A tale of two Japans: a trip report
Apr 21st, 2013, 07:33 PM
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A tale of two Japans: a trip report
Greetings all
We are back, and I am jotting down a few things quickly while my mind is still fresh.
First off: thanks to the many Japanophiles here on Fodors who infected us with their enthusiasm: hawaiiantraveller, kimjapan, DonTopaz, mrwunrfl, and others.
Air itinerary: Flew to LAX as a gateway.
Flew to ITM via HND (Tokyo Haneda) and took bus from ITM to Kyoto.
Returned from Tokyo Haneda on the overnight flight to LAX, and went home after 2 overnights in LA.
Some remarks on air travel:
*I am afraid that we suffered badly from jet lag this trip. On the one hand, by flying first to LAX and overnighting, we were able to pick up ANA's overnight flight the following evening to Tokyo Haneda, which allowed us to use the following morning to commute by air to Osaka (Itami) and thence by bus to Kyoto. However, in hindsight, I wonder if taking the daytime flight to NRT (Tokyo Narita) and overnighting there before proceeding to Kyoto might have been better. As it was, we wound up being up for almost 48 hours from the time we woke up in LA to the time we hit the sheets in our Kyoto hotel, save what we snatched in the way of naps on the overnight flight. I'd hoped that this would help us adjust quickly to adjusting to a 12 time zone switch, by virtue of being so tired we'd fall asleep no matter what our first night, but the price paid in net loss of sleep was high. We enjoyed Kyoto, but our progress was slow as we were still recuperating, and I think an extra day just to offset this jet lag effect would have been a wise idea. Heck, an extra day in Kyoto is I suspect always a good idea. But more on that later.
**On the other hand, the return from Japan worked very well, as we got in a last full day in Tokyo instead of being obliged to head for the airport in the early afternoon. We also loved Haneda International, the facilities are spanking new and it's easy to spend time there. Once back in LA, we had no trouble falling asleep, although getting up the next morning was a bit tough - but it did help to force us back to North American time.
*** We loved ANA (All Nippon Airways). Very professional and courteous staff.
Ground travel:
We got very efficient use of our 7 day JR Pass between Kyoto and Tokyo.
We also were very glad for the small compass key chain I brought along, for those places, such as the interior of large rail stations, where GPS won't work. I kid you not, I think we'd still be in Shinjuku station if we hadn't consulted the compass!
We are back, and I am jotting down a few things quickly while my mind is still fresh.
First off: thanks to the many Japanophiles here on Fodors who infected us with their enthusiasm: hawaiiantraveller, kimjapan, DonTopaz, mrwunrfl, and others.
Air itinerary: Flew to LAX as a gateway.
Flew to ITM via HND (Tokyo Haneda) and took bus from ITM to Kyoto.
Returned from Tokyo Haneda on the overnight flight to LAX, and went home after 2 overnights in LA.
Some remarks on air travel:
*I am afraid that we suffered badly from jet lag this trip. On the one hand, by flying first to LAX and overnighting, we were able to pick up ANA's overnight flight the following evening to Tokyo Haneda, which allowed us to use the following morning to commute by air to Osaka (Itami) and thence by bus to Kyoto. However, in hindsight, I wonder if taking the daytime flight to NRT (Tokyo Narita) and overnighting there before proceeding to Kyoto might have been better. As it was, we wound up being up for almost 48 hours from the time we woke up in LA to the time we hit the sheets in our Kyoto hotel, save what we snatched in the way of naps on the overnight flight. I'd hoped that this would help us adjust quickly to adjusting to a 12 time zone switch, by virtue of being so tired we'd fall asleep no matter what our first night, but the price paid in net loss of sleep was high. We enjoyed Kyoto, but our progress was slow as we were still recuperating, and I think an extra day just to offset this jet lag effect would have been a wise idea. Heck, an extra day in Kyoto is I suspect always a good idea. But more on that later.
**On the other hand, the return from Japan worked very well, as we got in a last full day in Tokyo instead of being obliged to head for the airport in the early afternoon. We also loved Haneda International, the facilities are spanking new and it's easy to spend time there. Once back in LA, we had no trouble falling asleep, although getting up the next morning was a bit tough - but it did help to force us back to North American time.
*** We loved ANA (All Nippon Airways). Very professional and courteous staff.
Ground travel:
We got very efficient use of our 7 day JR Pass between Kyoto and Tokyo.
