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Churrasco (slow-grilled and -roasted meat), one of the most famous foods of Brazil, originated in Rio Grande do Sul. But the cuisine is eclectic here in cowboy country, and rice and beans sit on southern tables beside Italian and German dishes, thanks to the South's many European immigrants. Look for barreado, a dish from coastal Paraná made by stewing beef, bacon, potatoes, and spices for hours in a clay pot made airtight with moistened manioc flour. Café colonial is the elaborate 5 pm tea—with breads, pies, and German kuchen—popular among the Germans in the South.
The prix-fixe combo at this small but busy restaurant includes such Lebanese staples as kibbe, esfiha (small minced meat pies), tabouleh, hummus, baba ganoush, fried eggplant, pita bread, rice with lentils, spinach, and falafel. These and other options can also be ordered à la carte. Large windows and a colorful decor add to the allure.
The city's finest and largest churrascaria does a killer rodizio (all-you-can-eat meat buffet). The picanha (beef rump cap) stands out among the dozens of meat choices, but pork, lamb, and chicken find their way onto the metal skewers they use to grill the meat. Never fear, vegetarians—the salad bar is also well stocked. The dining room is bright and cheerful, and bow-tied waiters serve your food.
One of the trendiest cafés in town, Porto serves several types of coffee, plus drinks, sandwiches, pies, and pastries. Try the espetinho (little skewer of meats and vegetables) combined with a glass of Chardonnay or the house cappuccino. All coffee is Brazil's finest, from the Mogiana region in São Paulo.
This Italian cantina–style restaurant has an excellent prix-fixe salad-and-soup buffet at dinner. Surefire soup choices include the cappelletti—best topped with grated Parmesan cheese—and the Serrano (a local vegetable soup). If this light fare doesn't suit you, opt for the grilled beef directly from the grill.
One of the best-known establishments for Italian cuisine in Curitiba, Madalosso is also possibly the largest restaurant in Brazil: the hangarlike building seats 4,600 diners. The prix-fixe menu includes a huge selection of pastas and sauces, chicken dishes, and salads. The gnocchi and lasagna are particularly noteworthy. The restaurant keeps a large wine cellar, with many renowned Brazilian and international wines, as well as a house wine, made for the restaurant in the vineyards of Rio Grande do Sul.
This is an open, sleek, and comfortable space for terrific pizzas, freshly made pastas, and grilled meats. The brick ovens are impressive, and the dishes are fresh and tasty. Pizzas start at R$130 and mains at R$90. The bar offers a good selection of well-made and rather strong cocktails, and the wine list is impressive.
The city's most popular German bar–restaurant, Schwarzwald has carved a name for itself with great draft beer, including some imported brands and local bocks (German-style dark beers). Highly recommended entrées are the house version of eisbein (pig's leg served with mashed potatoes), kassler (beef fillet with a cream sauce), and duck with red cabbage. The restaurant is somewhat small and packed with tables, but there's plenty of space on the sidewalk in front.
If you're not traveling as far as Salvador and the state of Bahia, you can at least check out its flavors at this busy restaurant. It specializes in northeastern fare like moqueca (a rich seafood stew made with coconut milk and palm oil). The version here is unusual for mixing prawns with local river fish. Spicy pan-fried sole and salmon are lighter options. The flavors aren't quite so subtle at the all-you-can-eat seafood buffets served several times a week. At R$80, it certainly pulls in crowds.
