Trip Report - Zambia 6/7/07 - 21/7/07
Jul 24th, 2007, 03:03 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trip Report - Zambia 6/7/07 - 21/7/07
Trip Report - Zambia 6/7/07 - 21/7/07
Hi All - Got back from a wonderful 2 week safari in Zambia. Had a fantastic time while there. I am a trip report virgin, so take it easy.
Itinerary -
2n - Tafika
2n - Chikoko Bushcamp
1n - Crocodile Bushcamp
2n - Tafika
2n - Kaingo
2n - Kuyenda
2n - Zambezi Sun, Livingstone
Accommodation -
The chalets at Tafika are reed and straw with solid floors, large, airy and comfortable with twin double beds, outdoor shower, loo, solar powered lamps and a verandah with seating. The lodge is set on a bend in the Luangwa with lovely views across the sand bank, just outside the northern boundary of SLNP. The lodge has 6 chalets. The chitenge is cozy, contains a bar with a few sofas and arm chairs and some dining tables and overlooks the river. The grounds of the lodge are in an ebony (I think) grove, laid to lawn and immaculately maintained by the resident hippos. Walking, drives and mountain biking safaris are possible.
The Chikoko and Crocodile Bushcamps are located inside the park and across the river. Chikoko sits along the Chikoko channel which is seasonal. The 3 chalets are raised on stilts and open on 1 side with large double beds and solar lamps. Showering and toilet facilities are at ground level. The chitenge is built around a large tree and some sofas have been laid out along the channel. Crocodile bushcamp also has 3 reed huts with attached showers, loos and solar lamps along the Crocodile lagoon (dry for most of the year). Both are simple with all necessary comforts. Food here, as at Tafika is excellent and plenty. The focus at the bushcamps is walking.
At Kaingo we were allocated the Honeymoon Chalet, which the one furtherest away from the chitenge. The rooms are solid in construction with straw roofs, 4-poster double bed, enclosed shower and loo and had an outside bath as well.
Kuyenda is in the southern half of the park and about 1 hour drive from Mfuwe lodge and reached by crossing a sand river. Perhaps the nicest of all the bushcamps, the accommodation is spacious with 2 large doubles, outdoor shower and loo. Being experienced Africa traveller, we were assigned the newly built (2 of their 4 chalets were destroyed in the recent floods) 'Lion' chalet. Its remote and excellent. The chitenge is compact, but cozy and the food excellent.
Game viewing / Guiding -
Tafika is in excellent game viewing area. Game drives are conducted in the Nsefu sector of the park. The area is remote and only once out of 7 drives did we encounter another vehicle (from Tafika itself). Highlights of the viewing were 4 Leopards, lions (4 lionesses, 1 young male) at a warthog kills on a night drive (these were part of a 16 strong pride containing 10 cubs), several sightings of Genet and Civets, Banded Mongoose, Ellies, Impala, Puku, Kudu, Eland (herd of 7), Waterbuck, bushbuck, hippos (in their 100's), crocs (in their 1000's), yellow baboons, vervet monkeys, Thornicrofts Giraffe, Crayshaws Zebra, Buffalo, spotted Hyaena. Significant birds including Fish Eagles, Pels fishing owl, Yellow Billed, Marabou and Saddle Billed Storks, and numerous more. The stork colony in Nsefu sector is a sight to behold. There have been sightings of wild-dog (population estimated at around 90 in 5 packs), but their den sites are unknown.
Walking from Crocodile and Chikoko yielded amongst other, an unforgettable 1.5 hour effort to track 3 lionesses on foot - we got within 40 feet of the pride, a leopard kill in a tree - all we saw of the leopard was flashes of the tail, an ellie with a calf that didnt take well to our presence and made some aggressive displays before moving off. As always, walking isnt about the big things and we learnt of several fascinating snippets of information. As usual, the scout and guide displayed amazing tracking skills, intimate knowledge of the area and interactions between various elements.
Kaingo is located on the banks of the Lungwa river. The highlight has to be the Hippo hide, built into the banks of the river and allows one to get very close (20ft) to the resident hippo pod. We had an opportunity to witness 2 Hippo bulls in a very aggressive fight, drawing blood. Lots of pictures. other included a tiny abandoned hippo calf (perhaps no more than a week old), ellies, Giraffe, buffalo, pride of 13 lions, crocs, hippo (1000's) etc.
