Third time to Africa: Kenya trip report
Jul 6th, 2011, 02:56 AM
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Third time to Africa: Kenya trip report
On this trip I visited the triangle of Porini Amboseli, Kicheche Laikipia and Kicheche Bush camps.
Day 1-2, Macushla House in Nairobi (Karen). I hate to give away this fabulous gem of a tucked away hideaway.... But as a starting point to catch our breath, have a hot bath, a lovely breakfast, and enjoy the quiet lushness of Karen Blixen's "backyard", I cannot imagine a more superb little B+B.
Day 2-5, Amboseli Porini Camp. The tents were clean and tasteful. The food was average to good, and the staff was nice, but quiet (few spoke English). We spent most of the time on our own. Our Masai guides were young and knowledgeable, and the drives were good. The camp is relatively new, and the private and quiet conservancy, which normally would provide a private and viewing of relaxed game, was quiet. Too early in the season? Animals not yet used to vehicles and humans? Not sure. Amboseli National Park (the park beyond the park where the camp is located) was amazing, but vast, with roads that do not allow you to get close to animals unless they come to you (no off-roading whatsoever!). A wonderful experience to see Kilimanjaro and interesting and beautiful vistas and elephants. I got a lot of scenic photography. We had a male lion in our camp one early morning as we were waking up, and the sound of his calls at the watering hole 50 yards away, was absolutely, without a doubt, the highlight of our trip.
Day 6-9 Kicheche Laikipia Camp. A deliciously magical and perfectly run little camp on a small lake (more like a massive pond) in a private conservancy on the equator. This is my favourite camp of the three. Andy+Sonia, run this camp, and there are not enough kudos on earth to award him for it. Andy is Zimbabwean, late 50s, with a faint resemblance to Sean Connery: charming, incredibly smart and welcoming. He runs the camp like a tight ship, meals are exceptionally gourmet and timely, rooms are massive and beautifully appointed, and the schedule is organized and varied. The general manager Andrew, was warm and very educated, and spoke to us about everything and anything. We dined with Andy+Andrew daily, usually outside by the lake, and truly enjoyed a first class experience (imagine white table clothes, sit-down service, and gourmet dining under a cypress tree in paradise watching elephants frolic). We went to the rhino sanctuary where 4 of the world's last Northern White Rhino live, which was very special. We also saw the greatest sunsets/sunrises I have every seen in my life, just above Mt. Kenya, in a private and beautiful setting. This conservancy was more established than Porini and animals were not skittish. Best of all, being there early in the season meant seeing almost no other vehicles. It was just us, our brilliant guide (whose eyesight defies human ability), and heaven on earth.
Day 9-12 Kicheche Bush Camp. Given we had just come from Kicheche, I knew that this experience would be outstanding. And it was, if more informal. Our gracious management Darren and Emma were absolutely wonderful, funny, happy and gracious and made our stay wonderful. Our tents were luxurious and VERY tastefully decorated, in neutrals and modern furnishings. The main tent was beautiful and comfortable and we enjoyed sitting around in the evenings and socializing with our hosts and guests. The meals were served alfresco in the afternoons and inside in the evenings, and the service was with a smile and with pleasure. Of all the times I've been to East Africa, I have never met happier, more accommodating staff. The food was very good and varied, with a lot of beautiful soups and baked breads, as well as meats and fish. Dessert is baked fresh daily, and served twice a day! Similar to Laikipia, lunch is buffet and dinners are sit down, and very elegant. Unlike the other areas of Kenya, the Masai Mara is teeming with game and not too hard to find. Our driver James was relaxed and easy and worked hard to find us leopard, cheetah and lions and more lions. This is truly cat land. The private conservancy where the camp was located, was definitely the most animal-active of the three, where animals were NOT skittish, and very few other vehicles passed thru, which allowed us much-needed privacy. The Mara is VERY crowded, so being there early in the season was smart planning.
So, if you are planning to go to Kenya, here is my list of must haves:
- SMALL camp (max 8 tents)
- Open air vehicles that only carry max 4 people (vehicles at Kicheche were perfect!)
- Private conservancy setting, with access to the main park (you pay for this in your package)
- An excellent zoom lens!
