Dordogne Itinerary Help
Jun 26th, 2006, 11:44 AM
#1
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Dordogne Itinerary Help
I have read and re-read all the posts about the Dordogne, and I still am confused as to where to spend our time. I have a few books and have sketched out an itinerary, but I know it needs your expert help!
We plan to spend about 10 days in this region and will be taking the train to Bordeaux from Paris amd picking up a car.
1 or 2 nights in Bordeaux area (Relais Hauterive)
2 nights Brantome (Hotel Moulin du Roc)
4 nights either Tremolat (Le Vieux Logis) or Lacave (Chateau de la Treyne)
That leaves us a couple of nights that we can go somewhere else or add to the places I have mentioned. From our last stop, we need to take the train back to Paris from somewhere in the area....any ideas?
I welcome any suggestions!
We plan to spend about 10 days in this region and will be taking the train to Bordeaux from Paris amd picking up a car.
1 or 2 nights in Bordeaux area (Relais Hauterive)
2 nights Brantome (Hotel Moulin du Roc)
4 nights either Tremolat (Le Vieux Logis) or Lacave (Chateau de la Treyne)
That leaves us a couple of nights that we can go somewhere else or add to the places I have mentioned. From our last stop, we need to take the train back to Paris from somewhere in the area....any ideas?
I welcome any suggestions!
Jun 26th, 2006, 12:26 PM
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Hi gl,
I suggest that you take the TGV to Libourne and pick up your car there. It's about 15 min longer on the highway, but saves getting out of Bordeaux and its traffic.
Are there compelling reasons for picking Brantome and Tremolat?
>From our last stop, we need to take the train back to Paris from somewhere in the area....any ideas?
Return the car in Libourne.
I suggest that you take the TGV to Libourne and pick up your car there. It's about 15 min longer on the highway, but saves getting out of Bordeaux and its traffic.
Are there compelling reasons for picking Brantome and Tremolat?
>From our last stop, we need to take the train back to Paris from somewhere in the area....any ideas?
Return the car in Libourne.
Jun 26th, 2006, 12:45 PM
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I concur with ira that picking up a car in Libourne is far easier than Bordeaux. You can also take the train from Bordeaux to Périgueux and pick up a car there, saving you two hours of driving on what is one of the most dangerous (though scenic) roads in France.
Brantôme's nice, but not worth that big a detour, IMO. And neither Trémolat nor Lacave really makes an ideal base. You want to be closer to Sarlat, in the Domme/Beynac/La Roque-Gageac/St-Cyprien/Le Bugue/Montignac area or even south of the river around Castelnaud or Daglan or St-Pompon. And there's no point in hopping around changing hotels. Just settle in for 4-5 days and wander around the area by day.
Brantôme's nice, but not worth that big a detour, IMO. And neither Trémolat nor Lacave really makes an ideal base. You want to be closer to Sarlat, in the Domme/Beynac/La Roque-Gageac/St-Cyprien/Le Bugue/Montignac area or even south of the river around Castelnaud or Daglan or St-Pompon. And there's no point in hopping around changing hotels. Just settle in for 4-5 days and wander around the area by day.
Jun 26th, 2006, 12:53 PM
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Hi StCirq,
>..saving you two hours of driving on what is one of the most dangerous (though scenic) roads in France.<
We drove Beynac to Libourne via Bergerac and the D936.
Were we on a different road, or did we luck out?
>..saving you two hours of driving on what is one of the most dangerous (though scenic) roads in France.<
We drove Beynac to Libourne via Bergerac and the D936.
Were we on a different road, or did we luck out?
Jun 26th, 2006, 01:19 PM
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St Cirq, I remember those chilling markers on that road...that image sticks with me even after 4 years. I've not seen them anywhere else and wonder about their origin.... I thought that route was a real slog, not enjoyable at all.
Jun 26th, 2006, 01:35 PM
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Thanks for your replies to my post.
I try to avoid dangerous drives at all costs, so I am sure we will want to pick up our car in Perigeux to avoid that drive.
We have more than 4 or 5 days? The Perigord is a large area...any other ideas?
