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Old Oct 22nd, 2006, 05:40 PM
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Laos/Vietnam -- Need General Advice

Hey all!

So as we're about to embark on our year-in-the-making-and-thanks-to-all-the-Fodorites trip to Thailand and Cambodia in exactly three weeks from today...I've just found out that I'll be joining my partner's parents for a trip to Vietnam and Laos next year in November!

Needless to say, we're feeling very blessed right now!

So, I've been put in charge of planning all the details for this next trip and since we're only at the discovery phase of this trip, I wanted to get some of your initial direction and feedback.

We've been to neither place before and, in keeping, this is a bit overwhelming in trying to even guess at. We're looking to spend about 14 days total in Laos and Vietnam combined.

It seems we've picked the right time of year for both countries, but I want your advice on a few things:

-How long should we stay in Laos and how long in Vietnam?

-Where in Laos is essential to visit? Definitely am interested in Luang Prabang and Vang Viang looks stunning!

-Where in Vietnam is essential to visit? Sounds like staying in the north is probably the best option due to our time constraints. Definitely want to see Halong Bay and Hoi An/Hue look interesting as well.

-Since I planned all of our current trip (the one we're leaving for in 3 weeks) based on your feedback and using local guide...can we plan our trip to Laos and Vietnam just as easily? Or should we look at organized tours (which I really don't like as a rule of thumb.)

-Would we need guides/drivers in any or all of these places?

It's important to note that we're in our early 30s and very adventurous and my partner's parents are in their late 50s and still very active (they just got back from their 3rd safari in Africa)...and we're all very into the "experience" of being in a country, especially one that encapsulates a very non-Western experience. Cities aren't nearly as interesting to us as mist-ridden mountains and beautiful countryside scenery...although we understand that any good trip does include visiting capitals and the occasional urban oasis.

Any and all advice would be greatly, GREATLY appreciated. Thanks again for all your help so far!

Best,
Bill
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Old Oct 22nd, 2006, 06:03 PM
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How wonderful to be planning the next trip before you leave for this one!

First, let me comment on weather. November is rainy in central VN (Hue, Hoi An). Indeed, they have serious flooding approx one year out of every three during November. Take a look at www.weatherbase.com

Luang Prabang is really wonderful, one of my favorite places. Vang Vieng gets mixed reviews. Over on Thorntree, it often gets voted "most spoiled place." Those who call it spoiled note that it has become filled with backpackers drinking and watching old episodes of "Friends" on tv in "every bar in town." Others say you can avoid most of the backpacker scene. So do some research. I haven't been there, but did a fair amount of research before we went to Luang Prabang. Frankly, you could spend a week in LP, soaking up the atmosphere of the lovely town as well as doing day trips outside of town.

I recommend Hanoi and environs, which fits well with your interests. You want to go to Halong Bay, and most people choose an overnight trip there. I spent a week in hanoi (with a day trip to teh Perfume Pagoda) and found lots to keep me occupied in that time.

If it were me (and, obviously, it isn't), I'd do maybe 6 days in LP and eight in Hanoi (with two days of that in Halong and perhaps one other full day trip out of town).
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Old Oct 22nd, 2006, 07:12 PM
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kathie is largely responsible for our trip to luang prabang last year....we liked it very much...it was totally different from any of our other aisan experiences.....we stayed 4 nites which was just about perfect for us...we were 61 when we went so about the parents age...the mode there is relaxed...take a look at the pansea for a hotel....really the best in town...just outside the downtown....food is good there too...no driver necessary except for a couple of hours here or there...

many like about 2 days in vientenne..

i have only been to northern VN...we based ourselves in hanoi which is a marvelous place....i think a driver there makes tons of sense at least for part of the time.l....i personally found one full day at halong bay to be more than enough....imo, forget overnite....we stayed in hyphong for a couple of nites which was fun...not too much there but more vietnamese than some other places...easy access to halong from there...
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Old Oct 22nd, 2006, 07:40 PM
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I went to Vang Viang last year. Kathie's comments are spot on - backpackers rule, "Friends" in every bar/restaurant, also during my visit all the roads were muddy potholes, and accomm' seemed very Spartan. There is however, some remarkable scenery and the main activity is riding the rapids in big tubes. I recommend a short visit.
From VV we took the bus to LP and the scenery through the LP mountain range is breathtaking – I was stunned with the views.
Also try to go to Phongsavan for the Plain of Jars. I didn't make the effort and regret it.
I found LP fascinating, lovely walks through quaint streets with interesting old buildings. The only downside for me was I felt the locals were a tad too greedy and slugging the tourists for every damn thing imaginable.
I also did the ferry trip up the Mehkong (2 days) to Northern Thailand. I thought that was a great adventure, I'm so glad I did it but would probably not do it again.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2006, 08:48 PM
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I am headed to VN this November. This will be my first trip there. You should look into visiting Sapa by train from Hanoi. I think that you will find "mist-ridden mountains and beautiful countryside scenery" there.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2006, 10:14 PM
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I'm not a big fan of Vang Vieng either, I would suggest more time in Luang Prabang or you might head up to Muang Ngoi Nuea for a couple of days. (4 hours to Nong Khiaw by road, 1 hour by boat)

