16 Best Sights in The Central and Southern Aegean Coast, Turkey

The ruin of Ephesus, once the most important Greco-Roman city of the eastern Mediterranean, is one of the best preserved ancient sites in the world. Today, modern travelers can trace the splendor and collapse of ancient civilizations in Ephesus's spectacular landscape of ruined temples, theaters, and colonnaded streets. There are two entrances to the site, which is on a hill: one at the top of the site (Üst Kapı, or Upper Gate) and one at the bottom (Alt Kapı, or Lower Gate—this is where to find the public dolmuş stop). The main avenue is about a mile long but there are a number of intriguing detours, so a minimum visit of two hours can easily stretch to four. Buy water and a light snack in Selçuk town before you head for Ephesus. In summer, when shade is at a premium, a hat is a very good idea. Highlights of the site include the spectacular theater, backed by the western slope of Mt. Pion, which once seated an estimated 25,000 to 40,000 spectators; the beautiful two-story Library of Celsus; and the terrace houses, the multi-storied houses of the nobility, with terraces and courtyards (which have a separate entrance fee).

The sprawling, well-maintained site of Hierapolis is lovely proof of how long the magical springs of Pamukkale have drawn eager travelers and pilgrims to partake of the waters' supposed healing powers. The ruins that can be seen today date from the time of the Roman Empire, but there are references to a settlement here as far back as the 5th century BC. Because the ruins are spread over nearly 3 km (2 miles), prepare for some walking—or hop on the mini-van shuttle, which runs between the North Gate and the Sacred Pool every 30 minutes. The main points of interest are well marked along the path and include a vast and beautiful necropolis (cemetery) with more than 1,000 cut-stone sarcophagi spilling all the way down to the base of the hill; the ruins of a Temple of Apollo and a bulky Byzantine church; a monumental fountain known as the Nymphaeum, just north of the Apollo Temple; and the Ploutonion, built over a cave that leaks poisonous fumes from the bowels of the earth, so deadly that the Romans revered and feared it as a portal to the Underworld. Below the theater, near the Sacred Pool, the stone building that enclosed Hierapolis's public baths is now The Hierapolis (Pamukkale) Archaeological Museum (Müzesi) with a fine display of impressive carved sarcophagi and marble reliefs, statues, and funerary stelae found at the site.

Though most of what you see today dates from the 1st and 2nd century AD, archaeological evidence indicates that the local dedication to Aphrodite follows a long history of veneration of pre-Hellenic goddesses, such as the Anatolian mother goddess and the Babylonian god Ishtar. Only about half of the site has been excavated. It's much less crowded than Ephesus, and enough remains to conjure the ancient city. Once you reach the pretty, rural site, it is a short walk from the parking area to the main gate. Then choose the circuit to follow to reach all notable buildings. The lovely Tetrapylon gateway has four rows of columns and some of the best, remaining friezes. Behind it, the vast Temple of Aphrodite was built in the 1st century BC on the model of the great temples at Ephesus and later transformed into a basilica church. Its gate and many of its columns are still standing. At the far point of the area is the impressive, well-preserved 1st century AD stadium which could seat up to 30,000 spectators to watch footraces, boxing, and wrestling matches. You'll also find the once-magnificent ruined residence, the fine Odeon (also known as the Bouleuterion, or Council House); an intimate, semicircular concert hall and public meeting room; towering public baths; and the sprawling agora. The 7,000 white-marble seats of the city's theater, built into the side of a small hill, are simply dazzling on a bright day. The adjacent School of Philosophy has a colonnaded courtyard with chambers lining both sides.

In the museum, just before the ticket booth, Aphrodisias bursts back into life in vivid friezes and sculptures that seem almost about to draw breath. The museum's collection includes dozens of impressive statues and reliefs from the site, including Aphrodite herself, with excellent labeling (particularly in the grand display in the Sevgi Gönül Salonu) explaining their significance and symbolism.

One of the Turkey's best preserved ancient cities, UNESCO World Heritage Site, and target of most cruises' disembarking passengers, Bergama, lies just 40 km (25 miles) east down a well-trodden tourist path. Known during Greek and Roman times as Pergamon, the city was renowned for its arts and medicine. Its lofty status is confirmed by a treasure trove of ruins including temples, palaces, shops, a library, and a 10,000-seat theater, the steepest of its age. In the center of the new town, many artifacts are on display at the archaeology museum.

Step through the impressive, pre-Justinianic marble portal (its huge blocks likely plundered from the nearby Temple of Artemis) to approach the basilica, which sits below the crenelated walls of the Fortress of Ayasuluk, likely covering the site of the most ancient settlement in Selçuk. In the 6th century AD, after earthquakes destroyed the modest church believed to mark the grave of St. John the Evangelist, Byzantine Emperor Justinian and his wife Theodora commanded that a grand marble basilica be erected over the site on Ayasuluk Hill, its 11 domes grand enough to rival the imperial pair's other legendary building project, Aya Sofya. The basilica's barrel-vaulted roof collapsed after another long-ago earthquake, but the ruined church is still an incredibly evocative sight, with its labyrinth of halls and marble courtyards, and occasional mosaic fragments. Both the basilica and the fortress, the work of Byzantine, Seljuk, and Ottoman builders, provide stunning views of the Plain of Ephesus and the İsa Bey Mosque. Come by in the early morning or late afternoon when there are rarely crowds; if arriving later in the day, be sure to visit the fortress first---it closes earlier than the basilica area.