I try to avoid dangerous drives at all costs, so I am sure we will want to pick up our car in Perigeux to avoid that drive.
We have more than 4 or 5 days? The Perigord is a large area...any other ideas?
Jun 26th, 2006, 02:10 PM
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Hi StCirq,
>Didn't you notice all the little death markers on the sides of the road -
OK. As far as I could tell, there were about the same number per mile as we have between Madison and Athens, GA.
Of course, Athens is a college town.
>Didn't you notice all the little death markers on the sides of the road -
OK. As far as I could tell, there were about the same number per mile as we have between Madison and Athens, GA.
Of course, Athens is a college town.
Jun 26th, 2006, 02:16 PM
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We just got back from 2 weeks in France, including 4 nights at a chambre d'hote near Sarlat. It was a good base for visiting Font de Gaume and other attractions in the Vezere (sp?) River valley, as well as touring Beynac and other beauty spots in the Dordogne river valley. Sarlat is an interesting little city too, and apparently has a good market, though we didn't go. My husband's a wine lover, so we took a day to go to St. Emilion, which was a two hour or so drive. Or you could tour Peche de Merle and other sights in the Lot River Valley. It's gorgeous country.
Jun 26th, 2006, 02:26 PM
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We just returned from the Dordogne and found that the Sarlat area was an ideal base for all the places you mention except Bordeaux and Brantome. It's easy to get to Tremolat or Lacave from Sarlat but Brantome is quite far. There is much more to see and do around Sarlat than Brantome. I'd recommend that you stay in or near Sarlat for a week, perhaps rent a house like we did, rather than move every couple of days.
Le Vieux Logis in Tremolat is lovely, however. You might not want to leave the grounds if you stayed there! We had the most wonderful set lunch there one day. I'll include pictures when I file my report. Be sure to look at the school/mairie across from le Vieux Logis and watch the film "le Boucher" set in the town and area.
Le Vieux Logis in Tremolat is lovely, however. You might not want to leave the grounds if you stayed there! We had the most wonderful set lunch there one day. I'll include pictures when I file my report. Be sure to look at the school/mairie across from le Vieux Logis and watch the film "le Boucher" set in the town and area.
Jun 26th, 2006, 05:40 PM
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It sounds as if the Tremolat area is not the best location for seeing the Perigord Noir...but after some great reviews I have read, I would love to stay at Le Vieux Logis or Chateau de la Treyne. How far out of the way are these hotels for touring the area?
Jun 26th, 2006, 05:52 PM
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glsebs:
This is of course just my opinion (but it's the opinion of someone who's had a house in the Périgord Noir for 15 years and spent loads and loads of time there), but Trémolat is an OK town, but really dead. There's very little commerce there, and it's not that pretty compared to its companions upriver. The Vieux Logis is just one of dozens of beautiful properties in the Dordogne, many of them much better situated for touring and in much livelier, more interesting surroundings. And personally, I find the place stuffy and stultifying - full of Scotsmen with kilts and terriers wandering the mancured gardens in the high season. The restaurant is very good, but so are dozens of others.
Are you willing to consider other options? There are many....
This is of course just my opinion (but it's the opinion of someone who's had a house in the Périgord Noir for 15 years and spent loads and loads of time there), but Trémolat is an OK town, but really dead. There's very little commerce there, and it's not that pretty compared to its companions upriver. The Vieux Logis is just one of dozens of beautiful properties in the Dordogne, many of them much better situated for touring and in much livelier, more interesting surroundings. And personally, I find the place stuffy and stultifying - full of Scotsmen with kilts and terriers wandering the mancured gardens in the high season. The restaurant is very good, but so are dozens of others.
Are you willing to consider other options? There are many....
Jun 26th, 2006, 06:24 PM
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I am definitely willing to consider other options....especially from someone who lives in the area. When I travel, I love to see all an area has to offer, but to me an important part of that experience is staying at a lovely property...it does not have to be a Relais and Chateaux. We have stayed at some wonderful ones, and we have also stayed at some that were disappointing.
I would welcome any suggestions and appreciate your taking the time to help. I don't know how we planned trips before the internet and the "Fodors" forums.
