lions on my "non boring" game drives
Sep 14th, 2006, 01:00 PM
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lions on my "non boring" game drives
for those who do not know, i have been accused of calling certain wild animals boring, hence the title.
ok, less than a week ago i arrived to madikwe and right off the airstrip's resient warthog zebra spotting, a vehicle was rushing the other way empty. why? to rescue a stuck in the mud vehicle "surrounded" by lions. the driver also said there had been two fresh giraffe kills on the reserve. lions seemed almost guaranteed.
(i had up to this point spent more than 10 game drives in kenya and uganda without spotting a single maned male).
we set out for the evening game drivce and started heading to the west side of the reserve. is this where thje dead giraffe is? i asked. no that's the other direction. no lions for me, i thought, again.
we arrived at am emoty cage where other vehicles were creeping around and the guide explained the scene. the cage had that morning contiained a male lion being moved to another park. his presence attraction two coalitions of males who had scuffled that morning, we would find them, and guage their moods.
when he couldn't find the first pair i thught great no lions, but he and another vehicle guide set out on foot with a rifle. within two minutes they were returning quickly. the lions were right there under the next tree. two beautiful young males with fluffy manes!!
after lots of yawns and stretches one stood up- always thrilling and then just lay down again.
we set out to find the other two, the older males with black manes and they were less than 500 meters away under a different set of trees. one got up and walked right past us- i was too scared to look in his eyes. he was lietrally an arm's length from the vehicle and i was on the very edge@!
a third male joined this old group- a juvenille but a large one. he drank from a pool and the sun set.
the guide said they were likely to fight and if the strong males got hold of the young one, tha would be a fight to the death. as night fell the young tough males moved closer and closer, there were four vehicles, two each watrching both sets get closer and closer. the young male has skulked off into the brush. with thelas rays of light the younger males bolted and the older ones did, to., we took off into the thorny bushes trying to keep up with their power. the vehicles crashed through so much brush the entire seat was coated with thorns and twigs and alas we lost the in tall grass, even though we could hear the grunts.
is this just uide hype? he said he'd never seen anything like that in his life. (ok, he seemed about 25, so no great claim there).
and that was only the first night...
and THAT's what i mean by a non-boring game drive.
thanks for reading! kerikeri
ok, less than a week ago i arrived to madikwe and right off the airstrip's resient warthog zebra spotting, a vehicle was rushing the other way empty. why? to rescue a stuck in the mud vehicle "surrounded" by lions. the driver also said there had been two fresh giraffe kills on the reserve. lions seemed almost guaranteed.
(i had up to this point spent more than 10 game drives in kenya and uganda without spotting a single maned male).
we set out for the evening game drivce and started heading to the west side of the reserve. is this where thje dead giraffe is? i asked. no that's the other direction. no lions for me, i thought, again.
we arrived at am emoty cage where other vehicles were creeping around and the guide explained the scene. the cage had that morning contiained a male lion being moved to another park. his presence attraction two coalitions of males who had scuffled that morning, we would find them, and guage their moods.
when he couldn't find the first pair i thught great no lions, but he and another vehicle guide set out on foot with a rifle. within two minutes they were returning quickly. the lions were right there under the next tree. two beautiful young males with fluffy manes!!
after lots of yawns and stretches one stood up- always thrilling and then just lay down again.
we set out to find the other two, the older males with black manes and they were less than 500 meters away under a different set of trees. one got up and walked right past us- i was too scared to look in his eyes. he was lietrally an arm's length from the vehicle and i was on the very edge@!
a third male joined this old group- a juvenille but a large one. he drank from a pool and the sun set.
the guide said they were likely to fight and if the strong males got hold of the young one, tha would be a fight to the death. as night fell the young tough males moved closer and closer, there were four vehicles, two each watrching both sets get closer and closer. the young male has skulked off into the brush. with thelas rays of light the younger males bolted and the older ones did, to., we took off into the thorny bushes trying to keep up with their power. the vehicles crashed through so much brush the entire seat was coated with thorns and twigs and alas we lost the in tall grass, even though we could hear the grunts.
is this just uide hype? he said he'd never seen anything like that in his life. (ok, he seemed about 25, so no great claim there).
and that was only the first night...
and THAT's what i mean by a non-boring game drive.
thanks for reading! kerikeri
Sep 14th, 2006, 01:45 PM
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keri - from your typing it seems you were as excited in the telling here as when it was happening. I loved it... and you just never know. I've had my share of so-called "boring" game drives or "oh, I've seen enough of those animals," but it's episodes as you describe, when least expected and about to give up again, that soon makes me forget about boring.
Sep 14th, 2006, 03:16 PM
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kerikeri,
I can TOTALLY appreciate your fear of looking that lion in the eye when it was so close. I even go as far as holding my breath in similar circumstances. However, I do get a false sense of security when I am behind a camera.
Interesting that you struck out on maned lions in Kenya but then hit the jackpot in Madikwe. Madikwe is (perhaps unfairly) often said not to have sufficient wildlife but that did not seem to be your own experience, at least not when it came to maned lions.
