cmstraf

Thanks in large part to Kathie's recommendation, we are spending 5 1/2 days in Kathmandu in November. I have read guidebooks and Kathie's trip report and am beginning to think through which of the many choices we will do. All suggestions welcome; I'm including where we will be when as a guide.
Lonely Planet suggests a mask if you are going to be in Kathmandu more than 2 days and will be trekking. I find the idea unappealing, but would prefer to look stupid than to be stupid. What do you all think? We tend to like days that are full, but also that allow down time to be and rest. Our jet lag is bad some trips, hardly noticeable others. We are flying business (miles) SFO-Seoul-BKK-KTM.

Monday, Nov 2: arrive KTM about 1 pm. Dwarika's Hotel
Tuesday, Nov 3. Dwarika's
Wednesday Nov 4 Dwarika's
Thursday Nov 5 Dwarika's
Fri Nov 6 Dwarika's Resort DHULIKHEL
Sat Nov 7 Hyatt KTM
Sun Nov 8 early flight to Paro, Bhutan

Definites: Everest Mountain flight, seeing Himalayas at dawn at Dhulikhel. Garden in Thamel
To Choose From: All the rest. Interested in World Heritage Sites, one off-the-beaten track experience. I am a bit crowd phobic, but will take DH, valium, and a willing spirit to sooth me and urge me on.

Thanks.

Kathie

If you were staying in downtown KTM, you might want a mask... Staying out at Boudnath, the air is cleaner. I only glanced Dwarika's, so don't know how big the grounds are. The Hyatt has very large, green grounds which helps with the air quality. Why not take a few masks and see whether you need them. (Weather patterns have a lot of do with pollution levels)

In terms of the things you want to do/see: I thought all of the world heritage sights were fascinating. You may have to pick and choose a bit to fit in the ones you want most to see. Both Boudnath and Pashupatinath are relatively close to where you are staying - we walked from the Hyatt, but you may want a taxi from your hotel.

One of your definites, seeing Himalayas at dawn at Dhulikhel, you have no control over. I've been out there at dawn, never glimpsed the mountains. You'll have to decide whether it is worth it to you to get up early enough to be out there at dawn on the off chance you will be able to see them. You will have lots of opportunities to see the Himalayas on this trip - I'd give Dhulikhel a miss.

The Garden of Dreams in Thamel is charming, maybe mostly for the contrast with what is right outside the walls, but it doesn't hold a candle to the three Durbar Squares: Kathmandu, Bhakatupur and Patan (do visit the museum at Patan). I expect you would enjoy the drive out to Changu Narayan, and there are plenty of opportunities for glimpses of the mountains. Get there early and you will be the only visitors. Later, small tour buses come.

What to skip? Maybe Swayambhunath, and if the pollution is bothering you, skip the Durbar Square in Kathamndu and just visit the other two.

Have a wonderful trip!

Kathie

Oh, wait, I just saw that you are staying at Dtarika's at Dhulikhel - so delete my comments about going there at sunrise. You'll be there...

rkkwan

Did not bring and did not use any mask while there last September. A little dusty, but air quality is nothing like the problem in China.

cmstraf

Kathie: Good idea--we'll bring masks.

rkwan: thanks for info. I'm interesting in hearing as much as I can about this from recent experiences.

Kathie: I'm thinking of going to Boudnath Saturday afternoon towards sunset after we get back from Dhlikihel (we are staying at the Hyatt that night) and perhaps again at dawn before we fly out Sunday morning. I decided to spend the night at the resort because of very good deal, someone telling me it's a very special experience and it is something that is usually way beyond our means (as is Dwarika's). So maybe we will do Changu Narayan--with Bhakatupur and make it a whole day's day trip?

I was wondering if any of the three Durbar Squares could be skipped--sounds like of the three, the one in Kathmandu might be the best choice. Is Patan a full day?

cmstraf

p.s. I am VERY aware that we are going to get only a taste of the area, thus want to choose wisely and not make the error of either leaving something essential out or trying to pack everything in.

Kathie

The Patan Durbar Square and the Museum is a half day. Do stop to shop at Mahaguthi - a fair trade crafts shop near Patan. They have a wonderful assortment of things. For years after our last trip, I regretted not buying an armload of pashimas there.

Yes, Changu Narayan plus Bhakatupur would be a nice combination - we did that.

If you have the time/energy for the Kathmandu Durbar Square, I'd go. If you don't, you will have gotten a good taste from Patan and Bhakatupur. Each one is different and Kathmandu is the only place where the living goddess still lives in the Durbar Square.

BTW, you can hire an excellent guide at each Durbar Square if you want one - they will give you a price - $2 or $3.

LancasterLad

The wheels on the bus...

Haven't you already asked similar questions a few months ago?

Nevertheless, I'd definitely be prepared for very poor air qualty, lots of air borne nasties if in close proximity, and use medicated hand gel frequently.

cmstraf

LancasterLad: Thank you for the advice and I apologize if my post was repetitious for you. Actually, it's been very helpful to me. I now have an overview of the Nepal part of our trip:

Monday afternoon: arrive. Pashpatinath
Tues: early am Everest flight(?) Patan Durbar Square, Lonely Planet walk, shop at Maguthi
Wed: early am Everest flight backup (?) Kathmandu. specifics TBD
Thurs: Bhakatupur and Changu Narayan
Fri: Kathmandu am-Dhulikhel
Sat: Dhulikhel-Kathmandu (Hyatt)--Boudnath.
Sun: possible dawn return to Boudnath. AM flight to Bhutan

How does this sound? Of course, could change everything when we get there, but I'm pleased with this framework and ready to go on to read the Snow Leopard and Shopping for Buddhas.
Thanks, all, especially Kathie, who I would love to "show" our Venice if she and Cheryl return there.

LancasterLad

Bhaktapur is best experienced late afternoon/evening, when the day trippers have gone back to Kathmandu, the lights have come on, and the locals hit the streets. We stayed at an atmospheric little place called The Heart of Bhaktapur for a full week during the Bisket Jatra celebrations last year...

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUse...Central_R.html

Definitely give Boudhanath plenty of attention. I think dusk and beyond is best as you can wander [clockwise]around the Stupa area without all the tourists. We stayed at Shechen Monastery guesthouse in Boudhanath for a couple of nights, and loved it...

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUse...al_Region.html

Our favourite place to dine in Boudhanath was Flavor's...

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaur...al_Region.html

Thamel is worth a walk round, even if it's only to pat yourself on the back for not staying there? And the Garden of Dreams is also on the perimeter of Thamel...

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attract...al_Region.html

There's also Swayambhu (Monkey Temple), which is just inside the Kathmandu Ring Road, and only a short taxi ride...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swayambhunath

If Patan is also on your list of possibles, I'd put it below Swayambhu.

We thought that Dhulikhel was a bit underwhelming. We did the walk up to the temples (Kali and Shiva) on the hill, hoping for terrific views. But all got were fine local views, but distant mountain views were completely obliterated by haze.

Kathie

It's interesting, the first time I went to Kathmandu, Bhaktapur was my favorite. There were few tourists, and it seemed we had the place to ourselves. Last time I went Bhaktapur was the place most packed with tourists! So it may well depend on all kinds of variables you have no control over.

The palace at the Durbar Square in Patan has been turned into a museum - many say it is the best museum on the subcontinent. There is a lovely little restaurant in the courtyard. It was quiet when we were there, but thursdays reported that when she was there, a busload of a ytour group was there, so it was not such a great place to eat and contemplate. I'll hope for goos luck on timing for you there.

Boudnath is different at different times of the day. We liked early mornings, circumambulating with the monks as well as evenings with the candles lit and the locals. Only mid-day did we see many tourists. But go whenever you can, and make a couple of trips there if possible. From the Hyatt it's a short walk, which made it convenient for us to make multiple visits.

LancasterLad

Kathie, when was the last time you visited Kathmandu?
And how long did you spend in Kathmandu, and the Valley?

cmstraf

Just finished Shopping for Buddha and loved it! Thanks, Kathie.

cmstraf

Sad to reread my own thread. So glad to have decided to follow advice to go there. Sad for what I will never see. Really sad for this country and people I have grown to care for --via guidebooks, this forum,old ties, renewed ties and Shopping For Buddha, which my husband and I are now reading to each other out loud. Have started Snake Lake his next book. I am, however, going to stop looking at videos for a while. It's one of the things I tell people what to do after traumatic events: limit TV and newspaper exposure.

I wish I could do more to help.

jhubbel

cmstraf,

Don't give up. I was going to do the Annapurna circuit beginning May 1, and diverted to Thailand where I am now, and will be moving on to Myanmar as planned mid-month. My guide for this trip has been in touch, and he, his workers, families and most connected with them are safe, and true to his nature he is dedicating all this time and efforts to helping his countrymen. On our about August 1st, the current word is that things will reopen (stay tuned, who knows) and at that time, you may wish to reconsider your plans. The great mountains will still be there. I strongly believe in finding a way to do business with folks if it is deemed safe enough to do so. While some things may have been lost, the most important things- the rich relationships you gain along the way- will still be available. And to that end, I'd still consider making this journey. I'm going to, as soon as I can get it rescheduled.

Best of luck and travel safely. And yes, bring facemasks. I did the EBC in May 2014 and was surprised at how often I needed it.

cmstraf

Thank you. I am not giving up though am making Plan B. I am glad your guide and family are safe.
WHere are you in Thailand? I really hope you have a good stay.