1st Timers Greece Trip Report
Oct 2nd, 2008, 06:29 AM
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1st Timers Greece Trip Report
Many thanks for the wonderful advice in planning our first trip to Greece. We had a fabulous time… Here’s our report… in a nutshell, we spent 2 nights in Athens, 6 days in Crete, 2 days Santorini, 6 days Naxos….
Day 1 Aug 31… Arrived 1pm Athens airport after an uneventful flight from Denver. It was quite easy to find our way to the X95 bus to Athens. Nights 1 and 2 we stayed at Hotel Cecil, which we found to be convenient. We had a small double room. The staff was helpful except for the inability to locate a hair dryer. We went straight to the Acropolis and Plaka for dinner.
Day 2 – We strolled around our hotel area and meandered through the meat market stopping at a café for pretty good coffee. We brought some fruit and yogurt in a market for breakfast. Later we inquired at a tourist kiosk about getting to the National Archeological Museum. They advised us it was too far to walk. So we made a fateful decision to take the trolley, merely 3 stops. Clueless… we purchased a trolley ticket at a newsstand and hopped on one in a few minutes. The driver didn’t speak English so there we stood with our tickets in our hand wondering what to do with them. After two stops, an official looking man came over and began screaming at us in Greek and writing what looked like a ticket. We had no clue why he was screaming, or what he was saying. A nearby woman interpreted… advising us that he was giving us a fine because we didn’t validate our ticket. What that meant… we had no idea. We in turn tried to communicate that we’d just arrived in Athens, we didn’t know anything about validating tickets and thought he would surely understand and tell us what we needed to know. No. He shoed us of the trolley and after we, and three policemen on the street attempted a conversation, we advised we had to pay 60 times the cost of a ticket as a fine for not validating the ticket. He gave us a break he said… and could have given two fines, one for each of us. Needless to say, it was not a warm welcome to Athens!
Annoyed and angry, we walked to the museum, had a nice lunch outside and enjoyed the rest of our day…. stopping to see the changing of the guard at Parliament. Plaka area for dinner.
Day 3 – awoke at 3am for early taxi to the airport, and 6am flight to Chania, Crete. We were surprised to find how busy the airport was at that early hour and nearly missed the flight! Thankfully, we packed for two weeks in carry-on luggage and just made it. We had reservations in Chania for the first two nights unsure how long we’d stay in Crete or what we’d do. We stayed at Frida Apartments just west of Chania and an easy 30-minute walk. Frida and her family have lovely and wonderful apartments with two beautiful pools and great breakfast. It was close enough to the main road if we wanted to take a bus and quiet. We ended up staying at Frida for four nights, one of which they had a great BBQ with Cretan music which we so enjoyed… Frida also has a travel agency down the block and can help with ferry tickets, etc. We paid 70 EU a night with breakfast and would highly recommend Frida Apartments for your stay in Crete.
Our first day in Chania we walked around the lovely city enjoying every moment, spent the afternoon at the pool.
Day 4 – bus to Elofinisi beach… it was 1 ½-2 hour bus ride during which we had a chance to see other small towns and the countryside, before arriving at the quiet beach for a perfect beach day. From Frida Apartments, we took a taxi to the central bus depot for all our bus trips. After returning from the beach, we arrived back at Frida for their weekly buffet BBQ (18EU with wine). The food was great, music and dancing were great fun.
Taxi was between 5 and 8 EU depending on the driver of the day and what he felt like charging. Most days we walked back. We had perfect weather every day in Crete and everywhere else in Greece.
Day 5 – This morning we walked back to Chania town, this time walking through the outdoor market along the water. Lots of produce, fish and clothing for sale. We explored the Venetian fort and had a fish lunch at one of the restaurants on the harbor. After lunch we went to the indoor market which we loved. This was our first gift-shopping day and had a blast buying nuts, soaps and other goodies. We loved the almonds and peanuts coated with sesame seeds. Later that day, we walked back to our hotel for a swim in the beautiful pool at Frida and sunset. We ate a bag of almonds and sesame for dinner!
From the time we arrived in Greece, my beau had a nasty and painful blister on the bottom of his foot, which worsened each day with so much walking. We were planning to hike the Samaria Gorge and delayed it each day hoping his foot would heal. No such luck. However, on day 6 we instead planned to take the bus to do the Imbros Gorge instead.
