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Driving-Pays Basque (Ainhoa) to Carcassonne to Cadaques- Where to stop?

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Driving-Pays Basque (Ainhoa) to Carcassonne to Cadaques- Where to stop?

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Old Jun 17th, 2009, 07:08 PM
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Driving-Pays Basque (Ainhoa) to Carcassonne to Cadaques- Where to stop?

Hi! Thanks to all who helped me with my itinerary in northern Spain and southwest France!

After a stay in San Sebastian and in Ainhoa in the Pays Basque, we will then drive to the Carcassonne area for a quick overnight before heading down to a wedding in Cadaques. Where would be a good pit stop for lunch on the long-ish drive from Ainhoa to Carcassonne? Preferably a small town we could visit for an hour or two. ( It looks like the drive is approx. 4 hours according to the Michelin guide using the most direct route). Also, the same question for the drive from Carcassonne to Cadaques- any interesting places to stop for lunch or a visit along the way?

Thanks to you all- I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge of the area.
Kristen
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Old Jun 17th, 2009, 08:13 PM
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Which Carcassonne are you referring to? The one on the Costa Brava is quite a drive from Ainhoa, but can be done overnight.
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Old Jun 17th, 2009, 08:51 PM
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There is no Carcassonne on the Costa Brava.

Depending on when you depart Ainhoa (are you staying at the Hotel Iturria?), it will probably be much too early for a lunch in Pau or in Jurançon. So I'd probably stop for lunch in the Toulouse area, maybe beyond Toulouse in the "cassoulet" town of Castelnaudary, about a 3 hr. 30 min. drive from Ainhoa. I don't have a specific reco for lunch, but I'm sure other posters will.

From Carcassonne to Cadaqués, I'd certainly make a stop in the charming town of Céret. If you have time, please pay a visit to the wonderful Fine Arts Museum with its great collection of Fauvists and an impressive tauromaquia ceramics collection of Picasso.
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Old Jun 17th, 2009, 09:53 PM
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You could have lunch at Auberge du Poids Public in the pretty town of Saint-Félix de Lauraguais, South of Toulouse.
I would avoid "cassoulet' in summer, it is really a winter dish and can be very heavy in hot weather .....

Abbaye de Fontfroide after Lezignan, Collioure after Perpignan and - as Maribel suggests - Céret, are worth a stop during the second leg of your trip.
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 09:31 AM
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Hi Pvoyageuse,
I knew you'd come through with a great restaurant rec. I, too, would avoid a summer cassoulet, but my husband will eat it anytime! He claims to have tasted his best cassoulet ever at the Hotel Ithurria in Ainhoa!
(pacific6, that's why I asked if that's where you're staying in Ainhoa)

I was going to mention Chez Ruffet in Jurançon, south of Pau, but you'll pass by there too early for lunch, since Ainhoa is about an hr. 30 min. away. Pvoyageuse's rec sounds just perfect (plan to use it myself!)


I think you're traveling in Sept., correct? Forgot to mention Collioure, which if you have time, would be much nicer and less crowded. If you're attending an evening wedding, you'd have time to stop at both and the Abbaye as well.
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 09:44 AM
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No suggestion but wanted to tell you that we stayed in
Ainhoa at the Hotel Ithurria. Wonderful!
(the house rose wine is a Rioja. I wish I had saved the label.
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 09:44 AM
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Definitely stop in Collioure. If you do like the notion of cassoulet (and I'll eat it any time of year, too!), or even if you don't, try Le Tirou in Castelnaudary.
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 09:47 AM
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Thanks so much for the information! Yes, we are indeed staying at the Hotel Ithurria in Ainhoa, and I'm really looking forward to the restaurant there!

