Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Canada
Reload this Page >

Underwhelmed by Montreal - any suggestions?

Underwhelmed by Montreal - any suggestions?

Old Jul 21st, 2015, 07:37 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,070
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Underwhelmed by Montreal - any suggestions?

My first time - just got home.

Despite attending the JFL fest this past wkd, I came away from Montreal thinking "hmmm". I was only there 48 hours and did not do a lick of reading or research ahead of time. I only knew of the reputation, which is that it's the "most European" of NA cities, etc.

The fest was a lot of fun - I went in support of a comedian friend and met/watched on stage and had drinks with some interesting comedians. I'd gladly go back again for the festival.

But overall Montreal didn't impress me that much. Lots of high rises and it reminded me more of Pittsburgh than Paris - even though I did walk the old quarter with my friend. I noticed a number of people dressed rather punk/goth, which is a departure from DC where I live. I also noticed way more derelicts/drunks walking around, especially in the evenings, than I've seen in DC or NYC or overseas.

Any suggestions for any repeat visit, should I make one? Other than crack a book, I mean... What is your favorite part of Montreal?

Thanks!
flygirl is offline  
Old Jul 21st, 2015, 08:26 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 12,126
Received 26 Likes on 4 Posts
I lived in Montreal for 2 years a long time ago and, while I realize things could have changed since then, I was distinctly underwhelmed, too, as a resident. This isn't helping in your inquiry I realize but, except for family obligations, last time about 15 years ago, I've never had any desire to go back. And is the reason I only stayed 2 years, although there are some lovely areas to live. There's nothing overtly wrong with it, other than the winters, and I wouldn't suggest anyone interested not go, but I think, unless for an event as above, there are more interesting places to spend one's travel budget.
MmePerdu is offline  
Old Jul 21st, 2015, 01:00 PM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,048
Received 17 Likes on 10 Posts
I have lived on the island of Montreal for over 40 years and have been avoiding the city of Montreal for the past 27, for exactly the reasons you have enumerated.

Montreal is a "wannabe" city, pretends that it is French, with faux cathedrals, pretend museums, science centers, etc.. Events like the JazzFest, JFL, and others, are equivalent to putting lipstick on a pig.

You noticed the pig.

For a few hundred dollars more you can cross the Atlantic and have real France, real Notre Dame, and real culture.

Because of cheap housing (which reflects the economic malaise of Quebec), its proximity to Ottawa, New England states, and especially Maine, our favorite driving destination, Montreal area is a good place to live.
Paris, London, Brussels, Amsterdam are six hours away. So is the the West Coast.

However, I do agree with MmePerdu, at the moment there are better places to spend your travel dollars.

Mark
cdnyul is offline  
Old Jul 21st, 2015, 02:40 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,782
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
"I was only there 48 hours and did not do a lick of reading or research ahead of time."
Looks like your investment of effort and engagement paid off.
Southam is offline  
Old Jul 21st, 2015, 05:12 PM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This reminds me of an old now deleted thread titled 'Montreal Is a Dump'.

It went on & on & on about how underwhelming the place is and I agree-I was there in the past and have Zero desire to ever return.
Sam_Salmon is offline  
Old Jul 21st, 2015, 05:53 PM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 12,126
Received 26 Likes on 4 Posts
I think Montreal is as good a setting as many places if one has a particular reason to be there. For me it was family. I tried hard to love it but after my favorite family member died, there seemed far less reason to stay, for the city itself and then there's winter. I count my time there in winters and, after 2, considered Vancouver but decided to go home, to N. California. I admit, I'm not a city person in general, even tried living in the countryside south of Montreal but finally gave up.
MmePerdu is offline  
Old Jul 21st, 2015, 07:03 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,763
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I can't even fathom anyone thinking MTL to be the "most european" of N.A. cities. You hear English eeeeeeeeverywhere in MTL...

You should have at least gone out to the hinterlands in Quebec if you wanted more European.
NorthwestMale is offline  
Old Jul 22nd, 2015, 06:41 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think there are lots of places in the world that are absolutely awesome places to live--but don't really have much to offer visitors.

I would put Vancouver B.C. in that category, too. Glorious setting, good restaurants, terrific, huge park with waterside walkway--but, not much to do there as a visitor after a couple of days.
elberko is offline  
Old Jul 22nd, 2015, 06:43 AM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,070
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
elberko, I was thinking of that. Montreal probably is a good place to live.. but I wouldn't want to visit there.

