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Aegean cuisine is in many ways different from Turkish food elsewhere. The shared Turkish and Greek culture of the region's past, the climate and soil suitable for growing a wide range of vegetables, including tasty local greens and herbs, and the prevalence of olive trees and olive oil production have helped the region develop a much more varied way of eating that is healthier than in other Turkish regions. Olive oil replaces butter, and fish, rather than meat, is the star on most menus. The class of dishes generally called zeytinya?l? (literally "with olive oil") mostly comes from this region; these are usually comprised of tomatoes, onions, and other vegetables cooked in olive oil and served cold. Vegetarians will be in heaven.
There’s no grilled fish on the menu at this cozy, family-run restaurant—indeed, there’s no menu, and most of the time only one entrée is available: lamb cooked with thyme. But chef and owner Emine Elik serves some of Cunda's most delicious and inventive mezes, with options changing daily but always featuring selections for both vegetarians and seafood eaters. Seating is in a small dining room adjacent to the open kitchen or on the sidewalk and patio in warm weather.
Across from the Muradiye Tombs, this soup kitchen built by Sultan Murat II in the 15th century to help feed the poor now houses a restaurant serving Ottoman and Turkish cuisine in wonderfully atmospheric surroundings. Hünkar beğendi (tender lamb on a bed of grilled-eggplant puree) literally means "the Sultan liked it," and it's impossible not to. The place is also known for its meat dishes as well as its Ottoman desserts. The terrace is pleasant, but dine indoors and you'll feel like you're eating in the sultan's quarters. No alcohol is served.
At this Çanakkale institution established in 1940, take in views across the Dardanelles from the rooftop terrace as you enjoy such seafood mezes as grilled octopus in vinegar or sardines wrapped in vine leaves. Non-seafood mezes like fried eggplant with cheese are equally tasty. Fish prices are per kilogram and are not listed on the menu, so be sure to ask before ordering. The same goes for dishes that might show up on the table without you having asked for them. Service can be hit or miss.
The best thing about this restaurant is its setting in a 150-year-old Greek building that's surrounded by estate-like grounds in a tranquil part of town. The food is nothing spectacular, but the large outdoor terrace area has views of the Acropolis and Red Basilica, making it a romantic spot for an evening meal. Good, if unsurprising, mezes, kebabs (only meat, no chicken), and steaks are on the menu, it's licensed to serve alcohol, and prices are more reasonable than the somewhat formal interior and serious service may imply.
The place to be on a busy Bursa weekend evening, this irrepressible meyhane is a local institution, serving a delectable selection of fish fresh from the open-air market on the corner. In the early 1930s, a veteran of the War of Independence nicknamed "Arab" Şükrü opened a fish restaurant here on Sakarya Caddesi, a narrow side street just south of Altıparmak Caddesi; now the whole area carries his name, and his descendants run both this venue and a competing establishment just opposite. The entire street is a lively and popular dining spot, with affable musicians wandering around the many tables.
In the heart of town, Arzu has inexpensive, simple, and satisfying Turkish fare that is popular with locals, especially at lunchtime. The pide, lahmacun, and lentil soup are particularly tasty, and the staff is friendly. The restaurant's interior is a bit cramped, but there are more tables on the sidewalk outside—perfect for watching the goings-on in town.
There's no menu at this friendly, family-run spot in Behramkale's tiny main square: Just pick from the selection of mezes on display (don't miss the crunchy, garlicky greens called deniz börülcesi), and let one of the waiters tell you which meat dishes are available that day. The covered terrace looks over the village and down to the sea—it's a wonderful spot to watch the sun set—while a few seats out front let you watch the comings and goings on the square. Alcohol is served.
The most popular and probably the most expensive of the waterfront restaurants on Cunda serves a selection of mezes and prepared seafood that is a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach. Many options are original creations based on Greek and Turkish cuisine—squid in saffron sauce, sole in yogurt, akuvadis in whiskey sauce, and cured fish pastırma are among the unusual specialties. There's no menu, so ask to see the mezes and fish before ordering, and inquire about prices—be prepared to pay a lot.
Alongside a 16th-century hammam in downtown Bergama, this casual room serves around 20 dishes—stews, casseroles, grilled meats, and soups (fewer options are available at dinnertime). Try the kadın budu köfte (ground meat mixed with rice and parsley and lightly fried in egg batter) and the kemalpaşa, a traditional sweet served with kaymak (clotted cream) and tahini, for dessert. No alcohol is served. Restrooms are outside.