Day 6 – I sent the alarm clock incorrectly and we awoke too late to catch the morning bus to the Imbros Gorge! Luckily there was a second bus that would get us there in time to do the hike and catch the return bus to Chania. Before starting out on the hike we stopped in a market (to use the rest room) and bought a few bags of snacks for the hike. Don’t know what they were called… they looked like pretzels but were a little sweet with dried cherries. Yum. Thank you Fodorites for recommending the Imbros Gorge. It was gorgeous. And I am very glad we brought our hefty hiking boots from Colorado. Be prepared at the end of this hike to be greeted by two people selling taxi rides to the bus. A five minute ride and 15 EU each. We had an hour to wait for the bus back to Chania, so plopped at a café for some delicious Crete delicacies. While enjoying the view of the Libyan Sea we saw a boat arrive with thousands of people walking off… and realized they too will be waiting for the bus to Chania. Although we scrambled to the bus to get on line for the last bus of the day, we were amazed to see how two other buses arrived out of nowhere to accommodate the crowd. A little stressful, but all was well and well worth it!
Day 7 – 9:30 bus from Chania to Heraklion. Frida helped us find a last-minute hotel for our next day’s ferry to Santorini. Since we booked late, we had a rather long walk to our hotel (Castello something). It seemed primarily a business hotel although it was quite nice. It has a rooftop bar with lovely view and the biggest breakfast buffet we saw anywhere in Greece. We didn’t get to eat it as we had to just grab coffee and bread as they were setting up, to get to the ferry. The taxi stand is right outside the door.
We walked a long way after checking in to find a recommended souvlaki place, then to the bus stop for a visit to Knossos. We quite liked it although were hot and weary when we finally arrived close to 3pm or maybe later.
That evening we happy hour-ed on the rooftop bar of our hotel. Hotel cost was 70 or 75 EU with breakfast. Rooms were good, wake up call was on time.
Day 8 – we took the 8:15 ferry to Santorini. We didn’t have a reservation but I had a list of recommended places from this list. We somehow got sucked into one of the booking agent’s booths. We were hell-bent on a caldera view but not sure to stay in Oia or Firostefani. We initially agreed to two nights the agent said was the best and only one left with a caldera view… We paid 40 EU (which turned out to be his fee/commission) for a price of 100 EU per night. While waiting for a ride to the place… we were later told Oops… no they don’t really have two nights we wanted. However, the agent said he had another with a pool and caldera view. We agreed to stay one night and move to the original place the second night… 1st night Vallas apartments, 2nd night Kafieres Apartments. They were the same price with breakfast and view. However, no comparison. Vallas was not at all worth the price, even without the agent fee. Breakfast was nothing but cake and bread and they charged for the second cup of coffee. The pool was nothing… not a pool at all. Kafieres, however, was lovely… gorgeous pool, fantastic view and nice breakfast. We loved it.
On the first of our two days, we did the hike to Oia. It was a really hot day and I wore sandals. Mistake. If you do this hike, know it is a little rocky and you’ll have stones in your shoes every step. Annoying… however the hike was fabulous. We arrived in Oia just in time to find a happy hour bar for the amazing sunset. We ate dinner in Oia and caught the last bus back to Firostefani. I loved the town of Oia and wished I had more time to hang there, browse the shops, etc.
On the second day in Santorini, we moved hotels in the morning… luckily it was just a five minute walk. After a walk to Fira to buy ferry tickets for Naxos and some souvlaki, we stayed at Kafieres all day and enjoyed the beautiful pool and views. We never ventured out to see any of the beaches and by this time in our trip needed a day to crash and take in the views. Fabulous! We never even ate dinner that night… didn’t want to leave.
The owner of Kafieres drove us to the ferry for our trip to Naxos. We recommend this lodging in Santorini.
Day 8 – we arrived in Naxos also without a reservation. I had contacted many hotels in St. George before we left and most recommended on this list were booked. As this was out last stop, and we live in the mountains, we wanted to stay on the beach. We were attacked with apartment owners at the ferry terminal. We ended up going off to Agia Anna beach with what was promised to beachfront brand new apartment. We did not stay there… first we were annoyed that the owner wasn’t honest… the apartment was not on the beach, although in truth it was one block in from the beach and there was a view from the terrace. So there we were without a room and dragging our luggage and backpacks all over town. We were also a little disappointed that the beach was so very narrow… it’s a pretty beach but quite tiny. After growing weary of hotel shopping…. we’d now walked around long enough to realize there are not hotels on the beach! They are all across the street and back one block or more. It was getting late and we didn’t want to spend all day scouting a place… we were planning on 5 nights in Naxos so wanted our beach time. Oh, and we wanted a place with a pool.
