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Lima has long been a popular destination among foodies, but its dining scene is now hotter than ever. Three of the city's eateries were listed in the World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2017; nine were included in the list of 50 Best Restaurants in Latin America; and the World Travel Awards has named Peru the World's Leading Culinary Destination for five years in a row. When Peru's celebrity chefs Gastón Acurio and Astrid Gutsche moved their flagship Astrid & Gastón to a refurbished colonial mansion called Casa Moreyra, they inaugurated it with a week of activities attended by some of the world's top chefs and restaurant critics, and the reservation book was already filled for the next four months. Luckily, there are other world-class dining options in Lima, and the midranged restaurants are pretty impressive, too.
Dating from 1905, this venerable Lima institution has served up ham sandwiches and pisco sours to Peru's presidents for over a century. Every inch of the decor—the worn wooden bar, the old black-and-white photos, the well-stocked saloon shelves and cabinets—oozes history. Try the butifarra (marinated pork with zarza criolla, or pickled onions, on a homemade roll), or, if you're famished, the bistec con tacu-tacu (steak with pan-fried rice and beans).
Long lines outside this wildly popular chain, whose name translates to "Seven Soups," are an indicator of just how avid limeños are to slurp up its hearty broths. Those craving something more filling than the rotating soups of the day can also try the pollo a la brasa (chargrilled chicken), pastas, and other Peruvian classics. Believe the hype: this place is worth the wait.
At long last, an Indian restaurant has opened in Lima that's worthy of the name. True, this Miraflores hole-in-the-wall is tiny, with barely space enough to seat eight people, but the authenticity of the masalas and biryanis makes it worth the effort of squeezing in here. The tandoor (clay oven) turns out light and puffy breads, and there's a respectable complement of vegetarian plates. Peruvians tend to be militantly nationalistic about their country's cuisine; that they've taken so enthusiastically to this outsider is a testament to the chefs' talents.
Chalkboard menus, shelves piled to the ceiling with locally made wines and piscos, a worn wooden bar, and even a hand-cranked telephone give this venerable institution—a Lima mainstay since 1880—its nostalgic charm. The place serves delicious ham sandwiches smothered in zarza criolla and chilcanos made with pisco bottled in the factory next door, but in recent years has also expanded its menu to include a range of pastas and meat dishes.
This open-air eatery in Parque Intihuatana is a great spot to grab a crepe, coffee, or fresh juice. Sit at one of the tables that line the back of the park for a sweeping ocean view. There are other branches around the city, including one at Parque del Amor.
The green-and-white-striped awning ensures that you won't miss this café, which is a favorite among young couples and harried parents with children in tow. Although its menu includes pastas, sandwiches, and economical lunch specials, most people come here for one thing: ice cream. The more than 50 varieties of gelato include sassy tropical flavors like tamarind, coco (coconut), and the local fruits chirimoya and lucuma.
This is a good spot for a break after visiting the nearby archaeological site of Huaca Pucllana.
Born in a run-down barrio in central Lima in 1960, this chain of sandwich shops has exploded in recent years to become a Peruvian institution. It's a business that focuses all its energies on a single goal: making first-rate chicharrón (fried pork) and turkey sandwiches slathered with zarza criolla. The result is a shining example of Peruvians' genius for turning humble ingredients into culinary art. Look for other locations in Miraflores and Barranco.
This artisanal bakery is a perfect spot for brunch, serving an array of organic breads and pastries, along with sandwiches, quiches, and salads, and no shortage of vegetarian options. You can also choose from a range of wines and cocktails in the evening. The bakery has another branch in Miraflores, but it's a bit far from many hotels.
With its flagstone path and leafy lucuma tree dappling a quiet patio with shade, this green café is an oasis. The gourmet teas and coffees, artisanal sandwiches, and fruity milk shakes rejuvenate even the most worn-out traveler.
Peru's sandwiches haven't yet attained the iconic status of Mexico's tortas or Louisiana's po' boys, but the revolution is coming. You can see what the fuss is about at this wildly successful Lima chain, which has branches all over the city, and whose Parque Kennedy outpost is inevitably thronged by nighttime partygoers looking to chow down. Here it pays to stick with the classics: chicharrón or lechón a la leña (wood-fired ham) both come heaped with zarza criolla, and the accompanying fries made with huayra potatoes are a revelation. Makes you wonder how the McDonald's up the street stays open.
