Tsavo East and West?
Jun 14th, 2006, 12:30 AM
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Tsavo East and West?
Dear Fodorites
It has been 10 years since I last visited Tsavo and it is a destination that I long to return to.
What are the current choices regarding camps in the East and West, epsecially camps that have potentially good gameviewing from the camp.
Thanks
Gaurang
It has been 10 years since I last visited Tsavo and it is a destination that I long to return to.
What are the current choices regarding camps in the East and West, epsecially camps that have potentially good gameviewing from the camp.
Thanks
Gaurang
Jun 14th, 2006, 01:47 AM
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Hi Hari
My first ever safari was in Tsavo and I can still remember the size, beauty and remoteness. Tsavo is what attracted me to Africa (although both my parents were born in East Africa). Since that first trip I have done 3 more safaris in Kenya but I never returned to Tsavo. I would love to return there soon and go back to my "roots"
Regarding Tanzania, I was there in February 2006 and only covered the northern circuit. The southern circuit is on my "to-do-list".
My first ever safari was in Tsavo and I can still remember the size, beauty and remoteness. Tsavo is what attracted me to Africa (although both my parents were born in East Africa). Since that first trip I have done 3 more safaris in Kenya but I never returned to Tsavo. I would love to return there soon and go back to my "roots"
Regarding Tanzania, I was there in February 2006 and only covered the northern circuit. The southern circuit is on my "to-do-list".
Jun 14th, 2006, 02:07 AM
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Gaurang,
Hi! Trust me, there are several African destinations on my "to-do" list, and "to repeat" list.....that i think, i may need two or three lifetimes to cover them all........have you seen the thread on the forums, where everyone puts up their wish list, in terms of lodges to visit? I will try and find it and bump it up for you to read.....
Regards
Hari
Hi! Trust me, there are several African destinations on my "to-do" list, and "to repeat" list.....that i think, i may need two or three lifetimes to cover them all........have you seen the thread on the forums, where everyone puts up their wish list, in terms of lodges to visit? I will try and find it and bump it up for you to read.....
Regards
Hari
Jun 14th, 2006, 05:29 AM
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Just returned from Tsavo West, staying at Finch Hatton's a traditional safari camp. Tents are all set along the three different hippo pools, so they're easy enough to see anytime of day. At night, they all seem to come up onto the ground near the tents. But we slept so well, never heard a thing.
There are also crocs in the water which often come out onto the ground not far from the dining area.
The camp is unfenced, so plenty of monkeys flying about... the vervets are terrors while destroying the makuti roofs of the tents, sitting on your deck hoping to fine a morsel of food. Also baboons and antelope.
We enjoyed Tsavo as it is such a diverse park, from much green, to desert, to palm trees and even lava fields.
There are few accommodations here and depending on budget can get lodges - Kilugani (sp) the Serena property; in Tsavo East is Galdessa a lovely tented camp. There's also Satao camp is in East Tsavo, which Jan who posts here has visited and enjoyed very much. Do a search on this board for her comments and photo link. It can probably be found in the East Africa Index thread.
So you have choices.
There are also crocs in the water which often come out onto the ground not far from the dining area.
The camp is unfenced, so plenty of monkeys flying about... the vervets are terrors while destroying the makuti roofs of the tents, sitting on your deck hoping to fine a morsel of food. Also baboons and antelope.
We enjoyed Tsavo as it is such a diverse park, from much green, to desert, to palm trees and even lava fields.
There are few accommodations here and depending on budget can get lodges - Kilugani (sp) the Serena property; in Tsavo East is Galdessa a lovely tented camp. There's also Satao camp is in East Tsavo, which Jan who posts here has visited and enjoyed very much. Do a search on this board for her comments and photo link. It can probably be found in the East Africa Index thread.
So you have choices.