The first night in Naxos, we did find a lovely spot in Agia Anna – Summer Dream II. It was only 35EU and we had a huge room… no two rooms. Off we went to late lunch and beach walking followed by sunset and dinner in Agia Propokios. After we ate lunch and while walking through Agia Propokios we found yet another hotel with a pool, tucked behind. We’d stopped in a restroom in a hotel and told the owner we’d love to find a place very close to the beach with a pool. Sitting right there was the owner of a new place, with a pool So we followed her to check it out… Hotel Ariadne was a gem… We’d never have found it on our own… the rooms were new, decorated nicely, views, and a beautiful pool and lovely morning breakfast. We moved out of Agia Anna and into Hotel Ariadne for the next three nights. We thoroughly enjoyed it. We spent day two in Naxos swimming in our pool, swimming in the beach, and in late afternoon, took the local bus to Chora for my sweeties birthday dinner at Taverna To Kastro. Thank you everyone for recommending it… wonderful food, beautiful view… very memorable… and the directions really helped. We took a taxi ride back to Agia Propkopios.
We did enjoy Agia Prokopios area more than if we’d stayed in St. George. For the beach lovers, check it out… it was no big deal to take a bus to town when we wanted it, or taxi.
Our next day in Naxos, we rented bicycles and spent the afternoon exploring small villages that was almost vacant. It was a little hilly, so we didn’t get as far as we hoped, and stopped in an internet café to check email for a while. Those little towns close up for lunch and we were quite hungry after riding for a few hours. We had to wait to find food until we got back to Agia Prokopios… so pack food if you’ll be riding. We spent the afternoon at our pool before wandering out for dinner.
Day 10 Naxos – we’d signed up for a bus tour of Naxos for the day… and glad we did so… it was interested, and easier that driving ourselves. We managed ten days in Greece without renting a car… it was easy to get around everywhere.
For our last day in Naxos, I surprised my beau and booked our last night in Naxos in the Plaka area. He passionately loves the beach and I’d read so much about Plaka. We had a hot tip for the Plaza Beach Hotel… which IS right on the beach, and has a stunning swimming pool. It’s a wonderful hotel – way at the end of Plaka beach. If you don’t keep walking after the bus, you’d miss it. The hotel people picked us up in Agia Prokopios… a nice treat! We had a lovely room with view of the water. Breakfast was a giant buffet. In fact we arrived so early, they invited us to have breakfast that day, as well as the next. They also drove us back to the ferry in Chora the next day. We loved this hotel… the beach, the pool…. everything. It was 90EU with breakfast… We opted for their buffet dinner which I think was 12 EU each. It was a lot of food. For us it was too rich, too much meat so we didn’t eat that much. We’re not big meat lovers.
It was out last night in Naxos before taking the 3:15 pm ferry to Athens after 1 ½ days at Plaza Beach.
Getting home to the US seemed to take a lifetime. We decided not to return to Athens because.. 1 – we had a 6am flight, 2 – we’d have only 2-3 hours to sleep, 3 – we didn’t have time to see anything since our ferry arrived about 10:30 pm. So we took the public bus right to the airport and stayed up until our flight. We then had a 5 hour layover in Frankfort… our entire journey home was almost 36 hours travel time… 7 hour ferry, 5 hours in Athens airport, flight to Frankfurt, 5 hours in Frankfurt and 11 or so hours to Denver. Whew.
We arrived home loving every moment in Greece. Crete was our favorite and already want to return. We had perfect weather every day (September).
We are glad we didn’t take a cruise… glad we didn’t pre-book hotels (except Athens day first days in Crete), and glad we didn’t rent a car.
Planning for Greece is like planning 6 vacations at once… if you plan to move around.
Thank you again for the useful advice we received on this forum to plan this trip.
Day 1 Aug 31… Arrived 1pm Athens airport after an uneventful flight from Denver. It was quite easy to find our way to the X95 bus to Athens. Nights 1 and 2 we stayed at Hotel Cecil, which we found to be convenient. We had a small double room. The staff was helpful except for the inability to locate a hair dryer. We went straight to the Acropolis and Plaka for dinner.
