Lei Yue Mun - seafood district, ok for visitors or will we be ripped off?
Dec 3rd, 2011, 09:08 PM
#1
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Lei Yue Mun - seafood district, ok for visitors or will we be ripped off?
Hi Hong Kong Fodorites
We're researching for our stopover in Hong Kong (on route to Italy) next May. A group of 5 - 3 in mid sixties (our folks) plus Lovener2&Lovener1 (both mid thirties). We have all been to Hong Kong before but for most in the group the last visit was pre-Handover. Our interests are great food, scenery, photography, hiking, and since this is HK, (& my Mum is coming), there will also be shopping.
I'm trying to reacquaint myself with the place and have been reading Fodors plus a couple of guidebooks. We will have 3 days and 2 nights on the stopover. I'm trying to make this leg particularly special (and not completely touristy) for my Dad who lived in HK for a year or so 20 years ago.
So, getting to the first question...
We are all seafood lovers and I'm wondering about a meal at Lei Yue Mun. I have read that as a visitor & without having a local person, I am likely to be charged 3 x extra and receive lower quality seafood.
Does anyone have any advice for navigating through this issue or do we just need to take it on the chin? I've also read that there is a protocol of ordering at the live tank and then taking to a restaurant?
I'd be grateful if someone can please step me through the ins & outs / share their restaurant recommendation (I understand there are many) and suggest possible seafood I should order for 5 adults.
Much appreciated,
Lovener1
We're researching for our stopover in Hong Kong (on route to Italy) next May. A group of 5 - 3 in mid sixties (our folks) plus Lovener2&Lovener1 (both mid thirties). We have all been to Hong Kong before but for most in the group the last visit was pre-Handover. Our interests are great food, scenery, photography, hiking, and since this is HK, (& my Mum is coming), there will also be shopping.
I'm trying to reacquaint myself with the place and have been reading Fodors plus a couple of guidebooks. We will have 3 days and 2 nights on the stopover. I'm trying to make this leg particularly special (and not completely touristy) for my Dad who lived in HK for a year or so 20 years ago.
So, getting to the first question...
We are all seafood lovers and I'm wondering about a meal at Lei Yue Mun. I have read that as a visitor & without having a local person, I am likely to be charged 3 x extra and receive lower quality seafood.
Does anyone have any advice for navigating through this issue or do we just need to take it on the chin? I've also read that there is a protocol of ordering at the live tank and then taking to a restaurant?
I'd be grateful if someone can please step me through the ins & outs / share their restaurant recommendation (I understand there are many) and suggest possible seafood I should order for 5 adults.
Much appreciated,
Lovener1
Dec 4th, 2011, 07:13 PM
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OK here are my thoughts on Lei Yue Mun:
1. It’s pretty touristy. And by that I mean PRC tourists. Listen out for the Mandarin and the Shanghainese and look for the tour buses. There are not a lot of Western tourists. But there are a lot of package mainland tourists, and on Sundays what seem to be a good number of Cantonese lunch tourists. That does not mean it is a bad thing. But it seems to be pretty firmly on the Chinese tourist map.
2. I actually think the village alonge the harbour beyond the seafood shops is very charming, in a ramshackle way, so be sure to walk all the way through covered market seafood area and out to the Tin Hau temple along the water. This will take you through the village area. The temple is in quite a pretty setting with some sacred rocks. (The temple has a resident ghost)
3. The kaido ferry ride over from the Sai Wan Ho is short but quite scenic, and I would try to take it at least one way, rather than just walking to Lei Yue Mun from the MTR station at Yau Tong. Kaido schedules can be found at http://www.td.gov.hk/home/index.htm, click on “Passengers” then “Ferries” then “Services Details of Regular Kaito Ferry Services”.
4. The Museum of Coastal Defense in Sai Wan Ho on Hong Kong Island is very interesting and in a lovely setting on the water, see http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Coastal/en/index.php. This can easily be combined with a trip to Lei Yue Mun, as it is a very easy walk to the ferry pier in Sai Wan Ho from where you can get the kaido over to Lei Yue Mun. There is an interesting
5. The ferry ride from Sai Wan Ho to Tung Lung Island (weekends only or hire a boat for the day) is one of the most scenic in Hong Kong, IMO and well worth doing. You can then get off on Tung Lung and walk around. There are the remains of a Ming Fort and the wild coast here. If you are a photographer, this would be a good place to go. This can easily be combined with a trip to Lei Yue Mun.
6. If your parents can take a bit of an uphill walk, there is a redoubt at Devil’s Peak above Lei Yue Men with absolutely fantastic views of the harbour. This does involve a stiff uphill climb (all paved, some stairs) but the remains of the fort, and the views, are more then worth it. In May it could be quite hot, so bear this in mind. You need about 2 hours for the round trip walk. I can send some pictures if you send me an email at [email protected] to give you an idea.
7. Unless you speak Cantonese, you may just have to take it on the chin with regard to the seafood prices. Just try not to over order. With 5 people, I would say 4 dishes plus a rice or noodle at the end. The only thing I would say for sure to order is steamed fish, which is a Cantonese specality and is usually done very well no matter where you go. I don’t have an particular reccos for a seafood place there, as I have never eaten there.
