mwf

Fellow travel experts: Please let me know what you think of the itinerary I've been working on with a travel company. I've lurked on these travel forums for years, learned tons in planning trips around the world, but never actually posted a query. Here goes!

My husband and I are planning our first ever Southern African safari for next summer. We're using miles and will most likely go for 16 days (not counting the international travel days). It's been incredibly difficult to limit ourselves since we're so excited and would like to go everywhere, but this is the current proposal, exact dates and lodges still to be determined although it looks like it will be late August/September:

Fly USA/London/J'Burg/Capetown and stay there for 3 days

Fly to J'Burg and spend night in airport hotel

Fly to Maun, Botswana/fly into the Okavango Delta and spend 3 nights there

Fly to Kasane/drive to Vic Falls, Zimbabwe - 2 nights

Fly to Hwange, Zimbabwe - 3 nights

Fly to Mana Pools, Zimbabwe - 3 nights

Fly Harare/J'Burg/London/USA

Questions: 1. We wanted to experience both Botswana and Zimbabwe as well as Capetown, but wonder if we're trying to do too much since we won't be able to get a good feel for all the different possibilities that the Okavango Delta can provide.

2. 1 night v. 2 in Victoria Falls? There seem to be a number of things we could do including visiting an orphanage and a school that are of interest in addition to visiting the Falls. Opinions? (Note - we're not interested in thrill seeing opportunities like bungee jumping although we might venture onto the back of an elephant)

3. Is there any way around spending a night in the J'Burg airport en route from Capetown to Maun? it seems like such a waste of time and money.

4. We will most likely have one more day to add to this itinerary. Where should it go? We don't want to stay fewer than 3 days at any of the safari lodges so it would be adding a 4th day someplace.

Many thanks!

mwf

pixelpower

My (unsalted) opinion;

1) Cape town on top of this itinerary is a definite no-no! IMHO the trip is already too hectic the way it looks now. I'd chose either country; Botswana or Zim. Both merit an entire holiday to be spent there. Again IMHO, this is a mistake lots of people make; they expect to see more by flying around more, while the truth is; you see less if you travel around more.

2) How about ZERO nights in Vic falls instead of one? That would even be better. Seriously; the falls are an over-commercialized place. You can see the while thing in half a day, and it isn't all that spectacular. If you want to see beautiful falls, travel to the Nordic countries or visit Iguaçu Falls.

3) It IS a waste of time and money. Visit the cape another year. Add the cape point, the wine region, Stellenbosch, Fransshoek, etc... Then add some place with a lot of wildlife like Sanbona or Bushman's Kloof. Go whale watching. Then the garden route and Knysna. Want more real safari days? There's so many reserves around Port Elizabeth; Addo, Shamwari, Amakhela, Lalibela, Pumba, Kwandwe...

Seriously; the west of South Africa has enough to fill a whole vacation ...or two or three. Idem with the east part of South Africa, obviously.

4) Any lodge in prime habitat (ic not like one near the falls or a town or anything) is worth staying an extra day.

B.regs,

J.

stokeygirl

That itinerary doesn't seem to do Botswana justice, and there is quite a bit of flying around which is going to eat up budget.

In Botswana, you are only planning on 3 nights in the Delta. I'd suggest adding a 4 night stop in the Linyanti area and then cutting Mana Pools at the end. You can probably get to Hwange by road transfer from Vic Falls, and road transfer back to Vic Falls at the end to fly to Jo'burg.

Mana Pools is great, but so is the Linyanti and by doing this you would also make your itinerary a bit more "compact" and reduce some of the flying around. If you are keen to try canoeing, you could look at Selinda as your camp in the Linyanti- they offer canoeing as an activity.

stokeygirl

I see pixelpower has been more ruthless than me with your itinerary.

I'd be all for axing Cape Town too- then you could keep Mana Pools and add Linyanti.

christabir

It all depends on the kind of vacation you want to do. I thought our "once in a lifetime" safari would be just that - our only trip to Africa. For my mother, it was. I'm so glad we did too much for her. Cape Town and Vic Falls are great and we are glad we went to both. If this is the one and only Africa vacation, do them. Now we just do safaris, as those places are crossed off the list. We have been back every other year since the first one.

We did Botswana and Timbavati. Much more time in Bots and added Timbavati to possibly see the wildlife not in Bots (rhinos are very rare). It really depends on your expectations, and I'd do either Bots or Zim. Three nights minimum per lodge. One night in Vic Falls is plenty. In Aug/Sept it is a trickle. For SV, I will advise no elephant ride.

