OReilly

Well, I told you I couldn’t wait to go back to Galicia! I have four days in September and my preliminary itinerary looks like this:

Day 0:
- Arrive in Madrid
- Pick up car and drive to Avila
- Stay the night at the Parador

Day 1:
- Explore Avila
- Drive to Salamanca & explore
- Drive to Tordesillas, stay the night in the Parador

Day 2:
- Drive to Burgos & explore
- Drive to Leon, exploring small towns on the way, following the Camino route as far as possible

Day 3:
- Explore Leon
- Drive to Ponferrada and explore
- Drive to Monteforte de Lemos and stay in Parador

Day 4:
- Not sure …..
- End up in Sanitago de Compostela airport for evening flight to Madrid

I need your comments on whether this is a reasonable itinerary – too much or too little each day. Suggestions for the last day very welcome.

Regards Ger

anamaria

Bookmarking.Next trip is Spain.Waiting for answers

annhig

If you can i would arrange itinerary to stay in the Parador in Leon - we did so over 20 years ago and I still remember the joy of sleeeping between linen sheets.
You will need at least a day to explore salamanca, IOM, ditto Burgos. Leon, was not memorable, apart from the Parador, whereas Burgos and Salamanca were. Also Avila was interesting, with the really spooky relics of St. Theresa.
another very Spanish place was the museum of sculpture in Valladolid - a real insight into the spanish psyche!
I realise that my memories are a bit hazy after 20+ years, but you can't argue with those sheets.

kenderina

I agree with annhig, half a day is not even a panoramic visit to Salamanca
My suggestion is leaving out the night at Tordesillas and sleep in Salamanca.
I also wouldn't sleep at Monforte de Lemos..it's not worth if you are losing time to see Burgos.
So I will do the nights like this :
Day 0 Avila
Day 1 Salamanca
Day 2 Burgos
Day 3 Leon or Ponferrada
Day 4 Santiago

OReilly

Thank you both, just what I need.

I bought a book on the Camino and am plotting the journey between Burgos and Santiago based on the pilgrim route - facinating!

The reason for the stop between Salamanca and Burgos is that it is a 2.5 hour drive and I was trying to limit my drive time to under 1.5 hours.

I'll definately take your advice about spending more time in Salmanca and Burgos.

Thanks again

Regards Ger

lreynold1

I think you've gotten some good advice, but I would disagree with the opinion that Leon is not memorable. I think the gothic cathedral in Leon is one of the world's most stunning. The three levels of stained glass windows are unbelievable. Inside the church during the day, it's like little jewels all over the floor. And at night the cathedral is lit and it's beautiful. The old part of Leon is a typical Spanish historic center, lots of pedestrian streets, all sorts of commerce, bars, restaurants and residences crammed in. The central downtown has a very nice building by Gaudi.

I've walked the Camino several times, and would be happy to suggest stops between Burgos and Santiago, depending on what you are interested in.

In between Burgos and Leon, you've basically got the meseta. Castrojeriz, the town right before you climb up and onto the meseta, is a lively town that stretches for two kilometers or so along the side of a hill with a ruined castle at the top. The small town of Fromista has a beautiful romanesque church (the experts criticize the restoration of all the wild carvings on the capitals inside and out, but to the untrained eye like mine, it's amazing). Sahagun is a medium sized town with several nice romanesque churches.

Between Leon and Santiago, my favorite places are Astorga, Rabanal, Villafranca del Bierzo, O Cebreiro, and several little hamlets in the middle of some of the most beautiful green scenery. For instance, the 15 or so km on the walking path between Sarria and the few houses that make up the village of Morgade is just georgeous, but I don't know if you'd have access to it with a car.

Be careful, if you see too much of it or talk to too many people doing it, you might get hooked and want to walk it yourself!

Maribel

Hi Ger,
You're amazing! You just returned and now are heading back!
Drive from Madrid to Avila is easy unless you hit a holiday wkd. as you very well know! I love the Avila Parador. And make sure to walk the walls while you're there and stop for that perfect photo op outside of town at Las 4 postes before heading on to Salamanca.
Tordesillas, after Salamanca, was my 2nd Parador stay in '70, so I'm obviously biased. It's lovely.
I hope you will stay at the Parador Hostal de San Marcos in León-one of the crown jewels in the Parador chain! León is truly an unsung gem.

