La Fonda del Tío
The specialty at this lively family eatery is the milanesa napolitana, a gut-busting plate of breaded steak topped with ham, mozzarella, and tomato sauce; tack on an order of papas a la provenzal (garlic-and-parsley fries) and you can easily feed two. The pastas and trucha (trout) are equally recommendable. Go early for both lunch and dinner: lines here can sometimes stretch down the block.