We also were very glad for the small compass key chain I brought along, for those places, such as the interior of large rail stations, where GPS won't work. I kid you not, I think we'd still be in Shinjuku station if we hadn't consulted the compass!
Apr 22nd, 2013, 05:44 AM
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Yo, but it was hard to pull myself out of bed this morning. But the sun is bright today, so that should help me in my mission to re-acclimatize to my local time zone.
Okay, where was I.
2 Apr, day 1. And we're off.
For some reason, on both legs of our journey to LA, United rushes us aboard and announces with pride that they are 'closing the doors for an on-time departure', only to have us sit for up to an hour on the tarmac before we even push back.
I wish I'd thought of this one for all those times I was late to elementary school. I should have walked into the classroom with my coat, boots and mitts still on, slush dripping onto to the floor, books still in the bag, and homework as yet undone, and announced to Miss H that notwithstanding her suspicions to the contrary, I was assuming my seat for an "ontime start to the day".
But of course Miss H, unlike this cowed air traveler, would have called my ruse in an instant. Dear Miss H, who predated regular air travel, and who would have been startled to hear that ordinary people took trips to countries literally the other side of the planet. And what would she have made of my eschewing reading as a means of passing the time on long journeys, in favour of watching a movie on a seatback screen or, if the plane be 'old', a movie on a notepad computer brought from home? "In Grade 5, Miss Sue, we grow up."
Sorry Miss H, I have no room in this economy seat to do any growing. But regular 'in-the-seat' leg exercises are still (just) possible, and I credit these with my escaping leg swelling on my flights this trip, despite my history with a (not air-travel-related) DVT.
In any case, Grade 5 for this writer was, alas, a long time ago. In any case, here we are, at last, in LA. A bed looks very good right now. ZZZZZZZ.
Okay, where was I.
2 Apr, day 1. And we're off.
For some reason, on both legs of our journey to LA, United rushes us aboard and announces with pride that they are 'closing the doors for an on-time departure', only to have us sit for up to an hour on the tarmac before we even push back.
I wish I'd thought of this one for all those times I was late to elementary school. I should have walked into the classroom with my coat, boots and mitts still on, slush dripping onto to the floor, books still in the bag, and homework as yet undone, and announced to Miss H that notwithstanding her suspicions to the contrary, I was assuming my seat for an "ontime start to the day".
But of course Miss H, unlike this cowed air traveler, would have called my ruse in an instant. Dear Miss H, who predated regular air travel, and who would have been startled to hear that ordinary people took trips to countries literally the other side of the planet. And what would she have made of my eschewing reading as a means of passing the time on long journeys, in favour of watching a movie on a seatback screen or, if the plane be 'old', a movie on a notepad computer brought from home? "In Grade 5, Miss Sue, we grow up."
Sorry Miss H, I have no room in this economy seat to do any growing. But regular 'in-the-seat' leg exercises are still (just) possible, and I credit these with my escaping leg swelling on my flights this trip, despite my history with a (not air-travel-related) DVT.
In any case, Grade 5 for this writer was, alas, a long time ago. In any case, here we are, at last, in LA. A bed looks very good right now. ZZZZZZZ.
Apr 22nd, 2013, 05:58 AM
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3 Apr, day 2. LA.
A sunny day in the city of angels. We have plans to drop in on the observatory at Griffith Park, but since it doesn't open until noon on weekdays, we pass the time by driving our little rented car first to Marina del Rey (because we both loved the song) and then to the neighbourhood (not the beach) of Venice. I really liked Venice, this is a place I could actually imagine myself living in, were I ever to relocate to LA. Please don't spoil my fantasy by telling me how much these little houses cost.
Owing to minor jet leg we rule out getting tickets to any of the planetarium shows at the Griffith, but no matter as the view alone from the site justifies the trip. As it is the 'ordinary' exhibits are quite entertaining, including the live demonstration put on when the sun reaches its zenith. Watching the demo, I wonder if this is where the screenwriters of the 'Raiders of the Lost Ark' films got their inspiration for a certain scene.
Our visit concluded, we make our way back to the environs of our airport hotel and quickly take in a little of nearby Manhattan beach, before turning in the car and settling in for the tedious wait until it is time to head for the airport and our very late (as in 00:40) flight to Tokyo. I'm tired, and so is spouse. But as we know from previous experience, the only way out of jet lag is through it. Our consolation: Japan awaits.
