India, here we come
Dec 18th, 2008, 04:55 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
India, here we come
My wife and I are planning a trip to India next year, so I'm starting planning now.
We will certainly be doing the River Hoogli cruise ex Kolkata, but from there it's a bit of an open book.
Interested in the best place to see a tiger (yeah, I know...but my wife is nuts about them since seeing wildlife in Manas National Park in 2007) and was thinking about the Sunderbans.
Also considering a train trip down south using either the Golden Chariot or the Deccan Odyssey, and using homestays and budget-style hotels in Goa and Kerala.
Assuming the cruise plus time in Kolkata taks up 10 days, I have about another 10 days to fill.
Like to laze on a pleasant beach somewhere for at least 3 of them.
Not really all that fussed about where else I go.
Suggestions welcome, especially in relation to the "lazing on the beach" part.
I like photography, BTW ( my website is http://jmprphotography.com ) so anything that fits in with that would be good.
I also write travel for several newspapers and magazines (some examples on my website).
We went to Assam in 2007 (cruised the Brahmaputra and stayed in a jungle lodge near the border of India and Bhutan) and toured Agra and Jaipur, so I am not interested in visiting them again - not that I disliked them, but want something else this time!
We will certainly be doing the River Hoogli cruise ex Kolkata, but from there it's a bit of an open book.
Interested in the best place to see a tiger (yeah, I know...but my wife is nuts about them since seeing wildlife in Manas National Park in 2007) and was thinking about the Sunderbans.
Also considering a train trip down south using either the Golden Chariot or the Deccan Odyssey, and using homestays and budget-style hotels in Goa and Kerala.
Assuming the cruise plus time in Kolkata taks up 10 days, I have about another 10 days to fill.
Like to laze on a pleasant beach somewhere for at least 3 of them.
Not really all that fussed about where else I go.
Suggestions welcome, especially in relation to the "lazing on the beach" part.
I like photography, BTW ( my website is http://jmprphotography.com ) so anything that fits in with that would be good.
I also write travel for several newspapers and magazines (some examples on my website).
We went to Assam in 2007 (cruised the Brahmaputra and stayed in a jungle lodge near the border of India and Bhutan) and toured Agra and Jaipur, so I am not interested in visiting them again - not that I disliked them, but want something else this time!
Dec 18th, 2008, 05:14 PM
#2
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi mitch: Definately DO NOT DO Sunderbans. Trust me.
Golden Chariot is much less expensive than Deccan Odyssey. [on the faint assumption you're paying]Do that one. Very fab. You'll like -but exhausting. Do Bangalore to Goa route. That way you end up at beach.
Golden Chariot is much less expensive than Deccan Odyssey. [on the faint assumption you're paying]Do that one. Very fab. You'll like -but exhausting. Do Bangalore to Goa route. That way you end up at beach.
Dec 18th, 2008, 05:42 PM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dogster, had I trusted you on Halong Bay I would have missed out on an absolutely spiffing voyage *lol*.
What's so wrong and so bad about the Sunderbans and the Tiger Camp?
And is the Hoogli worth doing, really? How does it compare to the Brahmaputra?
What's so wrong and so bad about the Sunderbans and the Tiger Camp?
And is the Hoogli worth doing, really? How does it compare to the Brahmaputra?
Dec 18th, 2008, 05:58 PM
#4
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You don’t indicate what time of year you are going, so you might want to look at weattherbase.com when choosing possible locations.
I wish I could tell you the “best” place to see tigers, I would just say that can never be guaranteed. You will see lots of wildlife and if fortune smiles on you, some tiger. India is not Africa, but as you have been to Assam you probably know what to expect. But the Sunderbahns, if you decide to go there, may be as good a place as any for that. Jim Corbett may be another. Certainly Bandhavgar and Ranthambore are good choices too.
One thing to consider as a photographer (or just a traveler) is actually traveling to India <i>during</i> monsoon season, esp in the south as it is breaking. You would be sure to get some great photos. Of course it is hotter then, and wet and there can be floods, but would be quite memorable.
