Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Calling all Provence Experts - Itinerary Help

Search

Calling all Provence Experts - Itinerary Help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 15th, 2006, 02:43 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Calling all Provence Experts - Itinerary Help

My sister and I will be in Provence for 3.5 days arriving by train at 2:30 on Sunday, August 13 and departing by train on Thursday, August 17. We will have a rental car for those 3.5 days. We are staying right outside of St. Remy.

My sister and I hope to get out of our Provence trip a sense of the area's culture, scenic beauty, great food, charming villages, and tons of shopping. We are in our early 30's and don't mind running till we drop.

We have an idea of the places we'd like to visit .. much thanks to this site and to Stu Dudley's famous Provence report!!!

As you may have guessed, we aren't going at the best time ... We arrive Sunday afternoon .. most places are closed Sunday and Monday. Tuesday, August 15 is a Holiday and Wednesday is our last full day. The list we have come up with is a bit ambitious ... we aren't even sure if it can be done. Neither of us has been to Provence so we aren't exactly sure what areas will be 'open' on a Sunday, Monday or the holiday versus what will definitely be closed ... hence our problem. Below is our list.

~St. Remy

~Les Baux

~Isle sur la sorgue (I read there is an antique fair here on 8/15)

~Abbey Senanque (fields of lavender)

~Stu Dudley's lavender field route (Stu, is it possible to shorten the trip so that we see a major part of the lavender in half a day or so ... or maybe tie the route in with some of the towns we'd like to see)?

~Eygalieres ???? (not sure)

~Aix (This isn't a must .... but I read it's cute and has great shops)

~Cassis (My sister would like to go here but I think it is a bit over ambitious and won't make it in this trip) ???


With the above places I've mentioned, how would the experts plan the 3.5 days to get the most of everything? Of course this means scheduling around it being a Sunday and Monday when most is closed and Tuesday being the holiday.

Thank you for your time and help!!! We are looking forward to the responses.
katzen is offline  
Old May 15th, 2006, 03:47 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The Lavender route won't take all day. You can easily do it in a half day. If you dawdle a bit, cut out the section past Montbrun that goes up in the mountains into some higher elevation lavender fields and has views of Mt Ventoux, etc. This would be a good trip for Monday. Perhaps do the route in reverse, and start Monday with a visit to the excellent morning market in Bedoin.

Stores in Les Baux, Gordes, Roussillon, and many in St Remy will be open on Sunday. My wife's favoirite stores in St Remy are closed on Mondays. We have never been there in August - so I don't know if the closing days & times are any different then than they are in June, July, & Sept.

Doesn't sound like Aix would be a good bet. All but the ultra-touristy stores will be closed on Sun & Monday mornings, with some opening in the afternoon on Monday.

Stu Dudley

StuDudley is online now  
Old May 15th, 2006, 06:20 PM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks Stu! Our train gets in at 2:30 so do you think there will be time to pick up our car, drive to St. Remy to our Mas and still have time to hit some shops in St. Remy and/or Las Baux?

What day would you do Isle sur la sorgue? I know the market is Sunday but I don't think we'll have enough time to get over that way.

Monday maybe we will check out the market at Bedoin and hit the lavender route. (once I look at a map and figure out where Bedoin is) I also need to map your route backwards.

Is Eygalieres worth a visit? For a 1st time visitor to this area do you think we are getting a 'overall' start to Provence?

Thanks!

katzen is offline  
Old May 15th, 2006, 07:26 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You will have PLEANTY of time to explore St Remy thoroughly. Stores close around 8pm. Shops in Les Baux border on the tacky side - but there are some interesting ones. The main attraction is the crumbling chateau up on top, and the views from there are excellent. Several times we've rushed up there just before closing to admire the views.

Monday will be completly dead in l'Isle sur la Sorgue - we were there on a Monday once. The town is nice, but it doesn't seem like it's in the "stars" for you.

Eygalieres is nice, but so are a twenty other towns Provence. You are staying close to there, so if you get back to St Remy early after a day exploring other sites - stop for a visit. Arles, Uzes, Vaison medieval section, Aix, Bonnieux, Gordes, Roussillon, Saignon, Avignon, St Saturnin, Goult, Pernes, Nyons, Carpentras, and even Caromb would be better investments of your time.

I'll be out of town until the 22nd - so this is my last post for a while.

Stu Dudley
StuDudley is online now  
Old May 16th, 2006, 03:37 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
l'Isle sur la Sorgue will be fine on Monday the 14th... the four day special antique market takes place then. The place will probably be jammed, actually.

You should have plenty of time to get your car, get to St Rémy and visit Les Baux. Go at the very end of the afternoon and you'll have fewer tourists to contend with. The bus tours all leave between 5 and 6 PM.

You should check with your hotel - perhaps they'll be able to find out if the lavender has been harvested. It usually is by mid-August - but everything is blooming late here this year.

Because it's a holiday weekend and in the middle of the summer vacation period, many of the stores will be open on Sunday and Monday - perhaps only half day on Monday, but open. Many will also be open on Tuesday morning, even if it is a holiday.

