abqdeb

I'm trying to get my itinerary organized for 6 days in Provence (end of Sept.). I realize that we can't see everything that we want to see, but trying to pack in as much as possible. I will be posting the first draft of our plans soon and hope you guys can help us be as efficient as possible.

So.... can Arles and Avignon be seen in 1 day? We'll be staying outside of St. Remy (Maillane). I thought about driving to Avignon early in the morning (Pont du Gard and Papal Palace first, then do some walking around town). Have lunch in Avignon (suggestions?), then drive to Arles and spend the afternoon and evening (dinner at L'Atelier).

What do you think? All ideas appreciated!

OReilly

Probably too much, I think, but can be done if you are pushed for time adn willing to start out early and return late.

I am not a fan of Avignon, but if you go, it does deserve at least 4 hours, assuming you do not visit galleries and museums.

Arles deserves at least another 4 hours, and should not be missed. (Nimes is even better, IMHO.)

If you add lunch and driving times, it makes for a long day, but still possible. I have done as much and survived.

Pont du Gard is not IN Avignon:
http://www.avignon-et-provence.com/t...ard/index.html

Do you mean Pont Avignon?

abqdeb

Thanks OReilly. I guess if we start our early and go to Pont du Gard first (try to beat the crowds) and then head to Avignon?? It does seem like way too much for 1 day. What would you propose we pair up with a half day in Arles (and Pont du Gard)?

Then perhaps Les Baux in the morning with Arles the rest of the day? Does that sound better. It's really hard trying to pack everything in. Guess we'll just HAVE to come back.

PBProvence

I would suggest the Pont du Gard and then Avignon - You'd probably have time to come back and visit St. Rémy at the end of the day, since it's close to Maillane.

Another day visit Lex Baux - go early in the morning or late in the day to avoid crowds - and Arles. There is great walking tour in Arles - you can pick up a booklet in the tourist office (iot's available in English)
If you go to Arles on a Wednesday or Saturday there is also a market, Saturday having the biggest one.

Patricia

PBProvence

sorry for the typos... Les Baux...

abqdeb

Thanks Patricia,

I think we're trying to do too much! My husband and I are fast sightseers, but we need time to relax and shop (of course). We enjoy markets, good food and wine more than the museums though. Any suggestions for eating in Avignon (probably lunch)?

Deb

PBProvence

here's a fairly new restaurant that's getting excellent reviews. I haven't had a chance to get there yet, but a friend has said it's very good.
This, from one of the reviews:

Numéro 75

The former mansion of Jules Pernod, creator of the famous anisette liqueur that still bears his name, now houses one of Avignon's newest restaurants. Noted local chef Robert Brunel, whose eponymous establishment, Brunel, faces the Palais des Papes, decided to take over the Pernod property to offer diners a more casual, countrified dining experience. Set behind an iron gate, 75 feels like a secret garden, fragrant with mimosa, bougainvillea, and lemon. "I wanted to create a bistro menu featuring simple Provençal cuisine and lots of salads," Brunel says, "dishes that are perfect for eating outdoors." He keeps his menus short, with only a handful of lunch and dinner choices. My alfresco meal on an evening in late spring—a silky foie-gras terrine studded with bits of poached artichoke hearts, followed by pan-roasted guinea hen paired with a tangy, tender lemon confit—was a delight. Salads, such as the combo of prosciutto, sun-dried tomato, and marinated eggplant, are popular with the after-theater crowd that fills the garden during Avignon's famous summer festival in July.
75 Rue Guillaume Puy;
Tel: 33-(0)4 90 27 16 00
dinner for two $71; closed Sunday.

By the way... on your question on the other thread. I'd suggest reserving several weeks in advance for L'atelier in Arles.

Patricia

Underhill

Crowds aren't really a problem at the Pont du Gard, as there's quite a lot of space around the bridge from which to view it. I'd be more concerned about crowds at Avignon. But you do realize that the Pont du Gard is some distance from Avignon? It would make more sense to combine that with your visit to Arles, and perhaps eliminate Avignon (I too am not a big fan of that city).