Due west of Astorga, please, please stop at the atmospheric "maragato" village of Castrillo de los Polvazares, a 4 km. detour from the A6.
Then at Ponferrada, please take a detour down the LE 161 to Peñalba de Santiago. You won't ever forget this detour. I have a friend who runs Camino tours, and she always takes her guests down to Peñalba.

From Monteforte to Santiago, I would explore the Ribeiro wine region, the area between Ribadavia, and Salvatierra de Miño, if you didn't get there on your trip a few weeks ago. As you know the autoroute, E1 from Vigo to Santiago is super fast.

This seems quite reasonable to me.
Happy trails!

annhig

Just shows what 20 years can do. I'd completely forgotten the Cathedral in Leon, but have a crystal clear memory of the numerous bathroom shops, and those sheets!

OReilly

Thanks Maribel!

I'll be updating my schedule this afternoon and will post it then.

regards Ger

Aleta

You'll love the Avila parador and it's location. Have you gotten a frineds of Paradores card? It gives you a free drink on arrival and free parking at the parador.
I suggest you not stay at Salamanca parador, as it's far away from the historical area and a newer building. We opted for a hotel closer to the cathedral, and found everything was within walking distance. Plus walking around the cathedral and university area at night gives you the most beautiful view of the lit buildings. The hotel was lovely and I can research the name.

Maribel

Hi Ger,
Keep your overnight in Tordesillas. The drive from Avila to Salamanca will take you no time whatsover, but do take kenderina's advice and spend a good deal of your day exploring all the riches of beautiful Salamanca and also the cathedral area of Burgos. I'll send you my Salamanca file, in case you don't have it already.

OReilly

Thanks for all you very welcome advice ladies and gentlemen. With only four days, I am going have to make some sacrifices. I have spent a few hours on Viamichelin.com and think the following itinerary is doable. On the down side, I have very little time to explore Leon and probably am not giving Avila and Salamanca their due, but both are so close to Madrid, I can do a weekend there at some time in the future.

I will contact the hotels tomorrow regarding availability. I anticipate some problems with the hotels on Friday, Saturday and possibly Sunday, as I am sure they get booked up in advance with weekend travelers from Madrid. If you know of any great 4-Star (and plus) hotels in these locations (Avila, Tordesillas area, Burgos) I would welcome them as a backup plan.

On Monday and Tuesday, I will be traveling along tiny roads, either on or just off the Camino, so I am still uncertain of the timing, but think I have built in enough slack (over double the time).

I have a 20:30 flight from Santiago de Compostela to Madrid, so I will have to cut the journey short at Ponferrada. In case I end up with extra time (unlikely) is Ponferrada worth a visit – it seems to be? The drive from Ponferrada to the airport is 2.5 hours and I have left 3.5 hours, just in case.

BTW, I bought two great books on traveling the Camino. The first I ordered from Amazon:
The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago, which is full of great information on walking the route, which I now fully intend to do at some time in the future, from St.Jean Pied de la Port (I have this dream of me and a Connemara pony walking the route together, but I am not sure I will be able to get him/her a room in a Four-Star establishment ). Here is the link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/031...900706?ie=UTF8

I also picked up a gorgeous picture-filled book in Santiago which inspired me to take this trip: The Road to Santiago by Edilesa Press (email: [email protected]). It was the ONLY English tourist guide I found in the several bookshops I visited in Santiago. I am so glad I found it.

I also picked up a map of the Camino in Santiago, which will help me greatly on this trip, as most of the roads I intend to travel between Burgos- Leon- Ponferrada show up as a dismal and frightening “white line” on the Michelin map. I drove a couple of those roads on my trip to Galicia and know what to expect!

Here is the complete itinerary, which I will loosely follow. If there are any towns on the Camino that are MUST SEES, please point them out.

"lreynold", I think I have included most of your suggestions. Unfortunately, I don't think I will have time to get to the ones in Galica, but if at all possible, I will. I have already done the research and they were all on my original plan, so they will be a back-up, if time allows. I am SO impressed that you have walked it several times - good for you!