That said, the festival was fun and for that at least I wish I were still there.
flygirl is offline  
Old Jul 23rd, 2015, 12:44 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Agree with flygirl. Montreal is a good place to live but it doesn't offer too much for visitors.
KimFionafromUK192 is offline  
Old Jul 23rd, 2015, 05:58 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,716
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have to jump into this conversation, since we frequently visit Montreal. Most visitors limit themselves to the downtown and Old Montreal. The downtown is ok, but nothing special. The old city is charming, but very touristy. To really appreciate Montreal is to relax at a cafe on the plateau, stroll up St Denis on a warm summer evening stopping off at a jazz club, dine outdoors on a tree shaded patio. biking the safe trails that cross the city, mostly on quiet tree lined streets, walking thru the busy, expansive Jean Talon market. no It's not Paris, but we,ve talked to ex-Parisians who have migrated to Montreal and loved it. To enjoy this great city you have to know where and how to enjoy it!
zootsi is offline  
Old Jul 23rd, 2015, 07:33 AM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My wife and I are headed back to Montreal for a couple of days this summer and here's what we're looking forward to:

* dim sum at La Maison Kam Fung (best we've had in the past decade including in Hong Kong and NYC)
* smoked meat, poutine, and smoked-meat poutine
* dinner at Joe Beef (already got a rez)
* jet boat ride (never done this in MTL)
* cycling in the old city and Parc Mont Royal
* jazz
* bagels!

I'm adding Jean Talon market to the list.

Honestly, we can't wait.
msrva is offline  
Old Jul 24th, 2015, 04:58 AM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,093
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Msrva - if you like jazz in a garden setting - www.jardinnelson.com.
Micheline is offline  
Old Jul 25th, 2015, 03:05 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi flygirl,

As a Montrealer, I can tell you that Montreal has always had and will always have lovers and detractors. I like Pittsburgh and I can see why you might see a resemblance to Montreal. Both are older North American near East-coast mid-size cities. Both have history, a distinct character and overall a pretty good quality of life. Both have pleasant parks, gardens, some charming neighbourhoods and activities that make them special. There are ugly sides to Montreal and Pittsburgh too. It's sad the drug problems, graffiti, littering, people with mental health issues not getting the help they need are present and despite many making efforts, the problems persist. Politics can often weigh people down in Montreal. Neither city is Paris, New York, London or DC and as much as I appreciate much about these 4 cities, I would not want or expect Pittsburgh or Montreal to be the same. It seems your expectations of the city were perhaps out of whack with the reality of the city which left you disappointed.

So I've lived in Montreal for nearly 20 years. What do I appreciate about the city? The cycling infrastructure is great by North American standards (we were one of only two North American cities to make the top 20 in a recent survey by a respected cycling magazine), although we've got a long way to go to catch up with Denmark or Holland. I can get from many points A to many points B in the city by bike, which is a delightful way of getting around. The view of the Saint Lawrence River (which you can cross by bike) with the skyline coming in is lovely as are the equivalent views in the other direction from Mount Royal Park (I bike through this park, passing chipmunks and woodpeckers on my way to work). I love strolling the side streets of the Mile End, the Plateau Mont Royal and Outremont neighborhoods, sometimes discovering a charming terrasse or tucked-away cafe with folks out enjoying life. The Musee des Beaux Arts might not be the National Gallery but there are some great temporary exhibits that pass through that I have just loved; I also appreciate what we do have for the permanent exhibitions. The Musee Pointe a Calliere might not be the Museo de Antropologia in Mexico City, but I have enjoyed numerous roving exhibits that have passed through here as well (including a recent one on Aztec culture), as well as the permanent exhibit. The churches might not be Notre Dame de Paris, but I still find some of them incredibly beautiful including the Notre Dame here and the Paroisse de l'Immaculee Conception to name two; Montreal was chosen as a site for an international organ competition because apparently we have quite a number of organs appreciated worldwide including the one at the latter church. I love when some circus performers practice their tightrope walking, etc...in Parc Lafontaine in the summer and in the winter when phenomenal skaters (sometimes 6-year-old girls) practice their axels and spins while listening to classical music on the frozen over pond in Parc Lafontaine festooned with Christmas-like lights all around. Catch the same park on a spring thaw day though and it can look depressing; you'll wonder why anyone would tell you to go to Parc Lafontaine! When I used to go to nightclubs in the '90s, I found the energy electric as a 20-something year old.

