Bruge-A fantastic four days!
Apr 4th, 2011, 11:40 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bruge-A fantastic four days!
I always appreciate the information on this forum so I try and give back.
Sorry this is long but it is also my own trip report to keep with my photo albums...
March 22- Had an unbelievable easy drive from Connecticut to JFK. Every time we have flown out of JFK we have sat for hours in traffic on the Van Wyck. My husband decided to try a new route and we breezed right in. This was the easiest beginning to one of our vacations ever. Check in at AA was wonderful. The agents could not have been nicer and when we told her our breeze in this time versus every previous trip in, she looked at us and asked, “Haven’t you ever watched Seinfeld? They are always joking, ‘Everything was going along just fine until we hit the Van Wyck!’” Too funny. Now we know.
The flight was practically empty. Both my husband and I ended up with our own row (one in front of the other) and our daughter and niece shared a row. The flight was just fine and the attendants were wonderful.
March 23-Arrived in Brussels on time at 6:40 AM. We headed to the train where we purchased 2 adult tickets to Bruge, with a change in Gent. I had pre-purchased my niece’s (14) train ticket (Go Pass) before leaving home. We paid half price for it that way. The train ride was easy. Arrived in Bruge around 9:30. I called the owner of the home we had rented to let him know we were on our way. As we neared the exit of the station, we came upon a little food shop and quickly scanned the shelves in search of Chocomel. 12 Euros later there were four happy people, with very big smiles, topped off with brown mustaches! Out the door we went and grabbed a waiting taxi. 15 minutes later we were at the door of our new home for the next four days, “de Hoedenmaker.” The owner was there waiting for us upon our arrival and greeted us warmly. Upon walking in, we were all thrilled. The pictures on line do not do it justice. It really is a lovely, warm, comfortable and functional home. It is located a ten minute walk from Markt, but in a quiet residential area. The home has two bedrooms (one with a queen, the other two twins that can be pushed together). There is also a loft accessed via the queen bedroom that was a twin trundle bed. There is a full bath upstairs and a very small half bath located downstairs. The kitchen had been fully remodeled and was wonderful. There was a cozy living room, free wifi, and a lovely little side courtyard. One of my favorite things was listening to the church bells ring on Sunday morning. I would stay here again in a New York minute!
After getting settled, my niece and I headed out to the Markt Square as we had seen the market was there when we drove in. My husband and daughter stayed behind to unwind a bit. Bruge really is everything you read about it, historic, romantic, fairytale-ish and yes touristy (but that did not detract from our trip). Unfortunately 10 minutes into our outing we came upon a horrible scene of an accident where a city worker had been killed. He was still lying under the street sweeping vehicle as we passed by. A heartbreaking sight, but one that reminds you of how precious life is and why it is so important to live life as though it is your last day...
As we passed by store front after store front with displays of delicious looking pastries and chocolates and bottles of beer I knew we had come to the right place for vacation. The market was wonderful. It is always one of my favorite things to do when on vacation. Again, there were pastries and breads, meats and sausages, cheeses and foi gras, flowers and plants and the seemingly out of place, chinese food stand (although it looked delicious). We happily wondered through, taking pictures and sampling some of the delicious items. My niece and I were both in Heaven! As our bellies were now aching for food, we headed back to the house to round up the other two so we could grab some food, and a beer of course. We walked back to the Markt, and against everything I had read chose to eat at one of the restaurants right there (De Carre) as we wanted to the view of the Belfry and my daughter wanted to watch the horse carriages go by. The food was OK but the service was bad.
This leads me to the two biggest issues we had while traveling...the water and the tip. I found it so very frustrating that the only water to be had was 7 Euro bottled water. We all drink a lot of water and so needless to say, this got rather expensive. The tip was another very frustrating part. Some restaurants, this one in particular, verbally told us that, “service is included but the tip is not.” Other restaurants, which I shall mention shortly, never even afforded you the opportunity to add a tip as they stick with the feeling that the service is included.
We walked around some more and then feeling tired headed back to the house again where both kids fell fast asleep. My husband had already napped but I knew better so I grabbed the shopping bag and headed out to the local supermarket to pick up some supplies. The streets in Bruge are tricky, to say the least, and it is a very good thing I had a map. My niece and I had also noticed that the spire on top of the church that was located a block over had a rooster on it, which led us home more than once...
The owners had very kindly supplied coffee, cream, sugar, a few bottles of beer and some Chocomel but I wanted some more breakfast items and of course more beer and definitely more Cecemel (Chocomel’s name in Belgium). I love the local supermarkets and this one was very clean and very well stocked. I already was feeling like a local, walking home with my groceries, through the winding cobblestone streets of Bruge...
I knew that by the time dinner time rolled around we would all be quite tired and hungry. The owners had told us about the restaurant, Tom’s Diner, that was literally 37 steps from our front door, so decided to check it out. I walked in and asked if we could make a reservation. The hostess/waitress was very nice and said no problems just to come back at 6:30 and she would have a table for us. At 6:30 we walked into what felt like an old, quaint, cozy farmhouse. The food was very good, the ambience perfect, and the service excellent. This was one of the restaurants that upon receiving our bill, ran our credit card and handed the slip over to us to sign. There was absolutely no mention of a tip. We did however leave a few extra Euros and announced that we would be back the following night if they had a table.
37 steps later we were at the door, 12 more steps upstairs, and all four of us collapsed, having a wonderful night’s sleep!
Sorry this is long but it is also my own trip report to keep with my photo albums...
