Greetings! I was fortunate to have the opportunity to spend 8 days in Slovenia and Croatia during the last week of October. My husband was able to accompany me, and the trip was part leisure/part business – we were with a group and our hotels and many of our meals for chosen for us so we did not have as much individual time as we often do on a trip. It was a great experience, and it was nice to learn for myself some of the pros and cons of traveling with a group. We were fortunate that our fellow travelers were friendly and considerate (for example, on time).
These are the places we visited on our trip: Lake Bled and Ljubljana, Slovenia; Hvar, Split, Trogir and Dubrovnik, Croatia.
I am not going to do a full day-by-day detailed report, but will give the basics of our journey and provide a link to our photos. Feel free to ask questions as I am happy to provide additional, more specific information. I apologize in advance that this report is being written fairly quickly and without tons of editing, organization and reflection – hopefully, it will still read somewhat easily.
First, I have to say that we loved these destinations. The natural beauty is spectacular and the history is fascinating and varied. There are so many layers of history from Roman, Medieval, Venetian maritime empire, and Ottoman and Byzantine influences to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and, ultimately, the Communist era. One can see a Roman Palace (Diocletian’s) with the medieval city that grew within it and then view 1970’s Soviet-style square, concrete block apartment and office buildings just a few minutes away.
Lake Bled, Slovenia
We stayed at the Hotel Berc which is a simple “farmhouse” accommodation about a 5 minute walk from the main street. There are no lake views and it is not fancy, but the place is spotless and comfortable. The owner/manager, Luca (sp?), was friendly, warm and welcoming. Breakfasts were fresh and tasty – I would call is “Continental Plus.” There were no hot items, but there was a large selection of yogurts, cereals, breads, meats, cheeses, and fruit.
Our first night we enjoyed a hearty meal at the Union Restaurant – the veal special with potatoes and an order of grilled vegetables was delicious. The pasta dishes also got rave reviews.
It was cool and rainy during most of our 2-day visit and our views of the Alps were obscured by the clouds and mist. We did glimpse them as we flew in the first day and the setting is breathtaking. Even without the Alps Lake Bled, with its Island Church and Castle perched high above the village, is truly magical.
During our stay we visited the Castle, Tito’s former Villa (now the Vila Bled, a Relais & Chateaux property), strolled the village and visited the Church. We did not make it to the island due to the poor weather. We also drove around Lake Bohinj and stopped for coffee at a charming inn. It was truly pouring while we were at Lake Bohinj, but just a short walk proved it would be worth more time in better weather.
We enjoyed a lunch at Ostarija Peglezin along the main road through town (near Grand Hotel Toplice – which is a nice hotel – ask for rooms with a lake view). The gnocchi with proscuitto and rocket and the green tagliatelle with scampi were both tasty and filling.
Be sure to have a Kremsnita (Kraym schneeta) pastry – a layer of cream with a thick layer of vanilla custard between sheets of delicate, crispy crust. Yummm … with a coffee or tea, this is a perfect treat.
Our second dinner was at the Pension Mayer which is next door to the Hotel Berc – it is a similar property and also recommended. The dining room has a warm, alpine feel (as does a lot of Slovenia – definitely feels a bit like Austria). This restaurant is known as one of the best in Bled – we thought it was very good, but not quite as spectacular as its reputation. However, it must be noted that we ate a set menu with a large group that night so I am sure ordering a la carte as a regular diner would be even better.
Bled was gorgeous in the rain and chill. It was off-season and we loved it. I am sure it is amazing in the sunshine and warm weather.
fun4all4 - Trip Report - Slovenia and Croatia
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Thanks for sharing. We will be in Slovenia and Croatia next Spring, so I am anxiously awaiting more. We have reservations at Hotel Berc. Glad you liked it. I'm sure I will have questions as you go along. Thanks again.
Here is a link to photos from this portion of the trip:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?&conn_speed=1&collid=52521075207.677245957207.1194996036861&mode=fromsite
Nevermind ... I will try the link again.