I will spend 3 nights at Mateya in Madikwe in about 11 weeks and it will be my final stop following 16 nights in Botswana, a night in Sandton and 3 nights at Sabi Sabi. Hopefully I, too, will have plenty of "non boring" game drives!
I can TOTALLY appreciate your fear of looking that lion in the eye when it was so close. I even go as far as holding my breath in similar circumstances. However, I do get a false sense of security when I am behind a camera.
Interesting that you struck out on maned lions in Kenya but then hit the jackpot in Madikwe. Madikwe is (perhaps unfairly) often said not to have sufficient wildlife but that did not seem to be your own experience, at least not when it came to maned lions.
I will spend 3 nights at Mateya in Madikwe in about 11 weeks and it will be my final stop following 16 nights in Botswana, a night in Sandton and 3 nights at Sabi Sabi. Hopefully I, too, will have plenty of "non boring" game drives!
Sep 14th, 2006, 04:02 PM
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exactly! looking in his eyes i thought would somehow provoke him!
and you're right, it was too dark for my terrible camera at that point so i had no "protection."
the guide said "this is what you wanted, isn't it!" and all i could think was: "yes, but no!"
i really thought looking in his eyes would be like "challenging" him and then i would be like dinner. and i did hold my breath! but i suppose that is exactly the thrill we are after!
thanks for reading and making me feel less like a scaredy cat! i have been told that madikwe actually has too many lions so you are certain to see plenty. and, state secret- but the wild dogs that were wiped out by rabies and an escape through the fence during the rains this year are getting replaced, possibly this month, so you will see those, too. (they swapped a rhino one guide told me).
enjoy!
and you're right, it was too dark for my terrible camera at that point so i had no "protection."
the guide said "this is what you wanted, isn't it!" and all i could think was: "yes, but no!"
i really thought looking in his eyes would be like "challenging" him and then i would be like dinner. and i did hold my breath! but i suppose that is exactly the thrill we are after!
thanks for reading and making me feel less like a scaredy cat! i have been told that madikwe actually has too many lions so you are certain to see plenty. and, state secret- but the wild dogs that were wiped out by rabies and an escape through the fence during the rains this year are getting replaced, possibly this month, so you will see those, too. (they swapped a rhino one guide told me).
enjoy!
Sep 14th, 2006, 04:12 PM
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oh, and as for other game, there were plenty of herds of elephants, white rhino, waterbuck, wildebeest, zebra, giraffe, civets, baboons, great birding and, believe it or not - it was news throughout the reserve- our great guide found us a leopard one night (very rare there he was the talk of the town).
at night there were also hyena and by day we saw jackals in two separate places (not the same animals). and warthogs everywhere and impala of course and on one remote road we found the tiniest antelope (forget its name) the one that buries its dung to confuse predators. so madikwe is quite a great choice.
this was my second visit there and it was spectacular the first time, too, with a wild dog kill, elands, hartebeest and the aforementioned species. it totally beat masai mara for me easily.
at night there were also hyena and by day we saw jackals in two separate places (not the same animals). and warthogs everywhere and impala of course and on one remote road we found the tiniest antelope (forget its name) the one that buries its dung to confuse predators. so madikwe is quite a great choice.
this was my second visit there and it was spectacular the first time, too, with a wild dog kill, elands, hartebeest and the aforementioned species. it totally beat masai mara for me easily.
Sep 14th, 2006, 04:55 PM
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Great stuff. The young Lions are probably ones we saw last year, one was undoubtedly the handsomest male we had ever seen, I am sure he has more scratches now though!
A Leopard thats awesome for Madikwe, they are very shy there, our guide had been there three yearsand averaged two sightings per year.
A Leopard thats awesome for Madikwe, they are very shy there, our guide had been there three yearsand averaged two sightings per year.
Sep 14th, 2006, 05:38 PM
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Definitely NOT boring!
The urge to a avoid direct eye contact is a primal reaction of submissiveness. It is interesting when you can observe yourself exhibiting this behavior in the presence of a more dominant force.
I had forgotten all about your previous boring game animal comments.
The urge to a avoid direct eye contact is a primal reaction of submissiveness. It is interesting when you can observe yourself exhibiting this behavior in the presence of a more dominant force.
I had forgotten all about your previous boring game animal comments.
Sep 14th, 2006, 11:13 PM
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kerikeri,
Yes, I had dinner recently with the GM of Mateya and I know about the wild dogs. However, for reasons you mentioned, I am optimistic that I will see the new ones. At least as of last month, I believe there were still a few wild dogs left (in single digits) but that they were scheduled to have more introduced. Anyway, if I don't see wild dogs at Mateya then I will hopefully see them at either Linyanti Bushcamp, Lebala or Lagoon.
Thanks for sharing your exciting encounter!
Yes, I had dinner recently with the GM of Mateya and I know about the wild dogs. However, for reasons you mentioned, I am optimistic that I will see the new ones. At least as of last month, I believe there were still a few wild dogs left (in single digits) but that they were scheduled to have more introduced. Anyway, if I don't see wild dogs at Mateya then I will hopefully see them at either Linyanti Bushcamp, Lebala or Lagoon.
