Mägo
After several years as a leading chef in San Francisco, Mark Liberman crossed the Bay Bridge to open this deeply personal restaurant that channels his Colombian heritage in a contemporary way. The dining room's tasting menu from the large open kitchen almost always starts with an arepa course (like cornmeal pancakes) and then weaves its way through a series of intricate compositions that are never overly elaborate and often lean on produce from nearby farms. Liberman is particularly gifted at making less frequently seen cuts of meat and types of fish (for example sweetbreads, monkfish, or sturgeon) absolutely thrilling.