March 22- Had an unbelievable easy drive from Connecticut to JFK. Every time we have flown out of JFK we have sat for hours in traffic on the Van Wyck. My husband decided to try a new route and we breezed right in. This was the easiest beginning to one of our vacations ever. Check in at AA was wonderful. The agents could not have been nicer and when we told her our breeze in this time versus every previous trip in, she looked at us and asked, “Haven’t you ever watched Seinfeld? They are always joking, ‘Everything was going along just fine until we hit the Van Wyck!’” Too funny. Now we know.
The flight was practically empty. Both my husband and I ended up with our own row (one in front of the other) and our daughter and niece shared a row. The flight was just fine and the attendants were wonderful.
March 23-Arrived in Brussels on time at 6:40 AM. We headed to the train where we purchased 2 adult tickets to Bruge, with a change in Gent. I had pre-purchased my niece’s (14) train ticket (Go Pass) before leaving home. We paid half price for it that way. The train ride was easy. Arrived in Bruge around 9:30. I called the owner of the home we had rented to let him know we were on our way. As we neared the exit of the station, we came upon a little food shop and quickly scanned the shelves in search of Chocomel. 12 Euros later there were four happy people, with very big smiles, topped off with brown mustaches! Out the door we went and grabbed a waiting taxi. 15 minutes later we were at the door of our new home for the next four days, “de Hoedenmaker.” The owner was there waiting for us upon our arrival and greeted us warmly. Upon walking in, we were all thrilled. The pictures on line do not do it justice. It really is a lovely, warm, comfortable and functional home. It is located a ten minute walk from Markt, but in a quiet residential area. The home has two bedrooms (one with a queen, the other two twins that can be pushed together). There is also a loft accessed via the queen bedroom that was a twin trundle bed. There is a full bath upstairs and a very small half bath located downstairs. The kitchen had been fully remodeled and was wonderful. There was a cozy living room, free wifi, and a lovely little side courtyard. One of my favorite things was listening to the church bells ring on Sunday morning. I would stay here again in a New York minute!
After getting settled, my niece and I headed out to the Markt Square as we had seen the market was there when we drove in. My husband and daughter stayed behind to unwind a bit. Bruge really is everything you read about it, historic, romantic, fairytale-ish and yes touristy (but that did not detract from our trip). Unfortunately 10 minutes into our outing we came upon a horrible scene of an accident where a city worker had been killed. He was still lying under the street sweeping vehicle as we passed by. A heartbreaking sight, but one that reminds you of how precious life is and why it is so important to live life as though it is your last day...
As we passed by store front after store front with displays of delicious looking pastries and chocolates and bottles of beer I knew we had come to the right place for vacation. The market was wonderful. It is always one of my favorite things to do when on vacation. Again, there were pastries and breads, meats and sausages, cheeses and foi gras, flowers and plants and the seemingly out of place, chinese food stand (although it looked delicious). We happily wondered through, taking pictures and sampling some of the delicious items. My niece and I were both in Heaven! As our bellies were now aching for food, we headed back to the house to round up the other two so we could grab some food, and a beer of course. We walked back to the Markt, and against everything I had read chose to eat at one of the restaurants right there (De Carre) as we wanted to the view of the Belfry and my daughter wanted to watch the horse carriages go by. The food was OK but the service was bad.
This leads me to the two biggest issues we had while traveling...the water and the tip. I found it so very frustrating that the only water to be had was 7 Euro bottled water. We all drink a lot of water and so needless to say, this got rather expensive. The tip was another very frustrating part. Some restaurants, this one in particular, verbally told us that, “service is included but the tip is not.” Other restaurants, which I shall mention shortly, never even afforded you the opportunity to add a tip as they stick with the feeling that the service is included.
We walked around some more and then feeling tired headed back to the house again where both kids fell fast asleep. My husband had already napped but I knew better so I grabbed the shopping bag and headed out to the local supermarket to pick up some supplies. The streets in Bruge are tricky, to say the least, and it is a very good thing I had a map. My niece and I had also noticed that the spire on top of the church that was located a block over had a rooster on it, which led us home more than once...
The owners had very kindly supplied coffee, cream, sugar, a few bottles of beer and some Chocomel but I wanted some more breakfast items and of course more beer and definitely more Cecemel (Chocomel’s name in Belgium). I love the local supermarkets and this one was very clean and very well stocked. I already was feeling like a local, walking home with my groceries, through the winding cobblestone streets of Bruge...
I knew that by the time dinner time rolled around we would all be quite tired and hungry. The owners had told us about the restaurant, Tom’s Diner, that was literally 37 steps from our front door, so decided to check it out. I walked in and asked if we could make a reservation. The hostess/waitress was very nice and said no problems just to come back at 6:30 and she would have a table for us. At 6:30 we walked into what felt like an old, quaint, cozy farmhouse. The food was very good, the ambience perfect, and the service excellent. This was one of the restaurants that upon receiving our bill, ran our credit card and handed the slip over to us to sign. There was absolutely no mention of a tip. We did however leave a few extra Euros and announced that we would be back the following night if they had a table.
37 steps later we were at the door, 12 more steps upstairs, and all four of us collapsed, having a wonderful night’s sleep!
Apr 4th, 2011, 11:46 AM
#2
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How was the weather? Good friends of ours went to Bruge in winter and said they actually preferred it, as there seemed to be very few tourists. So nice you could bring your niece, I'm sure she loved the trip. Looking forward to the next installment.
