Fodor's Expert Review Queue de Cheval
Editor's Note: This location is no longer in operation.
The white-aproned chefs toiling away under the 20-foot-wide copper canopy look more like pagan priests engaged in some arcane ritual than cooks grilling slabs of dry-aged, prime beef on a huge open grill. The meat is sold by the pound, and all accompaniments are extra, so the crowd is pretty much limited to people whose wallets are as thick as the steaks—say, 1½ to 3½ inches. Fat cats get the 20-ounce center rib eye, which has been dry aged for 40 days. Herringbone brick walls and wide windows create an atmosphere that's half stable, half château. Outside, cigar smoking is permitted, if not encouraged. Free valet parking daily after 5:30 pm.
