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Old Feb 15th, 2016, 08:22 PM
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Budapest-Vienna in April

Hello, dear Fodorites!

It's so good to be back! BFF and I are in the infancy stages of planning this year's spring break adventure. Since the Zika virus put paid to our sun-filled dreams, we decided to accomplish some childhood ones instead: hers by going to Budapest, and mine by going to Vienna. And, since you all have never steered us wrong (who can forget your amazing recommendations in Puerto Rico, Bermuda, NOLA, etc.?), we are in the market for your faves.

We are deciding against getting a car this year (unless you all recommend otherwise), and instead we are travelling by train. We are flying into and out of Budapest, with a plan to spend time there before heading to Vienna. Beyond that, we are looking for suggestions for the following:

1. What to skip: Obviously we don't have time to see everything we would like to see. We love architecture, medieval, Baroque and WWII history, classical music, art, museums and culture (Really, these two cities are ideal for us), and we know we would need at least three weeks to do it all, not six days. So, what WOULDN'T you see, if you could do it over again? Or, what can you do in shorter than recommended times? (i.e. I hear Schönnbrunn takes a whole day, but does it really?)

2. Music: get a standing ticket to the opera in Vienna, or go to the Mozart and Strauss fest at Schönnbrunn? Or ... We want to do at least one classical music event.

3. Ruin bars in Budapest: guidebooks say go to Szimpla Kert, but is it too much of a tourist trap now?

4. Budapest baths: We will be here the second week in April, so will probably want the indoor ones. We are also a little shy ... Which indoor ones are better?

5. Musicians' apartments in Vienna: We are massive Beethoven fans. Is his worth visiting? Are the Strauss and Mozart ones worthy, too?

6. To Freud Museum or not to Freud Museum? (Read: Will we have nightmares about our dads if we go?)

7. How about coffee and cake recommendations in Vienna? What are some faves?

8. Which districts to stay in? We will likely do a hotel in Budapest but Air BnB in Vienna.

9. Good restaurants in Budapest for authentic Hungarian food?

10. Beer: What to drink? Where?

11. Finally, fill in the blank: if you had to pick just one art museum in Vienna, you'd pick ___________ because _____________.

FYI: we usually over plan, but that gives us options. In these two cities with this little time, we feel we need a lot of structure. Throw everything at us you've got!

Many, many thanks,

Kris
lazuliangel is offline  
Old Feb 16th, 2016, 02:34 AM
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1. Standing at the Opera. You just queue and get a ticket at that time to go in and stand (nothing you do in advance). Wear a scarf. You can tie it to the pole and hold a spot while you get a drink. It may sound cheesy, but I love to hear the Vienna Boys Choir sing mass (and I'm not Catholic).

2. Best ruin pub, Szimpla Kert. Just do this one. My opinion, no other ruin pub comes close. But walking thru the core of Budapest, you'll see others. Stop in for a drink.

3. For Hungarian food, I would do Hungarikum Bistro (reservations days in advance required). It's between St. Stephens and Parliament). Also Menza for lunch on Liszt Ferenc Ter. Cafe Kor near Szent Stephen's for lunch or dinner (not a cafe, a full restaurant). Dinner reservations at all 3 required.

4. Bath-Rudas (on coed days). I like the old Turkish baths. I go to Lukas, but Rudas is the more upscale version.

5. Budapest has a fantastic, affordable music scene. My favorite venues are the Franz Liszt Academy and the National Opera House (not the Ertzel). The best music, Ivan Fischer and the Budapest Festival Orchestra.

6. Stay in Pest near the river either by Parliament or down more by Liberty or in the Jewish neighborhood. I personally avoid Buda and the area near Deak Ter. I'm staying in Budapest the month of May. I stay in the 13th and will rent an apartment. That's my favorite neighborhood, less great for a tourist.
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Old Feb 16th, 2016, 05:48 PM
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Six days for both cities? BYHs. Sounds painful to me!

1. Schonnbrunn took me all day. YMMV.

11. The Kunsthistorisches Museum because of its outstanding collection and the truly gorgeous (IMO) Klimt stairwell.

Good luck!
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Old Feb 17th, 2016, 02:18 AM
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1. What to skip in Vienna? Anything that doesn't interest you. Seriously. Some people can spend two days in a museum or palace; others, two hours. Ditto for all of the other "must-see" in Vienna. I have slogged with friends and family through the museum/palace routes; and by day 2 I am asked to show them, "real Vienna."

