Agra at Beginning or End of Trip?
Nov 23rd, 2010, 03:51 AM
#1
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Agra at Beginning or End of Trip?
As part of planning for six-week trip (about which I have posted separately and received good suggestions) trying to decide whether it makes more sense to visit Agra at the beginning of the trip, that is on the way from Delhi to Varanasi, or at the end as we wind up coming back to Delhi through Rajasthan. Either way, would expect to do one night in Agra so we can see sunset and then sunrise at Taj, and then move along next day. Thanks.
Nov 23rd, 2010, 04:05 AM
#3
I'd be inclined to do it at the beginning if the logistic work. Agra is the absolute worst place for hassles in India, and better to get it over with while you're still fresh. Then things will get better...
Nov 23rd, 2010, 04:27 AM
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2 good points. Was actually thinking it might be easier to deal with the Agra hassles at the end when we are a little more "comfortable" than at the beginning when still reeling from initial culture shock.
Nov 23rd, 2010, 03:21 PM
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Agra is closer to Delhi than Varanasi. You should ask yourself if you want to go to Agra while still fresh or after you're a "seasoned" India traveler. Best route to Agra from Delhi is by the Shabtabi Express train. Can't fly in or out.
Nov 23rd, 2010, 05:56 PM
#8
The hassles in Agra are a lot less than in Varanasi, and you'll only have to deal with the touts outside the entrance to the Taj Mahal. I'd go at the beginning while you are recovering from your flights. It is an easy city, as none of the sites involve much walking or stair climbing.
Do keep in mind that it closes on Fridays, so that may be a deciding factor.
I have to say that I actually like Agra. I find it a fascinating city, as long as you are away from the gates of the Taj.
Do keep in mind that it closes on Fridays, so that may be a deciding factor.
I have to say that I actually like Agra. I find it a fascinating city, as long as you are away from the gates of the Taj.
Nov 23rd, 2010, 11:21 PM
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Agree 100% with Lcuy about Agra.
I was expecting it to be awful, but loved it! The Fort, the Moonlight Garden Bagh across the Yamuna, the Taj,
Your experience of Agra will be better if you read a bit about Mughal history, esp'lly about Shah Jahan, his love for his wife, his children Jahanarah, Dara, evil Aurangzeb, etc
Search novels or web articles about the Taj Mahal and/or Mughal history.
IF you arrive VERY early to Raj Mahal,--among the first few in, in the morning, you can enjoy it while still a serene, uncrowded feeling. WHen the kis trying to sell things approached, as we strolled down the path to entrance, ...our guide said,trying to give us some perspective, "Well, at least they are working...not begging." Sooo true--and i never forgot that .
Besides, you can get great cheap souvenirs--magnets,photo books , etc. Everyone i brought those home for loved them-- lightweight and easy to pack.
I was expecting it to be awful, but loved it! The Fort, the Moonlight Garden Bagh across the Yamuna, the Taj,
Your experience of Agra will be better if you read a bit about Mughal history, esp'lly about Shah Jahan, his love for his wife, his children Jahanarah, Dara, evil Aurangzeb, etc
Search novels or web articles about the Taj Mahal and/or Mughal history.
IF you arrive VERY early to Raj Mahal,--among the first few in, in the morning, you can enjoy it while still a serene, uncrowded feeling. WHen the kis trying to sell things approached, as we strolled down the path to entrance, ...our guide said,trying to give us some perspective, "Well, at least they are working...not begging." Sooo true--and i never forgot that .
Besides, you can get great cheap souvenirs--magnets,photo books , etc. Everyone i brought those home for loved them-- lightweight and easy to pack.
Nov 23rd, 2010, 11:27 PM
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oh--to answer your question--i'd go at start of trip, all else wiht transport, etc, being equal. Taj Mahal is magical (again, get their EARLY when it is relatively calm) and gives that true, "Wow, i'm really HERE!" feeling. The first time i saw it, was toward end of long trip, and somehow, the thrill (perhaps because I'd seen so manyother amazing places) wasnt the same. But seeing it decades later, straightaway after landing in New Delhi...Ahhhhhh!
Nov 23rd, 2010, 11:38 PM
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Some things to consider:
1. As mentioned above, the Taj is closed on Fridays, so obviously whatever end of the trip you do Agra on, make sure you are not there on a Friday.