Regards Ger

Day 0 - Friday
1830 – 2000: Drive from Madrid airport to Avila

Hotel: Parador of Avila
http://parapromotions-spain.com/para...ain/avila.html


Day 1 - Saturday
08.00 - 10.00 Explore Avila
10.00 - 11.30 Drive to Salamanca
12:00 - 19.00 Explore Salamanca
19.00 – 20.00 Drive to Tordesillas

Hotel: Parador of Tordesillas
http://www.parapromotions-spain.com/...rdesillas.html


Day 2 - Sunday
09.00 - 11.00 Explore Tordesillas
11.00 - 12.30 Drive to Burgos
13.30 - 19.00 Explore Burgos

Hotel: Hotel Abba in the city centre
http://www.abbaburgoshotel.com/i-index.htm


Day 3 - Monday
09.00 - 16.00 Drive to Leon along Camino via:
Sasamon
Olmillos de Sassamon
Castrojeriz
Boadilla del Camino
Fromista
Carrion de los Condes
Calzada de los Milanos
Calzadilla
Sahagun
Mansilla de las Mulas

16.00 - 19.00 Explore Leon

Hotel: The Parador of Leon
http://parapromotions-spain.com/para...rte-lemos.html


Day 4 - Tuesday
09.00 - 15.00 Drive to Drive to Penalbo de Santiago via:
Hospital de Orbigo
Astorga
Castrillo de los Polvazares
Rabanal del Camino
Foncebadon
Molinaseca

16.00 - 19.00 Penalbo to Santiago Airport

annhig

Dear Ger - the route sounds great - hope your hotel reservations work out. I'd love to hear about the Leon Parador when you get back. Can't help with hotels in Burgos - we stayed in a hostal a little outside the centre, which I remember being OK, but found our car had been broken into in the morning. So I'd find somewhere with a locked garage if I were you.
Have a great trip!

Maribel

Hi Ger,
Our Totally Spain friends really like the Abba in Burgos. If for some reason it's filled my other choice would be the NH Palacio de la Merced.

Day 1-Sat:
As you know, the Avila Parador is my sentimental favorite. It's so relaxing, and tucked next to the 11th century walls, with pretty garden that faces the multitude of storks' nests below. Room 209 has a great view of them. And try the yummy local white beans, juliones de El Barco de Avila or the local veal chop. Nice dining here. And I believe there are now 3 stretches of the walls that are walkable, open from 10-8. There may be night guided visits too. In the cathedral be sure to visit the beautiful tomb of Afonso de Madrigal, "El Tostado". On your way to Avila, you'll want to stop at the 4 pillars viewing site, out on the road towards Salamanca, Las 4 Postes, for that perfect photo op of Avila framed by the walls (their total length is 2,500 meters and 3 meters thick!)-hope there aren't many construction cranes to mar your perfect picture!

Day 2-Sun.
If you can wait until it opens at 10:30, I would be sure to visit the Convent of Santa Clara in Tordesillas, home to the signing of the treaty that divided the new world btwn Spain-Portugal and home of Joan the Mad, after her husband, Phillip the Fair died. Visit by guided tour only, and probably only in Spanish, but you can enjoy the coffered ceilings and mudéjar architecture just the same. You'll arrive a bit later to Burgos, but I really think it's worth the time, since you have the rest of the day in Burgos, and the Monasterio de las Huelgas is currently closed. See El Convento de Santa Clara here-
www.patrimonionacional.es

Dinner in Burgos may need to be tapas around Sombrerería street. The Rincón de la Merced in the NH, and Casa Ojeda or Mesón del Cid for roast lamb both closed Sun. eve as is El Angel.

Day 3
For me, Frómista and Carrión de los Condes are the highlights from an architectural stand point. Frómista's Church of San Martín is truly one of Spain's great Romanesque treasures (open 10-2, 4:30-6) In Carrión check out the beautiful Monastery hotel, Real Monasterio de San Zoilo for your coffee break-near the medieval bridge.