Don't purchase a Vienna Card. For your short time frame you will likely not recover the cost. Skip the Ring Tram; it is an €8 dull ride around the ring with a headset. Sometimes, in between the tour buses, you can actually see some of the buildings being described.

3. Szimpla Kert is not touristy. Thankfully.

6. Only if you are truly a big fan.

7. Kleines Cafe and Cafe Schwarzenberg. Maybe Gerstner's by Opera if you can get a table. Skip Landtmann (expensive, and they charge for tap water) and Cafe Central (too big for their britches, mediocre food, and they top their pastries with the cafe logo. Tacky.)

8. 1st, 2nd (if close to the Inner Stadt); 3rd if near the ring; 4th, if close in. With your short time frame I wouldn't stay further out. Maybe something in the 7th if it's in the Spittelberg area.

11. I would choose the Kunsthistorisches Museum, except on Mondays when it is closed. The collection is outstanding; the ticket is a good value (access to the Neue Berg museums as well, though even just walking around in the palace is worth it); and, starting next month, the museum is opening its 125th anniversary exhibit that will include spectacular works from other museums. And speaking of tickets, do buy them online if possible to avoid the queues.

Happy Planning!
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Old Feb 17th, 2016, 03:38 PM
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Two more questions, Fodorites:

1) Is it more prudent to buy our train tickets in advance (and is it true the travel time between the two cities is two and a half hours)?

2) Are we better off doing our Budapest days split up or back to back? We were thinking of spending the day we land and the day before we fly out, bookend style, but would we be better off just going straight to Vienna and then coming back to Budapest at the end of the week?
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Old Feb 17th, 2016, 04:36 PM
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Yes, it's about 2 1/2 hours.

I never buy train tickets in advance out of Budapest, but you might want to.

I would visit Budapest first then move to Vienna. I prefer to walk around after a long flight. Not ride in a train for a few hours.
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Old Feb 17th, 2016, 07:05 PM
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Second 2) -- no! Fly into one city and out of the other, or if you've already booked your flights, put all of your time at your departure destination in the days leading up to your flight. Otherwise, you are adding an extra hotel stay (with time for checking in / out, packing / unpacking, etc.) to your very limited time. You have precious little time to visit these two magnificent cities -- anything you can do to maximize the time you have to actually see and experience them is worth considering.
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Old Feb 24th, 2016, 04:25 PM
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If you are interested in art, the Kuntschistoriche Museum in Vienna is absolutely imperative. I found the SRO line for the Opera in Vienna to be a bust. A kazillion asian students were in line and it was a no go (September 2015). I'm going to be in Vienna in April and will buy train tix to Budapest when there. I will also buy opera tix for Vienna before I go. It's impossible to get to the opera in Vienna without advance tickets, after having tried once (fall 2015) already. I'll get there this year, and then on to Budapest (without advance train tickets). BTW, Shonbrunn takes all day. It's very engrossing.
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Old Feb 24th, 2016, 04:32 PM
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Agree to do pen jaw flights - into Budapest and return form Vienna - or vice versa to avoid wasting a whole day just returning to your starting point.
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Old Feb 24th, 2016, 05:30 PM
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Check, when you buy your train ticket from Budapest to Vienna, to see if local transport in Vienna is included in the price of your ticket. Mine was but it was several years ago.
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Old Feb 24th, 2016, 07:27 PM
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Schonbrunn can be see in a few hours. It does not have to take all day. From the center of Vienna it is about 20 minutes on the subway. If you want to go, get there early and take one of the audio tours. It is not necessary to see everything on the grounds which would take at least a day. Once inside the palace you follow a route through certain rooms.

Cafes: Demel; Sacher Hotel for Sacher torte, which some love and others don't For inexpensive coffee and pastry the Aida shops are all over towns.

Kuntschistoriche Museum in Vienna is one of the top museums. However, check the websites of the various museums to see what special exhibits are on when you will be there. that may make a difference in what you select
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