Family Christmas trip to PARIS & ROME where we ate a lot, walked even more, and discovered what nuns wear under their habits
Jan 29th, 2007, 09:26 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Family Christmas trip to PARIS & ROME where we ate a lot, walked even more, and discovered what nuns wear under their habits
Our family of 4 had a wonderful 2.5 week Christmas trip to Paris and Rome. I gleaned much information and a great deal of inspiration from this forum and hope that something in my trip report will be helpful to others.
Us:
We�re a family of 4: DH and me with our two kids, 23-year old DD and 14 year-old DS. Our year ahead will be busy so I wanted to spend two weeks as a family simply being together and having fun. That would never happen at home! We were torn about where to go (Hawaii? Caribbean? Switzerland? Belize?) so I asked all of you and then DH put together a little internal survey to rank options, we checked out the National Geographic Traveler Destination Scorecard, had daily discussions, I tracked airfare obsessively and after much discussion, and a good price on airfare, we settled on Paris and Rome.
We decided we could walk a lot, the weather might not be terrible, there�s lots to see and do, we love museums and there�d be plenty of good food to eat. We walked enough that I now refer to our trip as a hiking trip with good food and the weather was wonderful.
Transportation details:
Let me first say that I can read a map like nobody's business but trains and planes...a sort of panic sets in about boarding times and places. For good reason. 26 years ago my husband and I took the train from Florence to Paris. At about 10 p.m., after an hour or so on the train, one of the passengers asked us how long we planned to spend in Rome. His Italian accent was a little heavy so we explained carefully that we�d been to Rome, loved it and are going to Paris. He more carefully explained to us that we were ON the train to Rome. We eventually got back to Florence at about 4 a.m.
What's most memorable still is that DH ate the food we had at about 2 a.m.: a roll that he spread garlic paste on. I learned that one can indeed smell of garlic for 4 days!
So, we have a history of transportation troubles, both disasters and near-misses, and this trip was no different: flying from Seattle to Paris, a night train to Rome, then flying Rome to Seattle. We had minor yet very aerobic adventures getting to Paris: once at Sea-Tac, our flight was delayed due to fog in NYC...sent back to ticketing for re-routing...flight leaving after all but in 10 minutes...run! Then, arriving late in NYC, we caught our connection on Air France with but seconds to spare. We made it, dripping with sweat from our second airport run, and flew to Paris. Air France was comfortable and the food was good.
But we were also blessed: there was a brilliant display of northern lights out our window on our way to NY and we made it out of Seattle an hour before a windstorm shut down the airport.
Us:
We�re a family of 4: DH and me with our two kids, 23-year old DD and 14 year-old DS. Our year ahead will be busy so I wanted to spend two weeks as a family simply being together and having fun. That would never happen at home! We were torn about where to go (Hawaii? Caribbean? Switzerland? Belize?) so I asked all of you and then DH put together a little internal survey to rank options, we checked out the National Geographic Traveler Destination Scorecard, had daily discussions, I tracked airfare obsessively and after much discussion, and a good price on airfare, we settled on Paris and Rome.
We decided we could walk a lot, the weather might not be terrible, there�s lots to see and do, we love museums and there�d be plenty of good food to eat. We walked enough that I now refer to our trip as a hiking trip with good food and the weather was wonderful.
Transportation details:
Let me first say that I can read a map like nobody's business but trains and planes...a sort of panic sets in about boarding times and places. For good reason. 26 years ago my husband and I took the train from Florence to Paris. At about 10 p.m., after an hour or so on the train, one of the passengers asked us how long we planned to spend in Rome. His Italian accent was a little heavy so we explained carefully that we�d been to Rome, loved it and are going to Paris. He more carefully explained to us that we were ON the train to Rome. We eventually got back to Florence at about 4 a.m.
What's most memorable still is that DH ate the food we had at about 2 a.m.: a roll that he spread garlic paste on. I learned that one can indeed smell of garlic for 4 days!
So, we have a history of transportation troubles, both disasters and near-misses, and this trip was no different: flying from Seattle to Paris, a night train to Rome, then flying Rome to Seattle. We had minor yet very aerobic adventures getting to Paris: once at Sea-Tac, our flight was delayed due to fog in NYC...sent back to ticketing for re-routing...flight leaving after all but in 10 minutes...run! Then, arriving late in NYC, we caught our connection on Air France with but seconds to spare. We made it, dripping with sweat from our second airport run, and flew to Paris. Air France was comfortable and the food was good.
But we were also blessed: there was a brilliant display of northern lights out our window on our way to NY and we made it out of Seattle an hour before a windstorm shut down the airport.
Jan 29th, 2007, 09:32 PM
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Once we arrived in Paris there was a nice man waiting for us with a sign with my name on it. Despite DH’s frugal nature I had arranged to have a car service pick us up. It was a delight to arrive at our apartment without stress or worry and fun to have someone waiting there with a sign. And I avoided my fear of getting on the wrong train (we had our usual train disaster later in Paris...)
Our apartment in Paris:
In the Marais (http://www.vrbo.com/19130) on Hospitalieres-St. Gervais in the 4th, between Rue des Rosiers and the Rue des Francs Bourgeois just a block off R. Vieille du Temple. Great location and a lovely, large apartment. We were completely happy. There were 2 very pretty bathrooms, 2 bedrooms, a great eat-in kitchen, big dining room, living room, huge windows and a wrap around balcony with fun views. It was bright, quiet and plenty warm enough for us. The second bedroom is an attic room with views of the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, and the Centre de Pompidou. The views came with a price: it’s on the 5th floor with no lift. For us that was fine. I ate an extra pastry every day to make up for the exercise.
We loved the neighborhood, the apartment and I’d stay there again. The owner was a delight to deal with on email and her Spanish manager had a tiny lighted Christmas tree on the table for decoration!
Our apartment in Paris:
In the Marais (http://www.vrbo.com/19130) on Hospitalieres-St. Gervais in the 4th, between Rue des Rosiers and the Rue des Francs Bourgeois just a block off R. Vieille du Temple. Great location and a lovely, large apartment. We were completely happy. There were 2 very pretty bathrooms, 2 bedrooms, a great eat-in kitchen, big dining room, living room, huge windows and a wrap around balcony with fun views. It was bright, quiet and plenty warm enough for us. The second bedroom is an attic room with views of the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, and the Centre de Pompidou. The views came with a price: it’s on the 5th floor with no lift. For us that was fine. I ate an extra pastry every day to make up for the exercise.
We loved the neighborhood, the apartment and I’d stay there again. The owner was a delight to deal with on email and her Spanish manager had a tiny lighted Christmas tree on the table for decoration!
Jan 29th, 2007, 09:34 PM
#3
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LOL rosetravels, I would have loved to have seen your faces when the Italian gentleman advised you that you were on your way TO Rome..sorry for laughing but that must have been quite a look that you all gave him. And garlic breath, lol. Another fun and interesting trip report to look forward to. I hope you have time to post the next installment soon.
Jan 29th, 2007, 09:50 PM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Loveitaly - you must be a fellow west coaster.
The funniest part was arriving back in Florence at 4 am and trying to get into the hostel where my brother-in-law was staying. He was a student at Gonzaga on a year long exchange. We threw rocks at the window until his quiet roommate woke up and took pity on us.
The funniest part was arriving back in Florence at 4 am and trying to get into the hostel where my brother-in-law was staying. He was a student at Gonzaga on a year long exchange. We threw rocks at the window until his quiet roommate woke up and took pity on us.
Jan 30th, 2007, 07:19 AM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Daily pleasures:
Every morning in Paris one of us went to the patisserie. My favorite one was on R. Vieille du Temple and was very small. I loved their amandines with crunchy sugary dough at the edges, and the pain au chocolat were often warm. DH and DS liked a place around the corner on R. du Roi de Sicile. It was large and they were very friendly with great baguettes. Our apartment was next to a primary school and at 8:30 on chilly, misty mornings the only people we saw were workers and parents walking their children to school.
We had great weather with but one day of rain. We walked from 6 to 8 miles every day in Paris. Tiring at times but we couldn’t stop doing that – we so enjoyed just seeing the people, the neighborhoods, and the shops.
Late in the afternoon we’d go back to the boulangerie for our baguettes, lined up with all the French buying their baguettes warm from the oven.
What we did:
DAY ONE
Friday, Dec 15th: We arrived around noon and DH and DS napped while DD and I wandered around eating and window shopping (this is a regular theme.) There was an arts & crafts festival/sale in the old gym across the street and we went there first. DD secretly bought a gold glass necklace for me.