Kuyenda offers both walking and driving opportunity, but didnt yield the same amount game viewing. However, Phil Berry who is the seniormost guide in the valley is universally accepted as being a walking encyclopedia and we had intended to do as much walking as possible with him. Highlight was a Giant Eagle Owl, a Martial Eagle, Sharp's Grysbok, stalking leopard, various vultures on a hippo kill. Phil educated us on a number of smaller things in the bush.
Overall Impressions -
Remote Africa is an excellent operation. They have some of the most experienced guides in the valley. The atmosphere is very homely and friendly, the whole team is very welcoming.
Kaingo - I'll resist from posting here at the moment as I am in the middle of some feedback and communication with my TA on this. It wouldnt be fair to write anything at this time on Kaingo.
Kuyenda is an intimate Bushcamp operating to a very high standard. Phil is perhaps the best guide in the valley. Food was excellent.
Zambezi Sun - Lets just say, that its a theme park and I wont go there again. The rooms are comfortable and adequate. Their main draw is the location (5 min walk to the falls) and makes several visits to the falls possible. Breakfast (included) was sumptous and lunch (ala carte, poolside) / dinner (buffet) options are overpriced. Seeking out options in Livingstone is advisable. We had dinner at Ngoma Zanga in Livingstone, serving Zambian food. It was reasonable.
Photos to follow.
Hi All - Got back from a wonderful 2 week safari in Zambia. Had a fantastic time while there. I am a trip report virgin, so take it easy.
Itinerary -
2n - Tafika
2n - Chikoko Bushcamp
1n - Crocodile Bushcamp
2n - Tafika
2n - Kaingo
2n - Kuyenda
2n - Zambezi Sun, Livingstone
Accommodation -
The chalets at Tafika are reed and straw with solid floors, large, airy and comfortable with twin double beds, outdoor shower, loo, solar powered lamps and a verandah with seating. The lodge is set on a bend in the Luangwa with lovely views across the sand bank, just outside the northern boundary of SLNP. The lodge has 6 chalets. The chitenge is cozy, contains a bar with a few sofas and arm chairs and some dining tables and overlooks the river. The grounds of the lodge are in an ebony (I think) grove, laid to lawn and immaculately maintained by the resident hippos. Walking, drives and mountain biking safaris are possible.
The Chikoko and Crocodile Bushcamps are located inside the park and across the river. Chikoko sits along the Chikoko channel which is seasonal. The 3 chalets are raised on stilts and open on 1 side with large double beds and solar lamps. Showering and toilet facilities are at ground level. The chitenge is built around a large tree and some sofas have been laid out along the channel. Crocodile bushcamp also has 3 reed huts with attached showers, loos and solar lamps along the Crocodile lagoon (dry for most of the year). Both are simple with all necessary comforts. Food here, as at Tafika is excellent and plenty. The focus at the bushcamps is walking.
At Kaingo we were allocated the Honeymoon Chalet, which the one furtherest away from the chitenge. The rooms are solid in construction with straw roofs, 4-poster double bed, enclosed shower and loo and had an outside bath as well.
Kuyenda is in the southern half of the park and about 1 hour drive from Mfuwe lodge and reached by crossing a sand river. Perhaps the nicest of all the bushcamps, the accommodation is spacious with 2 large doubles, outdoor shower and loo. Being experienced Africa traveller, we were assigned the newly built (2 of their 4 chalets were destroyed in the recent floods) 'Lion' chalet. Its remote and excellent. The chitenge is compact, but cozy and the food excellent.
Game viewing / Guiding -
Tafika is in excellent game viewing area. Game drives are conducted in the Nsefu sector of the park. The area is remote and only once out of 7 drives did we encounter another vehicle (from Tafika itself). Highlights of the viewing were 4 Leopards, lions (4 lionesses, 1 young male) at a warthog kills on a night drive (these were part of a 16 strong pride containing 10 cubs), several sightings of Genet and Civets, Banded Mongoose, Ellies, Impala, Puku, Kudu, Eland (herd of 7), Waterbuck, bushbuck, hippos (in their 100's), crocs (in their 1000's), yellow baboons, vervet monkeys, Thornicrofts Giraffe, Crayshaws Zebra, Buffalo, spotted Hyaena. Significant birds including Fish Eagles, Pels fishing owl, Yellow Billed, Marabou and Saddle Billed Storks, and numerous more. The stork colony in Nsefu sector is a sight to behold. There have been sightings of wild-dog (population estimated at around 90 in 5 packs), but their den sites are unknown.