Lazing on beach in Goa or Kerala I think you have covered (although I would certainly recco a houseboat for lazing in Kerala), you could also consider the lovely east coast south of Chennai esp around Pondicherry. And then you can include places like Madurai, the Technicolor temples are great there for photography. (Although Madurai could be covered as part of a trip to Kerala too.) That coast has a different rainy season, it is rainy there now (generally October to early Jan) so this may or may not work with your planned itin.
Although I have not taken any of the them, the luxury train trips in India have never appealed to me, as it always appears from the itin that you spend such a short amount of time in any place; you are bused in an out for a few hours and don’t spend an overnight anyplace. It is like taking a cruise to Europe and “seeing” Rome or Florence for 8 hours; you don’t get a real feel for the place. (I don’t like bus tours, even day bus tours, for the same reason and have done maybe 5 in my whole travelling career.) Certainly the Deccan region is interesting, so perhaps just doing a bit of it on your own rather than by train would work as well.
India is such vast country with such a range of geography and culture that it is almost hard to choose. If you have not been to Varanasi, I would really suggest you think about that, alternatively I think Rikisesh is very interesting and barely touristed and the surrounding hillside areas are lovely. Haridwar is easy to include as part of that. Then there is Hyderabad, so interesting with its heavy Muslim influence and rich past. And then places like Ladakh or even Darjeeling or Simla. And then the small villages of Gujarat with their women weaving textiles and beautiful art in the the Elora and Ajanta caves in Mahahrastra. Or really modern Bangalore with its microbrewey pubs and Infosys campus, contrasted by Mysore just 2 hours away by train. It’s really a hard choice. You might do some more reading and see what interests you.
I wish I could tell you the “best” place to see tigers, I would just say that can never be guaranteed. You will see lots of wildlife and if fortune smiles on you, some tiger. India is not Africa, but as you have been to Assam you probably know what to expect. But the Sunderbahns, if you decide to go there, may be as good a place as any for that. Jim Corbett may be another. Certainly Bandhavgar and Ranthambore are good choices too.
One thing to consider as a photographer (or just a traveler) is actually traveling to India <i>during</i> monsoon season, esp in the south as it is breaking. You would be sure to get some great photos. Of course it is hotter then, and wet and there can be floods, but would be quite memorable.
Lazing on beach in Goa or Kerala I think you have covered (although I would certainly recco a houseboat for lazing in Kerala), you could also consider the lovely east coast south of Chennai esp around Pondicherry. And then you can include places like Madurai, the Technicolor temples are great there for photography. (Although Madurai could be covered as part of a trip to Kerala too.) That coast has a different rainy season, it is rainy there now (generally October to early Jan) so this may or may not work with your planned itin.
Although I have not taken any of the them, the luxury train trips in India have never appealed to me, as it always appears from the itin that you spend such a short amount of time in any place; you are bused in an out for a few hours and don’t spend an overnight anyplace. It is like taking a cruise to Europe and “seeing” Rome or Florence for 8 hours; you don’t get a real feel for the place. (I don’t like bus tours, even day bus tours, for the same reason and have done maybe 5 in my whole travelling career.) Certainly the Deccan region is interesting, so perhaps just doing a bit of it on your own rather than by train would work as well.
India is such vast country with such a range of geography and culture that it is almost hard to choose. If you have not been to Varanasi, I would really suggest you think about that, alternatively I think Rikisesh is very interesting and barely touristed and the surrounding hillside areas are lovely. Haridwar is easy to include as part of that. Then there is Hyderabad, so interesting with its heavy Muslim influence and rich past. And then places like Ladakh or even Darjeeling or Simla. And then the small villages of Gujarat with their women weaving textiles and beautiful art in the the Elora and Ajanta caves in Mahahrastra. Or really modern Bangalore with its microbrewey pubs and Infosys campus, contrasted by Mysore just 2 hours away by train. It’s really a hard choice. You might do some more reading and see what interests you.