Jun 14th, 2006, 07:08 AM
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Thanks for the info Sandi
I have heard many good things about Satao and it would probably be my choice in the East. But I'm still not sure about the choice of camp in the West. I had Finch Hattons in a 2003 itinerary but I dropped it after reading reading about "dressing up" for dinner and opted for more time in the Mara (as it was early September). Is this still the case with Finch Hattons? I do enjoy camps that have good gameviewing on the doorstep.
Thanks
Gaurang
I have heard many good things about Satao and it would probably be my choice in the East. But I'm still not sure about the choice of camp in the West. I had Finch Hattons in a 2003 itinerary but I dropped it after reading reading about "dressing up" for dinner and opted for more time in the Mara (as it was early September). Is this still the case with Finch Hattons? I do enjoy camps that have good gameviewing on the doorstep.
Thanks
Gaurang
Jun 14th, 2006, 07:45 AM
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Africa,
Go to Tarhi Camp in Tsavo East. It's smaller and more reasonably priced than Satao - though Satao sounds really good as well - and there I had elephants, buffaloes, waterbucks and impalas very close to my tent – sometimes less then 2 metres.
Go to Tarhi Camp in Tsavo East. It's smaller and more reasonably priced than Satao - though Satao sounds really good as well - and there I had elephants, buffaloes, waterbucks and impalas very close to my tent – sometimes less then 2 metres.
Jun 14th, 2006, 08:19 AM
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Thanks Nyamera, I will look into that.
Has anyone experienced Severin Camp in Tsavo West? It produced no results on a Fodor's search - could it be that no Africa Fodorite has ever been there?
Here is a link...it definatley looks interesting.
http://www.severin-kenya.com/EN/camp....asp?prodid=69
Has anyone experienced Severin Camp in Tsavo West? It produced no results on a Fodor's search - could it be that no Africa Fodorite has ever been there?
Here is a link...it definatley looks interesting.
http://www.severin-kenya.com/EN/camp....asp?prodid=69
Jun 14th, 2006, 10:27 AM
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I visited Severin last year while staying at Finch Hattons. I didn't find the location/setting of Severin as interesting or compelling though there are nice views across Tsavo. They have a small waterhole, but I don't think the viewing would be good from the tents (it's in front of the dining/lounge area). In contrast, we really enjoying the hippo viewing from our tent at Finch Hattons. We also sat for hours just watching the weavers build their nests on the little islands in the middle of the springs. There were impala that wandered into camp and crocs and lots of monkeys. The hippos leave the springs each evening and return in the morning with loud grunts and splashing. We loved being awoken to those sounds every morning!
Some guests (I'd say about half) did dress more formally for dinner than at other camps where we've stayed, but there's certainly no requirement to do so. We dressed casually though I kind of did wish I'd brought one nicer outfit.
I have photos of Severin and Finch Hattons - http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&y=-e90iwe
Hope this helps.
Some guests (I'd say about half) did dress more formally for dinner than at other camps where we've stayed, but there's certainly no requirement to do so. We dressed casually though I kind of did wish I'd brought one nicer outfit.
I have photos of Severin and Finch Hattons - http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&y=-e90iwe
Hope this helps.
Jun 14th, 2006, 10:38 AM
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Jun 14th, 2006, 01:35 PM
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Maybe because we were early in the season with only four tents being occupied... nobody "dressed" for dinner. And, I certainly don't believe this is a requirement, even if some women choose to wear nice casual and men, a jacket.
Personally, I always pack a pair of black slacks and a nice sweater with shawl should I feel "dressing" is required or I just feel I want to do "dress-up."
Most people only have safari clothing, so I wouldn't let this put me off from a stay at Finch Hatton's.
Personally, I always pack a pair of black slacks and a nice sweater with shawl should I feel "dressing" is required or I just feel I want to do "dress-up."
Most people only have safari clothing, so I wouldn't let this put me off from a stay at Finch Hatton's.