Apr 5th, 2011, 03:52 AM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dazed- Would you believe me if I said it was sunny and beautiful, high 50s, everyday but one and that day was overcast in the low 50s with a bit of wind, especially as you got out into the countryside. There were definitely tourists, enough that we mentioned that we would hate to see it in the height of tourist season.
Apr 5th, 2011, 06:15 AM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
March 24- I woke up to a bright blue sky... the same as yesterday. The others in my party were dead to the world so I got up, had my morning glass of Cecemel and headed out (around 10 AM). I walked up along the canals and winded this way and that, taking in the sights, heading in the direction of Grote Markt. Every turn of the street brought me to another spot I couldn’t resist but photograph. I kept putting my camera away, thinking I could blend in more as a local but to no avail. I was taking pictures every few hundred feet. I spent a few hours wandering the back streets of Bruges, finally making my way to the Markt once again, only to turn around and go back to get the rest of my family up. I know travel to Europe is difficult but we only had a few days and I was not about to let them all sleep their time there away.
I got back to the house, got them all moving and we headed back out. Of course they wanted to go along the same route I had just taken because I had sat and spoke about how charming it was...
We headed out at lunch time and by the time we had actually made it to where there were restaurants, we were all starving, especially those of them that had had no breakfast. We had made the decision to absolutely avoid the Markt again and decided to walk down Geldmunstraat. As we walked further, we grew hungrier, passing waffle stands, ice cream stores, patisseries, etc. We passed by this lovely looking restaurant (Cafe au Lait), that was seemingly almost empty inside and decided that was where we were going to eat. This was a great decision...our lunch was fantastic (Quiche Lorraine, waffles mit slag, cheese croquettes, croque monsieur), service was top notch and the prices were just right! It really was a lovely restaurant.
After lunch we continued down Geldmunstraat to t’Zand square. This area seemed to be where the young crowd hung out. The concert hall really stood out and was not so impressive. We continued on down through the park. It was warm enough now that we had to take our coats off. The park was filled with people playing sports, taking in the day, and getting away from the crowds. This was a lovely walk that we continued on along a canal towards Minnewater Park. Minnewater park is beautiful and definitely worth taking the time to stroll through.
On to the beguine...a not to be missed spot. This day the courtyard with it’s white houses and red tiled roofs was lit up in yellow with thousands of daffodils in full bloom. Couple this with the electric blue sky; I could not have asked for better photo ops than that. Upon entering the church, you aren’t blown away by the sheer beauty as you are in some of the other churches in Bruges, but you are hit with a sense of history in this church. We light a candle for my father, one of many that we will, but this one has the most meaning. Maybe because it is the first church we have entered back on the soil of his birth, maybe it’s because of the history of this church or maybe it’s simply because I am there with his two granddaughters (who he adored) and I know that he is there with us...
We continue now on a mission to find chocolates. We happen upon another lovely square where De Halve Maan Brewery is located. There is a Dumon Chocolatier there and we load up on chocolates-the woman was not so friendly but the chocolates were very good. We all agreed the lime and chili chocolate was the best. We sit at a restaurant, enjoy a beer outside while listening to the clopping of hooves of the many horse carriages passing by. We poke our heads in the brewery, it looks like a great place and then head out again.
The streets were getting thicker with tourists as we neared closer to the center of town. I noticed on my map that the Chocolate Line was near by and although we had already had quite a few I announced we would need to make another stop at yet a other chocolate store. Needless to say my girls were thrilled! The Chocolate Line was the best of the stores we tried. It reminded me of Joel Durand in St Remy, France.
Once back home and after a long day of walking, we decided to enjoy the 37 steps to Tom’s for dinner again. The experience was wonderful again. Dessert that night (back at home) was a chocolate tasting. We sampled all the wild flavors. Our favorites turned out to be lemongrass, chili, lavender and for me sake. The mint, orange and raspberry all got high praise too as they tasted like fresh ingredients, not the fake flavorings many times used. I will note that while I know that bacon and chocolate has become quite the culinary fascination, in all of our opinions, it was downright awful!
It was another wonderful day!
I got back to the house, got them all moving and we headed back out. Of course they wanted to go along the same route I had just taken because I had sat and spoke about how charming it was...
We headed out at lunch time and by the time we had actually made it to where there were restaurants, we were all starving, especially those of them that had had no breakfast. We had made the decision to absolutely avoid the Markt again and decided to walk down Geldmunstraat. As we walked further, we grew hungrier, passing waffle stands, ice cream stores, patisseries, etc. We passed by this lovely looking restaurant (Cafe au Lait), that was seemingly almost empty inside and decided that was where we were going to eat. This was a great decision...our lunch was fantastic (Quiche Lorraine, waffles mit slag, cheese croquettes, croque monsieur), service was top notch and the prices were just right! It really was a lovely restaurant.
After lunch we continued down Geldmunstraat to t’Zand square. This area seemed to be where the young crowd hung out. The concert hall really stood out and was not so impressive. We continued on down through the park. It was warm enough now that we had to take our coats off. The park was filled with people playing sports, taking in the day, and getting away from the crowds. This was a lovely walk that we continued on along a canal towards Minnewater Park. Minnewater park is beautiful and definitely worth taking the time to stroll through.
On to the beguine...a not to be missed spot. This day the courtyard with it’s white houses and red tiled roofs was lit up in yellow with thousands of daffodils in full bloom. Couple this with the electric blue sky; I could not have asked for better photo ops than that. Upon entering the church, you aren’t blown away by the sheer beauty as you are in some of the other churches in Bruges, but you are hit with a sense of history in this church. We light a candle for my father, one of many that we will, but this one has the most meaning. Maybe because it is the first church we have entered back on the soil of his birth, maybe it’s because of the history of this church or maybe it’s simply because I am there with his two granddaughters (who he adored) and I know that he is there with us...
