my photos are posted online and here is the link:
http://picasaweb.google.com/denisewadamson/ParisChristmas201003?authkey=Gv1sRgCPf5q5bBvau4Vw#
I can't believe it has come and gone but our trip was wonderful and here is the report. It is long but I had lots to talk about!!
Are we there yet? Tuesday, December 21
Well, the flight over from Atlanta was fine and then we landed…no gate. So we literally “drove” around CDG to get to an open gate and well, yep, you guessed it…couldn’t get the door open, or the jetway working but we couldn’t get off the plane!! We were on the ground for an hour before we got off the plane. Come on, man (for your Monday Night Countdown fans 
.
So passport control, baggage and getting a cab was easy…finally, we are on our way. Well, not quite. The cab ride took over an hour and a half to get to the hotel and I thought Atlanta traffic was awful! And, the driver decided to listen to his Michael Jackson collection on the way. Now, I like a little MJ every now and then, but an hour and a half of the King o’ Pop is a bit much. Well, but then as we are inching our way to the 6th, we crossed the Seine and were sitting in traffic right by Notre Dame. So, our spirits are lifted and we are enjoying the “spectacularness” of it all, and my husband looks over and sees the guy in the car next to us picking his nose. He says to me, “ the most magnificent piece of architecture probably anywhere, and there’s an a@*hole picking his nose in front of it”. I nearly peed in my pants laughing! We were checking into our hotel 15 minutes later. Finally, we are there.
Now, the trip has begun!
We checked into our tiny little room, unpacked a few things and took off for our first few bites of that fabulous food. We have heard so much about the movement of some great chefs to open small casual restaurants with amazing food. (No more rules, no worrying about Michelin stars, less stuffy) We had heard we had to go to Le Comptoir at Relais Saint Germain to experience it…Le Comptoir (3 Carrefour de le Odeon, 75006) just happens to be steps away from our hotel and during the Christmas period serving from 11am to midnight without reservations (which we heard otherwise, are tough to get). So we went. We got right in and it was as good as advertised. Housemade saucisson that was terrific, a little bit of cheese, plancha de Jambon and some champagne. It was really great and we made it through with our terrible travel French.
Next up, the Christmas market at St. Sulpice. A little vin chaud, some more samples of homemade sausages…all great! We were so full and there was some really great looking Alsatian sausages and potatoes that we didn’t get to and I wish we had. It was a great little market and we wandered through a few shops, took some photos of Christmas windows and then over to the market at St. Germain des Pres with more good looking treats. We also took a look at the church, which I had never gone in. It is very pretty and comfortable…it is not full of grandeur but it is lovely. Off to Le Danton (106 Blvd St Germain, 75006), back close to our hotel for drinks (OK, lots of drinks). We stood at the counter and the gentleman who waited on us was also very nice to us (and tolerated our really bad French)! We really enjoyed it and found ourselves going back there a lot for drinks and coffee. Right at the corner of Blvd St Germain and Rue Conde, steps from the Odeon metro station, it’s a great spot in a great location. After MANY glasses of champagne, we ended our first night with a crepe (apple compote) from L’avant Comptoir (part of Le Comptoir). A great first day!!
The most important meal of the day- Wednesday, December 22
For me, Paris is all about the pastries. I am a sweets lover and if you can incorporate something sweet into your diet and call it “petit dejeuner”, well, then, I’m on board. Well, again, our location was just terrific and Gerard Mulot (76 rue de Seine) was a stone’s throw away from out hotel (poor me)! So, a pain au chocolat to start my day (that’s what I call, the breakfast of champions). And the shop is beautiful and I regret, that I couldn’t sample everything there. Truly beautiful, works of art…chocolates, tarts, buche de Noels, all drool worthy. The shop was also decked out for Christmas and has those cool glass doors that open automatically…tres chic and tres Star Trek.
The saddest thing about my trip (besides the fact that it did end and I am back living in Atlanta and not Paris) is that there was a Starbucks right by the hotel. I adore my husband, but he had to have Starbucks every day! So not Parisian! So, we got our pastry at Gerard Mulot and his coffee (a venti, with two extra shots) at Starbucks. He would not budge on this. But, even they were nice and helped him figure out how to order it every day and pretended not to notice the outside pastries we brought in everyday. I bought a bottle of water, also to help them not notice the Gerard Mulot bag I was holding.
Now, Christmas shopping in Paris…really more like gawking and marveling at the shops and windows. Finally, another Paris item checked off my list Le Bon Marche….lovely store! I coulda spent forever at the perfume counters…they have everything and it is all beautiful. But, then the Grand Epicerie was calling. Yep, I took pictures of the Iberico Ham on the shank and the langoustines. It was packed (just a few days before Christmas) but it really is something to see and makes the local Kroger look even more pitiful to me now! 
Well, in all my drooling and shopping, I hadn’t bothered to notice where the cabs were and we hadn’t bought Metro tix yet and didn’t know which Metro stop was close to our lunch reservation. So we scrambled to find a cab and finally did. We had lunch at Aux Lyonnais (32 rue Saint Marc, 75002).
Very charming restaurant. Not much English spoken and the menus are in French. I am not sure if they had one in English but I didn’t ask. I was in Paris after all. I had no idea what most of the menu said, so we decided on Le Menu (my way of throwing caution to the wind). Turns, out we had this tasty appetizer that was chopped eggs in a vinaigrette over cabbage hearts. I would never have ordered this, had I known what it was but it was really good. So the second surprise, sweetbreads on artichoke hearts (also, wouldn’t have ordered it but was very good) and last, a piece of tart with pine nuts and a small scoop of ice cream (it was pink, very light and I have no clue what flavor is was). It was all good and felt “French”.
More shopping and wandering around. Galleries Lafayette was jammed packed!! Also hit Passages Vivienne which was really unique! A turn around Chanel and a quick glimpse of that famous mirrored staircase leading the Coco Chanel’s legendary apartment (I was almost giddy). I dream of being invited there! The weather was a little snowy, little drizzly but no problem. Quite cold and so, we decided to go back to Le Comptoir again.
They remembered us and got us a seat up front (under the best heater, ever). And dinner, well it was divine. The ultimate comfort foods…the most delicious lobster bisque I have EVER had. Not too thick, but it was soooo rich and flavorful. Go, get it, you will not be sorry. We had to have more of that house made saucisson! So good. Chaz got lamb that was wonderful and I got the best little crock of beef cheeks with carrots and pasta in the richest broth. They really know how to get the most flavor in a broth there! And, unlike the food here in many cases, it’s not salty but true flavor. Perfect cold weather food. And we waddled back to our hotel and called it a day.
Thursday, December 23
You know it started with pain au chocolat (and Starbucks . More shopping (Diptyque for candles) and checking out the ‘hood. A Chocolat Chaud. A late morning snack of a ham and gruyere crepe at L’Avant Comptoir (where you shouldn’t try to pay for a 4 euro crepe with a 50 euro bill). Then, Notre Dame (without the nose picker, this time). Snowing a lot! Very chilly. Finally, I saw Notre Dame…I love the gothic churches. It was beautiful, especially with snow.
It had been a while since I was on the Paris metro and after a slow start (couldn’t follow directions on the ticket machine, my bad). Then the train sat there (packed!) moved about 20 yards into the tunnel and stopped…now I am not claustrophobic, but I did not like that. Fortunately, we got going and it never happened again.
