Get FREE email communications from Fodor's Travel, covering must-see travel destinations, expert trip planning advice, and travel inspiration to fuel your passion.
Menus cover the bases of international cuisines, but don't miss the local bounty—seafood delivered directly from the Pacific Ocean. One local favorite is caldillo de congrio, the hearty fish stew celebrated by poet Pablo Neruda in his "Oda al Caldillo de Congrio." (The lines of the poem are, in fact, the recipe.) A pisco sour—a cocktail of grape brandy, egg white, and lemon juice—is a great aperitif for any meal, especially when accompanied by a plate of machas a la parmesana, small razor clams served au gratin, baked in lemon juice or with white wine, butter, and grated cheese.
Tempted to try heartier Chilean fare? Pull up a stool at one of the counters at Vega Central and enjoy a traditional pastel de choclo, pie filled with ground beef, chicken, olives, and a boiled egg, topped with mashed corn. Craving seafood? Head to the Mercado Central, where fresh fish is brought in each morning. Want a memorable meal? Trendy restaurants are opening every day in neighborhoods like Bellavista, where hip Santiaguinos come to check out the latest hot spots.
In the neighborhood of Vitacura, a 20- to 30-minute taxi ride from the city center, a complex of restaurants called Borde Río attracts an upscale crowd, but other reservations-only restaurants worth a look are on Alonso de Córdova and Nueva Costanera. El Golf, an area including Avenida El Bosque Norte and Avenida Isidora Goyenechea in Las Condes, has numerous restaurants and cafés. The emphasis is on creative cuisine, so familiar favorites are given a Chilean twist. This is one of the few neighborhoods where you can stroll between restaurants until you find exactly what you want.
Santiaguinos dine a little later than you might expect. Most fancy restaurants don't open for lunch until 1. (You may startle the cleaning staff if you rattle the doors at noon.) Dinner begins at 7:30 or 8, although most places don't get crowded until after 9. Many eateries close for a few hours before dinner and on Sunday night. People do dress smartly for dinner, but a coat and tie are rarely necessary. Avoid shorts, sneakers, and athletic gear, and you should be fine in most places.
French fare is on the menu at this spacious national heritage converted castle with a turret room and gorgeous terrace. At lunch, sample the set brasserie menu with seafood tartare and duck, or for something lighter and also less expensive, try a turkey club or Mediterranean sandwich on focaccia with fresh Chilean mozzarella. It attracts a well-heeled clientele, so you'll want to make a reservation.
With table lamps casting a warm glow and walls covered with black-and-white photographs, this little eatery could be in any small town in France. The menu of the day, written on a blackboard, might tempt you with such dishes as a traditional coq au vin that's cooked to perfection. Homesick Brits come here to reminisce over freshly baked scones and refreshing cups of tea. The staff won't give you the evil eye for lingering over a cup of coffee on the shady garden patio.
Although at first glance this appears to be a rather somber bistro, nothing could be further from the truth. The service is friendly and the Provence-influenced food---such as the mouthwatering steak au poivre and beef Bourguignon---is first-rate.
This unassuming French restaurant with a slightly haphazard decor has service as friendly as the food is good. Join the regulars at the wooden bar for a steaming bowl of onion soup and beef Bourguignon with French fries (made from real potatoes) in winter, or a glass of wine at one of the pavement tables in summer.
Sign up for Travel Tips & News
Thank you for your interest!