We continue now on a mission to find chocolates. We happen upon another lovely square where De Halve Maan Brewery is located. There is a Dumon Chocolatier there and we load up on chocolates-the woman was not so friendly but the chocolates were very good. We all agreed the lime and chili chocolate was the best. We sit at a restaurant, enjoy a beer outside while listening to the clopping of hooves of the many horse carriages passing by. We poke our heads in the brewery, it looks like a great place and then head out again.
The streets were getting thicker with tourists as we neared closer to the center of town. I noticed on my map that the Chocolate Line was near by and although we had already had quite a few I announced we would need to make another stop at yet a other chocolate store. Needless to say my girls were thrilled! The Chocolate Line was the best of the stores we tried. It reminded me of Joel Durand in St Remy, France.
Once back home and after a long day of walking, we decided to enjoy the 37 steps to Tom’s for dinner again. The experience was wonderful again. Dessert that night (back at home) was a chocolate tasting. We sampled all the wild flavors. Our favorites turned out to be lemongrass, chili, lavender and for me sake. The mint, orange and raspberry all got high praise too as they tasted like fresh ingredients, not the fake flavorings many times used. I will note that while I know that bacon and chocolate has become quite the culinary fascination, in all of our opinions, it was downright awful!
It was another wonderful day!
Apr 5th, 2011, 08:08 AM
#7
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,040
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
odie1, I am enjoying your trip report. Would you mind telling me what route you drove from Connecticut to JFK? We live in Trumbull, and for international flights JFK is our airport.
My husband and I have been to Brugge, but this June we are taking our son and his family. Tom's Diner is on my list. Would you mind posting the dinners your family enjoyed there?
Cafe au Lait located on Noordzandstraat,is also on my "short" list. Did you eat inside or outside on the terrace?
My husband and I have been to Brugge, but this June we are taking our son and his family. Tom's Diner is on my list. Would you mind posting the dinners your family enjoyed there?
Cafe au Lait located on Noordzandstraat,is also on my "short" list. Did you eat inside or outside on the terrace?
Apr 6th, 2011, 04:00 AM
#8
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello Odie - As you have raised the meal/ tipping issue I hope you don't mind if I break in and give my own experience. I was in Brugge about the same time (and BTW was very pleased with my hotel choice, the Loreto on Katelijnestraat, between the station and the Markt). Had one of the most pleasant dining experiences of my trip just along the street at De Postiljon restaurant (which has been around for 18 years apparently, but which I don't recall seeing mentioned in any of my guide books) - just three of its basic courses (which was what I was after - the lead dish at the place I originally had in mind turned out to be Australian steak, which I can have anytime) - a tasty chicory soup, a very nice Flemish stew (with plums), and a creme caramel, which together with a beer and the usual bread and I think a chocolate came to 22,45 euros - no suggestion of tipping and I was glad to round up to 25. The night before I also had a Flemish stew at the newly opened and very welcoming restaurant The Habit (opposite the The Hobbit which has been around quite a while I believe) in Kemelstraat, both of which were recommended for good basic meals and beer by a helpful young woman serving in an exquisite patisserie, Schaeverbeke, on Schaarstraat, slightly off the tourist track. A large plate of the stew and a beer, together with bread and a complimentary shrimp starter came to 19,35, again with no suggestion of a tip and I parted with 22.
Apr 6th, 2011, 04:58 AM
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
kane-
we took the throg's neck to Coss Island to Belt Parkway and we sailed right in. Did the same on our way home and no problems. I will never travel the Van Wyck again!
Tom's Diner meals-the Irish steak (which was the only disappointment as it was a bit tough but we have an amazing butcher in our little town so I am spoiled), salad of warm proscuttio in a balsamic glaze, my 8 year old had the carpaccio both nights with a side of frites and loved it, my niece had the meatloaf the first night and thought it delicious and she also had carpaccio and then split the pasta with my husband (who had gotten it the night before) and loved it. The portions are huge.
You will enjoy Cafe au Lait. We sat inside both days only because it was quiet and quaint.
Farreermog-
No worries jumping in. I'm glad you enjoyed your meals and didn't have anyone pushing you to include a tip. I did notice that any of the locals, or native speakers, were not being pushed for a tip.
I am working on the next installment now....
we took the throg's neck to Coss Island to Belt Parkway and we sailed right in. Did the same on our way home and no problems. I will never travel the Van Wyck again!
Tom's Diner meals-the Irish steak (which was the only disappointment as it was a bit tough but we have an amazing butcher in our little town so I am spoiled), salad of warm proscuttio in a balsamic glaze, my 8 year old had the carpaccio both nights with a side of frites and loved it, my niece had the meatloaf the first night and thought it delicious and she also had carpaccio and then split the pasta with my husband (who had gotten it the night before) and loved it. The portions are huge.
You will enjoy Cafe au Lait. We sat inside both days only because it was quiet and quaint.
Farreermog-
No worries jumping in. I'm glad you enjoyed your meals and didn't have anyone pushing you to include a tip. I did notice that any of the locals, or native speakers, were not being pushed for a tip.
I am working on the next installment now....
Apr 6th, 2011, 11:29 AM
#10
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,009
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I love Brugge. I've spent a total of just over 3 weeks there and have loved every minute of it. I usually go during "off season" when the city is quieter.