Jun 14th, 2006, 01:51 PM
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Hi
Since Kilaguni was mentioned, i'd like to say that its water-hole is unbelievable in the dry season. (& Striped Hyena & Civet were regular visitors at night). Other non-camps but with very good observations from the lodge are: Voi Safari Lodge - may encounter lots of Elephants at the water-hole (It is built on & merged with a kopje sth. like Seronera/Lobo).
Ngulia with Leopard &HoneyBadger not uncommon at night (at least was afew years back).
If on the margin of Tsavo - consider Ol Donyo Waus http://www.e-gnu.com/ol_donyo_waus_kenya.html
Another idea: Salt Lick at Taita-Hills,
had nice observations at the salt-lick both day & night (a Hilton's private sactuary).
Ngutuni Lodge - Tsavo East (have not been there) has its own water-hole
But... for me nothing is like Lake Jipe, on the border of Tanzania. I've camped there before a lodge was erected. If i'm not mistaken the lodge isn't open any longer ...
Since Kilaguni was mentioned, i'd like to say that its water-hole is unbelievable in the dry season. (& Striped Hyena & Civet were regular visitors at night). Other non-camps but with very good observations from the lodge are: Voi Safari Lodge - may encounter lots of Elephants at the water-hole (It is built on & merged with a kopje sth. like Seronera/Lobo).
Ngulia with Leopard &HoneyBadger not uncommon at night (at least was afew years back).
If on the margin of Tsavo - consider Ol Donyo Waus http://www.e-gnu.com/ol_donyo_waus_kenya.html
Another idea: Salt Lick at Taita-Hills,
had nice observations at the salt-lick both day & night (a Hilton's private sactuary).
Ngutuni Lodge - Tsavo East (have not been there) has its own water-hole
But... for me nothing is like Lake Jipe, on the border of Tanzania. I've camped there before a lodge was erected. If i'm not mistaken the lodge isn't open any longer ...
Jun 14th, 2006, 05:17 PM
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If you are after wildlife at the waterhole (which is why you'll get good game viewing I guess) then I believe the time of year is quite important.
Only accommodation at Lake Jipe now is KWS bandas aby - as you suggested to me some months ago (I checked it out!). Certainly nice and isolated, although you wouldn't want to arrive and found you'd forgotten to bring some matches!!
Only accommodation at Lake Jipe now is KWS bandas aby - as you suggested to me some months ago (I checked it out!). Certainly nice and isolated, although you wouldn't want to arrive and found you'd forgotten to bring some matches!!
Jun 15th, 2006, 01:54 PM
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Gaurang:
I would definitely stay at Satao Camp. I have been to Tarhi twice, though I didn't stay there. Satao tents, camp setup, dining hall - everything far more comfortable than Tarhi. I would put in a request for one of the suite tents. They are larger and more comfortable than the others and have their own refrigerators and fans in them - good for the hot Tsavo afternoons. They also have a more unobstructed view of the waterhole. If you are there between July - November or January - March you will see tons of animals at the waterhole in front of your tent. There are also game drives twice a day which include the Aruba Dam area, though on many occasions I have foregone the game drive in favor of watching the animals from my veranda. There are usually hundreds of elephants a day at the waterhole in addition to zebra, waterbuck, giraffe, buffalo, monkeys, babboons, and occasionally topi. I've had eles. right beside my tent and lions roaring at the bathroom wall at 2:30 a.m.! You never know what surprises Satao will hold. I will be staying there for nine days in August. The only other lodge/camp I would consider staying in is Kililinda - but they have now gone exclusive use of camp for a high price.
Tsavo really is the jewel of Kenya that most safari-goers haven't caught on to yet. If you want to do something really different you can contact Sheldrick Wildlife Trust.org and book a day or two at their new camp way up in northern Tsavo in Ithumba. It is about a 2 1/2 hour drive from Satao and is self-service from the food standpoint. Satao packed meals for us to take with us. You can then go out and see the orphaned elephants when they come in from the bush to have their mudbaths. The scenery is more mountainous than the rest of Tsavo. There are only three tents here, but they are extremely comfortable. You don't see too much in the way of game on the way up to the camp because the bush is so very thick after you cross the Galana and go up over the Yatta Plateau. You do need to get permission from KWS to go up there, because there has been a lot of poaching up there. Of course, you could see the orphaned elephants at Voi also.
