colleensm

My husband and I are in the initial stages of planning a special holiday next year in August.
Our ultimate aim to to go on an African safari to see as much varied wildlife as possible.
We are totally confused as to what destination we should really be focusing on in order to make any other decisions.
Are there any dos or don'ts or things to consider than aren't necessarily posted in the glossy brochures.

Can anyone recommend any companies with an all-round package? What area should we focus on? The travel agent suggested Kenya, but my concern is will that be crowded??

We don't mind a couple of nights in tents but do to health problems we dont want to spend too long in them and the same goes with walking, we are not able to trek distances.

We could team it up with a beach holiday but this is not our priority, so what do you think?
This is a dream holiday, so we want to get it right, so would love to hear from other peoples experiences.

We could have up to 3 weeks in time .

Many thanks

Pumbavu

Only certain parts of Kenya are crowded. I find the Mara a bit busy. But other parks now. Tsavo we only saw a couple of other vans. I understand the roads are a bit better in S.A.. but potholes are part of the fun!! The nice thing about Kenya is you can get some very varied areas from almost rainforest through to desert in the north.

A chance to break the trip up at the coast can be good, as Safari can be quite tiring. I would get someone to draw up an itinery based on your requirements, if you email me I can give you a contact who may be able to help.

(Mombassa you can still enjoy wildlife... a trip on the dolphin dhow, a night at Shimba Hills, Bamburi Nature Trail (not a trek but a small park you can wander around))

Duane

Colleen,
We had the same questions a few months ago. We are going in July 2007 for a dream vacation. What I found helpful was to go read the trip reports and to read as many postings on this board as I saw relevant. At least then I had an idea of what questions to ask because otherwise I was lost. I quickly figured out I wanted to go to Tanzania, so I really only read Tanzania trip reports and posting about Tanzania. OK, I did read some others, but just for pure enjoyment, not for fact finding

For instance, by reading the trip reports, I got a good idea of the tour companies that do a good job, so I could narrow that down. By reading other's experiences in places I was interested in, I could get a feel for if that really fit my wife and myself, especially the different camps, tents versus lodges. Just reading the itineraries seemed to help a lot, especially others comments as to what order people were visiting, what alternate camps they might want to pick, etc. I'd suggest reading a few of the trip reports and posts so you can narrow down your options.

But, even after all that, I was still somewhat confused, but at least in a more informed way, if you know what I mean It took a little while for all this to start clicking in because there are so many different camps, parks, villages, etc. But, after reading quite a few posts and reports, it started to make enough sense that I could come back and ask more pointed questions.

I hope you are as excited as we are. I can't wait, but unfortunately have to until July 07.
Enjoy,
Duane

PredatorBiologist

There are so many wonderful choices and your budget will likely be the most important factor.

Just based on your initial post I would suggest you consider South Africa -- the Kruger National Park area and surrounding concessions like the Sabi Sand have the highest diversity of mammals in all of Africa and the country has the best medical facilities and infrastructure if that is a concern. With 3 weeks there is also beach areas and lovely Cape Town and wine country to vary your experiences. It is also easy to combine some time in Botswana or Zambia if you want a few days in more remote wilderness in combination with South Africa.

jasher

Hello,

I'd second the above recommendation - South Africa has both excellent game-viewing and excellent medical facilities. The lodges are the most luxurious on Africa, and have the most in the way of modern comforts like air-conditioning and plunge pools. Personally, I have a medical condition which means I don't cope well with extreme heat, so the A/C has been key to enjoying some of my safaris.

It's easy to add on a stay in Mozambique if you want some beach time, where you can also go diving and snorkeling. Depending on when you travel, you could combine safari and beach time at one reserve, Phinda in KwaZuluNatal:

http://www.phinda.com

The other advantage to travelling to SA in August is that it will be low season (even though it's the best time to see animals) so you will get great value for money.

I'm not sure what your medical issues are, but you may want to reconsider staying in a tented camp. The tents you will encounter on safari are nothing like the tents you may have stayed in before -- these are more like canvas houses than tents. In Botswana, they are often raised on wooden decks and may have thatched roofs, and have fans and mosquito-proof netting. I've stayed in tented camps and really enjoyed being able to hear the animals outside. It's an entirely different feeling to being in a lodge.

