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Every corner of Spain champions its culinary identity, but San Sebastián's refined fare is in a league of its own. Many of the city's restaurants and pintxos spots are in the parte vieja, on the east end of the bay beyond the elegant casa consistorial (city hall) and formal Alderdi Eder gardens. The building that now houses city hall opened as a casino in 1887; after gambling was outlawed early in the 20th century, the town council moved here from the Plaza de la Constitución, the parte vieja's main square.
On the western side of the bay, this promontory is a must-visit. You can walk, drive up, or take the funicular (around €5 round-trip), with departures every 15 minutes. From the top, you get a bird's-eye view of San Sebastián's gardens, beaches, parks, tree-lined boulevards, and Belle Époque buildings. There's also a small amusement park.
In Hernani, a 10-minute drive south of San Sebastián (close to both Martín Berasategui's restaurant in nearby Lasarte and the cider houses of the Astigarraga neighborhood, like Sidrería Petritegi), the Eduardo Chillida Sculpture Garden and Museum, in a 16th-century farmhouse, got a face-lift after years of neglect and reopened in 2019. It is a treat for anyone interested in contemporary art. The indoor-outdoor restaurant on the premises punches above its weight.
For a stroll through and under some 6,000 marine animals—ranging from tiger sharks to sea turtles, with one participative pool where kids are encouraged to touch and try to pick up fish—the aquarium is a great rainy-day activity. The illustrated history of Basque whaling and boatbuilding is also fascinating.
This 19th-century neo-Gothic cathedral boasts the tallest church spire in the province. Peek inside to see the beautiful stained-glass windows.
Just in from the harbor, in the shadow of Monte Urgull, is this baroque church with a stunning carved facade of an arrow-riddled St. Sebastián flanked by two towers. The interior is strikingly restful considering the bustling area. Note the sculptures The Harmony of Sound, by Maximilian Peizmann, to the right of the entrance, and By the Cross to the Light, by Eduardo Chillida, in the baptistery.
You can visit this uninhabited island that rises from the center of La Concha's bay and shields it from high swells. Ferries (around €8 round-trip) run from the mainland every 30 minutes and are packed on summer weekends. Reaching the island from the beach is a fun challenge for experienced swimmers. There's a small bar at the ferry dock and lifeguard service at a beach that reveals itself only at low tide. Bring sturdy sandals as the coastline is rocky. Within the lighthouse is a 15-ton bronze fountain called Hondalea ("Sea Floor"), by Basque sculptor Cristina Iglesias; unveiled in 2021 and open only on select dates (see website), its whooshing flows are meant to mimic the tides.
Designed by the world-renowned Spanish architect Rafael Moneo and located at the mouth of the Urumea River, the Kursaal is a multipurpose performance venue that's home to the Basque Country's symphony orchestra. Its translucent cubelike buildings aim to bridge the natural and artificial worlds and to create a visual stepping-stone between Monte Urgull and Monte Ulia. The market-driven ground-floor restaurant, Muka ( see separate entry), is exceptional.
In a 16th-century monastery behind the parte vieja, to the right (northeast) of the church of Santa María, the former chapel, now a lecture hall, was painted by José María Sert (1876–1945). Creator of notable works in Barcelona's city hall, London's Tate Gallery, and New York's Waldorf-Astoria hotel, Sert's characteristic tones of gray, gold, violet, and earthy russet enhance the sculptural power of his work here, which portrays events from Basque history. The museum displays Basque ethnographic items, such as prehistoric stelae once used as grave markers, and paintings by Zuloaga, Ribera, and El Greco.
Occupying a century-old tobacco factory, this modern cultural center hosts a variety of performances, exhibitions, and screenings (check the website for upcoming events). The roof deck affords pleasing views of the river and skyline.
Across the Urumea River from La Concha lies this sprawling, less touristy beach. Exposed to the open Atlantic, the beach boasts waves that are often big enough to surf—and occasionally too dangerous for kids and inexperienced swimmers. Amenities: lifeguards; water sports. Best for: surfing.
