2 Best Sights in The Northwest, Argentina

If you can endure a harrowing five-hour, 73-km (45-mile) ride east from Humahuaca on an unpaved cliffside road, you'll be rewarded with one of Argentina's most stunning settings. (Take the bus from Humahuaca rather than driving yourself. You really have to know the road, as the bus drivers do, to negotiate it safely.) This cobblestoned town, which clings to sheer rock, has become an increasingly popular stop despite its small size. It has just a few accommodations including Hotel Iruya ( 3887/442–3536) and Hostal Milmahuasi ( 3887/619–1591), but many villagers offer rooms for rent. The busiest times to visit are at Easter and during the first and second weekends in October, when the village celebrates its festival; it also comes to life for patron saint San Isidro Labrador on May 15. There are some good hikes from Iruya to even more remote villages such as San Isidro, an 8-km (five-mile) three-hour trek through the mountains. Avian fans should undertake a condor-spotting expedition with a local guide such as Iruya Excursiones on Plaza de la Iglesia ( 3885/155–475–076). For more information and guide recommendations, visit the Tourist Office on Güemes ( 3887/155–094–799) or visit  www.iruyaonline.com.

The first 50 km (30 miles) of the direct road to Salta (or the last stretch if you don't come via Cachi and Molinos) is known as the Gorge of the Shells, and breathtaking scenery makes it an attraction in its own right. Various rock formations have been eroded into wildly different shapes that have been nicknamed the Windows, the Castles, the Frog, the Friar—each name seems fanciful, that is until the road winds around the corner and you're actually confronted by the formation itself. The climax is the Amphitheater, sometimes used as a venue for proper orchestras, thanks to its outstanding natural acoustics; wandering minstrels offer impromptu performances.  If you've rented a car, keep valuables out of view, as thieves have become more prevalent at the Amphitheater.