I would welcome any suggestions and appreciate your taking the time to help. I don't know how we planned trips before the internet and the "Fodors" forums.
Jun 26th, 2006, 07:15 PM
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Hi there, again:
What's your concept of a lovely property? Quaint and chintzy? Good-quality bathrobes and fine soaps in a marble bathroom? Beautiful grounds?Modern and sleek? Price range?
I'm sure we can find something for you if you detail your accommodation desires a bit. You don't have to worry about restaurants. You won't be wanting for foie gras and truffles no matter what part of the area you're in.
What's your concept of a lovely property? Quaint and chintzy? Good-quality bathrobes and fine soaps in a marble bathroom? Beautiful grounds?Modern and sleek? Price range?
I'm sure we can find something for you if you detail your accommodation desires a bit. You don't have to worry about restaurants. You won't be wanting for foie gras and truffles no matter what part of the area you're in.
Jun 27th, 2006, 05:26 AM
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St Cirq
Well that is a tough one. A lovely property could be anything from a 5 star hotel like the Meurice in Paris to a wonderful B and B style hotel like the Mansion in Sonoma Valley. And of course it is very subjective as well...just read "Trip Advisor"
It does not have to be luxurious with a marble bathroom, however, it should have charm and be meticulously cared for....no stained carpeting and soiled upholstery!! And just as important, it should have hospitable and welcoming service.
Thanks again for helping me plan this trip.
Well that is a tough one. A lovely property could be anything from a 5 star hotel like the Meurice in Paris to a wonderful B and B style hotel like the Mansion in Sonoma Valley. And of course it is very subjective as well...just read "Trip Advisor"
It does not have to be luxurious with a marble bathroom, however, it should have charm and be meticulously cared for....no stained carpeting and soiled upholstery!! And just as important, it should have hospitable and welcoming service.
Thanks again for helping me plan this trip.
Jun 27th, 2006, 01:20 PM
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Please St Cirq can I ask you to try the Vieux Logis again????????? I know we disagree on this restaurant, but there is a new young chef who is doing wonderful things. The last time we were there for their 32 euros prix fixe 'tasting menu' we had, all tiny courses, but all wonderful:
boudin Noir ‘cigar’
savoury cake with olive and onions
cheese breadsticks
Scrambled eggs with asparagus and crème fraiche served in an eggshell
carpaccio of fresh asparagus
mousse of langoustine with celeriac
bouillon of langoustine
foie gras with tuille on a stick
baby cone of foie gras mousse
lobster with foam
veal and a crispy sweetbread and asparagus on potato mash
layered cup of strawberries with strawberry sorbet and mascarpone with lemon zest
chocolate mousse with nougat, topped with white chocolate cream
chocolate drink with spices
madeleines (and strange pink marshmallow thing)
peach drink
We have been there three times this season, and each time the menu has been different, but always just as good. The friend with whom we went last time a Cordon Bleu graduate said 'Don’t just recommend people come here TELL them to come.'
And not a kilt in the room.
boudin Noir ‘cigar’
savoury cake with olive and onions
cheese breadsticks
Scrambled eggs with asparagus and crème fraiche served in an eggshell
carpaccio of fresh asparagus
mousse of langoustine with celeriac
bouillon of langoustine
foie gras with tuille on a stick
baby cone of foie gras mousse
lobster with foam
veal and a crispy sweetbread and asparagus on potato mash
layered cup of strawberries with strawberry sorbet and mascarpone with lemon zest
chocolate mousse with nougat, topped with white chocolate cream
chocolate drink with spices
madeleines (and strange pink marshmallow thing)
peach drink
We have been there three times this season, and each time the menu has been different, but always just as good. The friend with whom we went last time a Cordon Bleu graduate said 'Don’t just recommend people come here TELL them to come.'
And not a kilt in the room.
Jun 27th, 2006, 01:52 PM
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When are you going? We are leaving for France tomorrow and are staying in Vieux Logis, Brantome, Domme, Salignac, Conques..... so we'll be able to give you specific details about hotels when we get back on 10th July if you are interested.
Jun 27th, 2006, 02:43 PM
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