2. It could be quite convenient to do Agra last as you could then go from there right to the Delhi airport and take a flight home. If budget is not an issue, you may even be able to fly from Agra to Delhi and then connect on to your int’l flight. Kingfisher has a Noon departure which arrives into Delhi at 1 pm. (FYI, the new domestic and int’l terminals in Delhi are finished, and they are really excellent. You would think you were at Changi. No more having to take a bus or taxi between domestic and international terminals, you simply walk. There are numerous shops and restaurants and even lounge chairs, so spending a few hours at the airport is perfectly doable now. There may still be rules that only permit access to the airport 3 hours before a flight, so do bear that in mind.)
Otherwise, you could drive or train up to Delhi. Driving would be preferable as you can go right to the airport versus the train which takes you to central Delhi and then you have at least an hour to get out to the airport. However, the train can work well if you have a very late night departure from Delhi, as you can take a late afternoon or evening train, have dinner in Delhi (time permitting) and then go out to the airport.
If you drive, just watch your time, as you don’t want to do much of the drive in the dark. The last 45 minutes to an hour is OK as you will be in the suburbs of Delhi on highways, but I would not do much else in the dark. The drive takes about 4 hours, barring bad traffic. So you may have to leave at like 2-3 pm in order to be able to drive in light most of the way. That gives you less time in Agra.
3. It can also work to go to Agra before or after Varanasi, as there is the night train. You can fly Delhi to Varanasi, then train to Agra. Or do Delhi, Jaipur/Udaipur whatever in Rajasthan then go to Agra, then train to Varanasi then fly to Delhi (possibly to connect right on to your flight home). However, if you are not including Jaipur, then getting from Agra and other parts of Rajasthan can be difficult, as most other places in Rajasthan are quite a journey from Agra (it’s like a 12-hour drive to Udaipur, although there is an express night train which probably would work.)
4. The other thing to consider is whether and when you would be able to include Fatephur Sikri, which IMO is really worth a visit. It is often convenient to do that as a stop over on a drive between Agra and Jaipur. If you do Agra last, make sure you leave enough time on either day to get out to FS, which takes about an hour each way.
5. I agree with lcuy that Agra is a great town, once away from the touts at the entrance to the Taj itself. Most people don’t enjoy Agra because they only have 1 night or less in town and therefore only have the tout experience. But there are many areas where you can wander almost unnoticed. And of course the red fort and other sights worth seeing. I would not give it short shrift.
1. As mentioned above, the Taj is closed on Fridays, so obviously whatever end of the trip you do Agra on, make sure you are not there on a Friday.
2. It could be quite convenient to do Agra last as you could then go from there right to the Delhi airport and take a flight home. If budget is not an issue, you may even be able to fly from Agra to Delhi and then connect on to your int’l flight. Kingfisher has a Noon departure which arrives into Delhi at 1 pm. (FYI, the new domestic and int’l terminals in Delhi are finished, and they are really excellent. You would think you were at Changi. No more having to take a bus or taxi between domestic and international terminals, you simply walk. There are numerous shops and restaurants and even lounge chairs, so spending a few hours at the airport is perfectly doable now. There may still be rules that only permit access to the airport 3 hours before a flight, so do bear that in mind.)
Otherwise, you could drive or train up to Delhi. Driving would be preferable as you can go right to the airport versus the train which takes you to central Delhi and then you have at least an hour to get out to the airport. However, the train can work well if you have a very late night departure from Delhi, as you can take a late afternoon or evening train, have dinner in Delhi (time permitting) and then go out to the airport.
If you drive, just watch your time, as you don’t want to do much of the drive in the dark. The last 45 minutes to an hour is OK as you will be in the suburbs of Delhi on highways, but I would not do much else in the dark. The drive takes about 4 hours, barring bad traffic. So you may have to leave at like 2-3 pm in order to be able to drive in light most of the way. That gives you less time in Agra.
3. It can also work to go to Agra before or after Varanasi, as there is the night train. You can fly Delhi to Varanasi, then train to Agra. Or do Delhi, Jaipur/Udaipur whatever in Rajasthan then go to Agra, then train to Varanasi then fly to Delhi (possibly to connect right on to your flight home). However, if you are not including Jaipur, then getting from Agra and other parts of Rajasthan can be difficult, as most other places in Rajasthan are quite a journey from Agra (it’s like a 12-hour drive to Udaipur, although there is an express night train which probably would work.)