OK, try this:
http://tinyurl.com/2zlspr
Here is the next installment:
Ljubljana
We spent a half day on our way from Bled to Croatia in Ljubljana – I was pleasantly surprised by how much I liked it. I am not sure what I expected, but it was charming. Having grown up in the 1970’s and 80’s, I never expected that I would visit anyplace “Behind the Iron Curtain” or within the “Evil Empire” or a “Warsaw Pact Nation.” I think growing up during the Cold War influenced my young mind’s “picture” of the “Eastern Bloc” countries so I tended to think of them all in black, white and grey. Kinda funny, huh? Obviously, these images were not correct and for years I have seen the glamorous photos of Prague, St. Petersburg and more …. BUT, at least where I live, there can still be a bit of a reaction from others, “You’re going WHERE?” “Why?” “What is there?” Prague may be well-known now, but Ljubljana still isn’t much on the radar. Anyway, forgive my ramblings; the bottom line is that Slovenia and Croatia may not be truly “exotic” destinations, but they were new to me.
We enjoyed our walking tour of the Old Town and were fortunate to go into City Hall and have a private audience with the Mayor of Ljubljana. He has big plans and visions for his city and there is a lot going on. There was a large Saturday market in progress and the Church of St. Nicholas was worth a visit. I especially liked the sculpted entry doors that were done in honor of Pope John Paul’s visit in 1996. There is a castle that towers above the town and a river runs through the city.
Pictures:
http://tinyurl.com/29wzhb
Hvar
We proceeded by bus from Ljubljana to Zagreb airport where we caught a plane to Split, Croatia. Our group was then transferred to the waterside where we boarded one of two private yachts for our trip to Hvar. It was a truly special excursion as we enjoyed our 1 ½ trip on these lovely boats during sunset over the Adriatic. What a glorious and memorable trip.
It was dark by the time we arrived in Hvar, but the air was balmy and the breeze rustled the palm trees along the promenade. Our bags were taken off the boats and transported for us to the hotel so all we had to do was stroll around the harbor to the Hotel Adriana which opened in June. This newly remodeled/rebuilt hotel is part of the Suncani Hvar chain (they also own 7-8 other properties on the island including the Hotel Riva and Hotel Amfora). The hotel is modern and lovely with stunning views of the harbor, town and fortress. There were still a few little “kinks” to work out (for example, our beautiful, sleek shower was so about the design, but water leaked out onto the floor), but it was still a great property – it is a member of Leading Small Hotels of the World. The service was good and the dining room was very good. After a great dinner, we had drinks at the 4th floor bar – it was an amazing night – warmish and breezy with an almost full moon. We sat on the patio overlooking the water and lights and enjoyed the company of our new friends from our group. Everyone was sharing travel stories and our good fortune at being able to experience such wonderful places.
The breakfast was extensive and delicious – croissants, fresh fruit, grilled vegetables, eggs and sausage, figs, dates, yogurts, cereals, and good coffee. Our guide today was exceptional. She shared tons of history about the region. We visited the Franciscan Monastery with its spectacular Last Supper and attractive gardens, cloister, and cypress tree. One of the most interesting stops of the trip was to the Benedictine Convent where cloistered nuns make high quality lace out of the agave cactus plant.
Our afternoon was free. Some of our group enjoyed the spa at the Adriana and gave it high marks. We hiked up to the Fortess overlooking the city and surrounding islands before settling in at a café in St. Stephen’s square for a glass of wine. Dinner was at the hotel and was quite good.
The next morning was an early one as we needed to catch the 7:30 am catamaran back to Split.
Pictures:
http://tinyurl.com/2ao5vh
Thank you for sharing! My goodness, the photos are so beautiful. How magical everything seems. I'm inspired to plan a trip to Slovenia.
Split
Upon our arrival in Split we boarded a bus for a short drive around the town passing the commercial center, stadium and some industrial areas along the water before being dropped off near the large promenade. Our tour of Split was really interesting – Diocletian’s Palace is well worth the time and it is neat the way the old Roman Walls enclose the medieval city that grew within it. We used our free time for a pizza lunch (good , but not particularly worth seeking out) and a stroll along the promenade and market area.