Dec 18th, 2008, 06:16 PM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ah, Cicerone. I knew you would offer an absorbing insight into India. Shame I can't sit down in a sidewalk cafe for an hour or three and chat. It would be fascinating.
As for the time of year, it will probably in sometime in the latter half of next year (2009). Weather doesn't bother me too much, and I adore monsoonal type rain!
I am not a luxury lover myself..but generally most of the readers of my articles tend to be, as they have indeed been wiser than I and have hefty superannuation accounts on which to thrive! I take what I can get! And if nothing pops up, I simply go el cheapo!
My wife - like most 60 yo women - also enjoys at least a decent shower and non-squatting toilet each nght!
I will certainly check out the east coast and Pondicherry, as you suggest.
If you have any tips about good homestays and budget hotels, I would appreciate it. You can email me if you like at [email protected]
As for the time of year, it will probably in sometime in the latter half of next year (2009). Weather doesn't bother me too much, and I adore monsoonal type rain!
I am not a luxury lover myself..but generally most of the readers of my articles tend to be, as they have indeed been wiser than I and have hefty superannuation accounts on which to thrive! I take what I can get! And if nothing pops up, I simply go el cheapo!
My wife - like most 60 yo women - also enjoys at least a decent shower and non-squatting toilet each nght!
I will certainly check out the east coast and Pondicherry, as you suggest.
If you have any tips about good homestays and budget hotels, I would appreciate it. You can email me if you like at [email protected]
Dec 18th, 2008, 06:37 PM
#6
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hoogli is totally different from Brahmahputra. 100%. Just wonderful. Lush, green, busy, bizarre. Just do it.
I went on a three night boat trip out of Kolkata to the Sunderbans last trip. I've never mentioned it because it was dreadful from start to finish. Sunderbans as a place is awful. You know those smelly mangrove swamps you see above Cairns. Bung that on a lowlying island, stick a fence around it. Make a wire tunnel from river to viewing platform 300 metres inland, share platform with 100 other excited Indian tourists and their noisy children in the middle of the day and wait for wild animals to appear.
The tigers are, in the meantime, as far away from any of you as they can possibly manage.
Think back to suburban Adelaide in the Fifies. Remember those mini-golf places with concrete palaces and chipped concrete scultures? Add a mound of dust. This may well be your Tiger Resort.
Awful beyond all comprehension. You will see one stray Bambi, three confused birds and a snail.
Indian game parks are generally horrid, over-managed things. Tigers will cost you mucho $$ to go see [and a lot of travelling time to there].
Better to get your good wife completely drunk, take her to a zoo and tell she's been to India. That'd be much easier.
As for trains, I have a badly written decription of the Golden Odyssey at the top of my long Great Stumble Forward: India post. That adresses some of Cicerone's concerns.
I'm really glad I did it, simply because the hassle of getting to all those places without the grind, the crappy hotels and food en route was an O.K. trade off to me. And those pictures of the train don't lie. It's phenomenal.
I went on a three night boat trip out of Kolkata to the Sunderbans last trip. I've never mentioned it because it was dreadful from start to finish. Sunderbans as a place is awful. You know those smelly mangrove swamps you see above Cairns. Bung that on a lowlying island, stick a fence around it. Make a wire tunnel from river to viewing platform 300 metres inland, share platform with 100 other excited Indian tourists and their noisy children in the middle of the day and wait for wild animals to appear.
The tigers are, in the meantime, as far away from any of you as they can possibly manage.
Think back to suburban Adelaide in the Fifies. Remember those mini-golf places with concrete palaces and chipped concrete scultures? Add a mound of dust. This may well be your Tiger Resort.
Awful beyond all comprehension. You will see one stray Bambi, three confused birds and a snail.
Indian game parks are generally horrid, over-managed things. Tigers will cost you mucho $$ to go see [and a lot of travelling time to there].
Better to get your good wife completely drunk, take her to a zoo and tell she's been to India. That'd be much easier.