Happy travels!
Day 1-2, Macushla House in Nairobi (Karen). I hate to give away this fabulous gem of a tucked away hideaway.... But as a starting point to catch our breath, have a hot bath, a lovely breakfast, and enjoy the quiet lushness of Karen Blixen's "backyard", I cannot imagine a more superb little B+B.
Day 2-5, Amboseli Porini Camp. The tents were clean and tasteful. The food was average to good, and the staff was nice, but quiet (few spoke English). We spent most of the time on our own. Our Masai guides were young and knowledgeable, and the drives were good. The camp is relatively new, and the private and quiet conservancy, which normally would provide a private and viewing of relaxed game, was quiet. Too early in the season? Animals not yet used to vehicles and humans? Not sure. Amboseli National Park (the park beyond the park where the camp is located) was amazing, but vast, with roads that do not allow you to get close to animals unless they come to you (no off-roading whatsoever!). A wonderful experience to see Kilimanjaro and interesting and beautiful vistas and elephants. I got a lot of scenic photography. We had a male lion in our camp one early morning as we were waking up, and the sound of his calls at the watering hole 50 yards away, was absolutely, without a doubt, the highlight of our trip.
Day 6-9 Kicheche Laikipia Camp. A deliciously magical and perfectly run little camp on a small lake (more like a massive pond) in a private conservancy on the equator. This is my favourite camp of the three. Andy+Sonia, run this camp, and there are not enough kudos on earth to award him for it. Andy is Zimbabwean, late 50s, with a faint resemblance to Sean Connery: charming, incredibly smart and welcoming. He runs the camp like a tight ship, meals are exceptionally gourmet and timely, rooms are massive and beautifully appointed, and the schedule is organized and varied. The general manager Andrew, was warm and very educated, and spoke to us about everything and anything. We dined with Andy+Andrew daily, usually outside by the lake, and truly enjoyed a first class experience (imagine white table clothes, sit-down service, and gourmet dining under a cypress tree in paradise watching elephants frolic). We went to the rhino sanctuary where 4 of the world's last Northern White Rhino live, which was very special. We also saw the greatest sunsets/sunrises I have every seen in my life, just above Mt. Kenya, in a private and beautiful setting. This conservancy was more established than Porini and animals were not skittish. Best of all, being there early in the season meant seeing almost no other vehicles. It was just us, our brilliant guide (whose eyesight defies human ability), and heaven on earth.
Day 9-12 Kicheche Bush Camp. Given we had just come from Kicheche, I knew that this experience would be outstanding. And it was, if more informal. Our gracious management Darren and Emma were absolutely wonderful, funny, happy and gracious and made our stay wonderful. Our tents were luxurious and VERY tastefully decorated, in neutrals and modern furnishings. The main tent was beautiful and comfortable and we enjoyed sitting around in the evenings and socializing with our hosts and guests. The meals were served alfresco in the afternoons and inside in the evenings, and the service was with a smile and with pleasure. Of all the times I've been to East Africa, I have never met happier, more accommodating staff. The food was very good and varied, with a lot of beautiful soups and baked breads, as well as meats and fish. Dessert is baked fresh daily, and served twice a day! Similar to Laikipia, lunch is buffet and dinners are sit down, and very elegant. Unlike the other areas of Kenya, the Masai Mara is teeming with game and not too hard to find. Our driver James was relaxed and easy and worked hard to find us leopard, cheetah and lions and more lions. This is truly cat land. The private conservancy where the camp was located, was definitely the most animal-active of the three, where animals were NOT skittish, and very few other vehicles passed thru, which allowed us much-needed privacy. The Mara is VERY crowded, so being there early in the season was smart planning.
So, if you are planning to go to Kenya, here is my list of must haves:
- SMALL camp (max 8 tents)
- Open air vehicles that only carry max 4 people (vehicles at Kicheche were perfect!)
- Private conservancy setting, with access to the main park (you pay for this in your package)
- An excellent zoom lens!
Happy travels!
Jul 6th, 2011, 01:13 PM
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Re Porini Amboseli, your comment <i>"The camp is relatively new, and the private and quiet conservancy"</i>
This isn't a new camp, nor new conservancy; camp has been here for quite a number of years. Maybe you mean that "the tents have been refurbished?"