Trogir and Le Meridien Lav
Trogir is located about ½ hour from Split and has a lovely square with the Church of St. Lawrence as its anchor. The water views and promenade make this a good day trip or it could be a nice overnight with its small hotels and numerous dining and shopping options.
Our bus delivered us to our hotel for the night which was the gorgeous, sleek, and new Le Meridien Lav. It is located outside of Split and is a great Starwood property. The pools (outdoor and indoor), gym and spa areas were fantastic. There are tennis courts, a beach area, a casino, nightclub, several bars, and a very good restaurant. Our dinner included a pumpkin soup, sea bass with vegetables, and an apple and cherry strudel for dessert. Throughout Croatia and Slovenia we were pleased with the wine selections from the area.
Our breakfast at Le Meridien may have been the best we have ever had anywhere! I have never seen such an extensive and high quality spread.
Pictures:
http://tinyurl.com/3dhehp
Gorgeous pictures. I'm definitely going there in 2008!
Dubrovnik
The drive from Split to Dubrovnik took about 4 hours (?). The coastal drive reminded me a bit of the French Riviera or Northern California coastal highway – very pretty and windy and high, but with its own distinct look.
Dubrovnik is a jewel. I am sure it can be very crowded in high season when the cruise ships are in, but there is a reason people want to go to there. The walled city is amazing and you can walk all the way around the top. At every turn, you stop to take a picture because each vista is prettier than the last. The history is fascinating, and it was a valuable experience learning more about the siege in 1991-92 as well as its more distant past.
We stayed at the Hotel Excelsior just outside the city walls of the Ploce gate and next to the Villa Argentina. The Excelsior closed just after we left for major remodeling/renovation – it was a nice property before and should be special once reopened. The advantage to this location is that you have amazing views of the old city and it is quiet and peaceful (on the water view side especially).
I also visited the Hotel Imperial which is outside the Pile Gate on the other side of the city. It also has decent views, but not as good as the other side. It is, however, a shorter walk into the old city and a lovely hotel.
Our tour of Dubrovnik was excellent. We visited the Church of St. Blaise and the Franciscan Monastery among other sites.
Lunch was at Toni, small, cozy Italian place that was good. It rained most of our last day, and we needed to get some little gifts so we did some shopping before returning to the hotel to pack and get organized. While Slovenia and Croatia were excellent destinations for their history, beauty and even food, I will say I would not recommend going if your main interest is shopping. Sure, there are some nice things and, as I am not a huge shopper, I did not exhaust our possibilities, but I did not find the shopping on this trip to be a highpoint.
We were free for dinner on our last night and chose to go to Proto with 2 other couples. This restaurant was recommended by several sources. I have to say that we thought it was good, but not special. Some of our selections were excellent, but others were just average and one entrée was actually not tasty. I wonder if the regular chef was off or something – it was a rainy weeknight at the end of October and not high season. We liked the ambience and the menu is appealing, but some of the dishes left us wanting. The black ink risotto with seafood appetizer was delicious. The escargot was tasty and tender, but not amazing. DH’s fish special with asparagus in what was supposed to be a white wine sauce (but was really a rather bland cream sauce) was not good although my salmon with truffled pasta was delicious although very rich. Overall, we had a lovely evening and I would return, but I guess my expectations were too high.
Overall, we loved this trip and would highly recommend it. I would be happy to answer any questions or provide more information where desired.
Hope this is of some help to others planning a trip.
Pictures:
http://tinyurl.com/yp8sah
Thanks for the kind words!
fun4all4
Thanks again for taking time to write a trip report. I love all the pictures! I have never considered going to Slovenia and I had a very small interest in Croatia, but after reading part of your trip report, I think it is time to reconsider. Thanks again and I truly enjoyed your last report as well.
Maria
Really enjoyed the trip and the pictures. Once I get to Prague I think Dubrovnik will become high on my list. I find it amazing that no matter where we travel in Europe and No. Africa kids are always finding anywhere to play soccer!!
cafegoddess and jgg - Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the report.