A sunny day in the city of angels. We have plans to drop in on the observatory at Griffith Park, but since it doesn't open until noon on weekdays, we pass the time by driving our little rented car first to Marina del Rey (because we both loved the song) and then to the neighbourhood (not the beach) of Venice. I really liked Venice, this is a place I could actually imagine myself living in, were I ever to relocate to LA. Please don't spoil my fantasy by telling me how much these little houses cost.
Owing to minor jet leg we rule out getting tickets to any of the planetarium shows at the Griffith, but no matter as the view alone from the site justifies the trip. As it is the 'ordinary' exhibits are quite entertaining, including the live demonstration put on when the sun reaches its zenith. Watching the demo, I wonder if this is where the screenwriters of the 'Raiders of the Lost Ark' films got their inspiration for a certain scene.
Our visit concluded, we make our way back to the environs of our airport hotel and quickly take in a little of nearby Manhattan beach, before turning in the car and settling in for the tedious wait until it is time to head for the airport and our very late (as in 00:40) flight to Tokyo. I'm tired, and so is spouse. But as we know from previous experience, the only way out of jet lag is through it. Our consolation: Japan awaits.
Apr 22nd, 2013, 06:31 AM
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4 Apr. in flight, crossing the date line.
5 Apr. day 3. Tokyo, and onward to Osaka and Kyoto.
I should warn all(if you haven't figured it out for yourselves already) that this report will be as one once described by Winston Churchill to his superior at the time: dear sir, I am sorry my report is so long, but I didn't have time to write a shorter one. His point, and mine, being that concision is what takes effort.
*****
Even the super courteous ANA flight attendants cannot alleviate the fact that the flight is long and the seats are small. But all tedious things come to an end, and what is more we are greeted, as our plane rolls up to the gate in Haneda, by the sight of the ground crew bowing to the plane. That's a first!
We have arrived early, so early that I wish I'd tried to see if we could have been moved up to an earlier flight to ITM. On that flight spouse and I are not seated together, but each of us gets a window seat on either side of the plane. Spouse lucks out and gets treated to a spectacularly clear view of Mount Fuji on his side; I have to settle for a great view of Osaka castle.
Once off the plane, we barely have time to scratch our heads in wonderment at the machines that dispense bus tickets, before a helpful person materializes out of nowhere to speed the experience for us. As we are later to find, this helpfulness is common in Japan.
Onboard the bus, we are startled to see an extra ten people climb aboard, pull down folding seats, and sit in the aisle of the bus.
As we roll past Osaka, I am elated to see the sight of cherry blossoms. So, we are not too late after all!
Kyoto station is as I expected - large and confusing. I know that there are several JR offices and that only one will do the job I have in mind: exchange our vouchers for JR passes and make the reservations. As luck has it, it takes three tries before we find the right one. But the job is done, Hallelujah.
I was very glad to have taken the time to research what we wanted on hyperdia dot com, and then make up a chart for the agent listing what we wanted. No doubt the people in line behind us were similarly grateful.
What little Japanese I managed to learn before departure has evaporated in a haze of jet lag and disorientation. All I can remember is "Konnichiwa" and "Arigato" which I suppose is better than nothing. As for the written script, we adopt a generic term 'squiggle' for Hirigana and Kanji. For the rest of the trip, it becomes our stock phrase: "what does the sign say?" "Can't tell, it's all in squiggle."
I wish I knew squiggle, it is one of many deficiencies in my education. Now I know what it feels like to be illiterate, and it is not a comfortable feeling.
As it is, even when English is available, it is not always as clarifying as hoped. For example, it takes us a few minutes to realize that the two fare ranges displayed on the chart above the subway ticket machines are for 'adult' and 'child'. Once we get that through our thick skulls, it becomes a matter of learning to insert the 1000 yen note into the machine, pushing the 'ticket' button, then the button with the graphic of two people, and then the button with the correct fare for one person to the stop (this is where the chart comes in) - the machine then makes change and coughs out two tickets.
Our hotel in Kyoto is actually a small apartment, and we love it. The kitchenette is mouse sized but will serve to heat up food and prepare tea or coffee. There is a washer/dryer, a small table and chairs, and two comfy beds. What more could we need?