Construction of the magnificent 5,000-seat ancient theater began during the 4th century BC reign of King Mausolus, back when Bodrum was known as Halicarnassus of Caria. The Hellenistic theater was used and updated through the Roman era, and remains one of the ancient city's best-preserved monuments; restored in recent times, it is again used for concerts and other performances for up to 3,000 seats. The view of Bodrum and the Aegean sea is breathtaking from this high, hillside vantage point, though the outlook is marred by the loud, busy highway that runs alongside the theater.

According to the legend attached to the Cave of the Seven Sleepers (and immortalized in a poem by Goethe), seven young Christian men hid in a cave to avoid persecution by the Romans in the 3rd century AD. They fell into a sleep that lasted 200 years, waking only after the Byzantine Empire had made Christianity the official state religion. When they died, they were buried here, and a large church and monastery complex was built over them. The site has unfortunately been closed off due to the collapse of much of the cave but it's still interesting to peek through the fence at the ruins or look down at them from the adjacent hillside.

Didyma's Temple of Apollo is as grand in scale as the Parthenon—measuring 623 feet by 167 feet—and has 124 well-preserved columns, some still supporting their architraves. Started in 300 BC and under construction for nearly five centuries, the temple was never completed, and some of the columns remain unfluted. The oracle here rivaled the one at Delphi, and beneath the courtyard is a network of underground corridors used by temple priests for their oracular consultations. The corridor walls would throw the oracle's voice into deep and ghostly echoes, which the priests would interpret. The tradition of seeking advice from a sacred oracle here probably started long before the arrival of the Greeks, who in all likelihood converted an older Anatolian cult based at the site into their own religion. The Greek oracle had a good track record, and at the birth of Alexander the Great (356 BC) predicted that he would be victorious over the Persians, that his general Seleucus would later become king, and that Trajan would become an emperor. Around AD 385, the popularity of the oracle dwindled with the rise of Christianity. The temple was later excavated by French and German archaeologists, and its statues are long gone, hauled back to England by Sir Charles Newton in 1858. Fragments of bas-reliefs on display by the entrance to the site include a gigantic head of Medusa (twin of the one in Istanbul's underground cistern, across from Hagia Sophia) and a small statue of Poseidon and his wife, Amphitrite. You can rent a combined Miletus and Didyma audio guide for 220 TL.

On a hill overlooking the white travertines of Pamukkale about 10 km (6 miles) to the north, the ruins of the ancient city of Laodicea on the Lycus are perfect for an atmospheric ramble down colonnaded streets, or (with care) down the steep slopes of two newly restored but still lovely ancient theaters. The extent of the recent excavations and restructuring of some of the mosaics and temples is revealing an astoundingly large city. Founded in the 3rd century BC, Laodicea passed into Pergamene, then Roman hands, and was a prosperous trading city, known for its black wool. Luxurious public buildings, including baths and a temple to an unknown divinity, testify to its wealth. Roman Laodicea's relatively large Jewish population (in the thousands) likely contributed to the early adoption of Christianity in the city, and the basilica, with its extensive geometric mosaics, was one of the "Seven Churches of Asia" in the Book of Revelation, making it a particularly poignant site for biblical history.  You can join a tour or catch a Denizli-bound dolmuş from Pamukkale center. (The dolmuş drops you off on the main road about a 10-minute walk away from the archaeological site.)

Little remains of the extravagant white-marble tomb of King Mausolos, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World—and the source of the word mausoleum. During the 4th century, Bodrum (then called Halicarnassus) was governed by King Mausolus. Upon his death in 353 BC, Queen Artemisia, his wife and sister, ordered the construction of the great white-marble tomb. At almost 150 feet in height, it must have been quite a sight—a towering rectangular base topped by Ionic columns and friezes of spectacular relief sculpture, surmounted by a pyramidal roof, and crowned with a massive statue of Mausolus and Artemisia, riding a chariot into eternity. The Mausoleum stood for over a millennium, but the 15th-century Knights of St. John plundered its stones to build the Petronium, while 19th-century Brits carted many of the surviving sculptures off to the British Museum. The Admission price is relatively high for what little you'll see, but it does offer a rare opportunity to reflect on how a Wonder of the World has been reduced to fallen masonry and broken columns. The site also contains a bare but interesting earlier underground burial chamber and a small room with models of how it might have been.