Day 2 – We strolled around our hotel area and meandered through the meat market stopping at a café for pretty good coffee. We brought some fruit and yogurt in a market for breakfast. Later we inquired at a tourist kiosk about getting to the National Archeological Museum. They advised us it was too far to walk. So we made a fateful decision to take the trolley, merely 3 stops. Clueless… we purchased a trolley ticket at a newsstand and hopped on one in a few minutes. The driver didn’t speak English so there we stood with our tickets in our hand wondering what to do with them. After two stops, an official looking man came over and began screaming at us in Greek and writing what looked like a ticket. We had no clue why he was screaming, or what he was saying. A nearby woman interpreted… advising us that he was giving us a fine because we didn’t validate our ticket. What that meant… we had no idea. We in turn tried to communicate that we’d just arrived in Athens, we didn’t know anything about validating tickets and thought he would surely understand and tell us what we needed to know. No. He shoed us of the trolley and after we, and three policemen on the street attempted a conversation, we advised we had to pay 60 times the cost of a ticket as a fine for not validating the ticket. He gave us a break he said… and could have given two fines, one for each of us. Needless to say, it was not a warm welcome to Athens!
Annoyed and angry, we walked to the museum, had a nice lunch outside and enjoyed the rest of our day…. stopping to see the changing of the guard at Parliament. Plaka area for dinner.
Day 3 – awoke at 3am for early taxi to the airport, and 6am flight to Chania, Crete. We were surprised to find how busy the airport was at that early hour and nearly missed the flight! Thankfully, we packed for two weeks in carry-on luggage and just made it. We had reservations in Chania for the first two nights unsure how long we’d stay in Crete or what we’d do. We stayed at Frida Apartments just west of Chania and an easy 30-minute walk. Frida and her family have lovely and wonderful apartments with two beautiful pools and great breakfast. It was close enough to the main road if we wanted to take a bus and quiet. We ended up staying at Frida for four nights, one of which they had a great BBQ with Cretan music which we so enjoyed… Frida also has a travel agency down the block and can help with ferry tickets, etc. We paid 70 EU a night with breakfast and would highly recommend Frida Apartments for your stay in Crete.
Our first day in Chania we walked around the lovely city enjoying every moment, spent the afternoon at the pool.
Day 4 – bus to Elofinisi beach… it was 1 ½-2 hour bus ride during which we had a chance to see other small towns and the countryside, before arriving at the quiet beach for a perfect beach day. From Frida Apartments, we took a taxi to the central bus depot for all our bus trips. After returning from the beach, we arrived back at Frida for their weekly buffet BBQ (18EU with wine). The food was great, music and dancing were great fun.
Taxi was between 5 and 8 EU depending on the driver of the day and what he felt like charging. Most days we walked back. We had perfect weather every day in Crete and everywhere else in Greece.
Day 5 – This morning we walked back to Chania town, this time walking through the outdoor market along the water. Lots of produce, fish and clothing for sale. We explored the Venetian fort and had a fish lunch at one of the restaurants on the harbor. After lunch we went to the indoor market which we loved. This was our first gift-shopping day and had a blast buying nuts, soaps and other goodies. We loved the almonds and peanuts coated with sesame seeds. Later that day, we walked back to our hotel for a swim in the beautiful pool at Frida and sunset. We ate a bag of almonds and sesame for dinner!
From the time we arrived in Greece, my beau had a nasty and painful blister on the bottom of his foot, which worsened each day with so much walking. We were planning to hike the Samaria Gorge and delayed it each day hoping his foot would heal. No such luck. However, on day 6 we instead planned to take the bus to do the Imbros Gorge instead.
Day 6 – I sent the alarm clock incorrectly and we awoke too late to catch the morning bus to the Imbros Gorge! Luckily there was a second bus that would get us there in time to do the hike and catch the return bus to Chania. Before starting out on the hike we stopped in a market (to use the rest room) and bought a few bags of snacks for the hike. Don’t know what they were called… they looked like pretzels but were a little sweet with dried cherries. Yum. Thank you Fodorites for recommending the Imbros Gorge. It was gorgeous. And I am very glad we brought our hefty hiking boots from Colorado. Be prepared at the end of this hike to be greeted by two people selling taxi rides to the bus. A five minute ride and 15 EU each. We had an hour to wait for the bus back to Chania, so plopped at a café for some delicious Crete delicacies. While enjoying the view of the Libyan Sea we saw a boat arrive with thousands of people walking off… and realized they too will be waiting for the bus to Chania. Although we scrambled to the bus to get on line for the last bus of the day, we were amazed to see how two other buses arrived out of nowhere to accommodate the crowd. A little stressful, but all was well and well worth it!
Day 7 – 9:30 bus from Chania to Heraklion. Frida helped us find a last-minute hotel for our next day’s ferry to Santorini. Since we booked late, we had a rather long walk to our hotel (Castello something). It seemed primarily a business hotel although it was quite nice. It has a rooftop bar with lovely view and the biggest breakfast buffet we saw anywhere in Greece. We didn’t get to eat it as we had to just grab coffee and bread as they were setting up, to get to the ferry. The taxi stand is right outside the door.