I do think, though, that trying to do all three of those in one day is just asking for exhaustion.

abqdeb

I'm curious to know what it is about Avignon that you don't like.

Our dilemna is we have only 6 full days to explore the area surrounding St. Remy. We have a long list including a Luberon drive, I'sle Sur La Sorgue market, Arles, Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, Chat. du Pape and some wine touring, the market in Forqualquier (sp?- are we nuts to drive this far for the market?), Les Baux, and of course the immediate area of St. Remy. I want to spend time in some of the smaller villages, not just large cities.

We don't want to be exhausted, but would like to include as much as possible. After we leave Provence, we will be in Cinque Terre and Nice for another week.

Perhaps you can help us choose what to eliminate? Or better yet... how to fit it all in!

Thanks again!

DanM

If I had six full days in Provence and were stay in Maillane, I would do the following:

Day 1: Glanum, St. Remy, and Les Baux
Day 2: Arles
Day 3: Chat. du Pape and Avignon
Day 4: Isle Sur . . . and Luberon drive
Day 5: Nimes and Pont du Gard
Day 6: Aix or whatever you have not done and want to do.

This would hit alomost your entire list, groups the things near each other to maximize time, and leaves time to stop and smell the roses (or enjoy a 3 hour lunch). Of course, I would change it to be able to attend any events (ie markets, etc.).

Can you do Aix while driving to Nice, if driving?

sandi

We had a bit more time than you, but we scheduled our time very carefully, doing our utmost not to backtrack.

We were disappointed in Isla La Sorgue, so after arriving early, were out of here by 11am to spend the rest of the day in the Luberon.

Likewise, Avignon didn't have us jumping for joy, but we visited for a short time, enough to tour the Papal Palace. But first thing in the morning we drove to and visted Chateauneuf du Pape, then Avignon by lunch, and ended the day driving at sunset to the Pont du Gard. The latter is about 20/miles west of Avignon. We then returned to St. Remy.

On another day, you can certainly do Gallum (right outside St. Remy) then Les Baux in the morning and Arles in the afternoon.

As to the markets, they move from town to town daily, so if you miss it in one town, it'll be in another. After two markets, we gave up as we were bumping into the same vendors day after day.

I'd save Aix for the day before heading to Nice, it's on the way. You'd leave Maillane early for Aix, spend the day and overnight here; then head to Nice next day. Unless you want to spend 2/days in/around Aix.

We were on the road daily by 8:30am latest (but for the day we went to Isle La Sorgue... earlier in order to get parking) to be at our destination when things opened.

Underhill

It's not that I don't like Avignon...I just don't like it as much as, say, Arles and St-Rémy. Once you've seen the Papal Palace (which I find more interesting outside than in, as it's mostly bare indoors), the garden up above the Rhône, and perhaops a museum or two there's not a whole lot more.

Arles, on the other hand, has enough for at least two days: the churches, the Roman arena and theater, the Museon Arleton (folk art), the market, and the Alyscamps.

abqdeb

Thanks all! I love your suggestions. Actually, the thought of staying overnight in Aix on the way to Nice hadn't even occurred to us! I wonder if it's too late to find somewhere to stay for 1 night??

Ok-- I will reconsider all ideas and shuffle our plans. I will repost a final itinerary soon!

BTW, has anyone been to Forcalquier? I read that it is the BEST market that's why I was so keen on going there. Also, it's a Monday market and since a lot of things are closed on Monday's, I thought it might be a good idea.

All other suggestions are welcome, of course.

deb

kdcwood

Deb,

I've been to at least 15 of the markets in Provence and just went up to Forcalquier this summer for the first time. It's a large and busy market and I like the town and the the countryside in that part of Provence is beautiful and quite different that what you'll see in the other places you mention, but it will be a long drive for you; according to ViaMichelin, over an hour and a half. It's not worth it to go that far, especially when there are many other wonderful markets much, much closer.

