Ruby62

We are a couple in our 50s and will be in Croatia for 14 days from 20th June 2017 - 3rd July 2017. We will be in Venice just prior to that and plan on getting the ferry from Venice to somewhere in Istria - possibly Rovinj. We are flying out of Rome and have found a Vueling flight from Split so will probably book that.(Any other suggestions?) We'll hire a car in Istria. During our 14 days we would like to stop somewhere for 7 nights and are flexible on the other nights. We would like suggestions of where to stay for both the 7 nights, and the other nights. Ideally (for the 7 night stay)we would like to be on/near the coast so we can swim in the sea (if it's not too cold?!).We would also like to spend some days visiting other places - a short drive - other beaches/towns/villages/restaurants/natural sights etc. Ideas please! So could be a week in Istria or a week on an island.

We're keen on the islands out from Split - but which one? We don't like wandering around amongst hoards of tourists (although I accept we will have to do this occasionally) so prefer to stay where it's a bit quieter but not completely dead. Is it easy to get the car out to these islands? (Hvar,Korcula, Vis). Is it worth the extra trip to Vis? We could always ditch the car at Split and do the islands without the car, but then we would be relying on public transport to get around.We are foodies so love experiencing the local cuisine and eating out, especially for lunch. If we went to Hvar but didn't stay in Hvar town - what are other options?

Also considering detouring to Plitvice lakes on the way to Split or the other option is the coastal road between Rijeka and Starigrad (is it a good road/worth driving/picturesque?).

And last by not least - how about the northern islands of Krk and Cres? I know very little about these islands - so another idea could be Istria for a week and a week on one of these islands.

All suggestions appreciated - thank you!

kja

If you haven’t already done so, I strongly recommend that you consult the <i>Rough Guide</i>, which provides much better coverage of the areas that you mention than most guidebooks.

Rovinj would be a very good basd for Istria.

As for the islands, Hvar Town can be a very heavily touristed, party-oriented place in high season. Stari Grad (also on Hvar) is much quieter – but perhaps too quiet for your interests? Korcula is delightful, but a week there might be a bit much. Depends on what you want to see and experience. I didn’t make it to Vis, nor have I been to Krk or Cres.

You might want to keep in mind that day trips from an island base are generally more limited than from anywhere on the mainland. So, for example, you’d have many more – and more convenient – day trip options from Split or even Trogir than from Hvar, Korcula, Vis, or any other islands.

The Plitvice Lakes National Park is, IMO, the single most un-missable of Croatia's many splendors. Not only are the lakes connected by travertine waterfall formations, each lake has unique microbiota, and as a result, the lakes are different colors. The best way to see that is to make a single, long loop through the park -- something on the order of 6 hours or more (including time for the boat that connects the lower and upper lakes), and by all means, start at the lowest part of the park so you are facing the falls as you proceed.

The roads from Rovinj to the Plitvice Lakes and from there to Split are generally quite good and most of your driving would be on major autostrada. The segment of the coastal road that I drove (from Jablanac to Senj) had some interesting scenery in parts, but IIRC, some of the roads were more challenging, and the traffic around Rijeka caused some long delays.

Hope that helps!

lanejohann

We sailed to hvar from split back in 2006
it was touristy but fine...plenty of places to get away to...we did by getting a car for the day
vis is quieter..more rustice..less developed...we found titos cave...look nfor the red concentric circles ...like a target sign and that will lead you to where tito had his meetings

we drove plenty in Croatia..roads are good...very scenic round the coast with mountains coming down to the road

only hard bit was finding our way out of Zagreb airport..we missed the sign to head down to plitvice...

Croatia is wonderful destination and back in 2006 it was cheap!

lanejohann

we also sailed to brac..and to supertar and mjlet
but its differnet when youre running your own itinerary on a boat...you go where you pretty well please

stay a night in trogir if you can...lovely walled town...

kja

@ lanejohann: Did you drive near the coast of the Kvarner Gulf? Just asking because IME, the scenery there was nothing like the dramatic beauty of the Dalmatian Coast. I, personally, would not have given up either the Plitvice Lakes or the convenience of the interior highways to drive the coast by the Kvarner Gulf unless one had a very specific reason for doing so. JMO.

By 2009, when I visited Hvar Town during the shoulder leading into high season, it was so fully committed to the yachting party scene that I found it unpleasant, even on a day trip -- it's a place with a lot to be admired, and I'm glad I spent a few hours there, but it was way too upscale and party-hearty for me. JMO. In high season (when the OP will be visiting), I've heard from more recent travelers that it can be quite an over-the-top jet-set party-til-you-drop place, with music from competing venues reverberating through the town. I could be wrong. That said, I believe one can stay a bit out of town if one wants, and then the question becomes how to take the interests of foodies into consideration....

I agree that Trogir is lovely.

Ruby62

Thanks both of you for your comments. I have ordered a copy of the Rough Guide - thanks for that advice. We're favouring a week in Istria (Rovinj)then driving to the Plitvice NP, stay a night and do the park the following day. Then on to Sibenik, maybe do the Krka NP the following day, another night in Sibenik then on to Split via Trogir. I'll need to do some more research into the islands.

kja

Sibenik, the Krka National Park, Trogir, and Split are all worthy destinations, IMO. Enjoy!

yorkshire

I agree you need to read up on the country first and get a sense of things, but if you are planning to fly out of Split, then I would not choose Cres, though Krk could work (bridge from Rijeka and then ferry to mainland). If you were planning on staying in Istria and then returning to Venice, then Cres and Losinj would make a nice island stay, but if going to Split, then I would probably go with Vis or Hvar (and stay in Stari Grad).

kja

Interesting, yorkshire! I was very glad that I stayed in Stari Grad, but from what I can tell, it isn't on most people's radar. It seems too quiet and out of the way for many, and at least when I was there, the tourism infrastructure in the town itself was surprisingly limited. Maybe that has changed?

kja

BTW, just to be clear, Stari Grad (2 words) is on Hvar Island, and is not the same as Starigrad (1 word), which is along the mainland coast a bit north and east of Zadar. (Stari means old; grad means city; so you'll even find sections of cities in the area that are referred to by those words.) I was referring to the city on Hvar, and believe yorkshire was, too. I believe that Ruby62 referred to the mainland city in her original post.

yorkshire

I should clarify I have not been to Stari Grad, but in July that is where I would choose over Hvar town (though in spring or fall, Hvar town is lovely). I am guessing there are still plenty of accommodations and restaurants. Plus, if they take the car (which for several days on the island I would do), that is the ferry arrival point from Split. It's hard to go wrong really!

kja

Oh, that makes sense, yorkshire! It seems that Stari Grad on Hvar can refer to a district that includes the port, the city core, and some resort/residential areas scattered in the area. I was referring to the city itself. Here's some info:
http://www.hvarinfo.com/stari-grad/
I can't speak to the options in the resort section of the district. I can say that both accommodations and dining options in the city center were very limited in 2009, although I thoroughly enjoyed my dinner at Eremitaž, which still gets great reviews.

If the area appeals to the OP, I agree that the district would be a good alternative to Hvar Town during high season for those with a car.

Thanks for clarifying!