In any event, the seafood is not going to be local, it is imported, so IMO there is no reason to go all the way to Lei Yeu Mun to have seafood. You can just stay in town, or go to Sai Kung or Lamma where you could hike first, and where you can eat outdoors on the waterfront (one issue with Lei Yue Muen is that there is a dearth of places with outdoor seating). But the little village is interesting and the food is probably as good as you can get elsewhere, so it does not hurt I suppose. It’s more about the fun of the outing.
Seafood is generally fairly expenseive here, regardless of where you go, in my experience. If you send me an email at the address above, I can send you a list of restaurants, including some of my favourite seafood places.
1. It’s pretty touristy. And by that I mean PRC tourists. Listen out for the Mandarin and the Shanghainese and look for the tour buses. There are not a lot of Western tourists. But there are a lot of package mainland tourists, and on Sundays what seem to be a good number of Cantonese lunch tourists. That does not mean it is a bad thing. But it seems to be pretty firmly on the Chinese tourist map.
2. I actually think the village alonge the harbour beyond the seafood shops is very charming, in a ramshackle way, so be sure to walk all the way through covered market seafood area and out to the Tin Hau temple along the water. This will take you through the village area. The temple is in quite a pretty setting with some sacred rocks. (The temple has a resident ghost)
3. The kaido ferry ride over from the Sai Wan Ho is short but quite scenic, and I would try to take it at least one way, rather than just walking to Lei Yue Mun from the MTR station at Yau Tong. Kaido schedules can be found at http://www.td.gov.hk/home/index.htm, click on “Passengers” then “Ferries” then “Services Details of Regular Kaito Ferry Services”.
4. The Museum of Coastal Defense in Sai Wan Ho on Hong Kong Island is very interesting and in a lovely setting on the water, see http://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Coastal/en/index.php. This can easily be combined with a trip to Lei Yue Mun, as it is a very easy walk to the ferry pier in Sai Wan Ho from where you can get the kaido over to Lei Yue Mun. There is an interesting
5. The ferry ride from Sai Wan Ho to Tung Lung Island (weekends only or hire a boat for the day) is one of the most scenic in Hong Kong, IMO and well worth doing. You can then get off on Tung Lung and walk around. There are the remains of a Ming Fort and the wild coast here. If you are a photographer, this would be a good place to go. This can easily be combined with a trip to Lei Yue Mun.
6. If your parents can take a bit of an uphill walk, there is a redoubt at Devil’s Peak above Lei Yue Men with absolutely fantastic views of the harbour. This does involve a stiff uphill climb (all paved, some stairs) but the remains of the fort, and the views, are more then worth it. In May it could be quite hot, so bear this in mind. You need about 2 hours for the round trip walk. I can send some pictures if you send me an email at [email protected] to give you an idea.
7. Unless you speak Cantonese, you may just have to take it on the chin with regard to the seafood prices. Just try not to over order. With 5 people, I would say 4 dishes plus a rice or noodle at the end. The only thing I would say for sure to order is steamed fish, which is a Cantonese specality and is usually done very well no matter where you go. I don’t have an particular reccos for a seafood place there, as I have never eaten there.
In any event, the seafood is not going to be local, it is imported, so IMO there is no reason to go all the way to Lei Yeu Mun to have seafood. You can just stay in town, or go to Sai Kung or Lamma where you could hike first, and where you can eat outdoors on the waterfront (one issue with Lei Yue Muen is that there is a dearth of places with outdoor seating). But the little village is interesting and the food is probably as good as you can get elsewhere, so it does not hurt I suppose. It’s more about the fun of the outing.
Seafood is generally fairly expenseive here, regardless of where you go, in my experience. If you send me an email at the address above, I can send you a list of restaurants, including some of my favourite seafood places.
Dec 4th, 2011, 10:34 PM
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Hi Cicerone
Thanks for such a detailed reply, it's given me lots to think about and research. I had been keen to find another island to visit (did Po Toi last time) so it's great to look at others.
Much appreciated.
Lovener1
Thanks for such a detailed reply, it's given me lots to think about and research. I had been keen to find another island to visit (did Po Toi last time) so it's great to look at others.
Much appreciated.
Lovener1
Dec 4th, 2011, 10:57 PM
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Lei Yue Mun is not an island. It's a little inlet that is part of the Kowloon mainland. It's surrounded by high-rise new towns and light industrial areas; although it also it on the Hong Kong Trail and has some green areas around it. But Po Toi is far more remote compared to it. Not sure what you are looking for. Tung Lung may be more of what you are looking for. (Although there is no seafood restaurant like there is on Po Toi.) The more remote parts of Sai Kung may be what you are looking for as well.
Dec 4th, 2011, 11:42 PM
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I thought your suggestion of LYM plus Tung Lung (such a fabulous name) was great so am looking into that a bit more. Thanks also for the Sai Kung tip, will look into that also.
Am regretting the stopover is so short
Am regretting the stopover is so short
Dec 5th, 2011, 12:38 AM
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You can just go to Lamma Island, with lots of seafood restaurants at Sok Kwu Wan there. So, kill two birds with one stone. Though, the seafood places are not cheap either, especially "Rainbow", which provides free ferry to/from the city.
