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Old May 28th, 2011, 12:38 AM
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Day trips and sites in Umbria

Two weeks from today we will be heading back to Italy for 4 weeks of fun and adventure. For the first 10 days we will be staying in Assisi where we have a friend who owns a hotel and restaurant.

I went to school in Assisi for 5 weeks in 2001 so I know the immediate area pretty well. What we are looking for are recommendations on little, out of the way places that will make great day trips. Here is what we have so far...

Spello
Spoleto
Montefalco & Bevagna
Arezzo
Cortona
Lake Trasimeno - Castiglione or Passignano?
Hiking Monte Subasio
Hiking to and from Costa di Trex
(We have visited Todi, Perugia and Gubbio in the past)

Other than Montefalco & Bevagna, can any two of these locations be managed in one day?

What is the best strategy for seeing Lake Trasimeno in one day?

What gems are we missing that may be better options?

Recommendations on restaurants and tours (wine, tartufo, ceramics, etc.) are also welcome.

Thank you in advance...Jim
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Old May 28th, 2011, 02:59 AM
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The seldom-visited ruins of Carsulae - just north of San Gemini - are certainly worth a visit imho.

Ian
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Old May 28th, 2011, 03:23 AM
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Jim, you may enjoy watching the 2003 film MY HOUSE IN UMBRIA starring Maggie Smith - great scenery of the area including a day trip to Siena.
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Old May 28th, 2011, 06:09 AM
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For tips,suggestions, and off the beaten track information for your visit to Umbria, check out my blog at http://www.brigolante.com/en/blog/

Enjoy Umbria!
Rebecca
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Old May 28th, 2011, 06:50 AM
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Given that one's responses to things are so personal, here's my take on the places we visited over the course of 2 trips to that area. Please please please read on your own and see how you feel before taking my word! Also, I was having some breathing issues, and we mostly took trains and busses so that will color my descriptions and I won't have any parking info:

Spello-We "trained" here from our Spoleto base. Unmanned station so have your 2-way ticket. A sweet hill town. Not a difficult or long walk from train station to summit. There is an awesome flower show in the summer. We spent a very nice 3/4 day here with a slow pace and lunch with a lovely view.

Spoleto-A great favorite and our base. It has a gorgeous Duomo, an excellent viaduct, hilltop fort, amphitheater, popular market area and many places to explore. Big summer music festival-may be on when you are there. Much more strenuous walking than Spello. We stayed at Hotel Clitunno and absolutely loved it. Shabby elegance. Top notch resto on-site and family owned. Hub and I loved this place.

Montefalco & Bevagna-missed these

Arezzo: We trained here from Perugia (another wonderful base) and spent slightly less than one day. Amazingly decorated church, antiques area (was under construction). Easy walk to upper part of town where cathedrale was closed. Interesting Casa Vasari. Would have spent more time if we'd gone to its medieval museum.

Cortona-missed this

Lake Trasimeno - Castiglione or Passignano?: From Perugia we took a bus to Passignano and ferry to lace island but were too early in the season for it to be open. The bus turned out to be a local so it took forever and we only got 1/2 day there. Perugians said Castiglione good to visit also. I can't say for sure but maybe a full day for both if you are driving. Bus we took was too convoluted.

Hiking Monte Subasio-missed
Hiking to and from Costa di Trex-missed
(We have visited Todi, Perugia and Gubbio in the past)-Loved Perugia and Gubbio lots. Todi we hit at siesta so missed its vibe.

What is the best strategy for seeing Lake Trasimeno in one day?-Take a car!

Places you didn't mention:

We went to the upper part of Deruta and had lots of fun. Bussed to lower, ok up-hill walk to upper town. Interesting pottery museum and lots of pottery studios. Driving there would be more convenient. My hub held his breath as I looked at all the pottery-it was expensive.

Montelcino was very nice. 1/2 day with driver. Much wine culture. We basically looked at the fort, cringed at price of sending home wine and ate a super lunch. Strolled a bit. Other Fodorites and your reading can give you more info.

I wouldn't want to miss Montepulciano. This was our other 1/2 day part with driver (easiest) and it is sweet. Gorgeous country-side. Lovely main square.

We had an hour to kill (long train story) in Foligno and it has a nice main square and an art scene from what we could see in so short a time.

You didn't mention Orvieto but I'll bet you've been there. Took funicular from train station. Very easy for me to navigate as it's flat once you get there! Awesome duomo and enjoyable 1/2 day stroll.

Did you go to Trevi? I have a great photo of it but we didn't make it. Another place I'm drawing a blank on the name but it's eroding and there are only a few folks remaining. Someone will remember.

