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Eating out is an intrinsic part of the Andalusian lifestyle. Whether it’s sharing some tapas with friends over a prelunch drink or a three-course à la carte meal, many Andalusians eat out at some point during the day. Unsurprisingly, there are literally thousands of bars and restaurants throughout the region catering to all budgets and tastes.
At lunchtime, check out the daily menus (menús del día) offered by many restaurants, usually three courses and excellent value (expect to pay €8–€15, depending on the type of restaurant and location). Roadside restaurants, known as ventas, usually provide good food in generous portions and at reasonable prices. Be aware that many restaurants add a service charge (cubierto), which can be as much as €3 per person, and some restaurant prices don’t include value-added tax (impuesto sobre el valor añadido/I.V.A.) at 10%.
Andalusians tend to eat later than their fellow Spaniards—lunch is 2–4 pm, and dinner starts at 9 pm (10 pm in the summer). In cities, many restaurants are closed Sunday night (fish restaurants tend to close on Monday) and in inland towns and cities, some close for all of August.
Under the gilt-edged ceiling at Seville's most celebrated pastry outlet (founded in 1885), you can enjoy the flanlike tocino de cielo, or "heavenly bacon." For breakfast, enjoy a traditional feed of toasted bread with tomato and a strong coffee, served at a standing bar. Prices are reasonable despite its popularity.
Sweet and savory treats come into their own at this family-owned business in the city center. Top of the specialty list are piononos (sponge bites filled with caramel and custard) and pastela (Moroccan chicken pie). Eat in with a drink at the bar or in the small cafeteria space, or take out to feast on in one of the nearby squares.
If you’re a vegan, vegetarian, or flexitarian and finding the meat and fish scene in Seville a bit heavy, head for this bar inside the Mercado del Arenal. It started life as Spain’s first vegan bakery in 2009, and since then the menu has grown to encompass breakfast and brunch, plus a long list of 100%-animal-free options to make into burgers, nachos, or wraps. There’s also an excellent value menu del día (€10) at lunchtime, and a choice of pastries and cakes.