I had dinner at Tom's Diner on Christmas Eve one year...it was a great experience. It's nice to hear that it's still a good place to visit! And Dumon is my favorite chocolate shop. I prefer the caramels...heavenly.
i_am_kane --
For breakfast one morning, I recommend Carpe Diem tea room near Minnewater.
I had dinner at Tom's Diner on Christmas Eve one year...it was a great experience. It's nice to hear that it's still a good place to visit! And Dumon is my favorite chocolate shop. I prefer the caramels...heavenly.
i_am_kane --
For breakfast one morning, I recommend Carpe Diem tea room near Minnewater.
Apr 6th, 2011, 04:32 PM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
March 25-We woke up to another beautiful day and headed out. First stop... the Chocolate Museum. This is a rather interesting museum, if you like chocolate or even history. There was a lot of information there and we all thought very well displayed. It does involve quite a bit of reading, and for little ones it might not be as interesting. My daughter enjoyed the children’s version of the signs that made reading fun. The short movie was very informative and the demonstration at the end was fascinating. Do not miss the Chocolate Obama, although they told us they do not know how long it will be around.
From there my niece said she would like to go and see the Basilica of the Holy Blood. She had excellent timing as there was a mass exodus happening upon our arrival. We went right in and basically walked right up to where the vial was on display. Each person was able to lay their hands on top of the glass container that the vial is in and say a prayer. Ten minutes after we walked in a bell rang, a lady came with a lockbox took the vial away and announced they were closing, but not before we could light another candle...
Lunch today was at a restaurant we happened upon, ‘t Eekhoetje. We sat outside in the courtyard, which was nice but the food and the service were not so good. The waffle especially was very mushy having been doused with fresh fruit (even though we asked for it on the side). The panini of the house was good, the cheese croquettes fine but nothing memorable and definitely not worth another visit.
Next stop was Gruuthuse. This was a bit of a disappointment. It was not exactly like it was described, I think maybe there were some displays missing, but the highlight was going into the family’s private viewing area of the Church of Our Lady. This had a beautiful view looking down into the church. We all determined that that alone was worth it.
From here we walked around the back side of Gruuthuse, stopping in the Museum store. The grounds on the side here are not to be missed. They really are spectacular and there are some wonderful photo ops. We continued around to the front of the Church of Our Lady to see the Michelangelo. This church elicits that jaw dropping moment when you enter. The architecture and art pieces alone are a definite must see. Once again, we felt very lucky as there was really no one blocking the view of the Madonna and Child and we were able to take some terrific photographs of it. We did not pay to go back into the museum part of it but I am sure that would have been worth it. Another candle lit...
We headed across the street and contemplated a trip into the hospital museum but walked through to the courtyard in the rear. It was like walking into another world. The noise of the streets and the masses of people were no where to be seen or heard. We sat on a bench in the sun, relaxing and enjoying the magnificent surroundings; my daughter trying very hard to capture a picture of a lady bug. In the rush to not want to miss a thing, you often forget how enjoyable it is to stop and sit and just take in your experience.
My nephew was arriving by bus from Amsterdam so we decided to see if we could meet up with him at the train station. We still had about 45 minutes to kill so I suggested a snack of a waffle for the kids and a beer for the adults. We had seen signs for “Rail City” quite a few times over the last few days and again saw another one so we followed it around the corner. Much to our delight, there were three restaurants, with outside seating and the “Rail City.” A miniature train set up that my daughter, and my husband, loved.
There was some miscommunication as to where to meet my nephew, and after a very long diversion on our part (all the way down to the other side of Minnewater park), we returned to the Train Station, which as it turns out is also the bus station
but we got there later than his bus was due to arrive. My husband and niece quickly went ahead to the Markt to try and catch him there, in case he had received an email we had sent. My daughter and I were slower to walk and since we figured we were lacking in speed we would stop at the Chocolate Line again to refuel and to reward us for all the trekking we had done that day! Boy was it worth it...more of our favorites from the night before plus some new ones.
Back at the Markt there had been no sign of our nephew so we decided to return to the house as I had sent him the link. Rounding the corner of Hoedenmakerstraat, our doorway was empty. I had some concerns as to whether he would know where to go and since he did not have a cell phone, I had more concerns. But, I should have known that he had printed out the directions before he left. His bus was an hour late and he had been shooting photographs along the walk to the house. My box of chocolates quickly disappeared, along with a few beers, and back out we went for our dinner reservation at Park. By now it was getting dusk and the lighting was perfect for photographs. We walked along a way we had not been yet, past where the fish market is held and down to Astridpark.
Dinner at Park was wonderful, the coq au vin was especially delicious. The owner was very welcoming and sociable. The only complaint we would have had was once again, the bill came and the owner placed the machine in front of my husband and said, “Just follow the directions,” and sure enough it came up to add a tip. Meanwhile, I had watched him bring the check to another couple, whom were locals or at least from the area and he did not do the same thing. He merely swiped the card and handed them the bill to sign. We did end up leaving an extra 10 Euros (on an almost $200 Euro bill) but I I didn’t appreciate how it came about.
The walk home that night was magical. Entering both the Burg and Markt, there were maybe 10 people there, all of whom were shooting photos. We eagerly joined and managed to get a few nice shots but we were weary from the long day and didn’t have the stamina to wait for the perfect moment.
Back home, once the young one was asleep, we popped in the movie “In Bruges,” which my husband and I had watched before we left but it was fun to see all the places that we had been to over the last few days. It was a great way to end another spectacular day in Bruges!