The Miletus archaeological site is sprawled out along a desolate plain, and laced with well-marked trails. The parking lot is right outside the city's most magnificent building—the Great Theater, a remarkably intact 15,000-seat, freestanding amphitheater built by the Ionians and maintained by the Romans. The fabulous vomitoria, huge vaulted passages leading to the seats, have the feel of a modern sporting arena. Climb to the top of the theater for a look at the walls of the defensive fortress built atop it by the Byzantines, and a view across the ancient city. To see the rest of the ruins, follow the dirt track down from the right of the theater. A row of buildings marks what was once a broad processional avenue. The series begins with the Delphinion, a sanctuary of Apollo; a stoa (colonnaded porch) with several reerected Ionic columns; the foundations and remaining walls and arches of a Roman bath and gymnasium; and the first story of the Nymphaeum, all that remains of the once highly ornate three-story structure, resembling the Library of Celsus at Ephesus, that once distributed water to the rest of the city.

A three-minute drive outside the gates of the site, the small Milet Müzesi presents interesting artifacts from the site and the surrounding area with panache. Their bright displays will help you conjure a vision of ancient Miletus and its world. Ask your tour guide in advance if you can make at least a short stop here. If driving, ask the guards to point you in the right direction as you exit the Miletus archaeological site.

The stones of Myndos Gate and the visible 1.5 km (1 mile) stretch of the Halicarnassus City Wall stand as remnants of the era of King Mausolus who built Halicarnassus into a city from 337 BC. Thanks to recent excavations, visitors can walk alongside the wall and admire the views over Bodrum town, the bays, and the hills. It's best to walk very early in summer with your water bottle, or in cooler seasons, and take a hat to protect yourself from the direct sun exposure. Start from the top end, opposite the Salmakis Taxi stand, to end at the lowest point at the Myndos Gate.

On a spectacular perch high above Bodrum, the little-visited ruins of the ancient city of Pedasa date back some 2,500 years, when members of the Leleg civilization built a temple to the goddess Athena here. The site, parts of which are still under excavation, has an acropolis and a necropolis in addition to the temple—and the sweeping views. The archaeological site is located along a new cross-peninsula trekking route, the Leleg Yolu (Leleges Way) that will eventually include 88 km (55 miles) of marked paths. A scenic hike of around 6 or 7 km (4 miles) leads from the side of the motorway in Torba, a short dolmuş ride from Bodrum city center, to Pedasa; the trailhead is a bit tricky to find, but the rest is well-marked. From Pedasa, it’s about 3 km (2 miles) down a paved road to the town of Konacık, which while overdeveloped and unlovely, offers two good reasons to stop by: a hearty and well-priced meal at the popular lunchtime spot Kısmet, and coffee afterwards in the lush gardens of Zai Bodrum, a beautifully designed and art-bedecked library and cultural center.

Spectacularly sited, the remains of Priene are on the top a steep hill above the flat valley of the Büyük Menderes Nehri. First excavated by British archaeologists in 1868–69, the site is smaller than Ephesus and far quieter and less grandiose. One of the most prominent ruins is the Temple of Athena, the work of Pytheos, architect of the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) and the design was repeatedly copied at other sites in the Greek empire. Alexander apparently chipped in on construction costs. Between the columns, look on the marble floor for a small circle, crisscrossed with lines like a pizza—a secret symbol of Ionia's ancient Christians. Walk north and then east along the track that leads to the well-preserved little theater, sheltered on all sides by pine trees. Enter through the stage door into the orchestra section and note the five front-row VIP seats, carved thrones with lions' feet. If you scramble up a steep cliff known as Samsun Dağı (behind the theater and to your left as you face the seats), you will find the sparse remains of the Sanctuary of Demeter, goddess of the harvest; only a few remnants of the columns and walls remain, as well as a big hole through which blood of sacrificial victims was poured as a gift to the deities of the underworld. Since few people make it up here, it is an incredibly peaceful spot with a terrific view over Priene and the plains. Beyond are the remnants of a Hellenistic fortress. (Check safety conditions before you climb.)

Today a lone column towering over a scattering of fallen stones in a marshy lowland on the Selçuk–Ephesus road is all that remains of a temple that was once four times larger than the Parthenon in Athens, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Fragments of the temple are on display at İsa Bey Mosque. Begun in the 7th century BC, greatly expanded by the wealthy Lydian king Croesus, and redone in marble in the 6th century BC, the temple was torched by a disgruntled worshipper in 356 BC. Rebuilt by Alexander the Great, it was captured by Goths in AD 263 and later stripped for materials to build Istanbul's Aya Sofya and Selçuk's St. John Basilica. As goddess of the hunt and wild creatures, Artemis might well approve of the temple's new inhabitants: lizards, frogs, storks, and dozens of other birds. The temple is an easy 10-minute walk along a tree-lined road from Selçuk center, and more evocative if you visit it on your own.

The Agora of Smyrna was the Roman city's administrative and commercial center; if it looks decidedly unimpressive from the entrance, that's because the best-preserved bit is underground—the basilica basement, separated into four galleries covered by dozens of stone arches. Alas, much of the rest of the site has been closed off for excavations, though there are still some other ruins to satisfy classical history buffs, and an interesting collection of Ottoman gravestones and Roman capitals near the entrance of the grassy, open site, surrounded by ancient columns and brick foundations. There is decent signage in English.