Our favorite market is the one in Apt (Saturday mornings)-- we've been perhaps 15 times and every time we discover something new. We also enjoy L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (Sunday) and Aix (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday). And we enjoy the smaller markets too. Other than Aix, I haven't been to any of the markets in the Bouches du Rhone, so can't make any other suggestions there, but you could find a market similar to Forcalquier within 30 minutes of your base.

(I also think you will find plenty to do on a Monday...)

http://www.provencelive.com/practica...t/market2.html This is a list of over 100 markets in the Bouches du Rhone. The market in Maillane is on Thursday.

I do have some info about the Forcalquier market on my blog here: http://www.slowtrav.com/blog/wood/archives/001008.html and a piece about a Sunday morning (with photos) at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (in early August) here: http://www.slowtrav.com/blog/wood/archives/001024.html

Kathy

abqdeb

Thanks Kathy. I've read your trip reports on Slow Trav and love them! What terrific photos. Here's a weird question for you, since you are the "market expert".... do you find the prices to be similar at most markets? Or are some a "better buy". I love to go the street markets, but I'm one of these people who always wonders what I will find around the corner or at the next town. With the luggage on planes situation what it is these days, I will have to be careful what I buy. Any tips??

kdcwood

Hi Deb,

I just saw your last post here as well, and sorry I didn't respond earlier.

I don't know if I'm a market "expert," but I do love them. I love shopping for food that I'll cook at home. I like the local crafts and other wares. I like the flea market stuff. I just like the whole environment!

I think the prices are generally similar, though it can vary with quality as well. Almost everyone who visits Provence comes home with a tablecloth. I have seen stands selling tablecloths for as little as 10 euro (a sale price), but you could also spend 50 euro. The quality of the fabric and the nature of the design varies considerably. Items of the same quality are generally priced within a similar range, though sometimes you will find a deal... . In addition to the market stands, the shops in the towns are open too, often with tables out front.

In the big markets like Apt and L'Isle sur la Sorgue, it is very easy to get totally turned around on a first visit. I'd be careful passing by something you really like thinking you can check around and come back. It can sometimes be very very difficult to find that first stand again. And in the big markets, sometimes you also just run out of time. So my advice is to buy something you really like when you see it. If you're lukewarm on something, keep shopping.

I also don't recommend bargaining for things, unless perhaps you are buying some unusual quantity of something-- eg 6 aprons, 5 tablecloths etc. for gifts. I have a couple I buy lots of lavender sachets from every time I am there. I don't ever ask for a discount-- I know they will always give me several extra as a gift.

You probably aren't shopping for produce. But I did find that the prices at the Velleron market (a farmers market) were very good. But most of the stands were selling in large quantities-- ie a whole crate of melons, not just one or two melons.

Hope this helps. Someone else may have some different input.

Kathy

bilboburgler

Pont du Gard and Avignon will kill a day. Arles is worth another half and then do Nimes for half a day.

Nimes is the bigger pull for me

abqdeb

Thanks everyone. We're now leaning toward skipping Avignon altogether and heading from Pont du Gard up to Chat-du Pape as we really don't want to miss out on doing some wine tasting.

I appreciate the shopping tips Kathy! Very helpful. We were in Buenos Aires recently and I got so crazy at the markets there, that I didn't know which way to turn! Bought lots of neat stuff though (and it's wayyy cheaper threre than EU).

One of the things we especially like to bring home is art work from people on the streets. It's our favorite thing to collect from our travels. Any tips on places to find some nice art?

Thanks again!
Deb

cigalechanta

IMHO, Arles, Pont du Gard and UZËS( though technicaly Uzés is not Provence, is a perfect filled day, way to go.
I'm an Avignon fan. There you can visut St Remy, that would be the same distance if you were to start from Arles. From Avignon you can visit the most beatiful(that's why huge tourists)
Is;e-sur-Sorgue, Gorges,Roussillon, Bonnieux.

kdcwood

Deb, there are several artists at the Apt market on Saturday morning. Some set up stands and there are also a couple of galleries selling art and artisan pottery. I don't know if you're interested in photography, but there is a professional photographer (a woman) who has a stand at the Apt market. I really like her work.

Kathy