Fodor's Expert Review The County Line

Part of a local chain, The County Line has a few too many amenities to be considered a classic Central Texas barbecue joint. Chairs instead of bargain-basement picnic setups, little loaves of multigrain bread on tables, and functional air-conditioning make things downright civilized, but anyone seeking a traditional BBQ meal in bucolic surroundings can find solace in the slow-smoked ribs—huge slabs of beef and tender pork—that can be ordered in family-style options, replete with generous sides of coleslaw, potato salad, and beans.