We walked a long way after checking in to find a recommended souvlaki place, then to the bus stop for a visit to Knossos. We quite liked it although were hot and weary when we finally arrived close to 3pm or maybe later.
That evening we happy hour-ed on the rooftop bar of our hotel. Hotel cost was 70 or 75 EU with breakfast. Rooms were good, wake up call was on time.
Day 8 – we took the 8:15 ferry to Santorini. We didn’t have a reservation but I had a list of recommended places from this list. We somehow got sucked into one of the booking agent’s booths. We were hell-bent on a caldera view but not sure to stay in Oia or Firostefani. We initially agreed to two nights the agent said was the best and only one left with a caldera view… We paid 40 EU (which turned out to be his fee/commission) for a price of 100 EU per night. While waiting for a ride to the place… we were later told Oops… no they don’t really have two nights we wanted. However, the agent said he had another with a pool and caldera view. We agreed to stay one night and move to the original place the second night… 1st night Vallas apartments, 2nd night Kafieres Apartments. They were the same price with breakfast and view. However, no comparison. Vallas was not at all worth the price, even without the agent fee. Breakfast was nothing but cake and bread and they charged for the second cup of coffee. The pool was nothing… not a pool at all. Kafieres, however, was lovely… gorgeous pool, fantastic view and nice breakfast. We loved it.
On the first of our two days, we did the hike to Oia. It was a really hot day and I wore sandals. Mistake. If you do this hike, know it is a little rocky and you’ll have stones in your shoes every step. Annoying… however the hike was fabulous. We arrived in Oia just in time to find a happy hour bar for the amazing sunset. We ate dinner in Oia and caught the last bus back to Firostefani. I loved the town of Oia and wished I had more time to hang there, browse the shops, etc.
On the second day in Santorini, we moved hotels in the morning… luckily it was just a five minute walk. After a walk to Fira to buy ferry tickets for Naxos and some souvlaki, we stayed at Kafieres all day and enjoyed the beautiful pool and views. We never ventured out to see any of the beaches and by this time in our trip needed a day to crash and take in the views. Fabulous! We never even ate dinner that night… didn’t want to leave.
The owner of Kafieres drove us to the ferry for our trip to Naxos. We recommend this lodging in Santorini.
Day 8 – we arrived in Naxos also without a reservation. I had contacted many hotels in St. George before we left and most recommended on this list were booked. As this was out last stop, and we live in the mountains, we wanted to stay on the beach. We were attacked with apartment owners at the ferry terminal. We ended up going off to Agia Anna beach with what was promised to beachfront brand new apartment. We did not stay there… first we were annoyed that the owner wasn’t honest… the apartment was not on the beach, although in truth it was one block in from the beach and there was a view from the terrace. So there we were without a room and dragging our luggage and backpacks all over town. We were also a little disappointed that the beach was so very narrow… it’s a pretty beach but quite tiny. After growing weary of hotel shopping…. we’d now walked around long enough to realize there are not hotels on the beach! They are all across the street and back one block or more. It was getting late and we didn’t want to spend all day scouting a place… we were planning on 5 nights in Naxos so wanted our beach time. Oh, and we wanted a place with a pool.
The first night in Naxos, we did find a lovely spot in Agia Anna – Summer Dream II. It was only 35EU and we had a huge room… no two rooms. Off we went to late lunch and beach walking followed by sunset and dinner in Agia Propokios. After we ate lunch and while walking through Agia Propokios we found yet another hotel with a pool, tucked behind. We’d stopped in a restroom in a hotel and told the owner we’d love to find a place very close to the beach with a pool. Sitting right there was the owner of a new place, with a pool So we followed her to check it out… Hotel Ariadne was a gem… We’d never have found it on our own… the rooms were new, decorated nicely, views, and a beautiful pool and lovely morning breakfast. We moved out of Agia Anna and into Hotel Ariadne for the next three nights. We thoroughly enjoyed it. We spent day two in Naxos swimming in our pool, swimming in the beach, and in late afternoon, took the local bus to Chora for my sweeties birthday dinner at Taverna To Kastro. Thank you everyone for recommending it… wonderful food, beautiful view… very memorable… and the directions really helped. We took a taxi ride back to Agia Propkopios.
We did enjoy Agia Prokopios area more than if we’d stayed in St. George. For the beach lovers, check it out… it was no big deal to take a bus to town when we wanted it, or taxi.