Hope this helps and have a super trip.
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Old May 28th, 2011, 07:55 AM
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I love exploring the area around Norcia and the Piano Grande. Hiking in the area is excellent. If you visit, be sure to have lunch at Taverna Castelluccio in the small village of Castelluccio, located in the Piano Grande. Outstanding and fresh local food-

http://www.tavernacastelluccio.it/

I have found this guidebook excellent for exploring Umbria. It contains good info and driving/city/town itineraries-

http://www.amazon.com/Umbria-Heritag.../dp/8836528376

I also like using the Rough Guide Tuscany & Umbria.

I enjoyed a sunny day starting in Passignano, taking the public boat to Isola Maggiore (hiking and exploring the small island) and then taking the public boat to Castiglione, exploring the town. However, I would swap that day in a heartbeat for a day in the Norcia/Piano Grande area.

Trevi is a very nice visit. The day I was there I felt like I was the only visitor. The guidebook I reference above has a nice walking itinerary for the town.

Enjoy your trip!
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Old May 28th, 2011, 10:49 AM
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Stop in Trevi, a charming small hill town, on the way to Spoleto.
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Old May 29th, 2011, 07:18 AM
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You can get a direct train from Assisi to Passignano, and then take ferries across to the Isola San Michele and another on to Castiglione. But if your friends have a car, that would undoubtedly be easier and give you more options.
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Old May 29th, 2011, 08:09 PM
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We will be staying in Spello from June 20 to July 2. The Infiorata in Spello takes place the weekend of June 25 and 26 this year. Sounds like you will be in the area at this time. Try to make it.

A side trip that has been suggested to us is to visit the Abbey in San Pietro in Valle in the Valnerina.
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Old May 30th, 2011, 02:44 PM
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San Pietro in Valle is very beautiful and not difficult to reach.

And don't miss Montefalco and Bevagna, both are hidden gems especially if you're interested at all in historic churches, Roman mosaics and great art.
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Old May 30th, 2011, 05:13 PM
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I always recommend Carsulae as well. It's seldom mentioned on here but if you are a fan of ancient history it's a fabulous site to visit and not too far from Spoleto.

I also really enjoyed both Deruta and Trevi.
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 03:15 AM
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We wish to thank everyone for the great information and ideas you shared. It will make our trip to Umbria that much more enjoyable. When we first started getting comments it occurred to us that we should have mentioned that we would not be leasing a car but would be using public transportation...which we enjoy as part of our trips. Now we are thankful we did not because you have shared with us so many ideas we can use for next year's trip.

latedaytraveler - We have ordered My House in Umbria from Netflix and it should be here sometime today. Thank you.

Brigolante - What a wonderful website about Umbria with a wealth of information that cannot be found anywhere else. A real find for us that we will use for years to come.

TDudette - Thank you for all the detail and the how-to for easing into the hill towns. We are from Florida...therefore we are flatlanders. No matter how much we work-out the hills still get us the first week. Based on your recommendations, and the many that followed, we are adding Trevi and Deruta to our list of day trips. Yes, we have done Orvieto a few times in the past and I do believe the small city you are trying to remember is Civita' di Bagnoregio is it not? An enchanting little place that is a perfect daytrip from Orvieto. We will be doing a daytrip to Montepulciano but from Siena later in the trip.

zoecat - We had researched the Norcia and Piano Grande and will be adding that to a future trip. We decided we would need more time and a car to make that visit meaningful. Perhaps next year.

Noncomformist - Your recommended itinerary for Lake Trasimeno is likely what we will follow. Doing it by public transport may prove to be a little challenging but that is part of the fun, no?

iamq - We will be in the same area at about the same time as you. I believe I had commented on that in response to a question on Assisi. The Abby looks intriguing but it will be a little far-a-field for us without a car. Unfortunately we will not be in the Spello area in late June as we begin to head for points north on June 22. But who knows, our paths may cross.

Ian & tcreath - the ruins of Carsulae are in our plans for next year thanks to you along with the Abbey in San Pietro in Valle thanks to sacc and iamq.

Just 4 more days and we are off for a month in Italy! Thank you everyone.

Jim & Lorin
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 04:54 AM
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I'll be looking forward to your reports We're spending two weeks outside of Spoleto in September. We'll have a car. We're currently devouring all the books and websites we can find on the area, but know that we'll want to have a couple days where we just sit in the garden and enjoy the views. Probably while doing laundry.
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 05:52 AM
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You are welcome and yes, Civita' di Bagnoregio is it!

From post cards we saw in Spello, the floral "pictures" are done on the streets and are very beautiful.

Have a super trip. Can't wait to read your report!
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