On a three week trip, you could split your time between SA and Botswana or Zambia, which would make a wonderful trip. There would be no worries about crowds in Botswana or Zambia or the private reserves in South Africa!

You can see some sample accommodation on my Safari Photo Album -- all pictures were taken by people on this forum.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasher/sets

The photos are arranged alphabetically by country, region, and camp. South Africa is abbreviated as 'SA'. If you wanted to take a look at a tented camp in SA, take a look at my photos of Ngala Tented Camp. There are also photos of city hotels/guesthouses near the end of the album.

The roads are smooth and easy to drive (unlike in some less developed countries) which makes them much friendlier to those of us with bad backs.

Cheers,
Julian

colleensm

Thanks you all for your generous responses.
I now have something firm to think about. Having looked at the pictures this has been most helpful regarding the tents!

I have to go away for a few days now so I will have time to think and will be back for further discussions/decisions next week

Many thanks Colleen

stakerk

If August, I would recommend Kenya because of the Migration (of the Wildebeest) in the Masai Mara. We just got back on Saturday. We stayed at Larsen's Camp in the Samburu and loved the game and the place. Stayed at Little Governors in the Mara and enjoyed being on the marsh. We then flew to Lamu Island and very much enjoyed relaxing at Kizingo. If you have three weeks I would probably throw in some additional places such as Lake Nakuru between Samburu in the north and the Mara in the south.

For tour operators, we went with Southern Cross. However, I would suggest also Eastern and Southern, also African Serendipity. We shopped around and these were very competitive. I would book as soon as you can because August is very busy there.

Kevin from California

Kavey

Dear Colleen

I second Julian's recommendation of South Africa. It's amazing just how much this one single country has to offer travellers at all points along the budget scale!

If you are willing to give a ROUGH idea of budget and duration it will make it easier to ensure that recommendations fit you more accurately.

Also, are there any particular animals/ birds that you're keenest to see?

Kavey

Apologies, I just noted that you'd already specified up to 3 weeks for duration. Does that include international flights or is it time on the ground at your destination?

atravelynn

Colleensm,

What you are about to read is not deja vu, it's just my previous comments ended up getting posted before I was done.

So here is what I wanted to write.

Colleensm,

<u>Do's and don'ts:</u> Most Fodorites prefer travel companies that do only Africa. Stakerk listed some good ones for East Africa. Also Good Earth and Roy's.

<u>All around package:</u>For a package that includes international airfare you can try Africa Adventure, which has set itineraries or custom trips, all including air.

Also including airfare is International Expeditions, which focuses on nature in general and not just Africa.

There were some nice reports on Globus with set group departures, air included. Overseas Adventure Travel has good prices for group travel, including international air. Globus and OAT are not Africa specialists and may not tailor an East Africa itinerary for the best places at the best times.

<u>As much varied wildlife as possible:</u> I think Kenya would have a slight advantage and here is why.

In the northern part are additional species not usually found elsewhere. By including Kenya's Samburu or other nearby locations you can see the Grevy Zebra, Somali Ostrich, Oryx, Gerenuk, and Reticulated Giraffe. Samburu is also an excellent spot for the elusive leopard. Some Samburu lodges put out bait for leopards in the evening to increase the odds of seeing them. You could choose to stay at or avoid these lodges.

At Lake Nakuru in Kenya, and other nearby lakes, you can see flocks of flamingos. If you added the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, there are also flamingos. Nakuru also has a unique giraffe species and a different kind of waterbuck. There are rhinos there too, a hard-to-spot species, and it has been getting a reputation for leopoards as well. (I did not see leopards or the newly introduced rhino when I was there.)

If you stay in the Aberdare region of Kenya there are the beautiful black and white Colobus monkeys, and also the occasional Giant Forest Hog.

Rhinos can be tough to see and even tougher for good views and photos, except in South Africa, and a few parks in Kenya. Lewa Downs in Kenya is probably the best place in Africa for black and white rhino. Other parks near Lewa Downs are also excellent for rhino and Nakuru is good.

