Don't forget to send away for your Visa!

You don't really need a guide in varanasi. it's quite small, and pretty self explanatory with a guide book. You'll want to go out early in the morning (before the sun rises) and rent a boat to take you up or down the Ganges. Be clear on how long your price includes (one hour is usually enough) or which ghat you want to travel to. You can do a one way, then walk back along the ghats or go round trip. I negotiate directly with the person who'll be rowing the boat, as I want to see the condition of the boat before I commit. It's nice if the guy speaks a little English too.

To see the other local sights, you can rent a cycle rickshaw or an auto rickshaw to take you around. The only time you'll need a taxi is if you are going to Sarnath; You might want to take a day tour there.

Be advised that the hotels on the river are all pretty basic, but it is worth sucking it up for the location. Temple on the Ganges and Palace on the Ganges are in a nice location at Assi Ghat, Palace on the River is up above Main Ghat.

I tend to agree with lcuy about not needing a guide. However, if this is your first trip to India and your first destination there, you might want to have a handler to show you around. Unfortunately, in India guides are both a blessing and a curse. You'll see what I mean if you hire one as I did in Varanasi. That said, you can usually arrange a reliable guide through your hotel and that is what I would recommend. Good luck and have a great time in India!

I couldn't help but say this, Varanasi and Kick-ass doesn't go together in the same sentence

i might have choosen other words too, but...

i stayed at temple on the ganges... it was fine, well located, but quite basic..

the palace is next door and i think it is nicer..

you can get a rower at assi ghat and see it all. then walk in some of the lanes from near the main ghats..

we felt this was all you needed to see...

temple has a nice rooftop restaurant/lounge which we enjoyed...

the place along the river are filthy... its trully unique india

Don't be too much of a sucker for all the "spiritual" stuff in India. The "holy" men can spot a tourist a mile away and they know what kind of show to put on to leave you mesmerized, and maybe lighter in your wallet for all of their holy advice.

some of my best friends dress up in varanasi