Our next day in Naxos, we rented bicycles and spent the afternoon exploring small villages that was almost vacant. It was a little hilly, so we didn’t get as far as we hoped, and stopped in an internet café to check email for a while. Those little towns close up for lunch and we were quite hungry after riding for a few hours. We had to wait to find food until we got back to Agia Prokopios… so pack food if you’ll be riding. We spent the afternoon at our pool before wandering out for dinner.
Day 10 Naxos – we’d signed up for a bus tour of Naxos for the day… and glad we did so… it was interested, and easier that driving ourselves. We managed ten days in Greece without renting a car… it was easy to get around everywhere.
For our last day in Naxos, I surprised my beau and booked our last night in Naxos in the Plaka area. He passionately loves the beach and I’d read so much about Plaka. We had a hot tip for the Plaza Beach Hotel… which IS right on the beach, and has a stunning swimming pool. It’s a wonderful hotel – way at the end of Plaka beach. If you don’t keep walking after the bus, you’d miss it. The hotel people picked us up in Agia Prokopios… a nice treat! We had a lovely room with view of the water. Breakfast was a giant buffet. In fact we arrived so early, they invited us to have breakfast that day, as well as the next. They also drove us back to the ferry in Chora the next day. We loved this hotel… the beach, the pool…. everything. It was 90EU with breakfast… We opted for their buffet dinner which I think was 12 EU each. It was a lot of food. For us it was too rich, too much meat so we didn’t eat that much. We’re not big meat lovers.
It was out last night in Naxos before taking the 3:15 pm ferry to Athens after 1 ½ days at Plaza Beach.
Getting home to the US seemed to take a lifetime. We decided not to return to Athens because.. 1 – we had a 6am flight, 2 – we’d have only 2-3 hours to sleep, 3 – we didn’t have time to see anything since our ferry arrived about 10:30 pm. So we took the public bus right to the airport and stayed up until our flight. We then had a 5 hour layover in Frankfort… our entire journey home was almost 36 hours travel time… 7 hour ferry, 5 hours in Athens airport, flight to Frankfurt, 5 hours in Frankfurt and 11 or so hours to Denver. Whew.
We arrived home loving every moment in Greece. Crete was our favorite and already want to return. We had perfect weather every day (September).
We are glad we didn’t take a cruise… glad we didn’t pre-book hotels (except Athens day first days in Crete), and glad we didn’t rent a car.
Planning for Greece is like planning 6 vacations at once… if you plan to move around.
Thank you again for the useful advice we received on this forum to plan this trip.
Oct 2nd, 2008, 11:25 AM
#3
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thank you, thank you for taking the time to post all the details. I am glad you enjoyed your time in Naxos.
I think it is so helpful to explain how hotel-finding can happen.. and NOT happen. Fortunately, it sounds as if you 2 are flexible enough to go with the flow -- and switch if you do not like your original choice. Particularly like your report on Kafieris in Firostephani, which is seldom mentioned in traveler reviews.
Stanbr will be pleased that you liked the birthday dinner venue, To Kastro. It IS the best place to have dinner at the same time you enjoy the view and the sunset, in Naxos Town.
Your homeward trek sounded grueling, but that's Greece. I always tell people (from the US anywayY) that a trip to Greece is not jut a Journey, but more of a QUEST... so expect it to be tiring, and sometimes to involve a few Dragons.
Thanks again!
I think it is so helpful to explain how hotel-finding can happen.. and NOT happen. Fortunately, it sounds as if you 2 are flexible enough to go with the flow -- and switch if you do not like your original choice. Particularly like your report on Kafieris in Firostephani, which is seldom mentioned in traveler reviews.
Stanbr will be pleased that you liked the birthday dinner venue, To Kastro. It IS the best place to have dinner at the same time you enjoy the view and the sunset, in Naxos Town.
Your homeward trek sounded grueling, but that's Greece. I always tell people (from the US anywayY) that a trip to Greece is not jut a Journey, but more of a QUEST... so expect it to be tiring, and sometimes to involve a few Dragons.
Thanks again!
Oct 2nd, 2008, 12:22 PM
#4
Thanks for the report changemaven!
We too have a 6:00 am flight out of Athens to Frankfurt - what time did you get to the airport for your departure?
We were planning on staying in Athens that last night - our hotel is getting a taxi for us in the morning. I thought getting to the airport at 4:00 am would be sufficient but after reading your Athens - Chania airport experience - well I may need to rethink our plans.
We too have a 6:00 am flight out of Athens to Frankfurt - what time did you get to the airport for your departure?
