Elizabeth_S

Following is the current outline for our trip in January 2009 (assumes all private guides/drivers) with questions inserted into it - any help is appreciated

Days 1-3 Arrive Arusha (via AMS) - 3 nights at Kigongoni Lodge. Perhaps one night more than we would have booked but we're flying in on points and are dovetailing with flights to Rwanda. In any event we arrive very late the first night so it's really only two nights.

Touring options on Days 2 and 3 - half day cultural tour and next day game drive and bush wask at Arusha National Park.

Question - I've looked at many of the Arusha lodges and am happy with Kigongoni - also considered Coffee Lodge - any strongly held opinions either way?

Day 4 & 5 - transfer to Kigali and to VNP - overnight at Kinigi Guest House - next day Gorilla Trek

Day 6 - return to and overnight in Kigali - Iris Guest House (day tour in Kigali)

Question - we were originally booked at the Mountain Gorilla's Nest but after recent negative reviews decided we like the idea of Kinigi Guest House (similarly with Iris Guest House in Kigali versus Novatel, etc) - any comments?

Days 7 & 8 - Return to JRO and transfer to Tarangire
- stay at Tarangire Safari Lodge

Question - Any recent experiences at this lodge?

Day 9 - to Manyara for game drive then stay at Plantation Lodge that night

Question - I have gone round and round on whether we should keep Manyara in the itinerary - some trip reports I've read dismiss it entirely; others are very happy to have gone. The one reason for me to keep it is we do like to see birds (I can't call us bird watchers but when we're in other environments we really do like birds) Originally the agent suggested Kirurumu but the reviews are iffy so now I'm looking at Plantation Lodge. Any and all comments about this night are really appreciated

Days 10 & 11 - Ngorongoro Crater. This stop is a HUGE highlight for my husband - and me too - but he has been dreaming about it since he saw a Nat Geo when he was 8 - I wonder what else was in that issue

Question here is where to stay - current plan is Sopa but same story with recent iffy reviews. It would seem the renovated rooms are much better, but in order to get one it is suggested you arrive early. I'm not planning to travel all the way to Tanzania to see wonderful wildlife and worry about getting to a hotel in time. But the lure of the Sopa is two-fold - the crater view and the easy road access. Crater Lodge isn't an option (don't see the value) and Serena doesn't have the easy access (right?). Also considering the Lemala Camp which apparently shares the Sopa access road......but not view of the crater. (price is high, though).

Good grief - where is the question there? Do you actually get to enjoy the view - I presume in January the light will be there at the end of the touring day or does the crater have a lot of fog? Is the easy access road as important as I think?

Days 12 - 15 - 4 nights in Serengeti - hoping for Ndutu Lodge but we're waitlisted right now. Considering Lemala here (if not the Crater) - this part is still forming up - any suggestions welcome

Day 16 - transfer for Zanzibar - 1 night at Stonetown/Tembo

Question - still considering Zanzibar re high humidity but very interested in seeing it

Days 17-19 - 3 nights at Ras Nungwi - we're divers and although this is the part where we relax we'll probably be tempted to dive - if not, snorkel. Not married to this hotel - read a couple of negative reviews and probably need to do more research here. Also it's very expensive and assume this is a place we could save a bit of money - yes?

Day 20 - depart Zanzibar for .............................. well, that part is still a work in progress. We have 2 more weeks in Africa - sort of assuming we'll go to Capetown and rent a villa for a week in Simons Town (or similar) and drive the Garden Route but considering other options too.

Price for above:

- Tanzania safari portion - $4,770 per person
- Rwanda portion - $1800 per person
- Zanzibar portion - $975 per person

Total $7,545 per person

Most meals are included (ex Rwanda) and all guiding, NP fees, air/transfers etc.

I know this is a common itinerary to post here - I've read just about every trip report and hope that experienced travelers can help with comments!

Thanks!

Elizabeth_S

First a typo alert - it's not a bush wask we're going on, it's a bush walk!