You can even see chimps without trekking in Kenya. At Sweetwaters there is a Jane Goodall Sanctuary for rescued chimps. These are not wild chimps, but they live in open natural surroundings and may someday be reintroduced to the wild. I've been to other Jane Goodall chimp sancturaries, but not this one, and have been impressed.

Finally, in August you will see huge herds of wildebeest and zebra in the Maasai Mara in Kenya. The sheer quantity of animals cannot be matched anywhere, with the closest big numbers being big buffalo herds in parts of Botswana and Southern Tanzania. (And the fruit bat migration in Zambia.)

<u>Area to focus on</u>: If you are in Kenya and have 3 weeks, you can easily include Tanzania. The Ngorongoro Crater is spectacular and easy to get to. In August the bulk of the migration should be in the Maasai Mara in Kenya, but the Serengeti in Tanzania could still be hopping. Recent reports from this year indicate the migration is late so big herds are still in Tanzania as of August. With 3 weeks you could include both the Serengeti and the Mara. I did that on my first safari in late July which also lasted 3 weeks.

<u>crowds</u> Kenya/Tanzania are more crowded than Botswana, but not as expensive. If you have a well planned itinerary and avoid large lodges, you can escape the crowds. Even at large lodges, with a private vehicle you can usually get away. There will likely be some moments of mob activity, but they will not be the majority of your trip. Fodorites can help tweak your itinerary to put you in more remote settings.

<u>not many tent nights:</u> Easily done in Kenya and Tanzania, as well as South Africa. Not so easily done in Botswana. But <b>your</b> idea of tent and the typical luxury tented camps found in Africa may be worlds apart. Luxury tented camping, with ensuite actual toilets and running water in wash basins, are not roughing it by any means.

<u>trekking</u>: The only trek you would need to do on any traditional game viewing safari is to and from your tent and into and out of the vehicle. You specifically have to set up any walking/hiking activities.

<u>beach:</u> If that is not a priority, then I'd put your time into safari. But Kenya/Tanzania are easy destinations to add a beach, something I've never done when I can spend my time in the bush.

I'd go for Kenya/Tanzania since you are going to be traveling in August. But South Africa and Botswana would also work. August is ideal in Botswana, though it can be windy as I can attest, having returned a few days ago. You'd have good game in South Africa and not pay high season prices. Kenya, Tanzania, and Botswana are all in high season in August.

Patty

Just to add to atravelynn's comments, Solio in Kenya has a large population of black and white rhinos and more than likely, you won't see a single other vehicle there. Solio is easily combined with the Aberdares, another place where you're not likely to see many other vehicles on game drives. Most visitors seem to only stay at one of the waterhole viewing lodges in the Aberdraes and don't go on any game drives which I think is a shame because the park is beautiful and so entirely different from other parts of Kenya. And then there are Meru, Shaba, Tsavo, and Laikipia which are all uncrowded.

bix6

Colleensm.I have just arranged a safari for August 2007, Samburu and Kenya. Having requested many quotes I returned to the agentwho we have used 6 times. Very thorough and has NEVER let us down.try them Safari Consultants in the U.k. I am sure you will find them extremly helpful. Might even meet you en route!! Good luck

Bill_H

&quot;Rhinos can be tough to see and even tougher for good views and photos, except in South Africa, and a few parks in Kenya.&quot;

Just to add one other spot, Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania ... there's a decent population of black rhino in the crater though not everyone gets to see them. In two days last January we saw one silhouetted at a distance, then a mother with calf that bluff-charged our jeep, then a large male near the Tokitok picnic area that was pretty mellow. We were able to photograph these last three pretty well (close range, good light).

Bill

jasher

Hello Colleen,

Your original post mentioned that you wanted to know about any other factors you should consider in your planning -- here are a few which might be of interest:

1) TRANSPORTATION: Do you prefer to fly or drive? In Southern Africa (South Africa, Botswana, Zambia) you usually fly from camp to camp, which offers a wonderful aerial view of the lanscape but can be problematic if you're not a fan of small planes. In East Africa, you often spend a lot of time on the road, which is great for seeing 'life on the ground' but can be murder on your back -- and after spending most of the day in the vehicle you may find that the last thing you want to do is go on a game drive to see animals. It's possible to fly in East Africa but it's not the norm.