Anyhow, I'm sorry Montreal was not to your taste, but it seems like you've found other cities you do enjoy, so I'm glad there are places that suit each of us!

Best wishes, Daniel
Daniel_Williams is offline  
Old Jul 27th, 2015, 07:50 AM
  #15  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,070
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Daniel Williams, thank you for such a thoughtful reply!

I really wanted to love the city. I don't know much about it other than reputation and was really looking forward to my visit. I know 48 hours isn't much. I do want to come back and see some more.
flygirl is offline  
Old Jul 27th, 2015, 04:10 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,204
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 1 Post
I was born, raised and lived in Montreal for many years.

In 1993 we had the opportunity to move to a much warmer climate and away from the constant talk of separation (politics do weigh on you).

I've returned periodically for family functions.

I always felt there was a Montreal complex of superiority. Like no other place is Montreal. I'm not sure why. Maybe I'm defensive about the City.

When people trash Montreal I always think of the time a colleague of mine visited London and was supposed to spend several days in Paris.

Upon their return I asked what they thought of Paris (it's our favorite city). The response was that they returned to London after a day.

"AFTER A DAY?".

To which I was told "THEY SPEAK FRENCH THERE!!!"

I've returned a couple of times over the past few years only to see that my favorite restaurants aren't what they used to be.

I remember picking up ribs from the Bar-B-Barn on Sunday evenings. The one on the West Island is no more and the one on Guy St looks tired and far from full.

I remember Bring Your Own Wine to Prince Arthur and eating at Caverne Grecque. We went a couple of years ago and it was the only restaurant on the block that was still open. Not for long I suspect.

I remember Friday evening ice skating at Beaver Lake, Pratt Park and the Municipal park in Outremont.

I remember my first meal of Chinese food at Lee's Garden on Park Avenue next to the movie theatre.

I remember walking over to Fletcher's Field from Baron Byng High School in May and having some classes under a tree.

Last year we returned for a family event and brought our 7 year old granddaughter. She had a great time rolling down the hills around Beaver Lake. She loves Tim Horton's doughnuts.

After leaving the airport we made it a point to drive to the West Island and stop at Lafleur.

Sadly, most of our friends have also left the city.
Myer is offline  
Old Jul 27th, 2015, 04:23 PM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 12,126
Received 26 Likes on 4 Posts
I often suspect that it isn't the food in places we loved that isn't what it used to be. The places are the same, it's we who aren't. At the time we didn't know any better and, after much experience, now we do.
MmePerdu is offline  
Old Jul 28th, 2015, 10:13 AM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My late wife was a Montrealer. Because of that I had the occasion to visit several times. I felt that Quebec City was more like Europe (namely Paris)...and I also thought of my hometown Boston (Quincy, Mass.) as generally being far more European culturally and historically than anywher else in North America. Personal opinion.

Myer, my wife had gone to Yiddish elemnentary school in Montreal for 8 years. Through her, my childhood Yiddish came back strongly. We'd go days at a time speaking old country Rushiseh Yiddish with some Litvisheh tossed in for flavor. It has helped me immensely in my literary research travels in Eastern Europe where a goodly percentage of the older folks (survivors who came back))speak a halting Yiddish in their 80's+.

"The Yiddish language is drenched with tears. It is much too rich to be silenced".
Isaac Bashevis Singer.
tower is offline  
Old Aug 5th, 2015, 03:17 AM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Montreal was the first "foreign" place I ever visited, as a 12 year old, so it has a special place in my heart. I love hearing French not that far from home in Boston. I don't think anyone has mentioned the botanical gardens, very fine and easy to reach by public transit. And the public markets! Love those too.

I haven't been in about 10 years, so I think it's time for a visit. (I will take a lot of convincing that there are more street people in Montreal than there are in DC, another city I love very much).
CharlotteK is offline  
Old Aug 5th, 2015, 12:43 PM
  #20  
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i would happily move into the omni mont royale hotel for the rest of my life!
j'aime beaucoup la jardin botanique!

AndrewDavid
AndrewDavid is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -