7 Best Sights in Coyoacán, Mexico City

One of the prettiest and most historic streets in the city, this narrow tree-lined thoroughfare paved with stone is a delightful destination for a short stroll or (if you're feeling a bit more ambitious) as the most scenic way to walk between the historic centers of Coyoacán and San Ángel. From Jardín Centenario, it runs west for just under 2 km (a little over a mile), ending at Avendia Universidad beside the tiny and historic San Antonio de Padua Chapel. Along the route you'll pass grand 19th-century mansions hidden behind, or towering over, colorfully painted walls. The surrounding neighborhood has been home to various celebrities over the years, from Dolores del Río, Luis Buñuel, and Octavio Paz to, more recently, actor Diego Luna, singer Lila Downs, and Like Water for Chocolate novelist Laura Esquivel. The sidewalks become narrower the farther west you walk, and ancient tree roots have in places pushed up and broken the pavement to an almost comical degree (it can feel more like bouldering than walking in a couple of spots).

The plaza surrounding 16th-century Santa Catarina Chapel is especially picturesque, hung with strings of colorful papel picado and dotted with stone benches and pretty trees. Across the street, the shaded, peaceful grounds of Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles are also lovely to walk around, and you may witness a dance or crafts class taking place in one of the cultural center's workshops. Up and down Sosa, and especially closer to Jardín Centenario, you'll pass by inviting cafés and boutiques. There are a few attractions of note on or near this street, such as Fonoteca Nacional and Museo Nacional de la Acuarela Alfredo Guati Rojo. The narrow lanes that intersect with Francisco Sosa are also quite pretty, especially the allegedly haunted and oft-photographed Callejon Aguacate, an alley lined with ivy and flowering shrubs that's reached via a quick turn south onto Calle Tata Vasco. To reach San Ángel, cross Universidad where Francisco Sosa ends and continue west on Calle Arenal and Avenida de la Paz (past Parque de la Bombilla); without stops, it's about a one-hour stroll from Jardín Centenario to San Ángel's Plaza del Carmen.

On the western end of picturesque Avenida Francisco Sosa, this grand mansion with a dramatic facade was built in the Moorish and Andulusian style in the 18th century and eventually became the home of Mexican Nobel poet Octavio Paz, who lived here in the late 1990s until his death in 1998. In 2008, the building—known as Casa Alvarado—became the home of Mexico's national sound archive. Today, visitors can explore the archives and, in the listening rooms, hear digitized recordings from the archive's immense collection, which includes Frida Kahlo, Álvaro Obregón, and dozens of other historical figures. There's also an extensive library of books related to music and sound, and you can saunter through the gracious gardens and grounds, which are a perfect spot to relax with a book or rest your feet for a bit. Fonoteca also hosts a rich array of lectures, concerts, and other events—check the online calendar for details.

These infectiously festive plazas function as Coyoacán's zócalo and are barely separated from each other by a narrow street with slow-moving traffic. The Jardín, with its shady trees, an oft-photographed fountain with two snarling coyotes, and a fringe of lively patio bars and restaurants (of varying quality), is the more commercial of the two but also arguably prettier. Note the the often-overlooked concrete obelisk with a tile fountain and four coyote gargoyles. A wander through here is even more enjoyable while savoring a dish of traditional Mexican ice cream (mamey, leche quemada [burnt milk], and elote are among the unique flavors) from Tepoznieves, which is located on the Francisco Sosa side of Jardín Centenario. 

The larger Plaza Hidalgo hosts children's fairs, music and dance performances, clowns, bubble-blowers, and cotton candy and balloon sellers, especially on weekends and holidays. It's anchored by an ornate old bandstand and the impressive Parroquia de San Juan Bautista, one of the first churches to be built in New Spain. Each afternoon of September 15, before the crowds become suffocating at nightfall, these delightful plazas are perhaps the best place in the capital to enjoy Independence Day celebrations. More recently, they've become a must-visit for Día de Muertos in early November, with throngs of people of all ages cavorting about in costume and face paint. Both plazas are filled with landscaped courtyards, sculptures, and dozens of park benches, and they're a memorable destination for people-watching. You'll see passersby of all ages and backgrounds, from multigenerational families and young couples of all sexual orientations cuddling, kissing, and holding hands to tourists from all over the world, and locals walking their dogs (who are often gussied up in sweaters and bows). Of the streets emanating from the plazas, Felipe Carrillo Puerto—which runs due south—has the best selection of high-quality shops and restaurants, including branches of popular Mexico City businesses like Churrería El Moro, Boicot coffeehouse, and Gandhi bookstore.  There are public bathrooms (for a small fee) in the lovely, landscaped courtyard beside the Parroquia.  

From the house's original entrance on Calle Morelos (around the corner from the current museum entrance) with its forbidding high walls and turrets for armed guards, you get a sense of just how precarious life was for its final resident, León Trotsky, one of the most important figures of the Russian Revolution. Living in exile, Trotsky moved his family here in 1939 at the behest of his friends Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo (who resided in Casa Azul, just a few blocks away). Less than a year later, he would be assassinated. The house and adjoining exhibit galleries make for an eerily fascinating glimpse of Trotsky's later life and death. As you walk through the house, which looks largely as it did the day of his death, you'll see bullet holes still in the walls from the first assassination attempt, in which the muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros was implicated. The rooms include his bedroom, his wife's study, the dining room and kitchen, and the study where assassin Ramón Mercader (a man of many aliases) drove a pickax into Trotsky's head. On his desk, cluttered with writing paraphernalia and an article he was revising in Russian, the calendar is open to that fateful day: August 20, 1940.

Casa Azul (Blue House), where the iconic artist was born in 1907 (not 1910, as she wanted people to believe) and died 47 years later, is both museum and shrine. Kahlo's astounding vitality and originality are reflected in the house itself, from the giant papier-mâché skeletons outside and the retablos (small religious paintings on tin) on the staircase to the gloriously decorated kitchen and the bric-a-brac in her bedroom. The house displays relatively few of Kahlo's original paintings, but you can admire her early sketches, diary entries, tiny outfits, and wheelchair at her easel, plus her four-poster bed fitted with a mirror above, and in a separate exhibit space across the garden, a collection of her dresses presented in the context of her physical disabilities. The relaxing garden also has a small but excellent gift shop and café.

The museum has become astoundingly popular in recent years and carefully limits ticket sales to avoid the house becoming too crowded at any given time. Tickets can only be purchased online. You can buy them from the museum website, but these tend to sell out quickly. If this happens, you can try buying tickets from a third-party tour site, such as  Tiqets.com,  GetYourGuide.com, or  Viator.com. You'll pay a surcharge, but these sites sometimes have tickets available on shorter notice, and they also sell tickets many weeks in advance, which the museum's official site does not. For all the hassle of buying tickets, it's worth the effort to visit this very special place, and once you're inside, you can explore at a leisurely pace (and be glad the museum is never allowed to become too crowded).

Surrounded by a park with mature trees and greenery, cannons, and a towering statue of General Anaya, this fascinating museum in San Diego Churubusco—a pleasant 15-minute walk east of Coyoacán's historic center—may just be the city's best museum you've never heard of. It's devoted to relating the surprisingly lengthy and storied history of Mexico's wars, dating from the 1810–21 War of Independence to the Mexican Revolution a century later. The exceptionally well-executed exhibits within the building's many galleries provide an impressive explanation of how exactly Mexico became, well, Mexico. But you don't need to be a history buff to appreciate the building, which occupies the former Nuestra Señora de los Angeles de Churubusco monastery, a glorious structure built in the late 1600s and converted into an ad-hoc military fort in 1847 during the Mexican-American War. In the exhibits, history is told through displays of uniforms, guns, flags, paintings, and other artifacts, including a diorama of the Battle of Churubusco and photos of Pershing's 1914 punitive expedition in search of the elusive Pancho Villa. The museum also contains a remarkable collection of original frescoes, religious paintings, and ex-votos from the building's period as a monastery. In addition, there's a tranquil community garden as well as galleries that host rotating shows. Part of the fun of touring the museum is observing the building's well-preserved sloping floors, beamed ceilings, fine tile work, and ancient arches.

Officially this 96-acre swath of greenery is a nursery that was developed in 1913 to grow tree seedlings to be transplanted to the forests in and around Mexico City, but today Viveros functions for visitors as a glorious park (it has, in fact, been an official national park since 1938). A 2.2-km (1.4-mile) gravel walking and jogging trail laces the perimeter of the property, and a series of narrow trails crisscross the park, each one lined with specimen trees that are planted around the city: acacia, sweet gum, jacaranda, cedar, and so on. There are five entrances around the park: the southwest one is closest to Viveros metro, but the northeast one is better if you're walking over from elsewhere in Coyoacán or from the Coyoacán metro stop. Each entrance is staffed by security, and although admission is free, the gates shut to the public promptly at 6 pm and don't reopen until the next morning at 6 am. This is one of the most enjoyable (and popular) spots in the city for jogging, but throughout Viveros you'll also find benches, rows of ornamental plants, hundreds of colorful and friendly black and gray squirrels, swatches of grass to set up picnic blankets, and a central plaza that's often the site of small groups informally practicing fencing, yoga, dancing, and the like. Unless you glimpse the unfortunately bland Torre Mítikah, which was completed in 2021 on the neighborhood's northern border, you can easily imagine that you're miles from urban civilization while relaxing in this enchanting urban sanctuary. Near the northeast entrance, an actual nursery sells plants, flowers, and garden statuary and gifts of every imaginable kind.