A week in Northern Vietnam would be enough to take in Hanoi, Sapa and Halong Bay. If you are keen on Hoi An (and it is a nice place) perhaps skip Sapa. You can book your Halong Bay trip in Hanoi, for the rest of it you won't really need guides.

http://www.travelsinasia.com/Vietnam/Vietnam.htm

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Old Oct 23rd, 2006, 03:38 PM
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Thanks everyone for your advice so far...Kathie & Bob, as always, thanks a million!

Still have some questions to keep you busy:

If we do both Laos and Vietnam, I'm assuming it might make more sense to fly from LAX to Hong Kong and onwards (as opposed to BKK which looks to be out of the way for a trip like this.)

Any recommended airlines? For our Thailand trip this month we're doing Evergreen on EVA, which is a great option for us. Any suggestions for a great premium economy option (or fantastic coach) for this trip?

That's it for now...
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Old Oct 23rd, 2006, 04:05 PM
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You will love Vietnam and Laos. Luang Prabang is becoming more and more popular. I was there in November, considered the beginning of the tourist season and it was already beginning to get crowded - not what you want in a small, peaceful town like this. Accomodations can be tight. Do your research and book early, as there are not enough rooms to accomodate all the people. There are several grat restaurants, which is good, as there is not much night life. If you are active, there are two good tour companies that do more authentic day trips, like biking through the countryside and hiking into Hmong villages. Not as touristy as some of the ones in Thailand. You have to be careful of flight schedules, as they do not always run every day and can fill up quickly. It can be tricky booking from US.

In Vietnam, you don't mnetion Saigon (Ho Chi Min City). You would have to fly from Hanoi, but it's worth it. There are several day trip options. trips along the Mekong, Cu CHi tunnels. You're partners parents will certainly have a different perspective about war related areas. All for now, you have a full year to plan.

In Vietnam, you could also
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Old Oct 24th, 2006, 04:36 AM
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Re Laos and Vietnam:

If I had my time again, I would fly to Luang Prabang, and spend as many days there as possible either staying at La Residence Phou Vao (a short distance out of the centre) or the Souvannaphoum ( smaller but great service and within walking distance of the centre. Get a room overlooking the pool). I would book a one or two night tour from Luang Prabang (there are endless travel agents in the centre) taking me to the Plain of Jars, Vang Vieng and ending up in Vientiane (but be aware that accommodation at the Plain of Jars is basic).The scenery over the mountains is stunning. In Vientiane I would stay at the Green Park Boutique Hotel- beautiful rooms and a short taxi ride or longish walk to the daily market --or The Settha Palace, Old Colonial. Transport in a “jumbo” is cheap. You can hire a jumbo driver by the day. We met our driver, Thom, at Vientiane bus station, (the one by the market near Green Park Hotel).Very smiley, speaks good English.

I have written several reviews on Laos which may be of help:

Luang Prabang
http://www.epinions.com/content_212779372164

The Plain of Jars.
http://www.epinions.com/content_213614038660

Vientiane
http://www.epinions.com/content_217881874052

I agree with Kathie. In Vietnam, Hue suffers from flooding in November.
Saigon is bustling and full of life. There is so much to see and do. We stayed at the Majestic. Currently it is about $100 per night, great value, wonderful breakfast. On the other hand, we loved Hanoi. We stayed at the Hanoi Opera. Not really central but lovely staff. We also went to the Perfume Pagoda (beautiful scenery with a fair amount of climbing) and Halong Bay. No upmarket hotels in Halong Bay, so a day trip might be the answer or a trip on one of the upmarket junks sounds good. I think the one I liked was called Emeraude and two days (one night) cost around $170 per person. Unfortunately our trips to Vietnam were before I started writing reviews as a hobby—so no reviews there. Sorry.

You can fly to Vietnam from Vientiane.

Best of luck,

Gill.
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