We were planning on staying in Athens that last night - our hotel is getting a taxi for us in the morning. I thought getting to the airport at 4:00 am would be sufficient but after reading your Athens - Chania airport experience - well I may need to rethink our plans.
Oct 2nd, 2008, 02:11 PM
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Dania, if you get there at 4 for your international 6 am flight you will be fine. Perhaps their domestic flight was understaffed at the check-in counter -likelier to happen w. domestic, but don't get all swiveted. Two hours is just fine.
Oct 3rd, 2008, 07:13 PM
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Thanks for your report. So many people ask questions here but we never hear from them what they did and what they enjoyed.
Finding a hotel on a walk up basis is always an adventure but can get you bargains. One has to be ready to walk away if you do not get what you really want.
I am pleased you visited Taverna to Kasto. It is the hardest taverna to find in Naxos but the qust is worth it as it is really very good. If my wife didn't insist on some discipline I would go there every night.
Finding a hotel on a walk up basis is always an adventure but can get you bargains. One has to be ready to walk away if you do not get what you really want.
I am pleased you visited Taverna to Kasto. It is the hardest taverna to find in Naxos but the qust is worth it as it is really very good. If my wife didn't insist on some discipline I would go there every night.
Oct 4th, 2008, 05:42 AM
#9
Travelerjan - Thank you for your response regarding airport arrival time - greatly appreciate it.
We are initially flying into Athens and have a 3 hour layover before our connection to Chania so it sounds like that should work for the domestic flight.
Thanks again!
We are initially flying into Athens and have a 3 hour layover before our connection to Chania so it sounds like that should work for the domestic flight.
Thanks again!
Oct 6th, 2008, 09:04 PM
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Hi again... Changemaven here... I'm answering the question about airport arrival for 6am flight... We had a 3:30 am pickup from Athens in a taxi (expensive at that hour! 60 EU I think). We got to the airport 4:15 and we were shocked how crowded and busy the line were. This was for our trip to Crete on our third day. We barely made it.
On the return flight to Frankfurt at the end of our trip, we also had a 6am flight. We cancelled our last night hotel stay in Athens and went stratight from the ferry from Naxos to the airport. We'd takenthe 3:15 ferry, arrived athens about 10:15 pm, waited for the city bus and got to the airport past midnight. We did an all nighter which wasn't fun. But ... it would have also been so fun to have two hours of sleep and take another pricey taxi. We're glad we did it that way. We were tired but so what. it was easier than hotel, taxi at that time of day.
If anyone is going to Crete, please buy me some of those almonds with sesame from the market. I'm ready to plan another trip back.
Oh, here's another important note for Crete lodging... Frida apartments in Chania is great! I believe there is another hotel named Frida in heraklion and got poor reviews here or trip advisor. If you check out Frida in Chania, that is the good one.
Thanks again everyone who helped make my trip a dream trip!
On the return flight to Frankfurt at the end of our trip, we also had a 6am flight. We cancelled our last night hotel stay in Athens and went stratight from the ferry from Naxos to the airport. We'd takenthe 3:15 ferry, arrived athens about 10:15 pm, waited for the city bus and got to the airport past midnight. We did an all nighter which wasn't fun. But ... it would have also been so fun to have two hours of sleep and take another pricey taxi. We're glad we did it that way. We were tired but so what. it was easier than hotel, taxi at that time of day.
If anyone is going to Crete, please buy me some of those almonds with sesame from the market. I'm ready to plan another trip back.
Oh, here's another important note for Crete lodging... Frida apartments in Chania is great! I believe there is another hotel named Frida in heraklion and got poor reviews here or trip advisor. If you check out Frida in Chania, that is the good one.
Thanks again everyone who helped make my trip a dream trip!