Forgot one other broad question. My husband has a dodgy back and we're a little concerned about the road transfers. Part of our reason for a private tour is to ensure a good vehicle and make allowances if he needs to stop. (actually, truth be told, it's our excuse). I've been advised that the road transfer times for the above itinerary (Tanzania portion) are:

Transfers:

Arusha to Tarangire: 2.5 hours
Tarangire to Manyara: 45 minutes
Manyara to Ngorongoro: 45 minutes
Ngorongoro gate to Serengeti gate: ~3 hours
Ngorongoro gate to Southern Serengeti (Ndutu): ~2.5 hours

I've advised the agent of my husband's back problems and she doesn't recommend short flights for any of the above legs of the journey - any comments about that?

Thanks again

jules39

You may have already checked into this or you may have already booked your flights but when we went to Rwanda & Tanz in Feb 07 our overall flight costs were less going into JRO do safari then JRO - Kigali Then Kigali to Nairobi to pick up KLM back to AMS. Also saved travel time not going back & forth to Arusha. How many gorilla treks are you planning? Do try & do 2 if possible.
J

Elizabeth_S

jules39 - thanks for your comments - we have booked our flights on points into JRO and then will fly from DAR to probably Capetown................as we have two weeks after this itinerary.

Right now we have one gorilla trek booked (one day) - looked at another one but it was $$$$$$$$ - should we reconsider?

jules39

I totally agree with you Elizabeth that the cost of the treks is now even more $$$$ but..........it is an amazing experience and you are going a long way so if there is any way you can squeeze out another trek do it! I remember "justifying" it by staying at Gorilla Nest which was significantly cheaper than the other lodge that was available at that time. I would rather spend the money on the trek than accom but that is us.

J

thit_cho

I visited Ngorongoro Crater on my first safari, in August 1999, and I'm pretty sure I stayed at the Sopa (I was at that time, and still am, much less concerned about my lodging than others -- clean, comfortable, private bathroom and I'm set), and I really liked it. I did have a view from my room, but I'm sure I spent less than 10 seconds looking out my window. I spent all of the daylight hours in the Crater or in public areas (reading by the pool, etc.). So, I wouldn't be particularly concerned about the room they assign to you. I do recall though that they were very nice -- I had come down with some bug and they arranged for a local doctor who gave me something that cured me quickly.

I also stayed at Mountain Gorilla Nest, but that was in August 2003, and as I've written I may have lower expectations, but to me, it was fine (it may have been a bit cold, but I have slept in a tent in the Kgalagadi in July when it got below freezing at night, so cold is par for the course in some parts of Africa during the Winter).

Anyway, sounds like a great trip.

sandi

Can I assume you're flying JRO/KGL/JRO on Coastal and that cost $1300 is included in the Tanzania price? If so, then your price is good for peak-season.

A stay at Arusha Coffee Lodge is a big upgrade $$$, over Kigongoni.

Tarangire Safari Lodge is actually a camp. Lots of people love this camp, especially for the view. However, I personally find the tents small and right on top of one another... very close. But you've got the view and the price is good.

At Manyara, many like Kirurumu and it's a lovely camp. But, if staying in the area only 1/nt, and considering road travel, you might be better at end of day to conclude in Karatu with stay at Plantation. This will also have you closer to the crater for next day's drive.

Ngorongoro - go with Sopa. With luck you might get a refurbished room; otherwise the rooms are large and they have a pool which none of the other properties here have. Lemala Camp will be very expensive in comparison.

Once in the Serengeti, Lemala again with be expensive, but there are other camps in the area and though none are inexpensive, consider: Olakira, Sayari South, Savannah... or a bit west in this part of the Serengeti is Kusini Camp.

Hope this helps.

Denbasking

Elizabeth_S:

I would eat peanut butter & jelly sandwiches for weeks, have not one fancy dinner in any lodge, which is easily done at 500 bucks -- nothing compares to this experience. The closest, IMHO, is giving birth! Really! Next time, I will forgo much and I will do a week of treks with the mountain gorillas even if it is at 1000 USD a visit. It really is a priceless experience that I wish I had done more than once. Based upon my visit, the runny noses amongst the humans I saw and nothing done about it [a complicated state of politico affairs]…I‘ve no confidence these lovely Mountain Gorilla’s will be there for my Great Grandchildren to see and experience.

cougfan

Elizabeth,

Last Sept. we stayed at the Tarangire Safari Lodge, Kirurumu Tented Lodge and the Sopa at Ngorogoro.

We stayed two nights at the Safari Lodge and my husband still talks about the views from our tent. Yes the tents are small, close together and most only have two twin beds but we felt the views made up for it.

