frencharmoire

I have been planning to take a day from Porto to have lunch along the Douro river wine country. I originally thought I would either go by train or boat, but now am having second thoughts (certainly about the boat trip). I would like a nice lunch with good traditional food and wine (and thus, don't want to drive), but am now worrying that all the towns that are easy to reach without a car so much cater to tourists that my chances of getting a good meal are next to nil. Am I wrong?

Any guidance would be welcome, although I don't want to take a professional guided tour. I'm not set on the idea of going to the Douro area. It looks lovely in pictures, but my main interest in traveling is experiencing a different culture, and would prefer not spend my time in places where foreign tourism is dominating.

This trip would be in Sept/Oct, on a weekday (which might help cut down on tourist traffic). I have been to Portugal once before and was very taken with its unique culture, its hospitable people and the variety of its food and wine, so I would like to expand on those experiences, rather than check off a tourist box. On the other hand, if it makes for a dreamy easy day trip from Porto and you know of a good unspoiled traditional restaurant, I'm all ears.

Robert2016

In Régua (Peso da Régua), the center of the Baixo Corgo of the Douro appellation, we've had excellent traditional meals (non-touristy) at Castas e Pratos. There's also the Douro In--both in town.

http://castasepratos.com
http://www.cntraveller.com/guides/eu...y/where-to-eat


And don't forget to see the excellent Douro Museum, Museu do Douro in Régua. It even has a restaurant with a very inexpensive lunch menu.
http://www.museudodouro.pt

frencharmoire

Thank you for taking the time to answer my query and give guidance. Both the restaurants you highlighted seem rather modern and Michelin-y, and I was rather imagining more rustic fare. What traditional dishes did you have at Castas e Pratos?

Looking at the Conde Nast list, I'm wondering if maybe some of those places are reachable by taxi from a train station or dock. Do you know?

Thanks again.

rialtogrl

In April I had two excellent meals at Veladouro in Pinhao.

https://www.facebook.com/BarRestauranteVeladouro/

It was on the rustic side with traditional dishes (including fantastic bacalao.) There were certainly tourists in there, but also a lot of locals.

Robert2016

I don't have access to our restaurant check right now, but I know that I ordered polvo (octopus) and I think my companion order the cabrito.

Castas e Pratos, inside an old rail station warehouse, doesn't serve rustic fare but instead updated Portuguese cuisine.


For rustic (as in very traditional) fare in Pinhão, I would second the recommendation of Veladouro.

Whathello

You'l lfind a lot of cruises organized in Lisbon - they go with a boat and coime back by train. It will be touristy though, but you'll be on the Douro.

We went by car and ate in Porto. We visited the Matteus castle, I loved it - we were alone and it is charming (full of money but charming, the family even bought the body of a saint to go faster to heaven - can you imagine that ? You negociate the body of a saint with the church ? This and dozens of relics).

frencharmoire

Thanks to you both for the added suggestion of Veladouro. Looking a pictures of plates of food on Tripadvisor, it is very much what I had in mind. I've really nothing against modern Portuguese restaurants, but I am thinking I will be eating in several in Porto, so for an excursion to the countryside, might be nice to have something very traditional to the locale.

My point of departure for this excursion is Porto, where I will be for several days running. Maybe I'll opt to go by boat and return by train.

As I girl I was raised in a church with all kinds of schemes for getting into heaven. Buying the body of a saint sounds like one of the easier options!

Thanks again.

Sberg

Do not miss the Douro! It will be well worth your trip. It is spectacular and although you may find some tourists it is by no means over run with them. We were there in August and saw very few. If you are there in early September you might catch some of the harvest. We missed it by a few weeks but can't wait to go back!

frencharmoire

Yes, thank you for that endorsement/encouragement!

Good lord willing, if creek don't rise, etc....

lreynold1

I know this is hard for people to do if they are based in Porto, but for my money the best part of the Douro is the part east of Pinhao. There is a little chug chug train that goes from Regua, stops in Pinhao, and continues on to the end of the line in Pocinho. The driver gets out, stretches his legs and has a drink in a cafe, and then gets back on and you return to Pinhao. It takes probably 2 1/2 -3 hours total. It's a part of the Douro inaccessible by road, so all that lines the river are the train tracks. Really beautiful.

If there's any way for you to get out of Porto and spend a night in the Douro near Pinhao or Regua (there are many beautiful places up in the vineyards), spending a morning or afternoon on the train is a really wonderful activity. I've probably done it three or four times now and enjoy it every time.