It always seems to take a day for me to get settled in and feel comfortable someplace. Paris was no exception. We stopped to look at several cafes but nothing felt right so we had coffee at the patisserie closest to our apartment.
Later that afternoon we walked to Notre Dame and around the Isle de la Cite. I'd thought about renting an apartment on the Island so was glad that it was close to our apartment.
The Christmas Tree in front of Notre Dame was tall and sparkled with white lights and red glass balls of all sizes. I think it's the most beautiful tree I've seen. We walked along the Seine, so happy to be in Paris. Back in the Marais we went across the street to Au Gamin de Paris for dinner. Good beef bourguignon, onion soup, salads and wine. I’m sure DS ordered dessert but I don’t remember what it was. I sense that it was chocolate. So nice to be together!
Every morning in Paris one of us went to the patisserie. My favorite one was on R. Vieille du Temple and was very small. I loved their amandines with crunchy sugary dough at the edges, and the pain au chocolat were often warm. DH and DS liked a place around the corner on R. du Roi de Sicile. It was large and they were very friendly with great baguettes. Our apartment was next to a primary school and at 8:30 on chilly, misty mornings the only people we saw were workers and parents walking their children to school.
We had great weather with but one day of rain. We walked from 6 to 8 miles every day in Paris. Tiring at times but we couldn’t stop doing that – we so enjoyed just seeing the people, the neighborhoods, and the shops.
Late in the afternoon we’d go back to the boulangerie for our baguettes, lined up with all the French buying their baguettes warm from the oven.
What we did:
DAY ONE
Friday, Dec 15th: We arrived around noon and DH and DS napped while DD and I wandered around eating and window shopping (this is a regular theme.) There was an arts & crafts festival/sale in the old gym across the street and we went there first. DD secretly bought a gold glass necklace for me.
It always seems to take a day for me to get settled in and feel comfortable someplace. Paris was no exception. We stopped to look at several cafes but nothing felt right so we had coffee at the patisserie closest to our apartment.
Later that afternoon we walked to Notre Dame and around the Isle de la Cite. I'd thought about renting an apartment on the Island so was glad that it was close to our apartment.
The Christmas Tree in front of Notre Dame was tall and sparkled with white lights and red glass balls of all sizes. I think it's the most beautiful tree I've seen. We walked along the Seine, so happy to be in Paris. Back in the Marais we went across the street to Au Gamin de Paris for dinner. Good beef bourguignon, onion soup, salads and wine. I’m sure DS ordered dessert but I don’t remember what it was. I sense that it was chocolate. So nice to be together!
Jan 30th, 2007, 07:29 AM
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The metro distance was fine, really, as it's a lovely short walk. But we are way into walking as you'll see later in our report. I did love the St. Paul metro station. It may sound silly but I really loved the exit - you ride up the escalator into a little square surrounded w/ medieval buildings and lovely trees. I always felt like I was popping up into a magical place.
Jan 30th, 2007, 07:51 AM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DAY TWO:
Saturday, December 16
First things first – the patisserie for breakfast snacks. Ooh La La!
We’d planned to go to the Flea Market today but it started to rain so we turned around. Instead we went to Paul’s and had more pain au chocolat, more cafe creme, then wandered the neighborhood and stocked up on groceries and supplies at the Monoprix. (Note: the 1 EU wine isn’t all that good. We had to try!)
I was quite taken with the personal pull along shopping carts tout le Paris seems to have. At the Monoprix they’d be lined up along the wall while their owners shopped. I’d like to find one online so I can walk to the grocery store at home.
We found a very fun artisanal market off St. Antoine that we never found again. We checked every day for more than a week and it never appeared, even on the next Saturday. At the market we sampled and bought wines and champagne and talked to the owner of one of the vineyards. Bought delicious cheeses and, best of all, had a potato dish made in a giant copper vat. Sort of like au gratin potatoes made with remarkable cheese but a little more liquid. Heaven! The nearby fromagerie was making a similar dish in a copper vat outside their store that morning and the scent was incredible. Both were similar but with different types of cheese. At the market it was a harder cheese, fairly strong flavor, and at the fromagerie he was laying slices of a brie type cheese along the top. Yum. Perhaps this was national potato day or something as we hoped to find vats of cheesy potatoes every day after that and never did.
If anyone knows what the potato dish cooked outside in big, wide pots is called, or where I can find a recipe, my family will happily raise a glass to your wisdom!