We only stayed one night at Kirurumu. We drove there from Tarangire, ate lunch, went on a afternoon game drive at Lake Manyara, came back, ate dinner, went to bed, ate breakfast and than left. The tents were nice and they are apart from each other. We walked by some on the side of the hill which would have great views of the valley and Lake Manyara.

Again we only stayed one night at the Sopa at the Crater. We did an afternoon game drive through the Crater, so got to the Sopa just before dinner. It was foggy so we couldn't see down into the Crater. Our room was on the bottom, but our friends next door saw a Buffalo walk past their windows. The rooms were huge compared to the other places we stayed. The only problem we had was the loss of water pressure when we were taking showers to get cleaned up for dinner. After about 1/2 hour the water came back.

I hope this helps, it isn't exactly very recent.

Julie

Elizabeth_S

Thanks to everyone for your help - to answer some questions raised

- the JRO-KGL-JRO airfare is not included anywhere (forgot to mention it) - it's being quoted as $299 per person?

Interesting opinions about the Safari Lodge - I knew it was a great view but not that the tents are close - we're only there 2 nights so I think I'll stick with the view.

Feel much better about Sopa now - that access road seems like a big advantage to me.

Better sharpen my pencil to add that second gorilla trek!

Patty

<i>- the JRO-KGL-JRO airfare is not included anywhere (forgot to mention it) - it's being quoted as $299 per person?</i>

That's the lowest Rwandair Express fare (Q class) not including taxes/fees.

Elizabeth_S

Patty - since that's the rate that's be quoted to us do we have a reasonable expectation of getting it - do you know?

sandi

Nothing is firm till you advise the outfitter that you wish to book.

With few exceptions, the price they initially quote is what you pay. However, there are times when prices may increase, whether for air (example: fuel surcharges) or other statutory increases.

Or if they have to replace one accommodation over another as the first one isn't available. The outfitter should provide supplements or reductions so you know before they arbitrarily book space.

Patty

I think so unless there's a fare increase. Q looks to be readily available. I don't know what taxes/fees are on top of the base fare though. The flight only operates on Mo/We/Fr though so in case you need to travel another date via NBO, the fare would be higher.

Denbasking

Tarangire Safari Lodge: http://www.tarangiresafarilodge.com/

Here is my review!

I actually stayed here in June 2006 and do not think I have ever written about it on Fodor’s before. I enjoyed myself and I have had different friends stay there three times since my visit and all enjoyed their stay as well. I do not think anything has changed and their website depicts the facilities accurately except the food may look a tad better than it tasted but there were plenty of choices that one will find something they like. Not fancy but clean, hot showers, western cuisine options and western toilets. Not expensive. Priceless views in TANZANIA!

A little context from my perspective: My normal preference is for total isolation and privacy in nature but at this point in my trip I was with a large group of local Tanzanians who had never been in a lodge or on safari before and we were all over the place at this lodge and I was not expecting privacy. We had folks in the tent section and the Bungalows; which were humble n’ nice (looks just like the online PICS) with lovely views here too and incredible Baobab trees! I was in the tent section and was in the first tent so it got all the traffic from staff and the other tent guests but since I knew everyone I never gave it a second thought. If you are after a little more privacy the Bungalows would be better or just not the first tent (tent #1 I assume – the one nearest the dining room) but there was something fun about the tent area, all the porches, and of course the VIEW! I really don’t think the closeness of the tents would have bothered me even if I did not know anyone. One really is not in the tent often and there are plenty of places to spread out and enjoy some quiet. They could be further apart but not a big deal for a short stay in an inexpensive public *hotel* in Tarangire National Park.

Since we were a large group we had a section of the dining area reserved for us our entire stay and had the same server tend to our needs above the buffet service each meal. She was awesome. The bar and lounge areas were very comfortable and had a nice atmosphere, but service was a bit spotty here as you might order a beer and get a martini -- I thought it was hysterical but if your not or cannot be flexible they will correct it right away. However, it might be faster to walk up to the bar yourself and just let the server clear your drinks so they can earn some money! I am sure the lounge staff is quite dynamic so any given day…any given language – so many; and I was with Tanzanians from at least three different tribes at that time!