From there my niece said she would like to go and see the Basilica of the Holy Blood. She had excellent timing as there was a mass exodus happening upon our arrival. We went right in and basically walked right up to where the vial was on display. Each person was able to lay their hands on top of the glass container that the vial is in and say a prayer. Ten minutes after we walked in a bell rang, a lady came with a lockbox took the vial away and announced they were closing, but not before we could light another candle...
Lunch today was at a restaurant we happened upon, ‘t Eekhoetje. We sat outside in the courtyard, which was nice but the food and the service were not so good. The waffle especially was very mushy having been doused with fresh fruit (even though we asked for it on the side). The panini of the house was good, the cheese croquettes fine but nothing memorable and definitely not worth another visit.
Next stop was Gruuthuse. This was a bit of a disappointment. It was not exactly like it was described, I think maybe there were some displays missing, but the highlight was going into the family’s private viewing area of the Church of Our Lady. This had a beautiful view looking down into the church. We all determined that that alone was worth it.
From here we walked around the back side of Gruuthuse, stopping in the Museum store. The grounds on the side here are not to be missed. They really are spectacular and there are some wonderful photo ops. We continued around to the front of the Church of Our Lady to see the Michelangelo. This church elicits that jaw dropping moment when you enter. The architecture and art pieces alone are a definite must see. Once again, we felt very lucky as there was really no one blocking the view of the Madonna and Child and we were able to take some terrific photographs of it. We did not pay to go back into the museum part of it but I am sure that would have been worth it. Another candle lit...
We headed across the street and contemplated a trip into the hospital museum but walked through to the courtyard in the rear. It was like walking into another world. The noise of the streets and the masses of people were no where to be seen or heard. We sat on a bench in the sun, relaxing and enjoying the magnificent surroundings; my daughter trying very hard to capture a picture of a lady bug. In the rush to not want to miss a thing, you often forget how enjoyable it is to stop and sit and just take in your experience.
My nephew was arriving by bus from Amsterdam so we decided to see if we could meet up with him at the train station. We still had about 45 minutes to kill so I suggested a snack of a waffle for the kids and a beer for the adults. We had seen signs for “Rail City” quite a few times over the last few days and again saw another one so we followed it around the corner. Much to our delight, there were three restaurants, with outside seating and the “Rail City.” A miniature train set up that my daughter, and my husband, loved.
There was some miscommunication as to where to meet my nephew, and after a very long diversion on our part (all the way down to the other side of Minnewater park), we returned to the Train Station, which as it turns out is also the bus station
but we got there later than his bus was due to arrive. My husband and niece quickly went ahead to the Markt to try and catch him there, in case he had received an email we had sent. My daughter and I were slower to walk and since we figured we were lacking in speed we would stop at the Chocolate Line again to refuel and to reward us for all the trekking we had done that day! Boy was it worth it...more of our favorites from the night before plus some new ones.Back at the Markt there had been no sign of our nephew so we decided to return to the house as I had sent him the link. Rounding the corner of Hoedenmakerstraat, our doorway was empty. I had some concerns as to whether he would know where to go and since he did not have a cell phone, I had more concerns. But, I should have known that he had printed out the directions before he left. His bus was an hour late and he had been shooting photographs along the walk to the house. My box of chocolates quickly disappeared, along with a few beers, and back out we went for our dinner reservation at Park. By now it was getting dusk and the lighting was perfect for photographs. We walked along a way we had not been yet, past where the fish market is held and down to Astridpark.
Dinner at Park was wonderful, the coq au vin was especially delicious. The owner was very welcoming and sociable. The only complaint we would have had was once again, the bill came and the owner placed the machine in front of my husband and said, “Just follow the directions,” and sure enough it came up to add a tip. Meanwhile, I had watched him bring the check to another couple, whom were locals or at least from the area and he did not do the same thing. He merely swiped the card and handed them the bill to sign. We did end up leaving an extra 10 Euros (on an almost $200 Euro bill) but I I didn’t appreciate how it came about.
The walk home that night was magical. Entering both the Burg and Markt, there were maybe 10 people there, all of whom were shooting photos. We eagerly joined and managed to get a few nice shots but we were weary from the long day and didn’t have the stamina to wait for the perfect moment.
Back home, once the young one was asleep, we popped in the movie “In Bruges,” which my husband and I had watched before we left but it was fun to see all the places that we had been to over the last few days. It was a great way to end another spectacular day in Bruges!
Apr 9th, 2011, 06:10 AM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
March 26-
We woke up to overcast skies, a bit of wind and chillier temperatures but none of us were complaining. We had planned ahead to do a bike ride with Quasimundo Bike Tours, through the countryside to Damme. We were scheduled to meet at the Burg at 1:00 so it was nice we had some time beforehand to head out again. Trying to rally three kids, so to speak, is not an easy task, and I hate to say we did not step foot out of the house until 10:30 but we actually didn’t end up leaving until around 11:00 as I locked us out of the house...oops! Thank goodness I had a cell phone and the owners telephone number or else I have no idea what we would have done. The owners showed up five minutes after calling them. They were such wonderful people and again would recommend this home whole-heartedly!
We had so much enjoyed our lunch at Cafe au Lait that we decided to return there for lunch, even though it was in the complete opposite direction of where we were to meet but the waffles were that good! We were not disappointed and the staff could not have been nicer when we explained that we were on a bit of a time crunch. After another delicious meal of waffles with fruit, cheese croquettes, toasted ham and cheese sandwiches topped with eggs, we were ready for our ride. We decided that we needed some chocolate, you know to keep us fueled for the ride, and headed to the chocolate store right in the Burg. Unfortunately there was only one lady working and some customers who were so unbelievably indecisive that we couldn’t wait any longer and left without it. I promised my daughter we would fuel her up in Damme. Jos, the owner of Quasimundo, showed up on time. It turned out there was only one other girl riding with us as the other people who had reserved a spot never showed...great for us, unfortunate for Jos. Se headed over to the warehouse and all quickly got fitted with a terrific bike and a helmet for our daughter.
