296vancouver

Hi all,
1) I'm wondering where best to eat in Ruhengeri for a couple of nights -- some place with pretty fast service and western-style food. And is there a good/fast restaurant for lunch on the way to the Kigali airport from Butare? I've got a 5-hour drive that day and will definitely want to eat well before my onward transatlantic home.
2) I've been browsing the forums trying to get ahold of a street map of Ruhengeri (aka Musanze) to no avail. Has anyone got an old map they can scan out of an old guidebook?
Has anyone gone to Virunga Lodge for lunch recently -- how was the food?
3) Has anyone been to PNV in December/January -- how hot did it get on the trek, and what was the temp early morning and night? I've found some info on blogs where people complained it was very cold and damp -- just need to know what to pack.
4) I've got some new leather hiking boots which I'm breaking in for the trekking. They're not totally broken in yet, and though they aren't currently causing many problems, I want a backup pair. Need some advice here -- don't have too many options:
I've got some Nike trailrunners with decent (not great) treads, a bit better than regular running shoes. However, the toe part is not protected well -- I wanted a hard plastic stop, and the Nike one I can press in with my thumb. I wonder if these are still okay as a backup. Pls know I am very hard to fit, already in men's sizes (thus the poor fit), and running out of options (pardon the pun). The only other footwear I have are my Australian Blundstones, which have really no treads at all.

Thanks

atravelynn

Sorry I am no help with #1, #2, #3. Cold and damp is what I've heard for Dec-Jan.

#2.5 I did exactly that. Here is the excerpt from my Aug 2009 report, which covers lunch and then some. The food was excellent.

atravelynn on Sep 13, 09 at 5:26pm
<u>Lunch at the Very Lovely Virunga Lodge, Potty Talk, Exploding Seedpods, and More</u>


In 2004 I visited Virunga Lodge just as it was being completed so I wanted to go back and see the finished product. I joined a nice couple and had an excellent lunch of kabaobs with yogurt dipping sauce in a cucumber boat. We all enjoyed the fine cuisine and the beautiful lake views from our lunch table.

When I discovered they had foregone their third gorilla visit to relax and enjoy the special ambience of the lodge, I felt slightly guilty for being plopped down at their table and intruding. But they were most gracious in making me feel welcome and had some interesting tales to share.

They loved the lodge and were probably typical in their opinion of the eco-toilets that used a scoop of dirt to cover organic matter. “It’s a novelty for a day, but after that I want to flush.” That’s why the eco-toilets are being replaced with flushers. It’s too bad, but it’s what the market wants. There were construction crews putting in big septic tanks, placed inconspicuously, while I was there.

Of course I flushed daily at Kinigi Guesthouse. In fact, they asked me if I scooped or flushed and when I replied, “flush” they let out a wistful “must be nice” sigh in unison. I tried to explain that flushing wasn’t everything and that my accommodations could not compare with the exquisite paradise around us. But I couldn’t convince them that I was not simply being modest in not flaunting my flushing abilities.

The Virunga staff members provided excellent service--from the manager who met me upon arrival and sent me off at the end of my visit, to the restaurant wait staff, to anybody I happened to encounter on the grounds. This beautiful place is truly a first class operation. And I had not even taken advantage of the massage. Guests receive a complimentary massage after each gorilla trek. If anyone was concerned about their muscles tightening up or getting sore, I think a massage could make the difference between going for a second gorilla visit or not.

After lunch, I spent over an hour wandering around the lovely grounds, taking pictures, bird watching, looking at agama lizards, petting the resident cat, and enjoying lake views from all angles. I also spent time observing and listening to one of the methods of seed dispersal. Wind, animals, and water will disperse seeds, but those methods are not as interesting as the seedpod explosions that were going on all around me. It was like a shooting gallery. I was truly fascinated but the cat was unimpressed and slept through it all. Of course, there was no threat to bystanders; it’s not like the seeds were dangerous projectiles or anything. For anyone booked at Virunga Lodge, there were lots of interesting verandas and patios with comfy furniture where one could quietly repose, away from the staccato blasts of the exploding seed pods.

#4 I'd continue to work on breaking in those new boots of yours. You still have ample time. One pair of boots I used had a soft toe and I never thought about it being a problem and it was not. What was more important was ankle support and gripping the ground, which could be slippery in Dec-Jan.

Whatever your footwear, a walking stick helps and if you found you had trouble maneuvering, your porter can always assist you. Do hire a porter so if you fall down, you don't land on your camera that you are carrying and break it; to help alleviate concerns about your footwear being up to the job; and to support the people of the area with work.

Have a great trip!

296vancouver

Hi Lynn, thanks for your answer! Good information about the boots -- I'll just do my best wearing them in. They do offer wonderful support, and I found some memory foam insoles that have alleviated the problem by about 50% which is great. (Don't ask me how many I tried till I found these on the weekend

BTW do you know where I might get my hands on a book of botanicals in Rwanda (partic Nyungwe, which has more than 250 orchid species according to Bradt's update, I noticed...Wow!)

Leely2

296vancouver, please post a bit about your trip when you return. I'll be going to Rwanda in June and would love to read about your experiences.

Have fun and keep wearing those boots!

atravelynn

You must do whatever your feet demand! Take some spare insoles in case they get wet.

During your 5-hour layover, you can compose your report for Leely.

296vancouver

Sounds good ladies, I better bring my pencil sharpener!
Leely, whereabouts are you going in Rwanda?

Leely2

296, just to Kigali, PNV (2x gorillas and 1x golden monkeys) and a bit of time on Lake Kivu. Would love to spend more time there but am going solo and it's rather pricey.

You're self-driving, yes?

Have a wonderful time!

296vancouver

Hi Leely2, no actually I'm not self-driving but I've hired a ground operator to take me around, as I want to see more of the country. If you're going alone and money is a factor, I've read that it's quite easy to take public transportation to the places you've listed. I'm short on time, so I hired someone, plus I want to go south to Nyungwe and apparently that's an area you really need your own transport.

You could do the trip half and half...ie, get from Kigali to PNV yourself (public bus leaves from UTC I think in central Kigali) to Ruhengeri (aka Musanze). There's another public bus to Lake Kivu. I think the fares are about $2-3 each way. Then, if you wanted to see more of the country, you could probably hire a car/driver from there. I know that the car rental places have drivers, and the daily fee is about $200. If you only need him for a day or two, it may be worth it to see the rest that Rwanda has to offer. With some luck, you may find some people interested in joining you and splitting cost. Good luck. I'll post when I get back.