After settling in, we head to a 'kombini' for some supplies, and then stroll the nearby canal section, which is lined with lovely cherry trees. As evening draws on, Maruyama park heats up with 'hanami' partygoers. We buy a couple of squewers of meat from two of the many vendors selling food. We'd love to stay on and enjoy the fun, but we are by now pooped. Just. Pooped.
5 Apr. day 3. Tokyo, and onward to Osaka and Kyoto.
I should warn all(if you haven't figured it out for yourselves already) that this report will be as one once described by Winston Churchill to his superior at the time: dear sir, I am sorry my report is so long, but I didn't have time to write a shorter one. His point, and mine, being that concision is what takes effort.
*****
Even the super courteous ANA flight attendants cannot alleviate the fact that the flight is long and the seats are small. But all tedious things come to an end, and what is more we are greeted, as our plane rolls up to the gate in Haneda, by the sight of the ground crew bowing to the plane. That's a first!
We have arrived early, so early that I wish I'd tried to see if we could have been moved up to an earlier flight to ITM. On that flight spouse and I are not seated together, but each of us gets a window seat on either side of the plane. Spouse lucks out and gets treated to a spectacularly clear view of Mount Fuji on his side; I have to settle for a great view of Osaka castle.
Once off the plane, we barely have time to scratch our heads in wonderment at the machines that dispense bus tickets, before a helpful person materializes out of nowhere to speed the experience for us. As we are later to find, this helpfulness is common in Japan.
Onboard the bus, we are startled to see an extra ten people climb aboard, pull down folding seats, and sit in the aisle of the bus.
As we roll past Osaka, I am elated to see the sight of cherry blossoms. So, we are not too late after all!
Kyoto station is as I expected - large and confusing. I know that there are several JR offices and that only one will do the job I have in mind: exchange our vouchers for JR passes and make the reservations. As luck has it, it takes three tries before we find the right one. But the job is done, Hallelujah.
I was very glad to have taken the time to research what we wanted on hyperdia dot com, and then make up a chart for the agent listing what we wanted. No doubt the people in line behind us were similarly grateful.
What little Japanese I managed to learn before departure has evaporated in a haze of jet lag and disorientation. All I can remember is "Konnichiwa" and "Arigato" which I suppose is better than nothing. As for the written script, we adopt a generic term 'squiggle' for Hirigana and Kanji. For the rest of the trip, it becomes our stock phrase: "what does the sign say?" "Can't tell, it's all in squiggle."
I wish I knew squiggle, it is one of many deficiencies in my education. Now I know what it feels like to be illiterate, and it is not a comfortable feeling.
As it is, even when English is available, it is not always as clarifying as hoped. For example, it takes us a few minutes to realize that the two fare ranges displayed on the chart above the subway ticket machines are for 'adult' and 'child'. Once we get that through our thick skulls, it becomes a matter of learning to insert the 1000 yen note into the machine, pushing the 'ticket' button, then the button with the graphic of two people, and then the button with the correct fare for one person to the stop (this is where the chart comes in) - the machine then makes change and coughs out two tickets.
Our hotel in Kyoto is actually a small apartment, and we love it. The kitchenette is mouse sized but will serve to heat up food and prepare tea or coffee. There is a washer/dryer, a small table and chairs, and two comfy beds. What more could we need?
After settling in, we head to a 'kombini' for some supplies, and then stroll the nearby canal section, which is lined with lovely cherry trees. As evening draws on, Maruyama park heats up with 'hanami' partygoers. We buy a couple of squewers of meat from two of the many vendors selling food. We'd love to stay on and enjoy the fun, but we are by now pooped. Just. Pooped.
Apr 22nd, 2013, 10:36 AM
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Hello gertie - Osaka's ITM (Itami) airport is closer to Kyoto than KIX - is why I chose it. ITM also closer by air to either of Tokyo's airports than KIX.
Unless you are asking why I didn't fly direct to KIX from North America. Long story, but schedules/routes etc weren't convenient for us from the few cities in NA that have direct flights to KIX.
Hello to Kathie, Kavey, and Hawaiian - glad you are enjoying it. I shall add as I find a moment in between getting back to, alas, 'real life.'
Unless you are asking why I didn't fly direct to KIX from North America. Long story, but schedules/routes etc weren't convenient for us from the few cities in NA that have direct flights to KIX.