I must admit, after walking around Bruges the previous days, I was apprehensive about riding on even one block of streets but it was perfectly fine. By now the weather had changed and had certainly become chillier and much, much windier. I had thought ahead and made sure that everyone had gloves with them for just such an occasion and was thankful I did as the kids used them.
First stop was the windmills. Jos was a fantastic guide with a terrific sense of humor. Later in the day, over a beer, he mentioned he had been a photojournalist in a previous life. He certainly knows his history which made for a very informative bike ride. Two years previous, we had been to Kinderdijk in Holland (also a UNESCO WHS) which was fantastic and difficult to top but it was interesting to see how these windmills are different. Once over the major roadway we rode along a tree lined canal. Jos said Napoleon had planted most of the trees along the canals as wind-breaks. We continued on past beautiful old farms whose green fields were being grazed by enormous Belgian draft horses. There were some spectacular properties along the ride.
We were riding head-on into a very stiff wind which made it difficult for our daughter to keep up, but in reality, I enjoyed the slower pace and didn’t mind bringing up the rear! Upon entering Damme, Jos gave us a good history of this town and its importance as a port, long ago. He also had some nice visuals showing satellite views of the star-shaped fortification...most interesting. In the distance, high on a hill, looming over daffodil filled fields seemingly alive with the hopping of hundreds of cottontail rabbits, stood an enormous 12th century church, beckoning you to visit. The closer we rode, the more magnificent it became. By the time we entered the courtyard, we had all agreed that the ride was well worth it, even the extra effort we all had to put forth in the headwinds. The church and it’s grounds were quite a vision, especially for those of us who enjoy photography.
Once in the center of Damme we stop at the city hall. This building is quite ornate and is certainly a testament to the wealth that was a part of this once thriving city, now a village, albeit a very quaint one. The ride was to continue on to the parallel canals but the wind grew stiffer the closer to the sea we got so I thought it best to have the rest of the crew continue on while my daughter and I would go to the pub to get us that much deserved treat... a crepe with chocolate and ice cream for her and an ice cold beer for me...Mmmmmm!
When the rest of the crew returned and confirmed that the wind had only grown much stronger, we were happy with our decision to forego it. They did say that the view was spectacular as you look all the way down the tree lined canal to see the steeple of The Church of Our Lady (back in Bruges) at it’s terminus. The beers and crepes were enjoyed by all before hopping on the bikes for our return to Bruges. As we crossed the canal, you could see the paddleboat that is used for the trip between the two places. It looks like it could be a fun way to travel, if the weather is right. There also stands a lovely old windmill (more Dutch looking than the others) on a beautiful old farm.
The ride home was much easier. I don’t know for sure whether that was owed to the wind at our backs or the stop for refueling but either way it was fun! I would highly recommend Quasimundo tours.
Knowing that my nephew is living the life of not only a starving student, but a starving ART student, and also knowing one of the things he misses the most from home is his favorite meal of ribs, I had reserved a table at In’t Nieuw Museum so he could gorge himself on their all you can eat ribs...and gorge himself he did! I think even the owner, as well as a few diners seated near by, were impressed that such a lean boy could manage to eat as much as he did. We really enjoyed dinner here, although again we have had better steaks, but the atmosphere and the owners’ friendliness, made the experience fun and relaxed. The Dame Blanche was fantastic, BTW!
Tomorrow we head to Brussels for the day and night.
We woke up to overcast skies, a bit of wind and chillier temperatures but none of us were complaining. We had planned ahead to do a bike ride with Quasimundo Bike Tours, through the countryside to Damme. We were scheduled to meet at the Burg at 1:00 so it was nice we had some time beforehand to head out again. Trying to rally three kids, so to speak, is not an easy task, and I hate to say we did not step foot out of the house until 10:30 but we actually didn’t end up leaving until around 11:00 as I locked us out of the house...oops! Thank goodness I had a cell phone and the owners telephone number or else I have no idea what we would have done. The owners showed up five minutes after calling them. They were such wonderful people and again would recommend this home whole-heartedly!
We had so much enjoyed our lunch at Cafe au Lait that we decided to return there for lunch, even though it was in the complete opposite direction of where we were to meet but the waffles were that good! We were not disappointed and the staff could not have been nicer when we explained that we were on a bit of a time crunch. After another delicious meal of waffles with fruit, cheese croquettes, toasted ham and cheese sandwiches topped with eggs, we were ready for our ride. We decided that we needed some chocolate, you know to keep us fueled for the ride, and headed to the chocolate store right in the Burg. Unfortunately there was only one lady working and some customers who were so unbelievably indecisive that we couldn’t wait any longer and left without it. I promised my daughter we would fuel her up in Damme. Jos, the owner of Quasimundo, showed up on time. It turned out there was only one other girl riding with us as the other people who had reserved a spot never showed...great for us, unfortunate for Jos. Se headed over to the warehouse and all quickly got fitted with a terrific bike and a helmet for our daughter.
I must admit, after walking around Bruges the previous days, I was apprehensive about riding on even one block of streets but it was perfectly fine. By now the weather had changed and had certainly become chillier and much, much windier. I had thought ahead and made sure that everyone had gloves with them for just such an occasion and was thankful I did as the kids used them.