A late lunch at Le Souffle (36 rue de Mont Thabor, 75001)…which is just around the corner from Chanel (on rue Cambon). Let me just say that it may not be new cuisine, but no one loves a soufflé more than I do. I will almost always order one if it is on the menu. This is a small place and not much English is spoken and I really loved it! Did I mention, that I love soufflés? Chaz got ham and cheese, which was very good. But I got Roquefort and Walnut soufflé. Holy cow…was it good! Now, you know I also had to have a dessert soufflé and well, we just couldn’t possible expected to share, so Chaz got chocolate and I got Grand Marnier. A wonderful waiter there also brought the bottle over and was kind enough to leave it with me and encourage me to use the Grand Marnier liberally…he was very fun. So Chaz had a rich chocolate sauce on his and it was wonderful. Not too sweet, not bitter but just this amazing good chocolate taste that we don’t get with too many chocolate desserts here. I drizzled Grand Marnier over my soufflé every few bites. It was heaven! We also had a lovely French couple next to us who were very friendly to us.
We walked all over the Right Bank! Got a little Christmas tea at Hediard, mustard at Maille. More snowy, sleety weather. Probably the messiest day we had but it didn’t matter. We were in Paris…two days before Christmas…who cares? Baccarat had spectacular windows and was so pretty to see. We tried to have a drink at the Ritz but Bar Hemingway wasn’t open that early and Bar Vendome was full, so never mind. We went back out onto to Place Vendome and saw Lenny Kravitz in front of Cartier. We walked back to make sure it was him…we do not ask famous people for autographs and photos, so I can’t prove it. But, it was him. Back to our old haunt from last visit, Le Grand (Intercontinental). A glass of champagne at the bar there and it was a great place to hang out in. We enjoyed staying there and spent a lot time at the bar there before, so it was good to go back! We were waiting to go to the ballet at Opera Garnier that night.
If there is a building that is more beautiful and ornate that Opera Garnier, I haven’t seen it yet. OK, maybe the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles…but Opera Garnier is stunning. We were all over the place taking pictures and had amazing seats in this little box that an attendant has to open for you. I think there were only 6 seats there. (Fortunately, we were not booed and hissed at like Glenn Close’s character in Dangerous Liaisons was). The building was lovely, but modern ballet, well, that’s just not for us. We made it through two of three dances, but decided to leave at the intermission. I know this makes us sound uneducated, and we do enjoy traditional ballets, but I refuse to spend too much of my free time trying to enjoy and understand something that just seems weird! We did have a good laugh over it…a little like a Sprockets episode from Saturday Night Live. Plus, I was hungry again!
Here is where I would like to thank Ina Garten (Barefoot Contessa) for letting us in on her love for Marco Polo (8 rue de Conde, 75006). We went twice last time we were in Paris, which led us to the hotel we stayed in on this trip (Louis II) because it is right across the street. We thought on our last visit, how nice it would be to be right across from Marco Polo and right in the middle of everything we like to do…and so there we were. Staying at Hotel Louis II (2 rue St Sulpice, 75006)and eating again at Marco Polo. I know, Italian food, in Paris? I love Italian and you do need a break from the very rich French food occasionally. So thanks, Ina for sharing and you are my hero! I also dream of being invited to Ina’s for cocktails or dinner (I dream a lot).
They always squeeze us in there…and are very accommodating. I had a little grilled steak with parmesan over a green salad and Chaz went French-Italian…foie gras ravioli. We started with the buffalo mozzarella. It really hit the spot and again we were seated next to a French couple who were friendly to us and on the other side was Jean-Jacques Sempe, the cartoonist, who lives in the area. A great meal and we just walked back across the street to go to bed!
Friday, Christmas Eve
Well, you might have guessed, we went to Gerard Mulot to get our pain au chocolat…but were foiled…no pain au chocolate! All the locals snatched them right up for their Christmas celebrations, but not to worry. Regular croissants and a new pastry to try (chausson aux pommes) were staring up at us from the case, so that was breakfast (and shamefully, more Starbucks). More snow, as well!
So, another item on my “I have to do this in Paris” list is to get ice cream at Bertillon (31 rue St Louis en I’ile, 75004). And no, I couldn’t possible have gone to Bertillon during the summer (when I was last there it was closed due to those pesky Parisian August holidays). So off we went to Ile St. Louis in the snow and crossing the Seine it was COLD! I have never been to Ile St. Louis before and while I don’t think I would stay there, I would love to go back and try some of the quaint restaurants that line the “main drag” on the island. As everyone says, you need only look for the line to find Bertillon and my husband (you know, Mr. Starbucks), was patient enough with me to stand in line, in the snow, to get ice cream. The fun thing is that it was all locals in line, not tourists (we don’t consider ourselves tourists, of course). The line wasn’t too bad and it moved and uh oh, as we got close to the door, I am beginning to realize…no one is getting just a scoop or a cone. Well, I didn’t care…I was getting Bertillon ice cream come hell or high water. As always, they accommodated our language skills without any attitude. So I ordered what I came for…caramel gingembre. And the lady replied, “Oh, we didn’t don’t have gingembre” . (I am feeling like the kid from A Christmas Story asking for the red rider BB gun, What? It’s on the sign! But, I came! I waited ! No caramel gingembre, I was in shock)! She suggested and I got a ½ liter of Caramel Beurre Sale ice cream, packed in the cutest Styrofoam box, as my reward for the trek and the wait. Now you might be thinking, “how are you gonna eat that”? No problem, the store next door sells cookware and we bought a spoon. The young man who rang it up, knew exactly what we were doing, and removed the price tag from the bottom of the spoon and wiped it all down and we were good to go. If you are going to eat Bertillon ice cream, on Christmas Eve, in the snow, is there a better place than the little park behind Notre Dame? Of course, there isn’t!! So that’s what we did and can I just say that the ice cream is everything they say it is and more. It really was special…the ultimate in caramel flavor and soooo buttery. This was one of my favorite moments of our trip. And it was Mr. Starbucks idea to eat it in the park at Notre Dame, which explains why I am willing to go to Starbucks with him in Paris every day. We did a little more shopping; we sampled some chocolate at Cacao et Chocolat (63 rue St Louis en I’ile) and had to have that! I bought a lovely scarf (Diwali, on the same street as Bertillon and Cacao et Chocolat) and the sales girl was from Indiana and studying in Paris.
Back across the Seine and on rue Buci, we decided to stop for coffee at Café de Paris (10 rue Buci, 75006). Café noir for Chaz (after he has his Starbucks, he does like a café noir here and there, he just needs large quantities to start with) and Café Crème for me. A nice French man asked where we were from (no, you can never hide the fact that you are American or at least, not French). When I said Atlanta, he said, “Welcome”…the French are not mean, nasty or rude.
And then we were off to just window shop and enjoy the city, the snow and the Christmas activity. We were luck to end up at Café Varenne (36 rue Varenne, 75007) and had a wonderful, casual lunch. Chaz enjoyed a steak with fries, but not steak frites, exactly. It was good and I had a really good tomato and mozzarella quiche and salad. It just happens that I remembered after we were seated, that Ina Garten also likes Café Varenne, (She is always right).