Of course, there's no "off-roading" inside the Amboseli Reserve. The eco-environment (ground) is simply too fragile, which I'm sure was obvious. It sure was to us when we first visited 17/yrs ago.
This isn't a new camp, nor new conservancy; camp has been here for quite a number of years. Maybe you mean that "the tents have been refurbished?"
Of course, there's no "off-roading" inside the Amboseli Reserve. The eco-environment (ground) is simply too fragile, which I'm sure was obvious. It sure was to us when we first visited 17/yrs ago.
Jul 6th, 2011, 03:37 PM
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Agree totally with your assessment of Macushla House. I wanted to move in!!
A superb spot for solo female travellers, especially a newbie like myself, as there was always someone interesting about to have dinner with.
A superb spot for solo female travellers, especially a newbie like myself, as there was always someone interesting about to have dinner with.
Jul 6th, 2011, 07:06 PM
#5
Thank you for your report. Sounds like a great trip. I hope you'll have time to post a few photos if you can. James was my guide at Kicheche Bush too! I agree that the staff is very special there. And yes, Macushla is so relaxing.
(While I'm working mine!)
Jul 7th, 2011, 05:12 PM
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Ambo Porini has been there for just 3 years, and it showed. Tents were new and lovely, staff was quiet and often not sure what to do with themselves, meal schedules were rarely on time, and unpredictable. We saw almost no game in the conservancy, and when we did, we couldn't get within 20 yards of them. Even our wonderful Masai guides (when they weren't on their cell phones) would attest to the fearfulness of the animals and lack of activity in the Conservancy. All in all, I enjoyed seeing Kilimanjaro and having so much private space to ourselves! But admittedly, I was expecting more from Porini. Was it worth the money? Without a doubt!
Jul 8th, 2011, 09:19 AM
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LionLove -
Not meaning to be picky, or feel I'm a bit daft... but from owner of Porini Camps, the following:
<i>"Porini Amboseli was our first camp and <b>we started it in 1999! It’s the oldest and not 3 years old.</b> The staff person she spoke to must have misunderstood her. Maybe he thought she was asking how long he had been there...
Then came Porini Mara six years ago, followed by Porini Lion five years ago and then Porini Rhino four years ago."</i>
Hope this clarifies for all readers.
Oh, sorry not to have said earlier... your trip report is great.
Not meaning to be picky, or feel I'm a bit daft... but from owner of Porini Camps, the following:
<i>"Porini Amboseli was our first camp and <b>we started it in 1999! It’s the oldest and not 3 years old.</b> The staff person she spoke to must have misunderstood her. Maybe he thought she was asking how long he had been there...
Then came Porini Mara six years ago, followed by Porini Lion five years ago and then Porini Rhino four years ago."</i>
Hope this clarifies for all readers.
Oh, sorry not to have said earlier... your trip report is great.
Jul 9th, 2011, 04:22 PM
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Sandi
I was certainly surprised to hear that the camp was only there for 3 years, so clearly the gentleman I asked didn't understand my question (back to the lack of English). I messaged my travel agent with my commentary (a lot of it was good) and I believe she already took it up with Gamewatchers. I think feedback is important, even if it's in isolation. It also didn't help matters that the manager left ill with malaria on the second day. Porini is still tops on TripAdvisor and I am well aware that the first week of the season is simply a time for everyone to get into a groove. It's all good!
I was certainly surprised to hear that the camp was only there for 3 years, so clearly the gentleman I asked didn't understand my question (back to the lack of English). I messaged my travel agent with my commentary (a lot of it was good) and I believe she already took it up with Gamewatchers. I think feedback is important, even if it's in isolation. It also didn't help matters that the manager left ill with malaria on the second day. Porini is still tops on TripAdvisor and I am well aware that the first week of the season is simply a time for everyone to get into a groove. It's all good!
Jul 11th, 2011, 03:54 PM
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Leely2...go back! My trip was 1/2 the price of my first time there. It's all about smart planning and good timing. I believe Sandi can help with booking, she was well priced. I highly suggest going in the first weeks of season opening. It's quiet, not too hot and enchanting...
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