Another option I have done is to
spend a night at Satao Rock Camp. This is situated on the Taita Ranch. It is about 10 miles from the Buchuma Gate. The camp is built way up on a rock outcropping with views of the Taita range in the distance. You do have to walk up and down gravel paths to get from tent to dining hall, but tents are very comfortable. I have never been to Tsavo West so perhaps someone else can give you some advice on that area.
If you have any questions regarding Satao or Ithumba Camp just post them and I'll try to answer
Jan
I would definitely stay at Satao Camp. I have been to Tarhi twice, though I didn't stay there. Satao tents, camp setup, dining hall - everything far more comfortable than Tarhi. I would put in a request for one of the suite tents. They are larger and more comfortable than the others and have their own refrigerators and fans in them - good for the hot Tsavo afternoons. They also have a more unobstructed view of the waterhole. If you are there between July - November or January - March you will see tons of animals at the waterhole in front of your tent. There are also game drives twice a day which include the Aruba Dam area, though on many occasions I have foregone the game drive in favor of watching the animals from my veranda. There are usually hundreds of elephants a day at the waterhole in addition to zebra, waterbuck, giraffe, buffalo, monkeys, babboons, and occasionally topi. I've had eles. right beside my tent and lions roaring at the bathroom wall at 2:30 a.m.! You never know what surprises Satao will hold. I will be staying there for nine days in August. The only other lodge/camp I would consider staying in is Kililinda - but they have now gone exclusive use of camp for a high price.
Tsavo really is the jewel of Kenya that most safari-goers haven't caught on to yet. If you want to do something really different you can contact Sheldrick Wildlife Trust.org and book a day or two at their new camp way up in northern Tsavo in Ithumba. It is about a 2 1/2 hour drive from Satao and is self-service from the food standpoint. Satao packed meals for us to take with us. You can then go out and see the orphaned elephants when they come in from the bush to have their mudbaths. The scenery is more mountainous than the rest of Tsavo. There are only three tents here, but they are extremely comfortable. You don't see too much in the way of game on the way up to the camp because the bush is so very thick after you cross the Galana and go up over the Yatta Plateau. You do need to get permission from KWS to go up there, because there has been a lot of poaching up there. Of course, you could see the orphaned elephants at Voi also.
Another option I have done is to
spend a night at Satao Rock Camp. This is situated on the Taita Ranch. It is about 10 miles from the Buchuma Gate. The camp is built way up on a rock outcropping with views of the Taita range in the distance. You do have to walk up and down gravel paths to get from tent to dining hall, but tents are very comfortable. I have never been to Tsavo West so perhaps someone else can give you some advice on that area.
If you have any questions regarding Satao or Ithumba Camp just post them and I'll try to answer
Jan
Jun 15th, 2006, 09:50 PM
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Jan.. Do you know why November and not December - are the short rains later in Tsavo than most other places in Kenya? Or is it just a mystery of nature? I've been wondering about this (especially since April and December are my best months for getting away from work and Tsavao East is definitely part of my next itinerary).
Jun 15th, 2006, 11:10 PM
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Thanks Jan !!
for your report on Satao.
# Why don't they give exact location on their website??? i had to search offline sources for that... as a potential client made me frustrated - not a good start ...
# Topi ?
do you have a photograph ?
I've seen Topi listed on their site as well & i'm really puzzled.
Topi isn't a native antelope to Tsavo;
Was it introduced? Or is it a mistake?
Hirola (or Hunter's Hartebeest) has been introduced (tranalocated) to Tsavo (from Arawale NR), & is seen in this area e.g. around Aruba Dam.