Hello to Kathie, Kavey, and Hawaiian - glad you are enjoying it. I shall add as I find a moment in between getting back to, alas, 'real life.'
Apr 22nd, 2013, 11:03 AM
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Yes, I wondered why you didn't fly direct into KIX from North America. We usually use United from SFO ( having started out at IAH). That trip is horrible under any circumstances and United is dreadful. I might think about using ANA/JAL/any other airline next time, but we head straight for Kobe without any need to go to Tokyo.
Apr 22nd, 2013, 11:41 AM
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Seems like you enjoyed the trip -- glad to hear it!
I was wondering where you started from -- going through LAX adds a lot of extra miles from most places in the U.S. And the point about adjusting to the time/jet lag should not be lost. I've made the trip from Boston to east or southeast Asia 20 times or more, and it's never easy.
Interesting idea to bring along a compass. Though others should be warned not to use a Tate's Compass: he who has a Tate's is lost.
I was wondering where you started from -- going through LAX adds a lot of extra miles from most places in the U.S. And the point about adjusting to the time/jet lag should not be lost. I've made the trip from Boston to east or southeast Asia 20 times or more, and it's never easy.
Interesting idea to bring along a compass. Though others should be warned not to use a Tate's Compass: he who has a Tate's is lost.
Apr 22nd, 2013, 12:26 PM
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Yes Craig your iphone5 compass will work in Shinjuku and other stations and throughout Japan. I always use mine as I have mentioned before in trip reports. Generally a phone compass that will work in airplane mode will work without additional coverage.
Aloha!
Aloha!
Apr 22nd, 2013, 02:10 PM
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DonTopaz
it is a relief to hear that even experienced Japanophiles don't find the trip to the East coast easy. The funny thing is, we've made the trek to New Zealand and thence Australia, and didn't find it so bad. But Japan is three more time zones further away from our local time than New Zealand, and those last three zones were for us, deadly.
Yes, it's true that the shortest route would preclude LAX from most places on the east coast of NA. But I was trying to optimize other things besides overall distance. There was, for example, the time of day of one's starting flight, and the time of arrival. I didn't want to have to start out too early - we'd be losing sleep as it was. There was cost - and as Fodorites know, airfares don't always follow geographic logic. And I was trying to start our trip in Kyoto, correctly figuring that Kyoto would be less hectic than Tokyo. Each of these constraints added to the benefits of thinking out of the box.
So I figured what the heck, make the journey part of the fun. Pick somewhere on the west coast that we'd like to visit, one that is a major gateway, one for which a reasonable airfare could be found, and start the Pacific leg from there. I appreciate this approach might not work for everyone, since of course airfare markets are extremely variable, and one must of course add in the cost of hotels at the stopover point. But short of flying first class (not in our budget) or on a private jet with beds (Mr. Obama, can I borrow AirForce One?), it was the best compromise I could manage. All suggestions for the future gratefully considered.
Perhaps we Fodorites should pool our resources and buy our own jet?
it is a relief to hear that even experienced Japanophiles don't find the trip to the East coast easy. The funny thing is, we've made the trek to New Zealand and thence Australia, and didn't find it so bad. But Japan is three more time zones further away from our local time than New Zealand, and those last three zones were for us, deadly.
Yes, it's true that the shortest route would preclude LAX from most places on the east coast of NA. But I was trying to optimize other things besides overall distance. There was, for example, the time of day of one's starting flight, and the time of arrival. I didn't want to have to start out too early - we'd be losing sleep as it was. There was cost - and as Fodorites know, airfares don't always follow geographic logic. And I was trying to start our trip in Kyoto, correctly figuring that Kyoto would be less hectic than Tokyo. Each of these constraints added to the benefits of thinking out of the box.
So I figured what the heck, make the journey part of the fun. Pick somewhere on the west coast that we'd like to visit, one that is a major gateway, one for which a reasonable airfare could be found, and start the Pacific leg from there. I appreciate this approach might not work for everyone, since of course airfare markets are extremely variable, and one must of course add in the cost of hotels at the stopover point. But short of flying first class (not in our budget) or on a private jet with beds (Mr. Obama, can I borrow AirForce One?), it was the best compromise I could manage. All suggestions for the future gratefully considered.
Perhaps we Fodorites should pool our resources and buy our own jet?