Thanks for sharing your exciting encounter!
Sep 15th, 2006, 03:53 AM
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to liz young:
the rules at madikwe allow off roading when there is a confirmed sighting.
as for a "good shot" as i have stated, i abandoned my point and shoot piece of poo of a camera at dusk and the other lady in the vehicle never brought one!
i believe our guide was ,ost iterested in obsreving lion behavior as that was his speciality.
as far as i could tell, the 4 people in the other vehicle were also camera-free at that point in the darkness.
shot in our memories, then.
do you assume the land in madikwe is precious? (i suppose all wild land is, right?) it was all quite dry scrub with a few salt areas (i forget what they are called) where vehicles are strictly prohibited.
the rangers are extremely careful about rules there. for example, the fact that four vehicles were allowed to watch this encounter was an exception to their three vehicle rule. in order to allow four, our guide (who controlled the site, being first on scene) cleared it with rangers who are in constant contact with all vehicles. when you see wildlife there, you must obtain permission to aproach from whomever controls the site. only 3 vehicles at a time and a very respectful distance (can't help if the animals move though).
if you have knowledge about the fragile state of madikwe's ecosystem, please share it here, as i would like to learn as much as i can about my favorite (thusfar) game park in south africa!
this, incidentally was in complete contrast to botswana's okavango delta where our guide (native to the area) intentionally drove right over green, living plants and bushes crushing them and snapping them for no discernable reason as the grass tracks were right there next to us. we were surprised and still speak of his disregard for nature, but also figure it is "his" land not ours and he's the professional, not us.
in madikwe, we stuck to roads 95% of the time and only took off for this incident.
but enlighten me as to the source/root of your comment so that i might learn more? thanks!
the rules at madikwe allow off roading when there is a confirmed sighting.
as for a "good shot" as i have stated, i abandoned my point and shoot piece of poo of a camera at dusk and the other lady in the vehicle never brought one!
i believe our guide was ,ost iterested in obsreving lion behavior as that was his speciality.
as far as i could tell, the 4 people in the other vehicle were also camera-free at that point in the darkness.
shot in our memories, then.
do you assume the land in madikwe is precious? (i suppose all wild land is, right?) it was all quite dry scrub with a few salt areas (i forget what they are called) where vehicles are strictly prohibited.
the rangers are extremely careful about rules there. for example, the fact that four vehicles were allowed to watch this encounter was an exception to their three vehicle rule. in order to allow four, our guide (who controlled the site, being first on scene) cleared it with rangers who are in constant contact with all vehicles. when you see wildlife there, you must obtain permission to aproach from whomever controls the site. only 3 vehicles at a time and a very respectful distance (can't help if the animals move though).
if you have knowledge about the fragile state of madikwe's ecosystem, please share it here, as i would like to learn as much as i can about my favorite (thusfar) game park in south africa!
this, incidentally was in complete contrast to botswana's okavango delta where our guide (native to the area) intentionally drove right over green, living plants and bushes crushing them and snapping them for no discernable reason as the grass tracks were right there next to us. we were surprised and still speak of his disregard for nature, but also figure it is "his" land not ours and he's the professional, not us.
in madikwe, we stuck to roads 95% of the time and only took off for this incident.
but enlighten me as to the source/root of your comment so that i might learn more? thanks!
Sep 15th, 2006, 08:36 AM
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Hi Liz,
Let me also provide you with an answer. I recently dined with the GM of Mateya and with another person in the industry who spent 15 years as a guide/manager in the Sabi Sand and I, too, raised concerns over the driving habits of some of the guides that seemingly destroyed trees, plants, etc., while in pursuit of a good sighting.
I received a very satisfactory response that they intentionally target certain non-native species of plants, dead trees, etc. that they would otherwise have to come out and hack down with a machete anyhow. This definitely makes perfect sense and I no longer have hesitation to participate in such off-roading while on game drives.
Let me also provide you with an answer. I recently dined with the GM of Mateya and with another person in the industry who spent 15 years as a guide/manager in the Sabi Sand and I, too, raised concerns over the driving habits of some of the guides that seemingly destroyed trees, plants, etc., while in pursuit of a good sighting.
I received a very satisfactory response that they intentionally target certain non-native species of plants, dead trees, etc. that they would otherwise have to come out and hack down with a machete anyhow. This definitely makes perfect sense and I no longer have hesitation to participate in such off-roading while on game drives.
Sep 15th, 2006, 10:53 AM
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Kerikeri,
Accused? It’s tempting to start teasing you about “boring animals” again, but I will not do that. Remember that I’m just jealous. And not seeing any maned lions in the Mara is quite a unique experience.
You definitely had a non-boring lion experience in Madikwe. I think you should post how you arranged this and other great African experiences with very short notice, as a contrast to all safaris that are arranged years in advance.
Accused? It’s tempting to start teasing you about “boring animals” again, but I will not do that. Remember that I’m just jealous. And not seeing any maned lions in the Mara is quite a unique experience.
You definitely had a non-boring lion experience in Madikwe. I think you should post how you arranged this and other great African experiences with very short notice, as a contrast to all safaris that are arranged years in advance.
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