Enjoy the planning! No matter what you decide, you're going to love it.

raelond

I also would omit Cape Town, but not the falls. We had two nights at VF in between our trip to Botswana and Zambia and loved the time we had there. We visited a village and a school. We are going to Zimbabwe next August and will overnight in Victoria Falls to see them from the Zim side this time. You will find the camps in Zimbabwe are less expensive than Botswana so that may help you make up your mind.

mwf

Wow! Great information. Thanks for all your replies. I very much hope that we will be able to return for another trip or trips and had considered not going to Capetown on this one, but I don't know that will be possible thanks to considerations of age and health. I will be 65 next summer and my husband will be 79 and although we are in excellent shape, one never knows when that will change so we are trying to go to places that interest us after we've been reading and talking. One source of information has been Mark Nolting's book: "Africa's Top Wildlife Countries."

Originally we were going to just safari in Botswana but after we started reading, we became intrigued with Hwange and Mana Pools. Perhaps this is the wrong forum to post, but we just didn't want to give up Botswana altogether.

Please keep on responding. We haven't decided anything yet! But my husband is interested in the botanical gardens in Capetown since he has an incredible collection himself in Chapel Hill, NC (www.keitharboretum.org/) and we both would like to see Robbens Island. Not interested in wine tours or whale watching...

Thanks again. I love the diversity of opinions.

christabir

If he's really into flowers, and you enjoy them a lot, then you "must" do Namaqualand! And your timing is perfect! Make reservations yesterday for next year. Go on a 1 or two or more night tour. It's a once a year phenomenon in the most prolific biosphere in the world. I think that's when the flamingoes migrate to the area, too. Kirstenbosch will only whet your appetite for more and Namaqualand is "right around the corner".

Here is a four night tour:
http://www.eyesonafrica.net/south-af...d-in-bloom.htm

You can't experience it anywhere else. Cape Mt Zebras and eland could be a bonus. You probably won't see either at any of your other options. So I wouldn't skip Cape Town for your trip! Everybody's idea if a perfect trip is different.

Safari_Craig

You have one of the best possible trips planned and I really like what you have in the works already. BUT – I do have a few concerns and, like some of the other people on this forum, Cape Town is one of them. If you go in June or July you can get some downright nasty weather in Cape Town. You have chosen the best overall time of year for Botswana and Zimbabwe – that is August and September. Even August can be iffy in Cape Town and since you have it up-front perhaps reconsider after reading this post.

Game viewing and the experience in Botswana will be excellent in June-September but June and July will be colder so once again you have the right timing. I have been there in every season. If the floods keep up their record levels from the past few years many of the camps in Botswana will have water issued in June and July making an even stronger argument for August/September travel. But, since you are coupling your trip to Botswana with Zimbabwe then perhaps you are going to the Okavango for the water activities. It is the Okavango that makes Botswana unique among all safari destinations in Africa so if you go to one camp only, then it should be in the Delta (not the Linyanti) IMO. A great camp for a three day stay would be one with mixed water and land activities such as Sandibe, Little Vumbura, Chief’s Camp, or Tubu Tree. These four are owned by various companies. I have been to over 40 safari lodges in Botswana including every one of the camps owned by Wilderness Safaris, all but two of the &Beyond cams and many more including Orient Express, Kwando, etc. I have been to the current location of most of the Desert & Delta camps along with the Savute Marsh area but this was before the current camps were built. Each ecosystem is different and many of the camps have a specific strength to offer depending on the time of year and needs of the traveler. For example, Tubu Tree has excellent leopard and water activities year round but the dry land is limited even into July. The flood plains at Tubu offer excellent grazing and birding in January.

The game viewing in Hwange improves throughout the dry season peaking in September right before the October heat truly sets in. I think Hwange is an excellent addition to your trip. I have been to all the permanent lodges in the Hwange in the past year. Wilderness Safaris owns Little Makalolo, Davisons, and Makalolo. African Bush Camps own Somalisa. Both these operators have lodges in Mana Pools so you can make a circuit out of them for cost savings (read what I write about ABC in Mana Pools later). I also like the Hide in Hwange and the water hole is VERY close to camp and the rooms. The Hide is jointly marketing with Bumi Hills so you could get some cost savings if you added this to your trip. Mostly because of having only 12 guests my favorite so far is Little Makalolo but I do like the luxury at Somalisa (the tents are over the top for Zimbabwe) and the water hole at the Hide as mentioned above. Only the Wilderness Safaris camps have a private concession and the rest of the permanent lodges do some of the game drives in the national park. I was there in August and you will see self drive people and campers in the national park (if that bothers you) when you are not at a Wilderness Camp. I ran into a huge (100+) mountain biking group driving in the park. The Hwange has more mammal species than any national park in Africa with 108 species seen at least sometimes. This is because the land is the transition between the Kalahari and the Mopane Woodlands of northern Zimbabwe. You get a very high animal diversity but a lower animal density as you cannot go off road. With this said, the herds of buffalo and elephants are MASSIVE (75+ each day) on my various visits.