That afternoon DH rested while the kids and I went shopping on the Rue de Rivoli. Wow! There were a LOT of shoppers! We checked out all the bigger stores, looked at the beatiful black coats on the racks and went to Sephora.
At Sephora I tried to test some Guerlain parfum on my wrist but, as the clerk explained, it wasn't perfume at all but lotion. All over the floor! LOL. Fortunately I'm not easily embarassed and we sniffed another perfume and scurried away, gathering up DS who was loitering outside. Apparently he'd been shoed away from his inside loitering spot (he's a 6' lanky teenage boy - they grow accustomed to that.)
Dinner that night was at Le Petit Picard at 42 R. St. Croix de la Bretonnerie. I’d read about it on Fodors and it was good. You share tables. Our table mates were two gentlemen from Spain who helped us order the warm chocolate cake (delicious) for dessert. Our son was exhausted so he stayed home (probably still full of potatoes.)
Saturday, December 16
First things first – the patisserie for breakfast snacks. Ooh La La!
We’d planned to go to the Flea Market today but it started to rain so we turned around. Instead we went to Paul’s and had more pain au chocolat, more cafe creme, then wandered the neighborhood and stocked up on groceries and supplies at the Monoprix. (Note: the 1 EU wine isn’t all that good. We had to try!)
I was quite taken with the personal pull along shopping carts tout le Paris seems to have. At the Monoprix they’d be lined up along the wall while their owners shopped. I’d like to find one online so I can walk to the grocery store at home.
We found a very fun artisanal market off St. Antoine that we never found again. We checked every day for more than a week and it never appeared, even on the next Saturday. At the market we sampled and bought wines and champagne and talked to the owner of one of the vineyards. Bought delicious cheeses and, best of all, had a potato dish made in a giant copper vat. Sort of like au gratin potatoes made with remarkable cheese but a little more liquid. Heaven! The nearby fromagerie was making a similar dish in a copper vat outside their store that morning and the scent was incredible. Both were similar but with different types of cheese. At the market it was a harder cheese, fairly strong flavor, and at the fromagerie he was laying slices of a brie type cheese along the top. Yum. Perhaps this was national potato day or something as we hoped to find vats of cheesy potatoes every day after that and never did.
If anyone knows what the potato dish cooked outside in big, wide pots is called, or where I can find a recipe, my family will happily raise a glass to your wisdom!
That afternoon DH rested while the kids and I went shopping on the Rue de Rivoli. Wow! There were a LOT of shoppers! We checked out all the bigger stores, looked at the beatiful black coats on the racks and went to Sephora.
At Sephora I tried to test some Guerlain parfum on my wrist but, as the clerk explained, it wasn't perfume at all but lotion. All over the floor! LOL. Fortunately I'm not easily embarassed and we sniffed another perfume and scurried away, gathering up DS who was loitering outside. Apparently he'd been shoed away from his inside loitering spot (he's a 6' lanky teenage boy - they grow accustomed to that.)
Dinner that night was at Le Petit Picard at 42 R. St. Croix de la Bretonnerie. I’d read about it on Fodors and it was good. You share tables. Our table mates were two gentlemen from Spain who helped us order the warm chocolate cake (delicious) for dessert. Our son was exhausted so he stayed home (probably still full of potatoes.)
Jan 30th, 2007, 08:49 AM
#13
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 951
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"Perhaps this was national potato day or something as we hoped to find vats of cheesy potatoes every day after that and never did."
rosetravels- That is a fabulous line and pretty much sums up my fantasy vacation-finding vats of cheesy potatoes everywhere I go!
Loving your report and can't wait for more!
rosetravels- That is a fabulous line and pretty much sums up my fantasy vacation-finding vats of cheesy potatoes everywhere I go!
Loving your report and can't wait for more!
Jan 30th, 2007, 08:55 AM
#14
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,699
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Rose,
Very interesting report.
I think that this is a pretty good link for "Aligot"
www.toomanychefs.net/archives/001250.php
Very interesting report.
I think that this is a pretty good link for "Aligot"
www.toomanychefs.net/archives/001250.php
Jan 30th, 2007, 09:49 AM
#20
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Maybe StCirq. When rosetravels mentioned the giant copper vat, it reminded me of this: http://flickr.com/photos/barce/295257012/