It was so nice to just be out and about in Paris on Christmas Eve. I can also recommend Sabbia Rosa (73 rue des Saints- Peres, 75006) for really beautiful lingerie. It is a small store but so well organized and they couldn’t have more gorgeous colors. Very classic styles and also some lovely prints.
We noticed almost everything in our neighborhood was closed as we left for dinner that night. We spent Christmas Eve at Le Train Bleu at Gare de Lyon. It is a beautiful restaurant. Maybe a little bit touristy but we enjoyed our dinner and the evening. This is the one place that I didn’t write down the menu that we had…I know we started with a foie gras brulee that was very good. Lots of courses, but I don’t remember more than that. There are pictures with captions, so check them out.
Christmas Day
Well, finally no Starbucks (closed) and we ate at out hotel. I got quite a strange look when I asked for a diet coke. It was kinda funny…it is my drink of choice. They did bring me one but it was a bit like I asked for a shot of tequila. They serve Gerard Mulot pastries and yogurt, fruit, cheese...very nice.
We both got a Christmas present we didn’t want…colds! Not too bad but still not a welcome gift.
We stopped in at St Sulpice for a little while before heading over to our big blowout Christmas dinner at Le Cinq at the Four Seasons Hotel. The hotel was, of course, decked out for Christmas and the staff there was so kind. We were early and they continued to apologize for making us wait. They had this very cool Swarovski light display set up in a heated cabana outdoors. Very unusual.
Lunch was course after course of flat out decadence. The service was impeccable. It started with an amuse bouche of eggplant mousse and a thin slice of cured duck that was excellent.
Course one: Oysters with green apple jelly and caviar
Course two: Root vegetables with black truffle and chestnut cappuccino and puff pastry brioche
Course three: Sea scallops with ginger, with creamy aquarello risotto and black truffle (my favorite)
Course four: Breton lobster cooked as minestrone with parmesan cheese (a close second)
Course five: Barbary free range duckling in pastry with foie gras and pumpkin nougat with spices
Course six: Comte, Vacherin and quince jelly
Course seven: Hibiscus jelly with grapefruit, raspberry and foamy vanilla
Course eight: Iced chocolate buche de Noel, mango/passion fruit crème brulee
THEN…a dessert cart with little small macaroons, chocolates, and more…we were also sent home with caramels…seriously way up there with the most decadent things we have ever done. I also love that they had little low stools that they placed next to you for your purse or hat.
We ventured out to Place des Vosges that afternoon. Snow still on the ground and it was very cold out. Not too much happening and we were so full, that even a cup of coffee was out the question. Turns out, we went back to our room and were just miserable-we couldn’t move!! We were in for the night (sad, but I swear we couldn’t put anything else in our stomachs).
December 26, Sunday
Back to Gerard Mulot for pastries and then off to the Pantheon. (Another place I had never made it to before). Next, Hotel de Crillon. It was a brilliant day and so sunny! Place de Concorde and all the sights were well in view and really spectacular. What a gorgeous hotel and beautifully decorated for Christmas. It was a real treat to be there. We had a wonderful (and again decadent) brunch at Les Ambassadeurs (Joan, thanks for mentioning the hotel in your trip report, or I wouldn’t have known about it). The restaurant is so pretty and the service was impeccable. There was Brioche and Kugelhof on the table (with the best house made nutella-to die for and preserves). Also fruit with vanilla yogurt and a foccacia with tuna , champagne and fresh juice. The buffet had two types of ham, a huge cheese assortment, smoked salmon (Chaz said it was the best smoked salmon he has ever had) pastries, salads,& lobster bisque. They also brought out a foie gras parfait with gooseberry gelee. Very smooth and very inventive. You also chose one main item (I had lobster carpaccio and Chaz had polenta with black truffles and a crispy soft boiled egg on top). He absolutely loved it. There was a dessert cart at the end, but we were just too full (again). It was a really special experience.
Over to the Louvre…very busy and there is so much there. It’s almost too much but you do have to go and Chaz had never been there. I think it was a bit overwhelming for him and we really didn’t research it very well ahead of time. So we saw the usual things and spent most of our time in the Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities.
We stopped off at Le Danton again for a little coffee to warm up.
We ended our night at Les Editeurs (4 Carrefour de l’Odeon, 75006)which is around the corner from our hotel. We had a very engaging server who poked some fun at my “American-ness” because with the head cold and the hectic crowds at the Louvre, I needed a little carbonation and caffeine, a diet Coke, of course! We had some wine and ended up staying for dinner. It was a fun place and our server was very friendly to us. I just had some onion soup gratinee (soup and a cold, I needed that) and Chaz had steak frittes. Both were terrific. We ended with an order of profiteroles…so good. Another favorite of Chaz’. We had a great time and it’s a really lively place.
December 27, Monday-the last day…already?? It can’t be!!
One last time to Gerard Mulot and we had to add on a Éclair Chocolat for Chaz (an all time favorite of his). Farewell!!
Finally, a visit to Musee de L’Armee and Hotel des Invalides. Really interesting and amazing suits of armor…so ornate. We also enjoyed the Japanese and Chinese armor, as well. And what can I say, Napoleon’s tomb is incredible. We spent quite some time there and still didn’t get to everything.
We wanted to go to Le Comptoir one last time, because Chaz really wanted the beef cheeks but it was packed when we got there, so we decided to head back to Les Editeurs. We got our same server, who remembered us and made fun of me again, because I ordered that French drink, Diet Coke! Her name is Sophia and if you go there, she will take good care of you. I kept the American theme going by ordering the cheeseburger which is a work of art, a 3 decker burger, but it is still small by our standards. Delicious! Chaz had the croque monsieur and it was also wonderful. A great little place and another reason we loved the area we stayed in…lots of great places right there.
A little light packing, after lunch, leading up to the last hurrah.
We went to L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (5 rue de Montalembert, 75007) on our last trip to Paris and loved it. So our last meal was there. But, we stopped off at Danton for a glass or two of champagne before heading out. Our regular server was there and friendly, as always. Farewell, Danton!
As we did many times during the trip, and even with a map, we went the wrong way down the right street. Buffalo Girl, if you are reading this, I thought of you and your “lost” time in Paris. We are both college educated and had maps, agreed on which way to go and still found that we had gone the wrong way…how is this possible? Excuse the digression, but we also were lost earlier in the week (with a map) and a very kind girl offered to help us…we didn’t ask, she just saw that we were confused and offered to help. Actually, she also was a bit turned around even with our map, so I don’t feel bad about the many times we were a bit lost in Paris. It’s fun even if you are going the wrong way.
Joel Robuchon was great again. They have the best champagne there (Bruno Paillard). We started with a little Iberico ham and a fabulous bruschetta. I got a lovely ribeye with fingerling potatoes and Chaz got Lamb with mushrooms and fingerling potatoes. We got a cheese course afterwards and well, we both had to have dessert. I got an incredible assortment of tarts…six tiny slices…one was pear (I think) and pistachio, cinnamon (the best), lemon, chocolate with caramel. Chaz had a delicious chocolate creation, Le Chocolat Tendance. We love the atmosphere there (sitting around a bar, with an open kitchen) and the service is so good. I love that they use fruits and vegetables as the décor, as well.
So back to our hotel one last time. We were really worn out!
Cab back to CDG was right on time and the hotel also made sure a car with adequate trunk space picked us up. Weather was getting a little bad as we were leaving Paris.