Ger, I strongly urge you to do your explorations of the cathedral (closes at 7 p.m.), the Basilica of San Isidro and Royal Pantheon (closes at 6:30) and the Barrio Húmedo area BEFORE checking in at the Parador way over by the river. We were sooooo glad we did! The Parador is quite removed from the cathedral area, so vast, so amazing, a monument in and of itself, that once you arrive there you'll be hard pressed to leave and you'll lose time to boot. There's a buzzer at the gate you must press to notify the front desk to lower the concrete pillars so that you can drive up to the front to unload bags, then have porter park car in back.

Day 4-Tues.
Ger, I'm confused about your evening's lodging. Is it not the Monteforte Parador?
Peñalba de Santiago is a tiny place in the Valley of Silence, a wonderfully beautiful detour to visit the Mozarabic church, down the LE 161 from Ponferrada.

Here's a very old description of mine of Castrillo:

"cutely restored little village with noble homes in orangish-red with green shutters and a very wide cobblestoned main street built for the mule trains, right off the Camino, 7 km west of Astorga, called Castrillo de los Polvazares, which has a nice little inn "Cuca la Vaina".
This is the Margatería, or the land of the "maragatos", a mysterious, very marginalized subculture of unknown origins whose men were the muleteers who transported goods between Castilla and Galicia- extremely hard-working, scrupulously honest and notoriously trustworthy but kept strictly to themselves and never married outside their clan. For special occasions they still dress in their unique native costumes which consist of big slouched hats, wide bottomed britches and red garters. Their specialty is the "cocido maragato", a quite heavy chickpea stew, a type of "pot au feu" which the maragatos eat backwards; first the meat, then the vegetables, then the soup. Legend has that was consumed backwards in case they would be invaded by the Moors. Before going to battle, they would then have already eaten the best and most nutricious part of their meal".

Hope this helps!
Regards,
Maribel

OReilly

Great advice Maribel, as always!

In my research today, I noticed you have recommended the NH hotel in Burgos. I have asked my TA to check out prices on that hotel as well as the ABBA. One of the many things I love about Spain is that I can afford to stay in LUX properties that I could never afford in France and Italy, where hotel prices seem so much higher. When in Spain, I like to indulge!

On Tuesday, I will be heading to the airport to catch a flight back to Madrid, so I will not need an hotel.

Thanks Annhig

I am so exicted at the prospect of returning to Spain so soon! Its all Maribel's fault - she infected me a few years ago her great passion for Spain and I have never recovered.

Regards Ger

Maribel

Of course! You're heading back and don't need lodging-had a mild brain cramp there!
Yes, check out the NH in Burgos. The NH has attractive weekend rates. The tower rooms at the Landa Palace are lovely, but it's out on the highway, and you'll want something in the center of Burgos.

And I'm utterly delighted to be to blame for your Spain passion!
Have a grand trip, as always!

cruiseluv

Hi Ger,

You're so lucky! I'll be leaving Madrid on Thursday and I'm soo sad!

I stayed at the NH in Burgos 3 weeks ago and loved it! Really nice room and modern bathroom . I was really pleased with the rate too!

Enjoy!

cruiseluv

Ger,

Another thing,

try to go at night to the Cathedral in Leon. Around midnight all the lights outside the Cathedral go out and they start turning on the lights inside. The effect on the beautiful stained glass is magnificent!

OReilly

OK, I am all booked:

The Paradors at Avila, Tordesillas and Leon have confirmed and I have booked the NH Palacio de la Merced in Burgos (114 Euros).

I got a realy good fare for a BA flight from LHR (100GBP) and was able to use my VISA travel vouchers, so zero cost! The flight from Santiago to Madrid was 45 Euros from the Iberia website (actually, the ticket was only 12 Euros, the rest was taxes and booking fees!!!)

So, I's all set

Hi Cruisluv, have you written a trip report about Burgos? I'd love to read it.

Regards Ger

Maribel

Hi Ger,
Great rate at NH Palacio de la Merced. Glad you're set to go.
Sent you my Salamanca notes via my personal email (hope they didn't get stuck in "suspicious mail&quot

Just like to second cruiseluv's suggestion. After you do your León touring and go back to the Parador to settle in, after dinner, do go back to see the cathedral's magnificent stained glass illuminated.

And as usual, have a marvelous journey!