With excellent food, views of Cunda Island, and a prime location on the Ayvalık waterfront, this restaurant is worth walking down narrow backstreets to find. The mezes, made with Aegean herbs and greens, include some truly local specialties, such as deniz mücver (fried mussel patties) or sole marinated in a lemony mustard sauce. Both the mezes and fish are on display for easy choosing, and service is attentive.
In the heart of Ayvalık, just north of Saatli Cami, this eatery serves up filling lunches to hardworking street traders; it's tiny but almost always full, so you may have to share one of the dozen or so tables. The Turkish home cooking—rice, beans, eggplant with minced meat, and lamb stew—is delicious, making this the perfect place for lunch when wandering the historic part of the town. A red 1970s rotary telephone adds some character.
Cheery and bright, this casual, two-floor eatery near the ferry dock serves delicious pide (Turkish pizza), topped with minced meat, sausage, cheese, or any combination of them. There's also a wide variety of kebabs, döner, and other grilled meats, as well as the thin flatbread lahmacun, topped with minced meat, and a couple of traditional desserts.
A few minutes' walk from the Acropolis, this casual eatery with stone tables and colorful flowerpots is a welcome stop, especially on a hot day, on the way back from seeing the ruins. The ayran (a salty yogurt drink) is thirst quenching and a great restorative. Try the mantı (Turkish ravioli in garlicky yogurt sauce), the tavuk şiş (chicken kebab), or the gözleme, thin Turkish pastry filled with minced meat, mashed potato, or cheese and cooked on a flat griddle.
Eager patrons line up outside this little white-and-blue house near the bazaar to enjoy heaping servings of meat, dished up by a grandson of Mehmet İskenderoğlu, who invented the İskender kebap back in 1867 (he's pictured on the wall, opposite Atatürk). The kebab is tender, the portions filling, and the photograph-lined dining rooms quaint. The kitchen closes by 6:30 during the week and 8 on weekends, so go early.
This popular spot just opposite the Ayasofya serves soups, beans with sliced Turkish pastrami and rice, and typical home-style dishes. The işkembe (tripe soup) is probably best only for those who are into experimenting—you'll either hate it or love it. The atmosphere is a notch above most eateries of this type. The place opens early, at 5 am, but don't plan on a late dinner—it closes at 8 pm.
Turks love their köfte (meatballs), and almost every city in the country makes a claim to fame based on its own way of preparing them, including İznik. Locals fill the large, canteen-type tables of this casual bilevel eatery with both indoor and deck seating at almost all times of the day to enjoy İzmir köfte, served with tomatoes, peppers, onions, and a mildly spicy red pepper sauce. Other grilled meats are also available, with yogurt and salads as optional sides. This is not a place for vegetarians.
Newer and shinier options on the peninsula have failed to tempt the loyal clientele away from this decades-old favorite, where large windows and a small covered patio draped in vines overlook a small park next to the sea. The fare includes a wide variety of mezes, along with fish and grilled meat dishes; all are fresh and tasty. The casserole of tiny shrimp is especially good. Reservations are essential during war anniversaries.
The location, in the covered market by Ulu Cami, is charming, and köfte (meatballs) is the thing to order, served with grilled peppers and tomatoes. Among the salad options, piyaz (bean salad with vinegar) accompanies köfte best. The soups are delicious, and there are also grilled meat options. The restaurant has the same architectural features as the hans, with brick and stone walls and two domes in the ceilings painted in floral patterns. The place closes at 8 pm.
On the corner of Hamdibey and Değirmenlik streets, Sardalye is the place to go for fish if you are looking for quality food in a dramatically less fancy—and expensive—atmosphere than Canakkele's waterfront meyhanes. The simple menu consists of a rotation of fish options that are fried, grilled, or served in a sandwich. A seat at the bar is the perfect place to enjoy a meal and watch the action on the street, though if you're coming for lunch, be prepared to wait for a bit.
In a century-old former house on Fetvane Sokak, Sardunya serves home-style Turkish cooking at very reasonable prices. There’s no menu; you simply choose several items from the counter displaying that day’s meat and vegetable dishes, which might include meatballs with potatoes, eggplant in a garlicky yogurt sauce, green beans cooked in olive oil, or saffron rice. The interior rooms are pleasantly decorated, and the tiny back courtyard evokes an Aegean island thanks to its overhead vines, white and turquoise wooden tables and chairs, and whitewashed walls with street-scene murals.
This local favorite, with seating inside and outside of a traditional Greek house, is packed nearly every night. Despite the crowds, the staff is attentive, kind, and happy to provide recommendations for Tik Mustafa’s rather impressive selection of meze and zeytinyağlı—cold appetizers served in olive oil. While the fish is fresh and can be prepared in a number of ways, saving room for a main course may prove challenging considering the exceptionally delicious appetizers.