2). VEHICLES: Vehicles in Southern Africa are open-sided and usually open-topped as well - wonderful for photography. Vehicles in East Africa are usually closed, with 'pop-top' roofs where you can stick your head out to see the animals. Personally, I vastly prefer open vehicles as I find the enclosed ones confining. NB It is possible to find open vehicles in East Africa but you have to choose your camps carefully.

3). VARIETY (WILDLIFE): You've mentioned that you want to see a wide variety of animals -- for the maximum in variation I'd recommend Botswana. No where else can you go from a wetland delta (the Okavango) to the desert (the Kalahari) and see the animals unique to each.

4) VARIETY (ACTIVITIES): Do you want to have the option for activities other than game drives? Botswana offers mokoro (dugout canoe) excursions, boating, fishing, and bush walks (which can be as long or as short as you like). Zambia offers canoeing, fishing, and bush walks.

5) WEATHER: August is a great time of year to travel to Africa. It's the dry season so the bush has died back and the animals are easier to see. You'll have warm days and cool nights. If you don't care for heat, however, make sure your lodge or camp has a pool and fans in the rooms. Many of the tented camps have pools and fans!

6) PHOTOGRAPHY: Are you or your husband keen photographers? If so, you might want to consider booking a private vehicle to maximise your photogrpahic opportunities.

7) COMFORT: How much comfort do you want/need? Most safari lodges and camps are very comfortable, but there is a spectrum -- if you need flush toilets, electricity in your room, and hot running water you should check that your camps have these things. Note that if you want A/C, South Africa is the best choice.

Cheers,
Julian

stakerk

Colleen:

Have not been to South Africa so cannot compare. However, we just came back on Saturday from Kenya. Game vehicles at camps were all open sided and open roofed. Also, we flew from Nairobi to Samburu to Lamu Island (via Nairobi) and back to Nairobi and it was great (although obviously more expensive than driving from place to place.) Also, we had a great game walk in the Samburu (could have done same in the Mara).

You cannot go wrong listening to the advice you get on this great forum.

Good luck.

Kevin

atravelynn

Kevin,
Welcome back and I hope a trip report is forthcoming.

Since Coleen had a concern about crowds, care to comment on that?

Bill,
Glad you had good luck with rhinos in the crater. I had wonderful sightings the first trip and a glimpse the second.
So I would not count on the crater producing good rhino views.

Bix6,
Samburu and the Mara would be a lovely combination. What accommodations and how long?

stakerk

Colleen: Was pretty rare for number of folk in the Mara to be a problem. As a matter of fact was helpful. If you saw more than 2 vehicles in the distance together you knew most likely there was something there worth seeing. For example, we were surprised to return to a spot we had been to just 15-20 minutes earlier with just some Maribou storks there but could see three game vehicles. We pulled up just as a lion behind a mound of dirt grabbed and killed a wildebeest.

Lynn: I was wondering if I was going to be able to slip by and take a few weeks preparing my trip report without anyone noticing. Nice of you to ask. Will hopefully start soon. Trying to upload photos presently to Kodak without any luck yet. Also, am trying to edit down nine video tapes.

colleensm

Just wanted to say your advice has been extremely helpful.

I have tried to look at the websites for some of the tour operators suggested but am only able to find Good Earth.

I think it would be helpful to add that I am based in the UK.
Many thanks
Colleen

jasher

Hello,

It shouldn't matter where you're based, as so much is done online nowadays. There are many companies speciaising in tailor-made safaris that could help you plan your trip.

Right now it probably seems a bit vague, so it might help to read some trip reports. The Southern Africa Trip Report Index can be found on this thread:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34858382

Reports are arranged chronologically -- you might want to start with the most recent ones, or to skim those which cover the countries you're most interested in.

Cheers,
Julian

atravelynn

In the UK, I've had both travelers and a camp manager tell me that Sunvil (not sure of spelling) is a good agent. One traveler is from the US but uses Sunvil anyway.