Walking from Crocodile and Chikoko yielded amongst other, an unforgettable 1.5 hour effort to track 3 lionesses on foot - we got within 40 feet of the pride, a leopard kill in a tree - all we saw of the leopard was flashes of the tail, an ellie with a calf that didnt take well to our presence and made some aggressive displays before moving off. As always, walking isnt about the big things and we learnt of several fascinating snippets of information. As usual, the scout and guide displayed amazing tracking skills, intimate knowledge of the area and interactions between various elements.
Kaingo is located on the banks of the Lungwa river. The highlight has to be the Hippo hide, built into the banks of the river and allows one to get very close (20ft) to the resident hippo pod. We had an opportunity to witness 2 Hippo bulls in a very aggressive fight, drawing blood. Lots of pictures. other included a tiny abandoned hippo calf (perhaps no more than a week old), ellies, Giraffe, buffalo, pride of 13 lions, crocs, hippo (1000's) etc.
Kuyenda offers both walking and driving opportunity, but didnt yield the same amount game viewing. However, Phil Berry who is the seniormost guide in the valley is universally accepted as being a walking encyclopedia and we had intended to do as much walking as possible with him. Highlight was a Giant Eagle Owl, a Martial Eagle, Sharp's Grysbok, stalking leopard, various vultures on a hippo kill. Phil educated us on a number of smaller things in the bush.
Overall Impressions -
Remote Africa is an excellent operation. They have some of the most experienced guides in the valley. The atmosphere is very homely and friendly, the whole team is very welcoming.
Kaingo - I'll resist from posting here at the moment as I am in the middle of some feedback and communication with my TA on this. It wouldnt be fair to write anything at this time on Kaingo.
Kuyenda is an intimate Bushcamp operating to a very high standard. Phil is perhaps the best guide in the valley. Food was excellent.
Zambezi Sun - Lets just say, that its a theme park and I wont go there again. The rooms are comfortable and adequate. Their main draw is the location (5 min walk to the falls) and makes several visits to the falls possible. Breakfast (included) was sumptous and lunch (ala carte, poolside) / dinner (buffet) options are overpriced. Seeking out options in Livingstone is advisable. We had dinner at Ngoma Zanga in Livingstone, serving Zambian food. It was reasonable.
Photos to follow.
Jul 24th, 2007, 04:44 AM
#2
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the report and look forward to your photos.
I am inquiring about Remote's 8 day N&S Luangwa walking trip and I am hoping maybe they have some spots open this Sept. I was very encouraged by your impressions of Remote and particularly your postive experience at Chicoko and Crocodile camps!!
I am inquiring about Remote's 8 day N&S Luangwa walking trip and I am hoping maybe they have some spots open this Sept. I was very encouraged by your impressions of Remote and particularly your postive experience at Chicoko and Crocodile camps!!
Jul 24th, 2007, 05:30 AM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I shall be including Tafika in S Luangwa and Mwaleshi in N Luangwa next year, when I plan to return. We met some guests who'd returned from NNLP and were very happy with their experience.
I am however a bit sceptical about travelling there to walk in September/October with the temps regularly topping 38 C. We walked in 30 C and it was a bit warm already.
I am however a bit sceptical about travelling there to walk in September/October with the temps regularly topping 38 C. We walked in 30 C and it was a bit warm already.
Jul 24th, 2007, 06:16 AM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Photos at - Is there another recommended storage and sharing website?
http://www1.snapfish.co.uk/share/p=5...=SYE/otsi=SALB
http://www1.snapfish.co.uk/share/p=5...=SYE/otsi=SALB
Jul 24th, 2007, 06:20 AM
#6
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Amol,
The snapfish says, i need to have an account with them to view your pics? maybe there are some boxes you need to check to take care of that....
The kodakgallery is very popular site usually.
Thanks,
Hari
The snapfish says, i need to have an account with them to view your pics? maybe there are some boxes you need to check to take care of that....
The kodakgallery is very popular site usually.
Thanks,
Hari
Jul 24th, 2007, 07:49 AM
#8
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,619
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the trip report. I've stayed at all those camps and enjoyed them. I'll be curious as to what the problem was at Kaingo. Did you ride the microlight at Tafika? John and Carol are excellent hosts there.
