibly inviting! I’ll check with my lodging in Guzelyurt for more information; even a short walk there seems very appealing. Your stunning pictures have also convinced me to stop in Mustafapasha, which I had thought I might skip. Thanks for the inspiration! (And as for the Turkish Naturel Organic … Market – LOL! For a moment, I thought I found the perfect place to shop for the men - and maybe some women - on my list, but then realized it looked closed. Sigh.)

Stu – thanks for identifying where you took your stunning view and for the good wishes. Even if I am unable to visit the Ihlara Valley, I know I’m going to have a fabulous time in Turkey – how could I not?!? Now that I've finished the painful process of crossing places off my wish list, I'm able to focus on all the wonderful and amazing things I'm going to have the joy of experiencing. What a great trip its going to be! And thanks, too, for the reminder that I might end up not seeing any one else even if I do go to the Ihlara Valley. I will trust that the likelihood of an incapaciting injury is infinitesimal, and I will, of course, take appropriate precautions (like carrying a small first aid kit and making sure my lodging knows my plans). At least I no longer take the ridiculous risks I took in my youth! (BTW, from what I can tell, Hotels & Highways haven't announced their next tour. Please let me know when they'll be returning to my corner of the country - I'm looking forward to hearing them again.)

Croesus – thanks for you stunning panoramic view and the aerial view of the location from which you took it - wow! BTW, you had expressed interest in the Hotel Karvalli’s offerings for transportation to the Ihlara Valley. Its currently 25 euro to get there and back, and 15 euro for one-way transport – if the guest has a car, they will lead the person to where s/he wants to end his/her walk, where s/he leaves his/her car, and then they drive him/her to the place from which s/he will start hiking. That way, the person can hike at his/her leisure, without worrying about having to meet anyone at a particular time. Thanks again for recommending that hotel – I’m looking forward to spending a couple of nights there!

Michel_Paris – thanks for sharing your memories of Ihlara. I love the image of moving from drying, brown to lush, green vegetation. Seems an all-too-fitting metaphor for my vacations!

Aduchamp1 – LOL! I’ll look for your "I Came, I Saw, I'm Hungry"
 message. When I find it, I’ll stop for a picnic and will savor every bite. Think of it as my way of honoring you. And thanks for sharing your photos. I’m not sure how you got that last one of your “Spring Show” series – the one of me – but its nice to be able to visualize myself in Turkey.

Yorkshire – Your words capture the kinds of images that I hope to see, whether in the Ihlara Valley or elsewhere. And thank you so much for mentioning the Soganli Valley - that’s what the staff of my lodging in Goreme recommended as an alternative. Did you visit it?

Thanks for the nice comments about my photo. I now realise I could have taken a much better one if I'd wandered a few tens of metres to the right. Basically I just jumped out of my car and took a few snaps without thinking about it too much.
I reckon if you choose your spot you could take some really nice photos from above.

kja, unfortunately I did not make it to Soganli, but I hope you find what you are looking for. Rest assured it will be an amazing trip no matter what--one of my top trips for sure!

kja:

Hotels and Highways will be on tour in the west next month, but another Eastern tour is scheduled some time next year. We had a Tower Family Jam at Dari(Syd's wife, my granddaughter) and Syd's new place in Ventura two weeks ago..and Syd sat in with my son and DIL who were performing locally. We were all there and had a blast.

Stu (kja, keep me posted on your final Turley plans...I can recommend a cave hotel that we favored and where I recommended Aduchamp stay..The Esbelli Evi in Urgup. See my Turkey pics at the beginning of this thread...the cave is also featured. You can email me: rozstu1 at aol dot com)

I’m not sure how you got that last one of your “Spring Show” series – the one of me – but its nice to be able to visualize myself in Turkey.

Please do not get stoned in Turkey, it is frowned upon.
____

Stu's recommendation of Esbelli Evi was spectacular.

The more I learn about the Monastery Valley, the more I think it will suit me extremely well. In fact, I’m even wondering how I missed it the first time around! How I love the answers one can find here on Fodor’s!

Croesus – I will definitely keep your advice in mind, but I think you’re talking about asymptotic differences. If I see anything that vaguely approximates what you saw, I’ll be happy! If I find anything even better, I fear I might lose my footing and take a terrible fall.

Yorkshire – I am absolutely certain that you are correct: It WILL be an amazing trip, no matter what it ends up holding for me – how can I miss with a destination like Turkey? I am so lucky to be able to travel!

Stu
➢ Sounds like a joyous family get-together! I’ll look forward to the news of H&H’s next visit to the east coast.

➢ I remember being inspired by your photographs of Turkey the 1st time I saw them; they don’t lose power with a second viewing! (And that’s true of the pics you have so generously shared of the other places you’ve visited, too.)