Have a great day.
jgg - yes, I still really want to get to Prague and Poland at some point.
fun4all4, thanks for another lovely report! Slovenia and Croatia look so beautiful in your photos and I agree that Slovenia is reminiscent of Austria. I've been interested in going there since I read tcreath's report last year.
But I have to ask: if you had to choose between returning to Slovenia and Croatia or to the Dordogne, which would you choose?
great report; thanks for bringing back the memories of our trip two years ago.
Glad you had a great time. Sounds like you stayed at some fab properties; glad to hear Hvar has much more to choose from now.
Thanks!
moolyn - Yes, tcreath's report helped spark my interest in the area as well.
As for trying to choose between the Dordogne and Slovenia/Croatia .... wow, that is a tough one. They are really different and offer different experiences. It depends what you are looking for and if you want to try something new. I am so glad I have visited both. I suppose that, while I can for sure see myself revisiting Croatia and Slovenia, especially if I went during the summer for diving, swimming, sunning, relaxing and dining on one of the islands, I think I could spend more time in the Dordogne on a regular basis due its easy accessibility and fine dining options. Really, I loved both so hard to pick.
tripgirl - I should be thanking you as your report was a big help to me as I organized for this trip. Yes, there are definitely an ever-increasing number of accommodations options in Hvar and throughout Slovenia and Croatia as their tourism explodes. In particular, higher end options are increasingly available.
P.S. Did you enjoy your Russia/Baltics trip with Exeter?
fun,
Yes we had a grand time; Russia was definetly a whole different kind of experience.
We enjoyed it, but it was not a relaxing type of of trip.
ttt
fun4all - Great report, thanks for sharing! We are going to some of the same areas in March, so it's great to hear the rave reviews.
I am trying to decide whether to stay 1 night in Split or Trogir, but I am leaning towards Trogir after reading your review.
Great report and photos, fun4all4! One more area that I'd really like to visit...
Are you still planning to go to Greece, and if so, how are your plans coming? We have everything pretty much in place for our trip, I think...so now we just have to wait.
tripgirl - Yes, I have heard that Russia is truly a unique trip.
sessa - I am glad you enjoyed the report and hope it is helpful to you. Where are you going on your trip? As for the overnight decision - Split vs. Trogir .... I am not sure a majority would agree with me regarding a stay in Split. It is very interesting and I'm sure the Palace is gorgeous at night. There are probably more restaurant choices as well, especially in March which is not high season - I would guess Trogir will be pretty quiet. So, while I did enjoy our overnight outside of Split, I would not want to discourage a stay - one night would be nice and depending on your transportation and itinerary, it may be more convenient. Have fun whatever you decide.
Hi ms_go! I know, there is an endless list of places we want to visit - good problem to have!
Yes, we are set for Greece. We are going in June for 12 nights (on the ground). We will spend 3 nights in the Peloponnese (Nafplio and Delphi), then 4 nights Naxos, 3 nights Santorini, and end with 2 nights in Athens. Of course, our trip is in June and will have 6 young people between the ages of 14 and 24 so time for the islands/beach/sun and fun were a must. What did you decide upon?
We have nine nights: three in Nafplio, three in the southern Peloponnese (split between Monemvasia and the Mani peninsula), and three in Athens. I'm also now planning a trip to Italy (Tuscany, Rome and Venice) next June for a group that includes my daughter, mother and brother's family of five...I've been busy
Wonderful pictures! They took me right back to all the fun we had in Croatia and make me want to go again!
We will be in Greece (and Turkey) just before you next year. I hope we enjoy it as much as Croatia!
Thanks so much for sharing. Much appreciated.
Oh my, your pictures are absolutely beautiful - and it was so much fun reading your trip report & loved how you began your report with the comment that you were fortunate to have the opportunity, etc.. You made the most of that opportunity! Got a kick of of seeing the hay rack picture in Slovenia - had forgotten about those!
Thanks for bringing back wonderful memories of both our trips to Croatia & Slovenia. Never tire of looking at pictures of that beautiful area.
ttt