Cambodia for a lazy researcher
Jan 11th, 2010, 07:11 PM
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Cambodia for a lazy researcher
I’d like to expand a bit on the comment I piggybacked on to emptynest’s thread.
We (I, husband and 25 year old son) will be in Siem Reap for five days next week. All of us are keenly interested in art, architecture, history, culture etc. but all of us are brain addled by the wealth of information available to us and in consequence have done nothing at all to plan our itinerary. (Well, not exactly nothing. Have Dawn Rooney’s book. Have bookmarked and plan to study Kathie/Cheryl’s excellent website. Printed Offwego’s restaurant list. Perused various trip reports.)
Actually, this minimal planning approach is somewhat deliberate: we (mainly me) tend to micro-manage and some serendipity seems in order here.
We prefer to autodidact vs extensive guide input, but will for sure need transportation.
We’re staying at La Residence D’Angkor. I hope you only have positive comments as it’s too late to change.
What’s the weather like now? Rainy? Cool or still hot as blazes?
1. Temples to visit
A friend gave us these as his top picks. We’d like to concentrate on a handful, maybe re-visit, rather than trying to see them all. Any other must-sees?
Preah Khan
Beng Mealea
Banteay Srei
Ta Prohm
Ta Som
Angkor Wat
Bayon
2. Restaurants
So much to eat and so little time. As noted, we have Lori’s list
Le Malraux was also recommended.
3. Other things to do
Visit to Pompong Phhluk was recommended.
We (I, husband and 25 year old son) will be in Siem Reap for five days next week. All of us are keenly interested in art, architecture, history, culture etc. but all of us are brain addled by the wealth of information available to us and in consequence have done nothing at all to plan our itinerary. (Well, not exactly nothing. Have Dawn Rooney’s book. Have bookmarked and plan to study Kathie/Cheryl’s excellent website. Printed Offwego’s restaurant list. Perused various trip reports.)
Actually, this minimal planning approach is somewhat deliberate: we (mainly me) tend to micro-manage and some serendipity seems in order here.
We prefer to autodidact vs extensive guide input, but will for sure need transportation.
We’re staying at La Residence D’Angkor. I hope you only have positive comments as it’s too late to change.
What’s the weather like now? Rainy? Cool or still hot as blazes?
1. Temples to visit
A friend gave us these as his top picks. We’d like to concentrate on a handful, maybe re-visit, rather than trying to see them all. Any other must-sees?
Preah Khan
Beng Mealea
Banteay Srei
Ta Prohm
Ta Som
Angkor Wat
Bayon
2. Restaurants
So much to eat and so little time. As noted, we have Lori’s list
Le Malraux was also recommended.
3. Other things to do
Visit to Pompong Phhluk was recommended.
Jan 11th, 2010, 07:15 PM
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Since you've given me an invaluable wealth of information for our upcoming trip, marmot, I will only say this in return: DO NOT miss a sunset at Pre Rup temple. It's one of the most magical and spiritual travel experiences I've ever had. Sitting on the top of an ancient temple with folks from about 20 others nations all in complete and utter silence watching a magnificent sunset in a completely alien landscape (perhaps not as alien to you--but I still think you'd rather enjoy it) was just incapable of being described. You must experience it.
Looking forward to your TR!
Looking forward to your TR!
Jan 12th, 2010, 03:39 AM
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On my last trip there in October, I was mostly unplanned. I had a few places I wanted to see, but mostly played it by ear.
Of your temple list, I would be tempted to give Ta Prohm a miss. It's so over-run with tourists these days that it's hard to enjoy. Preah Khan, Ta Som, and especially Beng Mealea will give you a similar (or better) experience without the crowds.
Lori's list is a good one. I would add (I know, too many already) For Life, a little hole-in-the-wall on the quiet alley north of pub street, just up from Miss Wong's (stop there for pre/post dinner drinks).
Of your temple list, I would be tempted to give Ta Prohm a miss. It's so over-run with tourists these days that it's hard to enjoy. Preah Khan, Ta Som, and especially Beng Mealea will give you a similar (or better) experience without the crowds.
Lori's list is a good one. I would add (I know, too many already) For Life, a little hole-in-the-wall on the quiet alley north of pub street, just up from Miss Wong's (stop there for pre/post dinner drinks).
Jan 12th, 2010, 04:44 AM
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Sorry, but I disagree with Michael. Ta Prohm was one of our favorite sights, despite the frustration of having all the tourists. One word of advise - be sure to try to get your sunrise or sunset pictures early in your trip as the weather may not cooperate on your first try. We attempted to get a great sunrise and sunset, but both times were unsuccessful due to cloudy weather.
Jan 12th, 2010, 06:54 AM
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It will be hot, hot, hot. I think that's the only kind of weather they have in Siem Reap!
The temples that held the most magic for us where those where we were the only visitors. But some of the most popular temples are also not to be missed - The Bayon is always filled with people, but I can't imagine passing it up. Ask you driver to take you to Banteay Srei at sunrise or sunset when it is less likely to be crowded, It's such a small temple that the crowds really do interfere.
We managed to have Angkor Wat virtually to ourselves one morning right afer sunrise. We did an hour of walking meditation before people started arriving.
Enjoy your trip! I found Angkor to be just magical.
The temples that held the most magic for us where those where we were the only visitors. But some of the most popular temples are also not to be missed - The Bayon is always filled with people, but I can't imagine passing it up. Ask you driver to take you to Banteay Srei at sunrise or sunset when it is less likely to be crowded, It's such a small temple that the crowds really do interfere.
We managed to have Angkor Wat virtually to ourselves one morning right afer sunrise. We did an hour of walking meditation before people started arriving.
Enjoy your trip! I found Angkor to be just magical.
Jan 12th, 2010, 08:23 AM
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Marmot - Your list of temples looks good. We liked Pre Rup as well (though we didn't go there for sunset). We found the sunset experience to be not worth the hype. Would have much rather preferred to have stayed back in one of the less crowded temples or gone to Angkor Wat which we heard is not crowded during sunset.
We were in Sra Srang early in the morning and found it beautiful and serene, so I imagine sun rise there would be lovely.
Agree with Kathie above, stick around in Angkor Wat after sunrise and you'll have to place to yourselves. We did!
We loved our morning out on the Tonle Sap visiting Kompong Phhluk. We were there in October during the wet season, so the water levels were high.
You can click on my ID to see our trip report and pictures, if you are interested. There is a separate gallery for Kompong Phhluk.
We also enjoyed an Apsara Dance performance. While the experience may be touristy, it was nice to see the resurgance of Khmer art.
As for restaurants, we really enjoyed AHA for dinner and Viroths for lunch. But, I think you already have the very long and good list that Lori put together.
Enjoy your trip!
We were in Sra Srang early in the morning and found it beautiful and serene, so I imagine sun rise there would be lovely.
Agree with Kathie above, stick around in Angkor Wat after sunrise and you'll have to place to yourselves. We did!
We loved our morning out on the Tonle Sap visiting Kompong Phhluk. We were there in October during the wet season, so the water levels were high.
You can click on my ID to see our trip report and pictures, if you are interested. There is a separate gallery for Kompong Phhluk.
We also enjoyed an Apsara Dance performance. While the experience may be touristy, it was nice to see the resurgance of Khmer art.
As for restaurants, we really enjoyed AHA for dinner and Viroths for lunch. But, I think you already have the very long and good list that Lori put together.
Enjoy your trip!
Jan 12th, 2010, 08:42 AM
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Oh, it's not so hot right now. 32C or so, dry and dusty.
Favorite temples? Everyone has their list, but no one is you and it's best to go with the flow; there will be ones along the way between point a and b and you just holler "stop". I'd just make sure I had a good driver (shall I arrange you one or are you doing it through your hotel?) and then just hand him your list. If he can't quickly and assertively figure out an efficient agenda, get a different driver. Sit back and relax. I really only see about 2 to 2-1/2 days of touring in your list above. You've got time to do other stuff and relax and that's good.
If you want an authentic fishing village experience, add another couple of hours and go somewhere more interesting than Kompong Phhluk, but only if you can find a driver who knows where to go, where the good boats are, etc (hint, hint) Email me if you want to go with us on Sunday (4 others + me and a driver are going in a 10 seater van- 6 am departure, return about noon)
Other things to do:
Massage at the new Frangiapani
You like textiles as I recall; there are several good shops that sell fair-trade/hand made and there are some small weaving coops sprouting up here and there that do nice work. Starting to see some good pottery lately as well.
The Museum is getting better reviews if you are museum people and/or want to escape the heat.
The hotel is fabulous. You chose well.
Look forward to seeing you here~
Favorite temples? Everyone has their list, but no one is you and it's best to go with the flow; there will be ones along the way between point a and b and you just holler "stop". I'd just make sure I had a good driver (shall I arrange you one or are you doing it through your hotel?) and then just hand him your list. If he can't quickly and assertively figure out an efficient agenda, get a different driver. Sit back and relax. I really only see about 2 to 2-1/2 days of touring in your list above. You've got time to do other stuff and relax and that's good.
If you want an authentic fishing village experience, add another couple of hours and go somewhere more interesting than Kompong Phhluk, but only if you can find a driver who knows where to go, where the good boats are, etc (hint, hint) Email me if you want to go with us on Sunday (4 others + me and a driver are going in a 10 seater van- 6 am departure, return about noon)
Other things to do:
Massage at the new Frangiapani
You like textiles as I recall; there are several good shops that sell fair-trade/hand made and there are some small weaving coops sprouting up here and there that do nice work. Starting to see some good pottery lately as well.
The Museum is getting better reviews if you are museum people and/or want to escape the heat.
The hotel is fabulous. You chose well.
Look forward to seeing you here~
Jan 12th, 2010, 01:10 PM
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With 5 days, I'd highly recommend that you visit Beng Melea. The drive there was fascinating - definitely a sobering look at life in rural Cambodia. This is an easy afternoon trip.
The temple is largely in ruins and very lightly touristed. During our visit, there were no more than five others present. It's a nice contrast to the more popular temples closer to Siem Reap.
The temple is largely in ruins and very lightly touristed. During our visit, there were no more than five others present. It's a nice contrast to the more popular temples closer to Siem Reap.
Jan 14th, 2010, 06:39 PM
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I appreciate everyone’s comments. As always, insightful and practical.
Among the various trip reports we have way, way too much information, but I have to say I’m really, really excited.
Last questions – Should we go to Ton Le Sap? If not Kompong Phhluk, other suggestions?
One friend advised us to give Roluos Group a miss, except perhaps Bakong. Opinions?
I think we'll arrange our driver through the hotel upon arrival. Do you foresee any problem with this?
Among the various trip reports we have way, way too much information, but I have to say I’m really, really excited.
Last questions – Should we go to Ton Le Sap? If not Kompong Phhluk, other suggestions?
One friend advised us to give Roluos Group a miss, except perhaps Bakong. Opinions?
I think we'll arrange our driver through the hotel upon arrival. Do you foresee any problem with this?
Jan 15th, 2010, 01:45 PM
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