➢ keep me posted on your final Turkey plans … I would love to have your input, Stu! I drafted my itinerary with the much appreciated help of a number of helpful Fodorites, so the thread is a bit long. The itinerary I’m working with is basically the one I laid out in my message of 19 Jan at 1:55 p.m. for days 1 – 16 and 20 - 25, tweaked for days 17-19 as indicated in my message of 25 Jan at 11:46 p.m. Nothing is written in stone, so please feel free to share your insights! See:
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/please-help-me-explore-turkey.cfm#last-comment

Stu & adu -- I appreciate the recommendation for the hotel in Urgup. Some years ago, I spent a wonderfully memorable night at one of the cave hotels in Matera, Italy. It was a gorgeous place that was almost perfect. The one problem was that it was WAY too humid. I spent the night alternating between the air conditioner (which made the room damp and chilly) and an open window (which meant steamy heat), and I was decidedly worse for wear in the morning. Nothing a few cups of delicious coffee didn’t mend, but still…. I have no regrets whatsoever about staying there – it was a very special experience, but when it comes to cave hotels, I’m inclined to think “been there, done that.” So, for my first few nights in Cappadocia, I’m planning to stay at a small, well-reviewed non-cave hotel in Goreme that has a terrace with views over fairy chimneys and staff who have been truly amazing in their responses to date. Ex: I asked about the closure of the Ihlara Valley more than a month ago, and was told the closure was likely temporary. Just last week, when there was a news report that the valley would be closed for at least 3 more months, that person immediately e-mailed me to let me know and to recommend an alternative. I am VERY impressed that he remembered my inquiry and followed up so responsively!


Aduchamp1 - Much as I usually enjoy your esoteric and quirky sense of humor, I must ask you, PLEASE do not joke about getting "stoned" in Turkey! Images from The Midnight Express still haunt. Let me be clear: I WILL NOT get stoned in Turkey. I am truly glad that you have chosen to share your experiences and expertise with me as I plan my trip, and hope you understand my concern about how your undoubtedly innocuous remark might be misunderstood. I trust that stones will not quash me in Turkey, and I do not anticipate being turned into stone in Turkey. And truth be told, my bone structure will never actually resemble the gorgeous, if damaged, statue that was the last photo in your “Spring Show” series, so no one will ever even think I might have been turned into stone there or elsewhere. I do hope to see stones in Turkey, maybe even including some that have been carved with frowning faces. I do not expect to frown upon any stones I see there. And whatever these experiences with stones might be, I WILL NOT get stoned in Turkey.


Again, my thanks to all!

I just heard that Ihlara Valley has been re-opened. Can anyone confirm?

And now that I have become enamored of the idea of visiting Monastery Valley, does anyone have any further comments to help me decide between the two?

Thanks!

Definitely the Ihlara valley.

Ihlara Valley is now open for tourism in general, according to the director of culture and tourism of Aksaray province.

he also said that, there is some work being conducted t certain parts of the valley in terms of safety for the historic sites and for the visitors and those individual areas will be opened for visitors at the conclusion of the works.

The statistices show that 300,000 people visited Ihlara valley and the over 90 churches and other sites in the valley in 2011.

Final note : Although not as deep as the Grand Canyon, I do not recommend that you leave the valley at the wrong end where you would have to climb up the steps. They do not keep statistics of the foolhardy or give medals.

kja...go with Ilhara..I'm so very happy that you'll have the opportunity now..if you have any problems do not hesitate to call on "Other"..he can be there for you. He told me so.
Adu can verify.
stu

I am always there stu, but in spirit only. This means I can solve spiritual problems, which are in the majority in that part of the world anyway. ja, just call ether794, after the standard area code.

I went down and up the steps. If you are reasonably fit it is not a problem. Gujidebooks say that the best churches are near the steps.

Thank you all - Ihlara it will be! (Unless, of course, things change again in the meantime.)

My plan had been to enter the valley near Ihlara and exit near Belisirma, which I think would mean that I would start with churches that have somewhat older Coptic influences and end with those with more Byzantine influences. And I would be able decide whether to go further north than Belisirma once I see how I feel and how much time has passed. Does that make sense?

BTW, other, feel free to start solving my spiritual problems now - no reason to put off until tomorrow what is so sorely needed today! I'm sure stu and adu will support you.

And Michael, I'm not at all sure I currently qualify as reasonably fit, but I figure that by the time I reach Ihlara, I will either have climbed up and around enough interesting places to be fit enough to proceed or I'll be stretched out in a hamam (or hospital) and won't have to worry about which hikes to take!

Thanks again, to all - much appreciated!

Strike that plan - instead, I'll start not at Ihlara, but rather by going down the stairs by the tourist office and end at Belisirma. Sorry for the confusion!

and sorry for the poor grammar! its the end of a LONG week. Thank goodness!

Other's brother Kebap Dylan Chelebi is famous in Turkey for writing and singing, "Everyone Must Get Stoned, If the Minsistry of Tourism Can Charge An Extra 2 Lira For It."

Did you know that Tower is so old, he still has his library card from Ephesus?

It is amazing what one can learn hear on Fodor's! Makes me wonder if a library card from Ephesus was the real fountain of youth....