The outside patio has a stunning view with a nice fire pit area you could sit around if you like [they used to BBQ here but that’s another story]. One beautiful evening, a young friend and I were sitting with our chairs at the edge of the patio with out feet up on the ledge and we were treated to the most magnificent moonrise we had ever seen in our entire lives – perfect setting, company and timing for the inflated moon illusion! I have a PIC somewhere that a friend took of the back of us sitting there and because it was the back of me sitting -- it’s my favorite PIC of me on my trip!

Many in our group enjoyed the pool immensely and there was poolside service as well. Now, this was a first pool visit for some and although I did not go in, all looked clean and up to par as I did hang out and take snaps. No lifeguard, so be prepared with your own safety &amp; emergency lifesaving skillz -- which I recommend having for the entire trip!

The book/gift shop was nice I suppose as these things go, expensive but some unique artisans had lovely items there. I was most interested in field guide books and maps which I purchased and paid more for those than two nights at the lodge! But I wanted them for then and the rest of my trip as I did not have room to bring any with me. The locals said one could get what I bought cheaper at a bookstore in Arusha but alas, I was not going to be at a bookstore in Arusha!

All who wanted went on two game drives each day but we had our own private vehicles and drivers here which looks like you will as well. I’ve no clue what the facility offers if one doesn’t but I supposed it is listed on their website.

Wildlife the Good News: Mammals and birds aplenty, if for some reason you had to stay at the lodge and not go on a game drive one could still see much!

Wildlife the Bad News: The public feel about the place is deceptive and the mammals are a safety issue at this facility. All is well if you take precautions; use the buddy system with a torch when walking in the evening to and from the main lodge area to your bungalow or tent.

Wildlife the Funny News: They steal anything! Don’t store food in your tent day or night and even if you are around in the day, secure your tent well, they can open it, and don’t leave items on your porch.

It is nice to explore the entire length of the bluff area on each side past the bungalow or tent you are staying in – in the daytime tho and with a buddy.

Enjoy, Den

bushchick

Hi Elizabeth_S

I stayed at Kinigi in Nov last year - very adequate, bearing in mind you only sleep (maybe take your own pillow case) and eat there (the food's a buffet and really quite good), I would definitely suggest you save your money on the hotel and do another day trekking!!

We also stayed in Nungwi on Zanzibar - at Mnarani Beach Cottages - can highly recommend. They take you snorkelling from there (US$10 for a trip) and day diving trips further around the island. The food is lovely, the rooms are great (they have aircon altho we didn't use it) with superb views. The only thing with Nungwi is there is no beach - the sea starts underneath the hotel deck (it's only ankle deep at low tide) and you can walk out quite far to swim. You can sun bathe at the pool.

Have a wonderful holiday!
Bushchick

Elizabeth_S

Thanks to everyone again!

Bushchick - what do you think of the $1800 per person price for 3 nights in Rwanda and one gorilla trek? Breaking it down it seems quite high and I've found references to less expensive, identical tours.

bushchick

That sounds really expensive ... Obviously the $500 for your trek is standard, but what makes up the remaining $1300? Maybe they've booked you into one of the luxury lodges for a night at about $1000 pppn? We paid $50 per night for a stay at Kinigi, and we stayed at a budget place in Kigali (Hotel Baobab, about $20, no complaints) - you may also like to look at a really stunning lodge called Paradis Malahide at the top of Lake Kivu in Gisenyi (about an hour and a half from Ruhengeri). Really inexpensive (we paid about $15 each!) with fantastic food and a wonderful atmosphere. Owner managed by Odette, this is a place not to miss if possible. Two sets of people have gone there after reading about it in my report and have contacted me afterwards to agree with my ravings (!)
I would suggest asking them to justify the price with a breakdown - you could do two treks for that price (which I cannot recommend strongly enough), and still have $800 for sleeping and eating!
Bushchick

Elizabeth_S

The accommodation is at Kinigi and Iris Guest House (Kigali) and is only B&amp;B, not full board. Also it does not include the airfare so it really is way out of line. Thanks for your comments - I'll check out our report.

bushchick

I checked out Iris in my Bradt guide: it falls under the $50 - $80 category (and specifies 25 000 - to 35 000 Rwandan Francs) B&amp;B. Definitely being overcharged by your operator. I hope they're only doing this section of your tour ...