Mana Pools and specifically Ruckomechi had the highest animal density of any place I have ever been in Southern Africa except Mombo and MalaMala. There was never a time in my three day stay at Ruckomechi this year that an elephant was not in eye site including the first time I opened the tent door in the morning and during all meals. The animals were layered! What I mean is we would see warthog close by, elephant behind the warthog, buffalo behind them, then impala in the background. Amazing! I also had a chance to see all the other permanent lodges and seasonal tented camps that exist in the park. Mark Nolting sells a lot of Vundu Camp which, along with Kango and Ruckomechi, is the only permanent lodge in the park. He is a really good resource if you want to go to Vundu and they even talk about him on their web site. Given your age, I am not sure if Vundu would be the best option since it is very much focused on canoeing. If you don’t like it on day one that could be a problem. I think Ruckomechi is best geared to the first time safari person. The camp offers walks, motor boats, canoes, and land rovers. You can do only land rover if you want. Ruckomechi would be the best place to add a fourth night. The ABC camp in Mana Pools is called Kanga and it is 25km from the Zambezi River. I think it is best to be down on the flood plains or at Ruckomechi during high season. ABC is developing a program down at the River for next year.

The one HUGE thing missing from you plan is Rhino. It is highly unlikely you will see Rhino on your trip as currently planned. I have sent over 150 clients to Zimbabwe this season on safari (June-September) and many more than that to Vic Falls as a stand-alone. Not one saw a rhino. They don’t exist in Mana Pools and are rare in Hwange. There are only 54 in the wild in Botswana and they are also rare. So – please don’t go to Cape Town first. Go on a three day safari in the Sabi Sands and get the big five out of the way. That way, you can enjoy your time in Botswana and Zimbabwe more as you won’t be worried about looking for leopards and rhino. You will have already seen them in the Sabi Sands. I suggest Elephant Plains ($300 per person per night range), MalaMala ($650), or Lion Sands River Lodge. Mark is very familiar with all these properties.

Have a good one.

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond

mwf

Oh Christabir, my husband is drooling. Capetown stays in and the extra day plus another one if we can manage it will go to seeing the flowers. Thank you for telling me about something we knew nothing about! I gather one can even do a day trip as well as overnight and longer ones.

Craig - thank you so much for your long post and all your advice and information. I really appreciate your suggestions about the various camps. I'm not big on canoeing so that was helpful about one camp in Mana Pools. However, we will not be disappointed if we don't see a rhino - we're in it for the total experience so I don't think we can come up with an additional 3 days and $$$s for the S.African camp. Given that, and the fact that we will probably spend more rather than less time in CT, would you still suggest we move it to the end of the trip rather than the beginning - around August 24?

christabir

I would try to time your trip around the fynbos blooming (and FF availability). There's no guarantee on timing, but I'd find out what the peak was the last few years and go with that. A couple of weeks one way or the other makes little difference in wildlife viewing.

I'm so glad you mentioned your husband's interest in flowers! I believe you are the first to mention it. Happy to help. There are also some good seafood restaurants in the area. Anything on the water and crowded is good. Enjoy!

Safari_Craig

One of most bio-diverse areas on earth for plants is the area around Hermanus. Check out this other option if you really want to see flowers: http://www.grootbos.com/en/home/. My sister has been working on her Master’s degree from the University of Cape Town for many years studying plants. She owns a farm in South Africa and raises indigenous plant species. At one of her lectures here in the US I heard her say that the soil in the area around Grootbos contains more unique plant seeds than any other place on earth per cubic meter. You just need the right weather to bring them out!

Flowers are much more likely to be blooming in early September than mid-August so, yes, I suggest putting Cape Town at the end. Perhaps head up into the Cederburg Mountains as well? http://www.bushmanskloof.co.za/

Chritabir – you could reach out to Grootbos to get the Fynbos answer?

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond

raelond

Craig all the information you provide on the forum is very much appreciated. Do you think a private vehicle would be a good idea at Ruckomechi for a day in order to see areas outside of the concession? Did you have the same guide for your three day stay there, as I have heard that the guides change from game drive to game drive. Why don't you think Kanga Camp would be a good option in the dry season as there is water there all year round. Have you stayed there?