First stop was the windmills. Jos was a fantastic guide with a terrific sense of humor. Later in the day, over a beer, he mentioned he had been a photojournalist in a previous life. He certainly knows his history which made for a very informative bike ride. Two years previous, we had been to Kinderdijk in Holland (also a UNESCO WHS) which was fantastic and difficult to top but it was interesting to see how these windmills are different. Once over the major roadway we rode along a tree lined canal. Jos said Napoleon had planted most of the trees along the canals as wind-breaks. We continued on past beautiful old farms whose green fields were being grazed by enormous Belgian draft horses. There were some spectacular properties along the ride.
We were riding head-on into a very stiff wind which made it difficult for our daughter to keep up, but in reality, I enjoyed the slower pace and didn’t mind bringing up the rear! Upon entering Damme, Jos gave us a good history of this town and its importance as a port, long ago. He also had some nice visuals showing satellite views of the star-shaped fortification...most interesting. In the distance, high on a hill, looming over daffodil filled fields seemingly alive with the hopping of hundreds of cottontail rabbits, stood an enormous 12th century church, beckoning you to visit. The closer we rode, the more magnificent it became. By the time we entered the courtyard, we had all agreed that the ride was well worth it, even the extra effort we all had to put forth in the headwinds. The church and it’s grounds were quite a vision, especially for those of us who enjoy photography.
Once in the center of Damme we stop at the city hall. This building is quite ornate and is certainly a testament to the wealth that was a part of this once thriving city, now a village, albeit a very quaint one. The ride was to continue on to the parallel canals but the wind grew stiffer the closer to the sea we got so I thought it best to have the rest of the crew continue on while my daughter and I would go to the pub to get us that much deserved treat... a crepe with chocolate and ice cream for her and an ice cold beer for me...Mmmmmm!
When the rest of the crew returned and confirmed that the wind had only grown much stronger, we were happy with our decision to forego it. They did say that the view was spectacular as you look all the way down the tree lined canal to see the steeple of The Church of Our Lady (back in Bruges) at it’s terminus. The beers and crepes were enjoyed by all before hopping on the bikes for our return to Bruges. As we crossed the canal, you could see the paddleboat that is used for the trip between the two places. It looks like it could be a fun way to travel, if the weather is right. There also stands a lovely old windmill (more Dutch looking than the others) on a beautiful old farm.
The ride home was much easier. I don’t know for sure whether that was owed to the wind at our backs or the stop for refueling but either way it was fun! I would highly recommend Quasimundo tours.
Knowing that my nephew is living the life of not only a starving student, but a starving ART student, and also knowing one of the things he misses the most from home is his favorite meal of ribs, I had reserved a table at In’t Nieuw Museum so he could gorge himself on their all you can eat ribs...and gorge himself he did! I think even the owner, as well as a few diners seated near by, were impressed that such a lean boy could manage to eat as much as he did. We really enjoyed dinner here, although again we have had better steaks, but the atmosphere and the owners’ friendliness, made the experience fun and relaxed. The Dame Blanche was fantastic, BTW!
Tomorrow we head to Brussels for the day and night.
Apr 10th, 2011, 10:41 AM
#17
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,199
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I truly enjoyed your trip report so far.
I'm so sorry that waiters made you leave a tip. They sure take advantage of (American) tourists. They will never do this with us, locals, because 'service' (=tip) is included. Once again, in Belgium a waiter has a normal salary. He does not have to live on tips. What we usually do is round up. When the bill is 88,50 euro for instance, we will round up to 90. Or not, if the service wasn't good. If we pay by CC, we leave a few euros on the table.
I'm so sorry that waiters made you leave a tip. They sure take advantage of (American) tourists. They will never do this with us, locals, because 'service' (=tip) is included. Once again, in Belgium a waiter has a normal salary. He does not have to live on tips. What we usually do is round up. When the bill is 88,50 euro for instance, we will round up to 90. Or not, if the service wasn't good. If we pay by CC, we leave a few euros on the table.
Apr 10th, 2011, 10:43 AM
#18
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,199
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
@ Marsh: bottled water in supermarkets is not that expensive. Tap water is perfectly drinkable but they don't serve it in restaurants. I'm afraid 7 euro is a normal price for water in restaurants.
Apr 12th, 2011, 09:11 AM
#19
odie1, thanks for the interesting (and timely) report. The four of us leave tomorrow for 9 days in The Netherlands and Belgium, and Brugge is on our list. Our youngest is 9; did your daughter enjoy Brugge?
Apr 12th, 2011, 11:48 AM
#20
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Myriam-
The worst of the waiters was still to come in Brussels where he actually returned to the table demanding whether the service was good or not because my husband had not left anything on the CC. Needless to say, we left nothing after that and hadn't planned on it as the service had been horrendous...
fourfortravel-my daughter absolutely loved Brugge. We travel a lot (5th trip to Europe for her) and each place we have been she has always found something that she really enjoyed about the location. She loved Holland when we were there as well-if you can make it to kinderdijk, it was spectacular!
The worst of the waiters was still to come in Brussels where he actually returned to the table demanding whether the service was good or not because my husband had not left anything on the CC. Needless to say, we left nothing after that and hadn't planned on it as the service had been horrendous...
fourfortravel-my daughter absolutely loved Brugge. We travel a lot (5th trip to Europe for her) and each place we have been she has always found something that she really enjoyed about the location. She loved Holland when we were there as well-if you can make it to kinderdijk, it was spectacular!