You guys are great- I appreciate all of your recommendations! We were planning on Collioure as a potential stopover- glad you agree!
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 09:56 AM
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cigalechanta,
I remembered that you had stayed at the Ithurria! What a wonderful spot it is in this beautiful town and what a charming, lovely decorated dining room.

pacific6, you'l be in really good hands there with the Isabal family. Be sure to try the local Irouléguy wines too, to accompany their fabulous Basque cuisine.

What a nice trip you're going to have!
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 11:18 AM
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Another route would be to drive from Carcassonne to Quillan and visit a couple of Cathar castles (Puylaurens and/or/Queribus/Peyrepertuse) on your way to Perpignan via Saint-Paul-de-Fenouillet and Estagel.

Maribel : s stop in restaurant La Pierre-Lys in Quillan is a must ....
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 11:36 AM
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You guys are amazing! Thank you! It is indeed going to be a lovely trip.

can I ask the same question for the route between Cadaques and Barcelona? Any places to stop for lunch or great stops along the way?
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 11:45 AM
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Stop in Girona and have lunch at "El Celler de Can Roca"
Carretera de Taialá, 40 17007 Gérone (Gérone)
Tél. +34 972222157 / Tél. Réservations +34 972222157 / Fax +34 972485259
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 11:47 AM
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pacific6,
Will you be doing this drive in one day, after the wedding? Do you prefer city stops or medieval towns? Can you make a couple of stops?

O.K. Pvoyageuse. You're making me hungry! I have them both duly noted with a pink market on my Michelin France Atlas and in my Pudlo!
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 11:51 AM
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Yes- we'll be driving from Cadaques to Barcelona after the wedding in one day (three days in Cadaques and then three days in Barcelona before heading home!)
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 11:57 AM
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The Celler de Can Roca has been proclaimed by some gourmet critics lately as "the second best restaurant" in Spain after El Bulli.

But if you don't want to spend quite that much (80 p.p. plus wine) on your meal, near Girona,
there's another country place that we just love. I recommended it on another thread.

It's La Plaça
in the very pretty (not touristy) medieval village of Madremanya, just 6 km. away (exit 6 off the A 7). Housed in a restored masía, the chef owner also gives cooking classes, and it's also an inn. Great, great food, but it doesn't open for lunch during the week-only on weekends. That would work for you if you're driving down on a Sunday.

We always reserve.
Phone: 972 490 487
About 40 euros p.p.

www.laplacamadremanya.com/
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 11:59 AM
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Among your many choices are fascinating and historically important greek ruins, the fascinating, multi-layered Catalonian city of Vic, the inward and totally untouristy town of Castello d'Empuries, or the beautiful rural foothills of Catalonia filled with gourmet restaurants.

My advice would be not to combine a lot of stops. Pick a gem and enjoy it. I would want something not set up for tourists, and that got me closer to historic Catalonia.
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 12:02 PM
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And we would probably just rather make one stop- there is so much we want to see in Barcelona that I want to make sure we maximize our time there. But I love medieval towns- we're spending quite a bit of time in cities, so smaller places (but not too out of the way) sound best.
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 12:04 PM
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Will you be driving down on a Sunday?

If so, the Celler de Can Roca closes on Sun.


O.K. Pvoyageuse,
While I have my France Michelin atlas out, is there anything else that I should highlight with my pink marker in the Céret area?
We've dined at Le Relais des Trois Mas (La Balette) in Collioure and loved it.
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 12:19 PM
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We'll be driving on a Wednesday, unfortunately- La Placa sounds amazing!
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Old Jun 18th, 2009, 12:40 PM
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Maribel :

La Terrasse au Soleil, in Céret, but I haven't been in a long time. Used to be excellent.
L'Amadeus in Argelès-sur-Mer
L'Auberge du Roua in Argelès-sur-mer
La Littorine, in Banyuls sur Mer
Ma Maison, in Sorède
Chez Pujol, in Port-Vendres (simple, excellent seafood and fish)
Off the beaten track : L'ancienne Ecole in Palau-del-Vidre (simple, in the former village school)
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