Sadly, Chaz got really sick during the night and really struggled on our flight home! I felt awful for him.
But, I will admit that I did enjoy the Air France lounge…especially the complimentary Clarins mini-spa. I got a 20 minute neck and shoulder massage and they gave me a little set of products to take with me. Every airport should have that! Weather was really getting bed as we left but we were only a little late arriving back in Atlanta.
It was a great Christmas! Funny, most of the music we heard over there was in English. (Lots of American Christmas music). We did exactly what we wanted to do, which was more relaxing and really enjoying the city. We did less site seeing and more time in cafes and strolling the local neighborhoods.
I love Paris…there will always be a reason to go back.
Christmas in Paris was fantastic!
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What a great trip report..had me laughing about Starbucks..am taking your report with me for the restaurants for my trip in March..only 81 days til wheels up!!It`ll be our first time for 3 women who are leaving the husbands at home!!Don`t care if it`s cold(we`re in Florida)and will be eating ice cream just like you did!!Thanks for sharing.
It sounds lovely, what a great way to spend Christmas. Thanks for writing the report, one of my goals is to visit Paris in the winter and now I'm more determined than ever to organise it.
I forgot to say that I also love that little park behind Notre Dame, although I must admit I've only sat there in the summer.
I just watched your slideshow----
It looks like you were there for a month instead of a week. You took me back to some of our favorite places like "Marco Polo"--- I know it's Italian but we must go there every time we are in Paris and hardly anyone talks about it. And "Le Train Bleu"---we had one of my best birthday dinners there. Did you ever watch "Nikita" or "No Way Out" which were filmed there?
We always go in Sept., so to see Place Vosges, Notre Dame, Ile St. Louis, etc. in the snow was a real treat. We had the Christmas stollen for breakfast, but the pan au chocolat looked much better.
Thank you for taking us along!
denisea,
I love your pictures, trip report and your hat! How was the eggplant mouse and the risotto?
Thanks for taking us along with you.
barbeecat, my first trip to Paris was with 3 girlfriends and we had the best time!! I hope you have a great trip.
Denise, I loved your trip report! I was in Paris in late December a long time ago. I remember Notre Dame and went to an organ concert there, the organ just filled the place with sound. Would love to see it in the snow--great photos.
The food shots were also amazing. Never thought I'd be one for a carpaccio but that lobster looked to die for.
Thanks for letting us live vicariously
Great trip report and great photos! We spent Christmas and New Years in 2008 bringing in 2009 in Paris - Cathies do go over in the winter - I have only been twice - once in June and once in December and fell in love with it in December!
Thanks for bringing back great memories!
TPAYT....have seen No Way Out but it was long ago and now I will need to re-watch and look for Le Train Bleu, have not seen Nikita but now I have a reason to.
cafegoddess...both were great but the risotto was truly special and one of my favs from the whole trip...just realized that I didn't post the food pics from my iphone, so that will be coming...I know photos from Le Comptoir are on there so I will post a link to those later (thanks for the snaps on the hat!).
barbeecat...I checked the Delta site all the time to see how many days away I was, as well
MomDDTravel....have been twice in August and once in December and December is really special...just have to be there to know it
Wonderful report, I really felt your spirit in it! Glad you enjoyed it!
Great report..now about that tiny little room in the hotel you keep forgetting to tell us the name of....
Thanks so much, I know that area well so reading your report was like being back at the relais (when I was on an expense account).
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How many POUNDS did this trip cost??? (Not the English currency). Please don't tell me you are one of those people with Hummingbird Metabolism, your weight never varies no matter how much wonderful rich food you ingest. I can't bear it.
However, I DO greatly appreciate in your narrative that you referred to your spouse by his nickname or mr. starbucks, and not that "twee" abbreviation (DH) that too many Fodorites are addicted to. I always note that it's women who use this, men never refer to DW.
sorry Dukey1, with everything in there I coulda sworn the hotel name was in the report. We stayed at Hotel Louis II at 2 rue St Sulpice. It is at the corner of rue de Conde and St Sulpice.
Sorry, for the oversight!
Hi,
Your trip sounds wonderful. A few years ago we went to Paris in Feb. so we could eat and shop. It was a fabulous vacation. I was inspired from an Ina Garten show on Paris. I love the out door atmosphere of the cafes in the summer, but there is a coziness of indoor cafe dinning and the hearty foods of winter. Also you can sit outside and drink a glass of champagne, as most cafes have outdoor heaters. Thanks for the memories.
Yipper
Thank you for sharing your lovely Christmas in Paris. I very much enjoyed the report and pictures.
kay
travelerjan...I don't know how many pounds this cost...it isn't awful (thank god, lots of walking and stair climbing)...I am definitely feeling a little softer but wouldn't dream of getting on the scales and no I am not a "hummingbird" but I do work out (when I am not in Paris)...the workouts start back tomorrow. my clothes still fit probably because I can never finish all the meals!
denisea, with apologies to BuffaloGirl, all I can say is WOW. It would have taken me two weeks to type all of the information. Excellent report and I think you are a cute couple. I gained ten pounds just looking at the great food. Now I gotta go to the Opera Garnier too....It looks awsome. Thanks for the WOW report, ziggypop
link to second set of pics (Le Comptoir -both visits, Le Souffle and Opera Garnier)for those who are interested:
http://picasaweb.google.com/denisewadamson/ParisChristmas2010IPhonePics?authkey=Gv1sRgCIqr5rrO6cLrzQE#
Loved you trip report, so much great information on a favourite passtime, eating! Will be back in Paris in September and noting the restaurants. But I have a dream wish to visit Paris (and Europe) in December to see all the Christmas grandure.
Thankyou - loved the photos too!
Just loved your report,We are going back in May (trip #7),hoping to try some of your restaurants.Thanks for all the pictures and descriptions of what you ate.
Thanks
Elaine
I went to Paris for Christmas a few years ago and it was magical... This made me want to go back!
Many thanks for your fabulous report. I envy your being in Paris at Christmas. It must be sensational.
Thanks for the restaurants listing. Saving for my trip in May.
Again great report and so much fun to read.
Denisea - I've been waiting for this! Ziggypop beat me to it.........WOW!!!! It sounds like you had a wonderful time. You've so made me want to go during Christmas.
Loved the nose-picking story! And if you don't mind, I'm going to borrow your word "spectaculareness."
Great report and pictures. (You and your husband are very photogenic, BTW).
I was actually thinking about Paris today. I'm glad you had such a wonderful time. Happy New Year!
Oh, and glad to hear you got lost (I mean that in the nicest of ways). And that chocolate shop on the island you talked about is where I got all my chocolate gifts to take home - although I ate half of what I bought!
Buffalo Girl...I certainly know that you mean that in the nicest way...I literally was thinking about you and explaining your lost time to Chaz...and BTW...I just mowed right through the chocolates I brought home yesterday. All gone. Borrow any word you wish!! I make them up all the time!
The Notre Dame in the background of someone picking their nose really was funny... we needed a laugh at that point 'cuz we just wanted to get to the hotel so bad and get on with our trip!!!
Ooops, I did it again...found some more photos that didn't make it on the original report... here is the link if you would like to see them:
http://picasaweb.google.com/denisewadamson/ParisChristmas20102?authkey=Gv1sRgCNGOorr-m8W3oAE#
enjoy them!