I use Smugmug for my photos. The black backgrounds really highlight the photos.
I use Smugmug for my photos. The black backgrounds really highlight the photos.
Jul 24th, 2007, 12:15 PM
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ShayTay
Yes I got on the microlight with Jon. Its a great experience and provides a whole different perspective on the the area. In particular was a new ox-bow lagoon formed this year, a fish-eagles nest with a chick in it and watching hippo-chains from the sky.
I'll post on Kaingo soon.
Yes I got on the microlight with Jon. Its a great experience and provides a whole different perspective on the the area. In particular was a new ox-bow lagoon formed this year, a fish-eagles nest with a chick in it and watching hippo-chains from the sky.
I'll post on Kaingo soon.
Jul 26th, 2007, 12:40 AM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jul 26th, 2007, 03:37 AM
#11
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I enjoy your report and the pictures.
Doing so many game drives without other vehicles itīs great.
I am also curious about your Kaingo experience,it is a place that attract me a lot.
Thanks for the report.
Paco.
Doing so many game drives without other vehicles itīs great.
I am also curious about your Kaingo experience,it is a place that attract me a lot.
Thanks for the report.
Paco.
Jul 26th, 2007, 07:20 AM
#13
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We were quite lucky to see the herd of 7 Eland and they let us get reasonably close (on the other side of the river) before taking off. This was in the Nsefu sector quite close to the northern border of the park.
Jul 26th, 2007, 06:00 PM
#15
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Amol
Will be interested to hear of your report on Kaingo as we will be there for 9 nights (6 @ Kaingo+3 @ Mwamba)in Sept.
Lets hope it's not too controversial, as we don't need any more surprises after what we have been through, re. booking/deposit, etc. :-\
Cheers
Marc
Will be interested to hear of your report on Kaingo as we will be there for 9 nights (6 @ Kaingo+3 @ Mwamba)in Sept.
Lets hope it's not too controversial, as we don't need any more surprises after what we have been through, re. booking/deposit, etc. :-\
Cheers
Marc
Jul 27th, 2007, 12:34 AM
#16
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think I need to end this suspense about Kaingo.
We found that the camp didnt measure up to the same standards of service, guiding/tracking, warmth/hospitality that I experienced at both Tafika/Chikoko and Kuyenda. Its difficult to put a finger on this but the atmosphere was very calculated, businesslike and regimented. We loved the laidback and easy going ambience that we found at other lodges and we didnt get that at Kaingo.
Now, if we paid similar prices at 2 lodges, we expect a similar standard/level of service and if we didnt get it, then to my mind thats a problem. Other travellers may not have the same experience but to us that was the low-point of the trip and I certainly wont be going back to Kaingo nor could I recommend it.
We found that the camp didnt measure up to the same standards of service, guiding/tracking, warmth/hospitality that I experienced at both Tafika/Chikoko and Kuyenda. Its difficult to put a finger on this but the atmosphere was very calculated, businesslike and regimented. We loved the laidback and easy going ambience that we found at other lodges and we didnt get that at Kaingo.
Now, if we paid similar prices at 2 lodges, we expect a similar standard/level of service and if we didnt get it, then to my mind thats a problem. Other travellers may not have the same experience but to us that was the low-point of the trip and I certainly wont be going back to Kaingo nor could I recommend it.
Jul 27th, 2007, 01:36 AM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am surprised you say that.
He didnt actually guide us and I had 2 brief interactions with him, but this demeanour partly summed up Kaingo for us.
Did you have 'problems' with him too?
He didnt actually guide us and I had 2 brief interactions with him, but this demeanour partly summed up Kaingo for us.
Did you have 'problems' with him too?
Jul 27th, 2007, 03:24 AM
#20
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,064
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
amolkarnik, I wouldn't directly call it a problem, but I guess I understand what you are talking about - there's still room for improvement. My morning game drives with Ian weren't as enthusiastic as those with Patrick (who really is a top guide), and with Ian as responsible camp manager I also noticed that some small details could certainly be better organized - repairs in rooms, cleaning of outdoor chairs, status of the 'shop', etc. Nevertheless, I still regard Kaingo/Mwamba as one of the top experiences in South Luangwa, with some real unique features, and I certainly will be back one day. (I can't say this for all of the other outfits.)