I'd skip Aix and Cassis - both will be extremely crowded (Cassis will actually be a nightmare with traffic) and your time is short here.

Eygalières is worth a visit, perhaps upon your return to St Remy from a day trip.

Patricia
PBProvence is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 07:42 AM
  #6  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you Stu and PBProvence!! I am going to go home tonight, pull out the map and regroup.

It looks as though
Sunday, after we arrive and check-in with our hotel, we can hit St. Remy and possibly even Les Baux.

Monday, possibly Isle sur la sorgue and lavender route hitting villages such as Bonnieux,Gordes and a few others (will have to look at a map as I'm not in front of one at the moment).

Tuesday, maybe take a long bike ride ... possibly back to St. Remy and Eygalieres

Wednesday ... will work on.

I have a feeling I won't fit all of the 'luberon' towns into 1 day. I'm hoping to hit at least some of them that will be along the lavender route.

Thanks again and I'll post once I get a better understanding (with a map) of what towns are where and how they fit into Stu's lavender route.

katzen is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 07:48 AM
  #7  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I forgot to ask .. which map should my sister and I purchase for driving around southern provence? Thank you!
katzen is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 08:38 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 24,295
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Get the Michelin map for Provence.
Underhill is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 08:53 AM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks Underhill!!
katzen is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 09:00 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 24,295
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You're very welcome. Have a wonderful trip.
Underhill is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 09:19 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Katzen...a bit of a warning. When driving from Gordes to the Abbey at Senanque you will encounter a narrown one lane road overlooking the Abbey...there are several places where one car can turn "off" to let the car coming the other way to proceed. Just be aware. Great views of the Abbey and its lavender fields from that vantage point, though. We were just there two weeks ago and of course, the lavender hadn't bloomed yet, but even the mature plants were beautiful to see, sans lavender colors. Suggest you continue on past the Abbey toward Venasque, a very quaint and picturesque village featured in the coffee table books on France's most beautiful villages... and great outcropping scenery along the way.Enjoy.
Stu T.
tower is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 09:26 AM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For a map, I preferred the Decouvertes Regionales Vaucluse Carte Touritique to the Michelin - the scale is 1/100,000 as opposed to 1/160,000
wombat7 is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 09:30 AM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oops Touristique
Sorry!
wombat7 is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 09:40 AM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Tower, thank you for the heads up! I am in the process of trying to find a good map. Of course our Borders doesn't carry the Michelin Provence Map.
Once I get a good driving map I'll be able to figure out a bit better our driving route .. but I really do hope to be able to make Venasque ... it sounds charming.

wombat7, thank for the recommendation. Do the bookstores carry this or Amazon? I've never heard of this map.

I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions once I regroup. My husband and sister aren't much help in the planning aspect of this trip ... so i've mainly been reading Fodors and guidbooks as well as posting a gazillion different threads on here.
katzen is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 09:42 AM
  #15  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
wombat7 .. I found it on Amazon but it looks as thought it's in French. Do you know if there is one in English? Thanks!
katzen is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 09:47 AM
  #16  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The Michelin Map I found ... is Michelin France Provence Alpes Cote D'azur (Map) published in January 2006. Could this be the most updated?
katzen is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 09:51 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It is in French and English. We went with the Michelin - found the other on our second day, bought it and did not use the Michelin again. Just so you know the area it covers;
SW Areles
NW Pierrelatte
Nw Vinon-sur-Verdon
NE is a bit wierd becuase that part of the map has the legend adn a high level overview - but the town is St Auban-s-l'Ouveze

To me the map is as easier read than the Michelin and becuase the scale is larger easier to see the little roads
W7
wombat7 is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 10:00 AM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,552
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 1 Post
Hi Patricia!!!

katzen, I stay every year in Eygalieres, so few tourists because there's not much in the way of tourists shops. Visit the old part where the bell tower is and chateau ruins and you can climb up there for a beautiful view. Bike to the chapelle St Sixte, visit the medicinal garden at The Mas De Brune. Stop for a pastis at "our" local, Le Progress.
cigalechanta is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 10:36 AM
  #19  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you cigalechanta!! Wow, all this great information .. I have got to find the darn map. I was using what I thought was a good map "Michelin France National" .. but it doesn't list all the different villages (at least the ones Stu D mentioned in his above post).

I am going to try and incorporate Roussillon, Gordes, Abbey Senanque, Bonnieux, Isle sur la sorgue and possibly venasque into Stu's driving tours (luberon and lavender) .. I'm just not sure if this can be done in 3.5 days and if so, when so that we can maximize the stores in each village while they are opened.

St. Remy, Les Baux and Eygalieres are close enough to where we are staying so I know we'll be able to fit them in.

Aix is too far south and with the traffic and it being a holiday weekend I'm thinking we may need to save it for next time.

katzen is offline  
Old May 16th, 2006, 11:33 AM
  #20  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Can anyone confirm that the Sault is having a lavender festival on August 14 and 15? I've read it two places ... one being a guide and the other on the website www.beyond.fr. If so, I think it would be great to go. Sault is a bit further north but can possibly be squeezed in??
Thanks
katzen is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -