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Old Feb 14th, 2013, 11:53 AM
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Out Sri Lanka, In Indonesia

Hi Fodorites,

Hope you're all doing well and happily planning your next adventures. It feels like almost everyone on the Asia forum's going to Japan this fall - I cannot be more happy for you all. Japan is definitely one of my all-time favorite destinations, and I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

As some of you know, I'm scheduled to go to Asia, namely Singapore and Sri Lanka, in two weeks time. Unfortunately, I came down with an infection that's sidelining me for a few weeks, meaning I had to cancel my trip. On the bright side, I am recovering each day and will be able to travel in a month or so; hence, this post.

Even before I was planning my trip to Sri Lanka, I had plans for a return visit to Australia in the fall of this year (I visited in 2006 for my first and only time, and fell in love). With some idle time at home, I started doing research and am beginning to piece together the makings of a trip.

I plan on flying into Singapore, staying for 4 nights, before continuing on to Australia - that is until Kathie's recent trip report and some additional reading piqued my interest in Indonesia. Looking into flights, I found that it is relatively easy to travel from Singapore to Australia via Indonesia, and cannot resist the opportunity.

Here's where my friends here come in. Right now, my thought is to allocate 4 nights to Yogyakarta and 5 nights for Bali. I am interested in history, culture, hiking, and especially temples. While I understand that I won't be able to see "everything" in 9 nights, my goal is to get a good introduction to Central Java and Bali and see some of the key sights including Borobudur, Prambanan, and some of the Balinese Hindu temples. With limited time on Bali, I'm not looking for a beach fix, which I'll get in Australia.

My questions: Are 4 nights in Yogyakarta and 5 nights in Bali enough for a good introduction, knowing I'll return? What are some must-see sights, including temples? Would you recommend doing the sights on your own or using the services of a guide, and if so, anyone you would suggest? I'm thinking about staying at the Phoenix in Yogyakarta and am looking for a good boutique hotel in the Ubud area at around US$150-175 a night.

In total I have about 30 days beginning sometime in November. A very rough first attempt at an itinerary follows:

Singapore - 4 nights
Yogyakarta - 4 nights
Bali (Ubud) - 5 nights
Darwin - 3 or 4 nights
Uluru - 3 or 4 nights
Sydney - 7 nights

Thanks in advance for your advice and suggestions.
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Old Feb 14th, 2013, 01:11 PM
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So sorry to hear that your Sri Lanka trip got de-railed.

Indonesia is wonderfully accessible. I can't comment on your Australia time - haven't been there - but your Indonesia time looks good. With 4 nights in central Java, you can visit Borobudur and Prambanan, visit the Dieng Plateau and see the Ramayana Ballet at Prambanan. Five nights in Bali will give you time for relaxing and for visiting temples.

I think this is a perfect introduction to Indonesia.
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Old Feb 14th, 2013, 02:39 PM
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Thanks for your feedback, Kathie. As for Bali, did you have any favorite temples that you would recommend seeing?
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Old Feb 14th, 2013, 03:05 PM
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Aside from the big temple complex at Besakih (the Mother Temple)and the sea temples (Petitenget, Tanah Lot, Ulu Watu) most of the temples in Bali are "working" temples, community oriented and in constant use for daily worship. They are everywhere; I doubt that you could walk 100 meters in Bali without passing a temple or shrine of some sort.

It's best to visit temples during a ceremony. These occur at irregular times -- especially at major Balinese holidays and full & new moons. I'd say the temple at the end of my road has a ceremony about once a week. Same for the beach area adjacent to Petitenget Temple. There's something being celebrated there most every day.

It's hard to get a ceremony, procession and cremation calendar, but if you ask your concierge or guide they'll be able to give you advice. You are welcome to attend as long as you wear a sarong and observe some other formalities that your guide could help you with.

Personally, I like visiting Besakih, but the approach is a gauntlet of aggressive hawkers which somewhat mars the experience. Again, your guide can run interference.

In September and November you should have a lot of choices in Ubud in your price range. October will be a busy month in Bali because of a big APEC conference followed by the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival. Rates will go up during that time. But if you're interested in literature the UWRF is worth attending.

First decide if you want to stay in the town of Ubud itself or in the surrounding countryside. Both have merit, but I prefer the latter. I'd look at Alam Sari, the Komen Group. The Alila is a little bigger, but has a beautiful setting and good facilities. Kayu Manis and Samaya for villa style (though they may be a little higher than your target).
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Old Feb 14th, 2013, 05:35 PM
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Thanks Marmot. I've made note of the temples you suggested and will look at the hotels you've named this weekend.
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Old Feb 14th, 2013, 11:24 PM
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Wow how lucky are you! You have a wonderful trip ahead of you. I think you have chosen the best village to stay at for your first visit to Bali. Ubud itself is a wonderful village and it is also located perfectly for day trips etc.

You have already received great information. But I can't resist suggesting a few things to do while you are in Ubud. Not far from Ubud you have Goa Gaja, Gunung Kawi (also known as Tempaksering) and Tirt Empul. These three themple sites are really beautiful and very different from each other. If you leave early in the morning you can avoid the crowds and you will be back for lunch.
Another great thing I alwasy recommend is doing a rice field walk in Ubud, in Campuhan area. If you drive from Jalan Ubud Raya towards Campuhan, you will see on your right side a sign Sari Organik. This restaurant is located right in the ricefields and if you continue to follow this path you will have a nice 1,5 hour stroll through the ricefield.
Additionally, if you want to see things of Bali in a fun way you should join a mountain downhill bike tour. It takes you to kintamani and from there on a easy way back to Ubud pass villages and ricefields. A great way to see Bali.
Alam Jiwa and Alam Sari are wonderful. You can also consider a suite a Ibah, Hotel Tjampuhan and Kori Ubud. The first two are near Ubud Center in Campuhan area. Have fun and save journeys...!
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Old Feb 15th, 2013, 06:21 AM
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Marmot has, of course, given you some excellent suggestions. I'll have to see if I can find some of my old trip notes, but I enjoyed some of the mountain temples, like Batur.
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Old Feb 15th, 2013, 11:28 AM
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The Phoenix Hotel in Yogyakarta is having a sale. I just booked for 3 nights Aug. 29-Sept. 1 for $77 a night including taxes and breakfast. It's a superior city view room, but this is such a good deal I couldn't pass it up. The best rate Wiedy, who I have planned my 4 day tour with, could get is $83. I booked it on the Accor Hotels website. This is a prepaid rate, non refundable.
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Old Feb 15th, 2013, 01:38 PM
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Just to clarify: I didn't mean that you should only visit big name temples. What I meant to explain is that the temples in Bali are very different from the ancient monuments and temples in Java. In Bali they are in contemporaneous use and every community has its own temple. They are all lovely and much the same.

Alam Shanti and Alam Sari are two different, unconnected places, both very nice. Alam Shanti is near the center of Ubud and Alam Sari is about 30 minutes outside Ubud in the countryside.
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Old Feb 15th, 2013, 02:51 PM
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Thank you all for the wealth of information you're providing me with. I've made note of all the recommendations and will do more research into them. In the meantime, any good guides you would recommend for Yogyakarta and for Bali?
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Old Feb 15th, 2013, 03:30 PM
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You will need a driver in Yogyakarta, and guides at Borobudur and Prambanam. We had Weidy set up our car and driver and he also arranged for guides and got us the best seats at the Ramayana at Prambanam.
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Old Feb 15th, 2013, 05:02 PM
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Thanks Kathie. Would you mind sharing Weidy's contact information?
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Old Feb 15th, 2013, 06:35 PM
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You can reach him at wiedyantara at hotmail dot com

You are welcome to tell him that Kathie from Seattle sent you.
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Old Feb 16th, 2013, 03:28 AM
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Thank you Kathie. I will be sure to let Wiedy know that you recommended him.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2013, 05:10 PM
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Southeast Asia and Australia, here I come!!! I'm pleased to report that my flights are all booked and I'm beginning to make some hotel reservations, as well as guides.

Susiesan, I went ahead and booked rooms at the Phoenix. I paid about $80 a night for them, taxes included.

Kathie, I took your suggestion and contacted Wiedy, who's available on my dates and confirmed him as well. He's very response and easy to communicate with.

I've also contacted Putu in Bali based on the suggestions of a few on this forum, and am about to confirm him as well.

As for accommodations in Bali, I contacted several of the properties that Marmot and Cocomoco suggested. The Komaneka properties turn out to be around $700 a night for the villas for those dates, and way beyond my price range (I usually budget $135-175 a night on my travels). At Alam Shanti, Lakshmi and Saraswati are available. Does anyone have experience with these? How do they compare with the other rooms? Would one of the Alam properties be a better option? Also available are rooms at the Danu and Telaga Mansions at Kajane Mua, as well as Bale Villa at Kajane Yangloni - any thoughts here? Have an inquiry into the Alila as well and am awaiting a response.

Thanks to you all for the guidance you've given me so far. I look forward to your input on my options in Bali.
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Old Mar 4th, 2013, 04:43 AM
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The Indus and the Narmada at Alam Shanti are available as well. Thanks.
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