As for trains, I have a badly written decription of the Golden Odyssey at the top of my long Great Stumble Forward: India post. That adresses some of Cicerone's concerns.
I'm really glad I did it, simply because the hassle of getting to all those places without the grind, the crappy hotels and food en route was an O.K. trade off to me. And those pictures of the train don't lie. It's phenomenal.
Dec 18th, 2008, 06:45 PM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hmmmmm....
Sounds like hell on earth....you might be right...
Sorta like the stinky mangrove swamps north of Port Adelaide....where there's prolly more chance of seeing a tiger (albeit escaped!!!) *rotfl* At least they have decent taxpayer-paid boardwalks...
Sounds like hell on earth....you might be right...
Sorta like the stinky mangrove swamps north of Port Adelaide....where there's prolly more chance of seeing a tiger (albeit escaped!!!) *rotfl* At least they have decent taxpayer-paid boardwalks...
Dec 18th, 2008, 07:06 PM
#8
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
With twenty days you haven't much room to move. Your trip has already written itself:
Kolkata 1 night
Hoogli - 7 nights
Kolkata 1 night
Fly to Bangalore 1 night
Train 6 nights
Get off in Goa 3 nights.
Fly back to your exit point.
20 days. ish. Your only concern is to connect last day of Hoogli and first day of Golden Chariot. The web sites will show you those key days.
Kolkata 1 night
Hoogli - 7 nights
Kolkata 1 night
Fly to Bangalore 1 night
Train 6 nights
Get off in Goa 3 nights.
Fly back to your exit point.
20 days. ish. Your only concern is to connect last day of Hoogli and first day of Golden Chariot. The web sites will show you those key days.
Dec 18th, 2008, 07:10 PM
#9
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dec 18th, 2008, 08:06 PM
#11
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you're going on Deccan Odyssey only do the last 4 day segment Goa to Mumbai. The first three day chunk is reputedly boring [this from the boss of the company that sells the tickets].
I reckon you need to get your freebies organised before you can plan anything. Hoogli is a MUST, free train is a MUST. If paying, only luxury train remotely affordable is Golden Chariot.
[the new one in Rajasthan is going for a mere $1600 A DAY double.] I guess you know this site:
www.theluxurytrains.com
I reckon you need to get your freebies organised before you can plan anything. Hoogli is a MUST, free train is a MUST. If paying, only luxury train remotely affordable is Golden Chariot.
[the new one in Rajasthan is going for a mere $1600 A DAY double.] I guess you know this site:
www.theluxurytrains.com
Dec 18th, 2008, 08:41 PM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks dogster.
Interesting. Couldn't get the link to work on Firefox, so searched for it on Yahoo, which said the website was potentially dangerous - and even when I clicked it, it said "not available".
But I subsequently tried searching for it on Google, located the same site with no warning, and went to it without any hassles.
Quite a nice site. But I hate places where the vast majority don't publish their rates.
I'm in the up to $100AUS market. Sadly, I'm not a wealthy playwright and producer like you.
Interesting. Couldn't get the link to work on Firefox, so searched for it on Yahoo, which said the website was potentially dangerous - and even when I clicked it, it said "not available".
But I subsequently tried searching for it on Google, located the same site with no warning, and went to it without any hassles.
Quite a nice site. But I hate places where the vast majority don't publish their rates.
I'm in the up to $100AUS market. Sadly, I'm not a wealthy playwright and producer like you.
Dec 18th, 2008, 10:18 PM
#13
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The rates are there. But it's a new site and the places check out really well.
Homestay is a great way to go too, I'm discovering, if you're in the mood. But it's not relaxing.
By the way, keep an eagle eye out for super cheapo prices at the Oberoi Kolkata - you'll be amazed at what you can get there. Go to their website. It is the hotel of choice.
Homestay is a great way to go too, I'm discovering, if you're in the mood. But it's not relaxing.
By the way, keep an eagle eye out for super cheapo prices at the Oberoi Kolkata - you'll be amazed at what you can get there. Go to their website. It is the hotel of choice.