Both antelopes belong to the same tribe - Alcelaphini...
Though there is a coastal subspecies of Topi (D.l. topi) different from the Mara sub-species (D.l. jimela), its range does not include Tsavo as far as i know...
aby
for your report on Satao.
# Why don't they give exact location on their website??? i had to search offline sources for that... as a potential client made me frustrated - not a good start ...
# Topi ?
do you have a photograph ?
I've seen Topi listed on their site as well & i'm really puzzled.
Topi isn't a native antelope to Tsavo;
Was it introduced? Or is it a mistake?
Hirola (or Hunter's Hartebeest) has been introduced (tranalocated) to Tsavo (from Arawale NR), & is seen in this area e.g. around Aruba Dam.
Both antelopes belong to the same tribe - Alcelaphini...
Though there is a coastal subspecies of Topi (D.l. topi) different from the Mara sub-species (D.l. jimela), its range does not include Tsavo as far as i know...
aby
Jun 16th, 2006, 02:27 AM
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kimburu: I'm not sure about the difference in the short rains in Tsavo. Tsavo is more arid than other areas of Kenya. Even during the heavy recent long rains, Tsavo got precious little in some areas. The camp manager wrote me that while some places in Tsavo got a lot of rain with the grass growing quite high, the area around Satao got very little. While on game drives you can see areas lush and green and a mile down the road it will be dry. I'll have to ask when I'm there what their opinion on this is.
And you are correct about viewing game in relationship to the rains being very important even with a permanent waterhole as a source. I have seen thousands of animals in Amboseli disappear literally overnight when we had a good rain one evening. It was eerie. The next morning all game was gone!
aby: If you'll click on www.sataocamp.com there is a button on the top left that says map - directions and it gives you an idea of the camp location in Tsavo. It has its own airstrip. In fact this year for the first time I am taking a charter flight from Mombasa to the airstrip just to get there quicker. It will be an experience for me. I haven't been in a really small plane since I was a kid. I hate driving that Mombasa-Nairobi highway. It has been atrocious, and now that they are starting to work on it traffic will be even worse than before.
I'm not sure, but I think the topi were translocated like the Hirola were. On my first two trips in 2001 and 2002 we saw herds of 15 - 20 topi on several occasions. You only see a rare one now. I suspect the lions have gotten a lot of them. They are beautiful animals, dark purple shades. I'll look through my old regular film pictures to see if I have a good one I can post. The number of Hirola also seems to have declined. Those were indeed translocated some time back. Rhino are also being translocated from Nairobi National Park but I suspect all of them are placed in the northern sector of Tsavo away from the tourist circuits and in an area that KWS can oversee the re-introduction.
And you are correct about viewing game in relationship to the rains being very important even with a permanent waterhole as a source. I have seen thousands of animals in Amboseli disappear literally overnight when we had a good rain one evening. It was eerie. The next morning all game was gone!
aby: If you'll click on www.sataocamp.com there is a button on the top left that says map - directions and it gives you an idea of the camp location in Tsavo. It has its own airstrip. In fact this year for the first time I am taking a charter flight from Mombasa to the airstrip just to get there quicker. It will be an experience for me. I haven't been in a really small plane since I was a kid. I hate driving that Mombasa-Nairobi highway. It has been atrocious, and now that they are starting to work on it traffic will be even worse than before.
I'm not sure, but I think the topi were translocated like the Hirola were. On my first two trips in 2001 and 2002 we saw herds of 15 - 20 topi on several occasions. You only see a rare one now. I suspect the lions have gotten a lot of them. They are beautiful animals, dark purple shades. I'll look through my old regular film pictures to see if I have a good one I can post. The number of Hirola also seems to have declined. Those were indeed translocated some time back. Rhino are also being translocated from Nairobi National Park but I suspect all of them are placed in the northern sector of Tsavo away from the tourist circuits and in an area that KWS can oversee the re-introduction.