4. The other thing to consider is whether and when you would be able to include Fatephur Sikri, which IMO is really worth a visit. It is often convenient to do that as a stop over on a drive between Agra and Jaipur. If you do Agra last, make sure you leave enough time on either day to get out to FS, which takes about an hour each way.
5. I agree with lcuy that Agra is a great town, once away from the touts at the entrance to the Taj itself. Most people don’t enjoy Agra because they only have 1 night or less in town and therefore only have the tout experience. But there are many areas where you can wander almost unnoticed. And of course the red fort and other sights worth seeing. I would not give it short shrift.
Nov 24th, 2010, 03:03 PM
#14
Thursday- I stayed on the river down at Assi Ghat my first time in Varanasi, and up at Main Ghat the next time.
I lreally like both Agra and Varanasi, but I think Varanasi is a lot harder to "do" than Agra, especially for a first timer, or for the first few nights in India.
The streets are so narrow that in many areas a car is not practical. Getting around involves a lot of walking on hot, uneven lanes slippery with trash & animal droppings. You spend time going up and down steps, both at the ghats and in the river hotels, and it is a lot more challenging to deal with the crowds of people. I find the city exciting; but I know many find it overwhelming.
In Agra, if you arrive jet lagged or culture shocked, you can pretty much sit in a cool air conditioned car and get dropped off at the front entrance to many of the sights.
I lreally like both Agra and Varanasi, but I think Varanasi is a lot harder to "do" than Agra, especially for a first timer, or for the first few nights in India.
The streets are so narrow that in many areas a car is not practical. Getting around involves a lot of walking on hot, uneven lanes slippery with trash & animal droppings. You spend time going up and down steps, both at the ghats and in the river hotels, and it is a lot more challenging to deal with the crowds of people. I find the city exciting; but I know many find it overwhelming.
In Agra, if you arrive jet lagged or culture shocked, you can pretty much sit in a cool air conditioned car and get dropped off at the front entrance to many of the sights.
Nov 24th, 2010, 04:42 PM
#15
Ah, lcuy, maybe the cool, AC car is the difference. I did Agra on foot and by rickshaw. Far more touts on the streets of Agra - can't step out of the hotel without a horde of rickshaw drivers showing up - than in the lanes of Varanasi.
Nov 24th, 2010, 11:24 PM
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Since this is your first visit to India, my suggestion is to see Taj Mahal at the start of your trip. This way if there are any complications (which I don't expect, but this is a precaution only), you will not feel rushed at the end of your trip. And it will put you in a good frame of mind to start your visit.
Give yourself plenty of time to see and enjoy the history and beauty of Taj Mahal. It is one of a kind.
Whichever you choose, I am sure you'll enjoy your visit to India.
Give yourself plenty of time to see and enjoy the history and beauty of Taj Mahal. It is one of a kind.
Whichever you choose, I am sure you'll enjoy your visit to India.
Nov 25th, 2010, 10:53 AM
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Another vote for beginning of the trip! I have to say I 100% agree w/ lcuy on both posts. It's on the way, and considering you're starting in Delhi, Agra is definitely one of the calmest tourist cities.
Dec 2nd, 2010, 01:44 PM
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Thanks to all for the thoughtful responses and good dialog. Upon reflection, we've decided to save Agra for the end of the six-week trip, making it the final stop after a still-to-be-figured out Rajasthan swing before heading back to Delhi for flight home. First stop will now be Varanasi (have booked overnight train via Cleartrip - so easy... and a little different than arranging travel on my last trip to India 15 years ago!) Anyway, now planning for 3 nights in Varanasi before moving on to Kolkata. I gather from various postings that it would be best to stay in the old section near the river, is that right? Will be scouring forum for suggestions on hotels, restaurants, sights etc for Varanasi but would certainly welcome any general thoughts on how to best experience the place. Is a guide a good idea? Are boats easy to figure out? Is Sarnath worth a day trip? Also, thinking ahead, would another overnight train be best from Varanasi to Kolkata or is there any value in breaking up the trip somewhere so we can have some daylight train time? Thanks again to all as we (two recently retired pals) put this long-awaited trip together stage-by-stage.