Dec 18th, 2008, 10:36 PM
#14
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We were in India 3 years ago and spent 3 nights at Ranthambore and saw a tiger on each of 3 morning safaris. We also did an afternoon safari and saw 3 leopards. I know we were extremly lucky ! I would have still loved it even if we hadn't seen tigers, the parc is beautiful.
Here are some photos if you are interested of the parc :
http://kellyee21.free.fr/asia/india/part1/index4.html
Have a great trip, I so want to go back !
Here are some photos if you are interested of the parc :
http://kellyee21.free.fr/asia/india/part1/index4.html
Have a great trip, I so want to go back !
Dec 18th, 2008, 11:45 PM
#16
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are you replying to me, Mitch, if so thanks. I looked at yours after I posted my message, WOW! Mine can't compare, those are fantastic. That trip I had a Canon S2IS, I like it as far as a point and shoot, especially the zoom. Now I want to go back with my Canon 40D.
Dec 19th, 2008, 12:27 AM
#17
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Canon 40D's are great cameras, Kelly. I use a Pentax K10D (apart from Vietnam and Cambodia when I 'cut' my teeth on a point and shoot Panasonic FZ5. I should have gotten a Canon tho.... Just didn't have the money at the time.
Dec 19th, 2008, 10:51 PM
#18
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mitch, for hotels I assume you have seen my suggestions in previous posts to pick up a copy of Alistair Sawday's book called <i>Special Places to Stay India</i>, or see their website at http://sawdays.co.uk/, click on the book for India. Also try neemranahotels.com as they run interesting hotels, and have several on the coast of Tamil Nadu. I also like the “high end” reccos from the Lonely Planet book which are good value for money (although even they now recco the Imperial which while a fantastic hotel, is hardly in the budget range).
I do recall an article in <i>Architectural Digest</i> from this past summer, I think, about a homestay in the Western Ghats in Tamil Nadu which is a old house which has been renovated by an Englishman and looked really interesting. I carefully cut out the article, and now of course I can’t find it among my papers, but will keep searching. Not too helpful I know, but perhaps you can search archives of the AD.
One place which I have had on my list is Phillip Kutty’s Farm on one of the backwaters near Allepy in Kerala, where I had been for lunch many years ago but would like to go back and stay at some point, see see http://www.philipkuttysfarm.com/
I do recall an article in <i>Architectural Digest</i> from this past summer, I think, about a homestay in the Western Ghats in Tamil Nadu which is a old house which has been renovated by an Englishman and looked really interesting. I carefully cut out the article, and now of course I can’t find it among my papers, but will keep searching. Not too helpful I know, but perhaps you can search archives of the AD.
One place which I have had on my list is Phillip Kutty’s Farm on one of the backwaters near Allepy in Kerala, where I had been for lunch many years ago but would like to go back and stay at some point, see see http://www.philipkuttysfarm.com/
Dec 20th, 2008, 12:24 AM
#19
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dec 21st, 2008, 04:51 PM
#20
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, but that does look interestings. I did find the AD arcticle, and the one in AD is called Pallam Palace and only has a postal address and e-mail address. When I Google it I come up with one reference to it being a hotel but no actual website. But I am not really the best person at Google searches so you may have more luck.
The AD articles gives this info:
Pallam Palace
Rajakad Estate Manjelparappu
B.O.. Dindigul District
Tamil Nadu 624212, India
91-4542-2243-23
[email protected]
or [email protected].
The house is featured in the August 2008 AD. It is owned by Francis Fry and was restored by he and his father Jeremy Fry who was an industrial designer.
The AD articles gives this info:
Pallam Palace
Rajakad Estate Manjelparappu
B.O.. Dindigul District
Tamil Nadu 624212, India
91-4542-2243-23
[email protected]
or [email protected].
The house is featured in the August 2008 AD. It is owned by Francis Fry and was restored by he and his father Jeremy Fry who was an industrial designer.