Safari_Craig

Hi Raelond, in fareness to ABC I did not stay at Kanga. I was up there for about four hours in July but not overnight. We were supposed to stay but they were doing construction of some beautiful new rooms. I think Kanga is a good option if you include some experience down by the River which they were busy arranging when I was there. The animals congregate at the River and on the historic flood plains in big numbers in the dry season. Kanga does have a pumped water hole in front of the lodge but I only observed a few animals there and none at all on the 25km drive up to the lodge.

Typically a guest at any camp, and for sure at Ruckomechi, is going to have the same guide for a three day stay. You may change guides if your group wants to do different things or if, lets say, you want to canoe or hike and the other want to game drive. I am not sure how a normal client at Ruckomechi would get outside their concession as Wilderness discourages use of private vehicles for one day and does not offer this activity. They want you to use the PV for the entire stay. You may be able to get a third party guide to pick you up and arrange the necessary permits.

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond

stokeygirl

I stayed at Ruckomechi for 3 nights and definitely didn't get the same guide for every activity.

In a camp that size offering 3 different activities (walking, driving and motor boat) logistically it's just not going to be possible unless all the guests happen to be there in convenient groups of 4 or 6. People were arriving and departing at different times and as a solo traveller, I wasn't with the same group of guests for more than a couple of activities.

Also, it seemed that not all guides did all activities- there seemed to be particular guides that specialised in walking, for example.

In my stay I did the whole range of activities- one afternoon canoeing, one afternoon boat trip and one afternoon drive, 2 morning walks and the last morning was an extended boat transfer. For afternoon water activities, we transferred to a vehicle afterwards for a night drive before dinner.

If you do mostly one activity you might get the same guide, but if you mix it up like I did, it's unlikely. Especially if you're a solo traveller or a couple.

Safari_Craig

Good point Stokeygirl. Let me clarify that was my experience at Ruckomechi as well. I was there with my wife and kids. You will most likely have the same guide for Land Rover activities but different guides for other activities. Most of it has to do with qualifications. In Zimbabwe, being a canoe guide or hiking guide is a different qualification and guiding license. Even after our motor boat trip, our land rover guide who had been with us the entire time picked us up.

I have never switched land rover guides during a 2-3 day stay at a camp on any of my 29 trips to Africa. In Botswana, you will have different guides (polers) on the Mokorro canoe.

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond

mwf

OK. I've switched Capetown to the end, added the extra day there which allows us to do a one day tour and tiptoe into Namaqualand. It also means that we'll be awake while we're in Capetown and not jetlagged, and that the one day/night at the Jo'burg airport hotel is probably a wise decision before we connect with our flight into the Delta. It feels like a better use of our time/money staying there when we first arrive then staying there in the middle of the trip.

It does mean we need to fly from Harare to Capetown at the end of the safari portion and it looks like there are no direct flights so that will take up a good portion of the day, but so be it. Perhaps there will still be time for a morning drive before we head back to civilization.

Now to nail down the final flights (and some hotels) - we have one ticket on hold for the flights to Africa, but am still working on getting seats going home. And as for camps, I like what I've read about Tubu Tree Camp, Little Makololo, and Rukomechi. I hope they still have space.

Craig, I looked up the website for Grootbos. It was gorgeous! But I was grateful that it was completely booked for the month of September, because we're already over budget at this point thanks to all those flights, and that extra day that got tucked in. If we can do a day trip, we'll both be happy... for now
[I am going to start buying lottery tickets.]

I may have some more questions later, but I think I'm set at the moment unless someone sees some problems with this new itinerary and the changes. You've all been so helpful. Many thanks!

christabir

Do you have to fly to Harare? I haven't been to Zim, but I think I've read of flights that go from Zim camps to Jnb? Or Vic Falls that has direct flights to CT?

Safari_Craig

Hi MWF and Christabir,

If your last camp in Zimbabwe is Ruckomechi it is best to leave the county via Harare/HRE. First of all, the charter flight from Ruckomechi to Harare is 55-65 minutes vs 2h15m back to VFA. The charter flight to HRE is also about $200 cheaper vs VFA. Also, since there are 10+ flights per day from HRE to Jo'burg there are more options and they are cheaper. All the flights from VFA to JNB leave around noon so you have to leave Ruckomechi at 800am (or so) to get to VFA in time for them.

There is no direct flight to Cape Town from VFA but there is one from Livingstone/LVI Zambia.

Lots of good reasons to fly out of HRE (time, money).

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond

braaiseason

Kirstenbosch botanical gardens has concerts on Sunday afternoon's around 4pm, there is also another botanical gardens on the R44 between Gordons Bay & Betty's Bay called Harold Porter & also a little further on on the outskirts of Kleinmond is a very big protea farm.