Oct 19th, 2008, 01:29 PM
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Here is our two cents' worth, after having just returned from almost the same stretch, covered in late Sep / early Oct, and having armed ourselves with the advice from the forum experts (thank you Heimdall, Travelerjan, GeoffHamer, Stanbr and others):
- we traveled mostly by ferry between islands; due to the unreliability of ferry schedules, we booked everything as needed the day before, no problem with seat availability
- it helped not to be "harpooned" by the local hotel agents upon ferry arrival; we usually pre-booked for just one day, then extended if we liked the place; small car rental was 30-35 Euro per day, which gave us the freedom to look around
- in two places the hotel picked us up at the ferry dock, or the car rental included delivery to the ferry dock at no additional cost
- in Santorini we were very happy to walk to the caldera view (got a great sunset from Oia the first night); but I wouldn't stay in Perissa
- to counter your experience with bus tickets: upon our arrival we could buy any tickets anywhere; it turned out to European "no car" day, so all public transport was free
- if you're tired of the transfer hassles between two means of transport, you may find every once in a while somebody selling a connected path: for example one bus ticket Chania - Piraeus - Patra - Ioannina, a bus ticket from Athens to Corfu. Haven't discovered yet a single fare from the Athens airport to faraway destinations like the Cyclades or Santorini (was probably torpedoed by the taxi business), but it is bound to be profitable
- we also had great weather, but the monotony thereof was broken up by an evening of very heavy rain in Athens, and by a spell of Sahara winds with sand clouds in Crete
- while Santorini gave us the peak experience for photography, we were quite inpressed by the isolated villages in northern Naxos and southern Crete; Corfu was disappointing for somebody familiar with Italy
- we traveled mostly by ferry between islands; due to the unreliability of ferry schedules, we booked everything as needed the day before, no problem with seat availability
- it helped not to be "harpooned" by the local hotel agents upon ferry arrival; we usually pre-booked for just one day, then extended if we liked the place; small car rental was 30-35 Euro per day, which gave us the freedom to look around
- in two places the hotel picked us up at the ferry dock, or the car rental included delivery to the ferry dock at no additional cost
- in Santorini we were very happy to walk to the caldera view (got a great sunset from Oia the first night); but I wouldn't stay in Perissa
- to counter your experience with bus tickets: upon our arrival we could buy any tickets anywhere; it turned out to European "no car" day, so all public transport was free
- if you're tired of the transfer hassles between two means of transport, you may find every once in a while somebody selling a connected path: for example one bus ticket Chania - Piraeus - Patra - Ioannina, a bus ticket from Athens to Corfu. Haven't discovered yet a single fare from the Athens airport to faraway destinations like the Cyclades or Santorini (was probably torpedoed by the taxi business), but it is bound to be profitable
- we also had great weather, but the monotony thereof was broken up by an evening of very heavy rain in Athens, and by a spell of Sahara winds with sand clouds in Crete
- while Santorini gave us the peak experience for photography, we were quite inpressed by the isolated villages in northern Naxos and southern Crete; Corfu was disappointing for somebody familiar with Italy
Oct 19th, 2008, 07:14 PM
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nice report, tableronde, deserves its own heading! Some people may not find our report because they think they've already read change-maven's write-up.
It sounds as if you took a cool/relaxed approach that worked just fine ... a bit off-season it usually does.
About Corfu -- your comment is exactly why I have never been attracted to it; if u read Greek history at all you realilze that most Ionian islands were under the influence of Italy & Great BRitain for so long, they don't have what we consider a really Greek 'feel' to them.
It sounds as if you took a cool/relaxed approach that worked just fine ... a bit off-season it usually does.
About Corfu -- your comment is exactly why I have never been attracted to it; if u read Greek history at all you realilze that most Ionian islands were under the influence of Italy & Great BRitain for so long, they don't have what we consider a really Greek 'feel' to them.
Oct 20th, 2008, 08:32 PM
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Travelerjan,
Yes, I may indeed post a separate trip report when I figure out how it can reach those who'd benefit from it.
Re your comment on Corfu: even after some reading of Italian and Greek history, I don't feel qualified beyond some simple observations. Us western visitors are inclined to judge some Greek cities by their most visible landmarks, which often have been the work of an ancient or of an occupying power.
Behind that facade one can get to know an island population, which is interested in family, village, church, harvest, and the same day's dinner more that in what is happening beyond its shores.
Corfu was an outpost of Venetian naval power for centuries, and it never fell under Ottoman rule. I believe its population has always continued to speak Greek at home, while using one of the lingua francas for trade.
In Naxos I am told that they could hardly wait for the arrogant Venetian overlord to leave, before they tore down the towers of his fortress (castro).
Yes, I may indeed post a separate trip report when I figure out how it can reach those who'd benefit from it.
Re your comment on Corfu: even after some reading of Italian and Greek history, I don't feel qualified beyond some simple observations. Us western visitors are inclined to judge some Greek cities by their most visible landmarks, which often have been the work of an ancient or of an occupying power.
Behind that facade one can get to know an island population, which is interested in family, village, church, harvest, and the same day's dinner more that in what is happening beyond its shores.
Corfu was an outpost of Venetian naval power for centuries, and it never fell under Ottoman rule. I believe its population has always continued to speak Greek at home, while using one of the lingua francas for trade.
In Naxos I am told that they could hardly wait for the arrogant Venetian overlord to leave, before they tore down the towers of his fortress (castro).
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