Great report! Thanks for writing it. I think we will be staying in an apt right near where u stayed (corner of Rue du Seine and Blvd Saint Germain), so the neighborhood hints are appreciated. I think I will follow 1/2 your breakfast ritual with pastries from Gerard Mulot. I love Le Comptoir -- one of our favorite spots for lunch. Cant wait to try some of your other meals.
can't go wrong with pastries from Gerard Mulot...we regret never having time to get some of their lunch items or gorgeous dessert items in the cases upfront...always an excuse to go back, please do report on what you get there during your trip....as far as Le Comptoir, I could live off that lobster bisque or even the saucission! I am missing it now!
Yes, that is always a problem in Paris --too many good things to eat...can never get enuff!
the food looks wonderful...so does Paris!
Great report - thanks, denisea. Le Danton was a hang-out of mine when I went to college in Paris a million years ago, so it brought back lots of memories. I know that "corner" well.
So tell me, how do we go about getting ourselves invited to Ina and Jeffrey's?
We really loved hanging out at Le Danton! If only I knew how to get that coveted invitation from the Gartens...glad to hear someone else has the same "dream"
Great report, the nose picking reminded me of the "Seinfeld" episode. We were there from Dec 18-29. I will start my trip report tomorrow. It will take some time. I have a special story for BuffaloGirl.
can't wait to hear your BG story and the whole TR...I loved Christmas in Paris and will enjoy hearing all about your experiences
I enjoyed reading your report very much! We were there at the same time and enjoyed the cold, snowy weather and all of the decorations. Wintertime is so magical in Paris isn't it?!
>>a pain au chocolat to start my day (that’s what I call, the breakfast of champions<<
I share your love of food with a lust for pain au chocolate. I think we had at least one every day if not two. To get your fix here at home get these. I promise they are as good as what you get in Paris. I promise they won't disappoint!
www.williams-sonoma.com/products/chocolate-croissant
Glad you had such a great time and thanks for posting!
I read that Trader Joe's pain au chocolate are manufactured by the same company that makes Williams-Sonoma's. I haven't tried W-S but Trader Joe's come pretty darn close to Parisian!
Interesting because, although I haven't had the p.a.c. from Williams-Sonoma, I sent them to a girlfriend for Christmas this year ( a little Paris in Chicago ), so now I will HAVE to get some for myself. I believe that they are made by a very famous French pastry chef. Will definitely check at Trader Joe's. It seems like even a bad p.a.c is probably heavenly!
Winter really was special in Paris and would go back in a heartbeat! Still so much stuff I didn't get to (like every other trip to Paris)!!
I am another fan of Europe over the holiday season - I find it a special and beautiful time of year.
Even though I am not a lover of Paris, I enjoyed your trip report and have passed it on to friends headed there this winter.
Thanks for sharing.
Wonderful report and super pix.
So glad your report was topped as I missed it the first time. What a wonderful trip, made me want to jump on the first plane to Paris!
Thanks all and I appreciate the revival! We are missing Paris after being home for over two weeks, the fun of it is sharing it and re-living it every now and then through the T/R.
There are more pics on Christmas in Paris was fantastic (part two), as well. I missed a few photos the first time.
Just saw the second and third photo links...souffles look so good; which arrondisement is Le Souffle in? Also the food at Le Comptoir looks terrific! Will have to try!
Le Comptoir was very good and right by our hotel. It was featured on No Reservations w/ Anthony Bourdain...part of a Paris movement with small restaurants that focus on very high food quality without all the waiters, fancy decor and high prices. We really enjoyed it...no photo of the lobster bisque but it was phenomenal. We also loved their saucisson.
I understand reservations can be tough to get, so start working on them early so you don't miss out!
oops...forgot to answer this...Le Souffle is in the first aeeondisement; around the corner from the Chanel boutique on rue Cambon.
Le Soufflé. 36 rue Mont Thabor 75001
Great report, you certainly travel in grand style!
Oh, not usually, we just decided to have the blow out Christmas of all time and then probably no vacation at all in 2011! It was worth it.
I stayed in an apartment just across the street from your hotel and also went to Gerard Mulot's every morning for breakfast, picking up great cheese in the covered market nearby. Your food photos are terrific; thanks so much for labeling them all. I passed Marco Polo all the time but never thought to go in because it was Italian. For sure, it's on the list for my next trip.
Love your travel philosophy--"we just decided to have the blow out Christmas of all time and then probably no vacation at all in 2011! It was worth it." You only live once, and apparently you two have decided how to do it right. As I was looking at your pictures I started to realize that you hit every "biggy" in Paris, so by the time you got to Atelier Robuchon, I was giggling. You sure know how to pick 'em! Wonderful trip, with all the trimmings.
Oh Nancy 1652, especially if you are there in summer try Marco Polo for the lovely outdoor tables and the melon & prosciutto...literally the melon was just so good and I never need an excuse to get prosciutto. We also love the gorgonzola after dinner it's just so good and you get enough for 6 people. Sometimes, no matter how good, you just can't eat anymore fois gras and Italian hits the spot.
JulieV...love the fact that you got what we were doing...it was decadent and embarrassing how much we ate (and what we spent on it) but we truly enjoyed it and it was a spectacular experience. It was all so memorable and we had a ball! So glad you enjoyed...Paris is all about pure enjoyment.
Another fan of Marco Polo----we always share the melon and prosciutto and also the grilled antipasto vegetables as starters.
Ahhh, TPAYT, I can taste it now!!
Hi denisea: Great trip report loved all the details. Just wondering if by any chance you saw either of the Jr. Suites (attic rooms) at the Hotel Louis II? We're holding a reservation for one of those rooms in March and wondering how they are. we are 3 adults (sister, mom & myself) and obviously need more space than the regular rooms. We'll be there a week and still trying to pin down which hotel. I had heard about Marco Polo and now I really can't wait to go there!
denisea, you commented on my post about hotels -- thank you. We have decided on the Hotel Louis II partially due to your recommendation and wonderful trip report. I love your photos and the restaurants you picked. When I read about your trek to Bertillon, I knew our travel styles were similar!
KT travel-Truly one of the best things about this site, isn't it?! I hope you found all three photo links...great food photos on the second and third links that didn't get on the first one. The location of Louis II is superb!! I miss my little neighborhood in Paris...Le Comptoir right around the corner! Oh, and that Berthillon ice cream...remarkable!
I hope you enjoy your trip-I look forward to reading your trip report!
mish42- sorry I missed your question..I did not see the junior suite upstairs at Hotel Louis II. I have seen it on the internet but not in person. We were in a regular room on the third floor which I actually think are the smallest rooms. We did fine with two adults for a week, so I think the junior suite for three will work. We did this even with two fairly large suitcases in our room, as well. We are not light packers!
As before, seriously, the location is so great for Parisian neighborhood feel, close Metro stop, terrific little places for dining, drinks and coffee. If you haven't looked the photos on my T/R, you can see the neighborhood (look for shots with Le Danton, Le Comptoir, Marco Polo).
Good luck with planning your trip! Enjoy Paris.
Hi Denisea:
Just re-read your T.R., taking notes for our (myself, sister and mom) upcoming trip in 2 weeks. We ended up pushing our budget up a bit, so although we won't be staying at Louis II, we'll be in the exact same area, staying at Le Relais St. Germain (the hotel next to Le Comptoir, owned by the chef). You didn't happen to go in the that hotel at all did you? Still hoping we made good decision. (other consideration was D'Aubusson - a few blocks towards the Seine and a bigger hotel). Curious if reservations are needed or even taken for Marco Polo. Definitely plan to eat there, as well as Le Comptoir. Made note of the Souffle restaurant and of course, will go to Bertillon regardless of the weather!
Mish42- Marco Polo does take a reservation...just ask your hotel to call over there for you. If the weather allows for outdoor seating, you probably won't need to book but if not it is small and gets crowded.
I did not go into Le Relais but would definitely consider staying there and I believe it is nicer than Hotel Louis II. We loved the location, so I think you are making a great choice...and you will get priority booking at Le Comptoir. L'Avant Comptoir next door is great for a crepe or appetizers, as well.
You will not believe Berthillon...so good. I would kill for more of that Salted Caramel Ice Cream (or the Grand Marnier Souffle st Le Souffle).
Have a great time.
Great trip report!
I stopped at Starbucks a lot, even though I don't usually at home. It was a great spot to rest for a while and use a very clean bathroom.
The chocolate croissants in the freezer section at Trader Joe's are great too. You let them rise overnight before baking. Amazing.
starrs...OK that's the second time I have heard that about the Trader Joe's pain au chocolat! Gonna have to check that out soon! A bit of Paris at home sounds good about now!!
merci!
Someone said that they same folks do the Wms-Sonoma croissants. Don't know. Just know TJ's are great. I took them for the big house party/Thanksgiving this year and they were a big hit! This last time I bought the mini-croissants. Haven't tried them yet but am tempted every time I open the freezer door
That's why they are so good 
Whatever you do, don't read the side of the box for the nutritional info. You don't wanna know
You saw my T/R...are you kidding? If I am going to enjoy my food, I never read the nutritional label! I'll just run an extra mile or two but with French pastry , you can pretty much assume it's not diet food!
Denisea,
I just read your trip report again because my mother in law and I decided to spend our Christmas in Paris this year. You made Christmas in Paris so exciting! Thanks. I can't wait to try Marco Polo and Le Comptoir.
cafegoddess...you will enjoy Paris at Christmas. We loved it!
Chaz and I were just talking about Le Comptoir last night. We return to Paris over Thanksgiving this year and will make a point of going back there because I have to have the lobster bisque again and he has to have the beef cheeks again. If I remember correctly, there are no reservations at Christmas time, so go early to get a table. It is very small. The out door seats do come with blankets and over head heaters (I think).
My husband is a little concerned about the weather because of his parents age (86 and 85). I told him I will buy them the heaviest silk long johns. I am so excited since we are not going this time of the year.
Thanks denisea for a funny and well written trip report.
You definitely want some good cold weather gear...we both found excellent thin/lightweight underwear to wear under our clothes. I got mine at REI but mostly wore the top, not the bottoms. I can also recommend those little hot hand things...you can get them at REI or even Walmart, but they make them for hands, feet and body. They are good for the really cold days or for extended time outside. Honestly, a truly warm scarf is the my biggest key to staying warm, a hat is second.
We were never really cold for any extended amount of time, even when it was raining. I really think they will be OK but it's a great excuse to stop for vin chaud or a hot chocolate.
I can't wait to see your T/R!
Thanks for sharing and your report helps my planning.
Denise:
Marco Polo, Les Editeurs, Le Comptoir and Danton are my favorites as well.
You will have a great time at Thanksgiving at Violon d'Ingres. Have been there for lunch with Joan.
Denisea, just wanted to let you know that, as we're getting more serious about planning for our Christmas Week visit to Paris, we've again read and enjoyed your trip report and pictures. We have a couple of additional questions. Did you make any kind of reservations ahead of time (i.e.from home) for New Years' Eve? We were wondering about planning something within walking distance of our Hotel Le Regent on Rue Dauphine (like dinner and a concert)so that we don't have to rely on transportation with possibly throngs of others. Also, during your stay, did you tend to use the metro or buses to get around? Being wimps, we were wondering which mode of transportation would be a "warmer" option? We appreciate your suggestions, like taking hand and foot warmers. We've been to wonderful Paris several times, but in spring or summer. This will be our first trip at Christmas. We're really looking forward to the experience, but want to be prepared. Thanks again for your great report and for any other additional info you may have.
Hi Tomarkot- Always nice to know that your T/R is being read and actually fun to see it revived. We had such a wonderful time....it really was special to be in Paris at Christmas.
I am afraid I will be of no help regarding NYE...we left on 12/27 or 12/28. But your plan sounds like a smart one.
We used the Metro exclusively (OK we took a cab once). We were so close to the Odeon Metro stop, so it was very convenient for us. I do understand that the bus is also easy and we are going to try it out over Thanksgiving this year. Will post back and let you know how it went. I would think if weather is an issue, the Metro might be warmer but with a bus, you would probably be closer to your final destination. It really wasn't bad being outside and I was only really cold twice. (Maybe we were just high from being there and didn't notice it)! I think the thin layers we got from REI to wear under our clothes were our key to staying warm.
You're gonna have a great time. Even though we are going at Thanksgiving, I find myself also wanting to go for Christmas...not enough money or time!
Denisea, thanks so much for your prompt reply. Our Hotel Le Regent is very close to the Odeon metro stop. On Trip Advisor, it has good reviews, so we're hoping! The only downside seems to be very small rooms, but then, many of the little Parisian Hotels seem to be like that. In previous visits, we've stayed in different areas, but this is our first stay around St. Germaine des Pres. We're intend to check out a lot of the restaurants you suggest.
You're probably getting very excited about your upcoming Thanksgiving visit. No matter the time of year, Paris is great to anticipate, isn't it? We wish you a great trip and will look forward to your report.
We really love the SGDP area. There were a few new restaurants that we didn't get to, as well, that look good. The Christmas market at St Sulpice was also good, especially for food!
I think a tiny room is just part of it...make me more motivated to only be in it to sleep, though. I think the reviews on Trip Advisor are helpful, especially because you can see what is recent and not from 4 years ago!
We are so ready to go...just a few more weeks!
Hi denisea!
You are returning to Paris this year for Thanksgiving? How exciting!!!! It's been a year and I still think of it every day. I still dream of going during Christmas time.
Have a great time and I can't wait to read your trip report.
BuffaloGirl
Thanks for the tip about the Christmas market at St. Sulpice, and the confirmation about staying in the St. Germaine area.
Hi Buffalo Girl- I just commented to Judy that I miss your thread from last year! We are going over Thanksgiving and are going to the Thanksgiving dinner at Violon D'Ingres. Very excited!
(Hanging on to the thought of it tightly as I just got to my hotel and the reservation is screwed up and I am in a smoking room for tonight...ah, the glamour of business travel).
denisea, it's fun to see this thread still going! We were in Paris at the same time last Christmas and stayed over for New Year's Eve. It's great to see you are going back to Paris for Thanksgiving! We're going back for Christmas again this year. It's such a special place to spend Christmas, isn't it?!
P.S. If anyone needs a Paris fix order the chocolate croissants from Williams-Sonoma. They are spectacular and less than $2 a piece!
www.williams-sonoma.com/products/chocolate-croissant
Look at the above post from tomarkot re: NYE questions, maybe you can help there BeachGirl. It is fun to see the thread come back to life! We leave in 2 1/2 weeks...so ready to be there!!
I'm looking forward to hearing about the restaurants this trip, denisea. Especially the one's that Joan has recommended!
Paris in 47 days for me...feels like eternity!
tomarkot, NYE transportation stays open late, past midnight? I believe. Dining in your neighborhood or walking distance is highly recommended. The cabs have so much difficulty getting around (one year what was a 20 min cab ride to the restaurant was a ~3 hour~ ride back to the hotel! Metro is too crowded for us on NYE and full of boisterous revelers. Last year we walked to our restaurant and it wasn't too cold and didn't have to worry about buses/cabs/metro. If you have restaurants in mind check out their NYE menu and prices before reserving.
Regarding transportation, we've used the metro for longer distances but love to walk Paris. However, after reading gracejoan3's ongoing report we will take the buses this trip. Hope this helps.
Enjoy planning!
I was in Paris just before the OP last year and stayed right behind St. Sulpice (trip report if you click my name). The St. Sulpice market is nice and quaint, but we really enjoyed the one at the bottom of Champs Elysees, which is much larger and had a lot more to offer, plus you get to see the avenue all decked out and the ferris wheel at Concorde. You'll also find one near SGdP church and a huge one at La Defense. I detail all those in my report, so won't repeat here. Just know that there's not just one Christmas market in the city!
Thanks to denisea for referring our Paris New Years' Eve concerns, and to BeachGirl1247 and amyb for helpful info. We read and enjoyed your report, amyb. The suggestion of planning things within walking distance of our hotel on New Years' Eve support for what we are thinking. Any suggestions of less expensive restaurants in SG area which we might reserve for NYE? Probably many of the places will raise their prices for NYE.
Also, we noted in your report, amyb, that the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps were super-packed. Do you think this would be the case after Christmas? We'll be in Paris from December 27-January 2.
Any ideas are appreciated.
Not sure how packed the big stores will be after Christmas, it was hard to tell who was actually shopping and who was looking at the decorations when we were there.
I would think GL and Printemps would be a bit less crowded after Christmas. I agree, they were wall to wall, jammed a few days before.
Their are tons of markets but we liked the small one at St Sulpice because it is small
If you don't want an expensive meal on NYE, try les éditeurs. They do take reservations and we always had fun there. Or you might also consider Le Petite Chaise, be more expensive.
Agree that the shopping at Galleries Lafayette was very crowded at Christmas with all of their beautiful decorations. However, we noticed the crowds were much less after the new year but unfortunately, the decorations were down or coming down. If you can handle crowds go to GL before NYE to see their incredible Christmas displays.
I stayed on Ile St. Louis & we stayed in that area (and St. Germain) for NYE but I have my notes from the trip that may help on restaurants. Also, most all restaurants have prix fix menus for NYE so if you have restaurants in mind you might contact them to see if they have it available yet to decide. Here are a few I found opened at the holidays:
Au Bon Accueil, 7th arr, near Eiffel Tower, great views, traditional bistro and popular place.
Chez Les Anges, 7th, www.chezlesanges.com
Epi Dupin www.epidupin.com
L'Epigramme, mixed reviews on it but it's in St. Germain
We found a local bistro which we had frequented quite often during our trip to celebrate NYE. Hopefully, you'll find a comfortable spot to enjoy the celebration after your dinner.
Thanks, denisea and BeachGirl247, especially for the restaurant suggestions. We are pursuing them. . .whether they're open for NYE, times, etc. We have been thinking about booking an early dinner, and purchasing tickets to a NYE concert at St. Germaine de Pres Church at 8:30, doors open at 8:00. Then going out for drinks afterward. All this would be within walking distance of our hotel. However, it seems that some restaurants do not begin serving until 7PM. So we'll do some additional searching. Thanks again for your input.
How I didn't see this report when it was first posted I'll never know...but it's terrific!
And helpful for my early December trip to Paris. I was thinking a lunch or dinner at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, but I fear the menu prices are out of my comfort zone. But your photos from that meal are to die for! I just may have to re-prioritize my budget!
Since we'll be there 2 weeks before Christmas I was interested to see your comments on the Christmas markets. I'll be sure to check out the one at St. Sulpice.
fantastic trip report. In your album, it looks cold but beautiful.
LCI- Thank you. I still like to re-read the T/R! There is a smaller part two with more food photo links! You should re-prioritize! We love, love, love L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon! You don't have to get the degustation menu which is a decadent/luxurious thing...we still talk about it!!! I have always enjoyed the open kitchen and seating around a bar. Excellent service. Last year, we just ordered off the menu and still enjoyed it tremendously and were less broke when we got back home!
Tentek....there were very few moments that I was really cold. So worth it and I will always be thrilled that we went at Christmas....truly special.
tomarkot...Paris definitely doesn't start dinner until 7pm or later and it is usually us tourists in restaurants at 7pm...if you can go later, try to! I do find it hard some times to wait that long and I can't do it well here at home (growing up "supper" was at 5:30pm!!!).
Denisea, we're going to re-assess our original idea for NYE. Your point about later dinner is well taken. We'll book a concert for another evening and just splurge for a later, more leisurely dinner. And, after reading your previous post, we will have to book L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon. . .though maybe not on NYE. Thanks, again!
Probably best decision on NYE. i am guessing that you have, but have you asked a contact at your hotel about NYE dinner?
If you go to L'Atelier and like champagne, try the Bruno Paillard. It is a small champagne house and I have never seen it anywhere else. Delicious. You can book on line for the first seating at L'Atelier. There are very few seats, so you will want to book ahead.
Denisea, after attempting to research restaurants online for NYE, we did decide to choose a few from suggestions received and e-mail our hotel, hoping that they might agree to book one for us. Thanks again for your help. And happy anticipation of your upcoming trip! Can't wait to hear all about it when you return!
Denisea....you have inspired me! It didn't take me long to re-prioritize! I made a reservation at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon for lunch one day during the week we will be in Paris. I figured if we go light on lunch we can splurge with the champagne you mentioned, a pre-Christmas celebration since we'll be there just before the holiday!
It doesn't take much to "twist my arm" when good food is in the picture!
LCI....good move. I am sure it will be worth it.
They have Robuchon's version on carbonara which is legendary. The mashed potatoes are reportedly heaven, although I have not had them. We still drool over the first item in the degustation menu we during a summer visit....a gazpacho with mustard sorbet. Insanely delicious.
We have seen reports on L'Atelier by Giada de Laurentis and Anthony Bourdain. I hope you enjoy it.
Last year as we were waiting in line to get in for the 6:30 dinner seating on our last night...a local woman behind us demanded to know if we had a reservation and in the same sentence let us know that we wouldn't get in without one. I smiled and told her we did have a reservation (and thought to myself, "Hey, do you think I am some rookie, here"?)!
Tomarkot...I think that is the best way to go for NYE. I hope it all works out.
Denise,
I just sent in the information for a reservation to l'Atelier for a reservation on December 23 as we are indeed going to Paris for Christmas. Do they send an e-mail confirmation back to you? I am very excited but we have to find somewhere to eat on Christmas day also. This is our 5th trip to Paris but our 1st at Christmas. I looked at your trip report and I am just counting downt he days. We brought our kids in 2006 for Thanksgiving Week and they loved it. Hope you have a great time.
Lisa
lrock5, I am sorry but I can't remember if we got a confirmation email. I don't see one in my Paris folder from last year. I will go on their site and see if it jogs my memory. Did the site indicate that your reservation was accepted/confirmed? We have reserved twice online and have never had a problem with the reservation.
We went for the blow out at Le Cinq on Christmas Day, but I am sure there are options at many hotels that would be a bit more budget friendly than Le Cinq. I know gracejoan loves Bar Vendome at the The Ritz, so that is worth looking at.
It said something to the effect that reservation was not official until confirmed by l'Atelier
I just can't remember and I have checked my email to see if I could find anything. I feel like there probably was an email confirmation from them. I DO remember that you are expected to confirm the day before, by phone, which is pretty standard there.
I would think that if you don't receive a confirmation by the end of business on Monday, you could contact them to inquire.
lrock5,
I made my L'Atelier reservation yesterday (Sat.) for Dec. 13th and this morning (Sun) there was a confirmation email. So I'm sure you should receive one by tomorrow. And the confirmation email did say reservations must be confirmed via phone the day before. Hope this helps.
Thanks LCI...glad to have current info from L'Atelier de JR. We are branching out on this trip and won't make it this time around but I will want to hear all about it from ltock5 and LCI. I saw a post from Joan and she is scheduled to go there tonight, I think.
I got my e-mail this morning from 'Atelier. We just need to call the day before to confirm! Thanks for your help. I am pinching myself. We are going to Paris for Christmas.
Very good. I know how you feel Lrock! I truly hope you enjoy your trip as much as we did ours. Paris really is a special place to spend Christmas.
Denise...
Sorry if this may "de-rail" the main topic of this thread, but I thought you might like this bit of information.
I've booked a wine tasting for my December Paris visit at O Chateau and thought if you didn't already know about it, you might want to check it out. Fodorite flygirl was there a couple months ago and mentioned it in her trip report (that's how I found out about it)
The website is:
http://www.o-chateau.com/
Hi LCI-
Thanks! Always looking for new places...this trip we are trying to do more new and less re-visiting. Great timing. I will check it out. Saw that Joan and Sue didn't love L'Atelier...hate it when that happens! I am going to try Reed, if we can get in.
Seriously ready to go now!!
denisea, look at Verjus. It is a new restaurant/wine bar opened by the couple who hosts Hidden Kitchen. Some of our best meals in Paris were at Hidden Kitchen but I think they may not be able to continue that and manage the new restaurant as well.
Denise...
Yes, I saw Joan's post about L'Atelier and I started to second-guess my choice to make the reservation there. But knowing how the restaurant biz can be (my sister is a chef) it could have just been an off night for one cook/server and the experience is completely different!
FWIW, in a blog post today David Lebovitz wrote about O Chateau, you may want to check out what he had to say.
Judy...I'd just heard about Verjus a couple weeks ago (again, from the David Lebovitz blog) and have that on my list too! Seems like they had some big hurdles to jump through to open the place up. From what I can tell only their wine bar is open now with the associated restaurant to open very soon.
LCI, if the restaurant hasn't opened, they may still be serving in their apartment as Hidden Kitchen....well worth trying to get a reservation or on a waiting list for a cancellation. They do book up months in advance.
I do love David Lebovitz! I am sure we will hit O Chateau.
I am kinda sick that we are already booked up during the latter part of our week. Would love to do their Champagne cruise on the Seine. I have always avoided them because I don't want a big crowd and anything too cheesy. If our Friday/Saturday plans fall through, I am going to do that. We may have to do the wine/cheese lunch.
So many choices!!
Verjus, according to their website, says they will open December 1st. Perfect for your trip, LCI.
www.verjusparis.com
Hmmm, I just 'liked" them on Facebook and it appears they are already open. Dry run photos were from 25 September.
BeachGirl...
I "liked" them on Facebook too. From what I read the wine bar has been open since mid-October but they have been having some difficulty getting required permits for the restaurant. I think it was the David Lebovitz blog post where I read about the delays with opening. I can't remember how long ago the post was published, maybe early October if you want to search the David L. blog.
I think the dry run was from the wine bar. The restaurant is above the wine bar but one has an address on rue Montpensier and the other on rue Richelieu. The wine bar was opening first.
We had dinner at Hidden Kitchen in September and they were discussing their opening issues. They are quite talented and a nice young couple.
OMG, I may be the last person on the planet not on Facebook!
No, denisea, if you are the last I'm on the list with you.
Always, good to know there are other holdouts out there!
Just a little more than a week before I head back to Paris...what to call the Thanksgiving in Paris T/R??
"Thanksgiving in Paris was fantastic"?
Whatever you call it, I look forward to it.
Can you believe it's almost here?! I remember when you first decided to go (clearly, I don't have a Paris trip planned, or I wouldn't be stalking other people's trips - ha!)
Btw, I'm not on facebook either.
denisea,
I am awaiting your trip report with baited breath! And, I really hope you get to try the salted caramel soufflé that Joan had. That alone is enough to get me back to Paris!
I hope you sign on to FB at some point. Many of us who are here on Fodor's have so much fun sharing foodie threads and conversations about great food finds - yes, it's ll about food with me. What can I say!
Wow, Wow, Wow. What a great report. I know it has been a while but just wanted to let you know! I love to travel and your report almost made me book a trip to Paris! LOL I live in Tucson, and if I fly Delta to Europe I go through Atlanta. If interested check out my travel blog
www.travelwiththomas.blogspot.com
Happy travels!
You guys are awesome. ONE MORE WEEK!!!
YankyGirl-we all stalk each other's trips!
I hope I can get that souffle, as well! I fell in love with the salted caramel ice cream at Berthillon last year and I love that combination. Plus, I am a total souffle fanatic...will stalk the Constant restaurants until I get it!
Luckyscout, thanks so much and I will check out your travel blog, for sure! Beachgirl, Mr Starbucks is on FB but I have resisted. I hate to say it, but the thing that Chaz had feared happened when he got on FB, did happen...friend requests from people he didn't really want to re-connect with, but didn't want to be rude to....I dunno...maybe I will go on FB as a "fictitious" person.
Denisea, my husband and I are planning our trip to London and we had thought we would also go to Ireland as well. However, for a few reasons ( most particularly, the time of the year we are traveling) I could not get happy with a trip to Ireland. I came upon your Paris trip reports, and that settled the matter: I went downstairs and announced to my husband, "What do you say, let's go back to Paris!" And just like that everything was settled. Thank you!
Wow, bonniejean...that's great!
We just returned from our Thanksgiving trip to Paris two weeks ago. I hope you have a great trip; Paris is so spectacular at Christmas. I am so excited for you and all the Fodorites headed over at Christmas. I am jealous but look forward to hearing all about it and seeing the pictures!
Joyeux Noel!
Can't find David L's comments about O Chateau. Can anyone help me find it? Thanks
Found it.
Fantastic, fun photos! I can see from your trip reports that you enjoy Paris around the holidays too. I still can't believe I am back home again.
Oh, fun to see a revival here....there is a second part with a few more pics...wish we could be there this year!
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/christmas-in-paris-was-fantastic-part-two-much-smaller.cfm